Jump to content


Mountain Region
  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won


About barspen

  • Rank
    Team Shelby New Member

Profile Information

  • Region
  1. I put them on my 2011 (M-5230-MSVTLA) a few years ago. Exhaust note/tone was very low, to the point where it was hard to hear on start-up. Sounded good @ WOT. Looked great, but horrible drone. Ended up sending them back.
  2. I've run AutoZone ceramics on a short track as a beginner and they fade very quickly. Great for low dust and no noise (street driving), but not good under HPDE conditions when temps get too hot. Carbotech, Hawk, Porterfield and PFC are all well known manufactures of high performance pads. If you are a beginner with HDPE, you may be able to get away with a hybrid pad (Hawk Street/Race, HP+ or HPS). But typically, you will be trading dust\noise for better stopping power, especially under high temps. Once you get conformable driving at higher speeds and pushing the car, you will want to a dedicated pad for HPDE and swap it out prior to the track day. I run Carbotech XP10 up front on track days and love them. They take all the abuse I can throw at them and never fade...but they dust like crazy and squeal when cold, so I don't run them on the street.
  3. AutoZone does have the rear piston tool for rent, but if you do a bunch of jobs, it might be easier to drop $35 and have it in the garage. As for a upgrading the rear caliper...good luck! It is a common eyesore for most of us. Unfortunately, there is no good "in-between" solution (trust me, they would be making $$ if one existed). You either have to go "Big" on all for corners, or deal with a crappy looking rears. You cant just throw a Brembo caliper on as the system in the rear is setup differently and you also have to deal with the E-Brake. If you just installed big brakes on the rear only, you dramatically change the bias and it would probably be a nightmare to stop safely. If you upgrade all for corners to a Willwood or BAER kit, that will set you back many thousands of dollars. But they do look good
  4. Warped rotors are more urban legend than fact, especially on a street driven car - Here's a good read on the subject - http://stoptech.com/technical-support/technical-white-papers/-warped-brake-disc-and-other-myths Pad deposits can cause the pulsating feeling and this would generally get worse over time. I still think that's odd for a street driven car with 45K and you are not swapping pads/compounds, but suppose it is possible. I'd start by looking at the caliper and pads. If brake hardware gets seized up from dirt, rust, etc, it can press on the pads unevenly, with different force and cause weird issue. If you are DIYer, you can take the pads out, inspect them and clean all the parts thoroughly with brake cleaner. Look for things like uneven pad wear, glazing, broken\rusted HW. Then replace and grease the rear pins and dust boots. I also replace the front pins and anti-rattle plate every couple years for piece of mind.
  5. Yep, squeeze, with both hand if possible, on the bottom hose. If that doesn't do it, you can disconnect the lower hose, use a funnel to add new fluid into the top tank and let gravity push out the bubble. The second option will lose some fluid, but if its stubborn, might do the trick.
  6. Pyrotect full face here. Fits great, fair price.
  7. Couple different areas to check for loose connections: - Strut and shock tower nuts - Strut mounts are secure - Springs are sitting securely in the mounts - Sway bars linkage (D-Blocks) - Sway bar end-links - Panhard bar Since you didn't specify front or back (sometimes it can be hard to tell since noise travel), these are pretty common area to check for loose connections. Sometimes it can help to have someone walk next to the car as you go over a bump to isolate the location better. Good luck!
  8. Doesn't make sense. TC controls the rear brakes and throttle response...nothing to do with the clutch. I just had an RXT installed and the dealership didn't make any mention of turning off TC.
  9. You do not NEED a bumpsteer kit, but it will help get the car's geometry lined up correctly on the front end. This would help with tire wear and controlling the car when hitting bumps in the road. With all the suspension mods you are doing, I would recommend them...it cant hurt. As far as 'joints' (I think you mean 'Jounce')...These help with proper travel distance with new springs on the front a rear. Again, not required, but will likely make your ride better.
  10. Welcome! Lots of good threads here on suspension upgrade. How much you want\need to spend will be based on your application...Street only, drag, road course, mountain twisties, etc. Many of us upgrade the lower control arms to keep the wheel hop to a minimum. Lowering springs give the car a great look a feel and I'd recommend those to anyone with a GT500. A Panhard bar and brace are also very popular to keep the rear end squared up over the tires, especially after lowering. If you plan to do HPDE\Road Course work: Sway bars, adjustable stock\struts, castor\camber plates and upper control arm are bumpsteer kit are some of the items to consider. These are typically very 'tunable' to get the desired feel, but sometime have trade-off like a harsher or noisy ride. Not as familiar with drag racing setups.
  11. I ran 'full' soft' for about 3 months on the street and now I have them at 75% (1 full turn). My first track day will be in Mid-Dec and will start at 50% to see how they feel. They are very easy to adjust. There is a knob that goes over the top of the stock\strut and you turn it clockwise or counterclockwise to soften or tighten. Take about 2 minutes to adjust all four corners and can be done anytime.
  12. I run Koni Sports also. Nice setup that you can dial-in to your liking as far as stiffness goes. Koni also offers a lifetime warrantee on the components, so keep your receipts...I had to replace two STR.T struts on my last setup. I installed myself in on jack stands. Take about 2-3 hours, but you do need a spring compressor (rent from AutoZone or buy from Amazon) and some socket and wrenches.
  13. Hi Suzanne Congrats on your first HPDE day! Just warning you, it is addictive and can be expensive. Just wait until you're thinking "If I did this, I could shave of .2 secs on my lap time". I've done a lot of thinking about safety mods and I'm 'all in'. Getting Watsons roll bar, rear seat bracket for the belts, 6-point harness and HANS. I will lose the back seat with this setup, but I can go back to stock with a few extra hours of work. At the end of the day, If I want to continue my hobby of driving my car fast on a track, I owe it to my wife, kids and parents to do it as safely as possible. Some of my buddies will think it's overkill. But it only takes one mechanical incident, an overly aggressive driver or a minor misjudgment to change your life. Hedging my bets and doing it the right way :-) Enjoy carving turns in your GT350!
  14. Customer support is a big deal when installing aftermarket parts and factors into everything I buy. I'm happy to pay a little extra when I know there is great support backing the product. You will get great service from VMP...It's just reassuring knowing they are there if you need them. They have a great YouTube video on the HE install. The job is a little intimidating at first, but it's actually pretty simple if you take your time and keep track of the zillion little bolts, screws, nuts and clips you need to remove :-) Good luck!
  15. I changed mine to poly because it dry-rotted and made extra noise. The extra heat in AZ and a few track days a year took it's toll on the stocker. Install is messy but not that hard. I used a hole saw to drill out the stock rubber bushing and a wire brush to clean it up the sleeve. No need to press the sleeve out...just makes that job more difficult. You do need a big c-clamp to press the pushing together in the housing. The poly bushing helped the back feel more squared up and less 'squishy'. And for me, less noise rotted out rubber stocker. Well worth a few extra bucks. Call the folks at BMR and they can give you some advice on changing it out. If you are going the upgrade the UCA, might as well get'er done. BTW, I would not use a rod/spherical end on the axle bushing...Just my 2 cents.
  • Create New...