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About hunters1

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    Team Shelby New Member

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  • Region
    South Atlantic
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  1. you can have the McLeod rebuilt, by McLeod for about $500
  2. Anyone else check out these wheels? Project 6GR Satin Black, Satan Graphite. They are in Mustang sizes (offsets) that say they will clear Brembo brake packages. 19 and 20 inch staggered or square setups, at 23-25lbs. Not super light but at a very reasonable price. The offsets are the best part requiring no guess work.
  3. Check out article at StangTV about GT350 and Rs sitting out in the elements since Aug. Awaiting factory stripes to be added? Really. Kind of taints any desire to place an order for a new car that has been treated this way, let alone the ADMs dealers are asking
  4. Just replaced my alternator last week. Had all same symptoms. Went with PA performance 200 AMP alternator to assist with dual fan HE and BAP. If you do your own replacement it is easier with two people. Lower two brackets for sway bar and lower/swing it clear, and remove two small brackets to power steering line to allow line to move ever so slightly. You have to wiggle it around a little(alt) but, it will come out from bottom of car.
  5. Look at carbonite coating your pulley
  6. Looks like Roush has an interesting product in development. Like many other mustang parts I wonder if this product will work with all other years? Seems like it could. Any thoughts?
  7. any issues with Shelby brake cooling kit, clearance wise/w stock 18 rims?
  8. I just finished install of front/ back sway bars. They are Eibach, got them from AM $439 shipped. Easy install. Already had Fays2, and NVH is zero. The ride is compliant but certainly not stock. Tracks great.
  9. Installed these pads a few weeks ago. They are great. If you frequent autotrackdaily site there is an article about these pads. Yes they will chirp on occasion at low in town stops, and will produce a fair amount of dust. All that aside they perform better than anticipated. When cold they still provide consistant braking and when warmed up they maintain a steady bite with no fade.
  10. I have yellow and now UPR bracket. Had just the slightest gap that would enable battery to slide in hard turns or braking. I then used some thin soft rubber padding (the type used in kitchen drawers) cut to size under battery and upper bracket. Battery does not move period and am no longer worried about terminals making contact on hood.
  11. Good thread. Always learn a lot here. There is more reading elsewhere to be had. Autotrackdaily.com is another great source for info on brakes. Follow the threads for additional info. What I found out over the past three years is, there is little compromise available when it comes to brakes and application. I read a lot of forums and have become a believer that if you want to race it behooves to have race grade brakes. All LuLu said is true to get to a strong street setup, all Albino said is track oriented and proven. You can simply add true track pads to the setup LuLu mentioned and track the car at a moderate level and be safe, for short runs. One area that rarely gets a mention is what are the other upgrades that are done to the car, ie suspension?
  12. +1 Michelins but, would be expensive drag tire.
  13. Yes, finished two weeks ago. Had a friend come over and we were plowing right along till we got to the KB BAP. Lets just say instructions were not so good. Specifically there was no additional vacuum line provided nor three way T fitting necessary to tie into vacuum at fuel regulator/sensor (pass side fuel rail) We were doing this on a Sunday, not the best day for last minute stuff. But, called another member for guidance, he had not done a BAP yet. Ended up calling Van@Revan and he answered. I was pleasantly surprised as we had very little to do, too get the car up and running. Van imparted the fix in minutes and we had the car purring. Have put maybe 100 miles on car since and I am very pleased. No codes, idle is smooth, and pulls like a mule. The tune is a J Lund on 93 octane. Kudos Tob, and Van on this one
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