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About corepuncher

  • Rank
    Team Shelby New Member

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  • Region
    Southern Plains
  • Interests
    Meteorologist, like chasing and playing drums. Oh...and GT500's!
  1. Damn I'm jealous! My MPG sucks ass. I checked manually...13.7 average MPG, that includes partial highway and city. Last I checked highway, it was about 70-75 mph, 6th gear. I was struggling to maintain 18 mpg. That's down from 23 before. Wait a second, do you have a TVS, or just a new pulley and tune on your stock supercharger? I have a TVS, which Jon Lund said could have more parasitic loss.
  2. I basically choose to drive on my original tires as-is during the winter, but certainly not on any snow or ice. I drive very carefully and slow, knowing traction is minimal. My only concern is damaging the tires. WIll they become damaged in cold weather if I drive very slowly and carefully? No fast corners, no fast acceleration. Last winter is seemed to work out fine.
  3. Thanks Snoopy, good to know. Thankfully my car is garaged so it doesn't get too cold, but I'm going to be extra careful for sure.
  4. I live in OK too. I just keep them on and drive carefully. Too much trouble removing and adding tires. Bad things tend to happen over-handling 20" rims and low profile tires. If I was rich I would get a new set of rim/tires for winter.
  5. Let me guess, when you have it sitting in neutral and quickly put it in reverse, it grinds? I guess things are "spinning" in neutral. Shove it up to 3rd then go into reverse, no grind.
  6. Wow so Ford has two documents that disagree by 0.01. I'm going to sell my car over this. Here is the chart. Looks like my HP is 20-30 more than the stock 2013's...torque right there or maybe 5 lower.
  7. Great thanks! I noticed the 2012 mustang 1st gear is wrong...it should be 2.97 FYI. 2011: http://media.ford.com/images/10031/2011_GT500_Specs.pdf 2012: http://media.ford.com/images/10031/2012_GT500_Specs.pdf 2013: http://media.ford.com/images/10031/2013_GT500_Specs.pdf
  8. That is awesome! Do you have a spreadsheet or calculator for that? I still have 20"s but my tire is 295/35R20, only about 3 or 4 millimeters diff on height. They are the very largest tires I can put on with my rims without fender rubbing on dips. Wow...so I'll be pushing 100 mph at the top of 2nd :-) Sweet! Perhaps a tad more slipping of the clutch to get going in 1st, but I'm going to immensely enjoy not having to shift out of 1st 2 seconds after I take off, and hopefully my tires will not spin like they are on ice. When you think about it, why not take out the human/clutch variable. Calculate the perfect gear so that all you have to do is floor it (depends on particular set of tires of course).
  9. Yeah, I'm gonna find someone to do it. First random quote local place: 6 hr job = $520 ouch. Ford: 5-6 hr job: 500-600 ouch. Pinnacle Performance in Tulsa: 3-4 hour job $250.00. Ding ding ding! I'll also have to take advantage of the super duper laser guided balancer :-)
  10. Thanks for your replies. I have ordered the 3.15 gears, along with a new girdle (hope it does not make me look fat) Since my 1st gear is a 2.97, it really raps up fast. I decided to use the 2013 as a baseline since it has the same TVS as mine. 2013 has 2.66 1st gear. One thing I did not take into account, the 2013 might have more torque than mine, since it's a 5.8 liter. Spec sheet says 631...my dyno said 602. At first I was thinking that is at the crank but actually I think torque numbers do NOT get reduced like HP does (from engine to wheels)? Can someone verify this? If that is the case, I need to re-factor for the 2013 comparison. So before, I got an equivalent 2.96 rear end. But multiplying by 631/602 = 3.10. So it appears the 3.15 I got is just right...a tiny bit shorter which is good. Again, this is a daily driving car, so I'll never have slicks on it. And if I did, I'd have to get a new driveshaft anyway. Now, I just need to find a place to install it. I would try myself but my friend said he had trouble with noise and such. Is there some tutorial that is very precise, would I need any special tools to get aligned properly, or do they just snap into place?
  11. Thanks. I contacted him, he said the tune looks good. However, he also said my MPG estimate on my car could be way off. So, I just filled up my tank and I'll check my mileage manually. hope it's off...or else I won't know what to think.
  12. http://www.lethalperformance.com/jhr-2005-2013-mustang-high-volume-clutch-line-upgrade.html Free shipping, 10% off = 54.00. I think it's worth a try < shrug >
  13. I was thinking of ordering the 60 dollar line. Hey, Black Friday, only 54!
  14. I have 3.73's, and they are NOT right for my car. I am looking to go MUCH lower. I have a 2011 GT500 SVT. When it was bone stock, the gears were PERFECT! It would barely scratch the tires in 1st and going into 2nd. However, now I have a TVS supercharger, and about 170 more hp and torque than stock. Not balanced any longer. In fact, I have to get to 3rd gear before I can safely go WOT in the power band. Not only is wheel spin a problem, but just 1st gear in general, the engine is always racing and it seems I have to shift into second 2 seconds after I leave my driveway. Therefore, I"m going to pick a rear end ratio that reduces wheel spin and increases gas mileage for daily driving. My choices are 3.55, 3.31, 3.27, 3.15, 3.08. Which one is best? I did some calculations. First, compare to the 2013 which already comes with a TVS. Ford does a good job optimizing, so lets trust them: Factor in a different 1st gear: Rear ratio X 1st gear = 8.8 for 2013. My current setup = 11.08 for my 2011. A 20.5% difference in torque. So what rear end ratio would I need to mimik the 2013 (get an 8.8?): 8.805/11.078 * 3.73 = 2.96. Second, since I liked the way it behaved stock...lets compare the torque ratios and reduce 3.73 by that amount (no need to multiply by 1st gear ratio...they are the same): Stock Torque: 510 My Dyno: 602 510/602 X 3.73 = 3.16. Ahh...that would suggest 3.15 rear end. One last benchmark...I found an equation to estimate when tires will break loose at a given torque: Using a typical 0.7 friction coefficient, I get 464 ft/lbs. Sticky tires with a 0.8 would yield 530 ft/lbs. 464/602 * 3.73 = 2.87 530/602 * 3.73 = 3.28 So using three different benchmarks: Range: 2.87 to 3.28 Average of all 4: 3.07 I trust the 2 - real world measurements better than uncertain friction coefficient, so average of those two: 3.06 Now, the 3.08 would seem the winner using the averages. HOWEVER...this means if I ever get stickier tires, I have left acceleration on the table. Therefore, I think the optimum choice would be the 3.15. It also happens to be same ratio of when my car was stock, and I LOVED how it accerated...only slight spin. (3.73 - 3.15)/3.73 = 15.5 % decrease in overall RPM's across the spectrum. This should result in that same increase in gas mileage...as RPM's are basically proportional to gas usage (ignoring external factors). That means a nice 2 mpg gain city, 3 mpg gain highway. One last thing I have to consider...6th gear. All the other gears' shift points are effectively moved up...but the buck stops with 6th. At 75 mph I currently am at about 1725 RPM. If I go with 3.15's, it will drop to 1457. That should still be fine for interstate...super OD! I think this all makes sense, please let me know if you find an error, thanks. Now...time for shopping! Black Friday in effect.
  15. I tried AMSOIL and an MGW shifter. Here are my thoughts after driving the car for 1.5 years. Summary: I grind a lot less than I did when I first got the car. 1) Minimal if any change using the AMSOIL. 2) MGW shifter is very nice, although I IMMEDIATELY noticed an increase in noise...I might try to add more sound mat and padding sometime. But if you put it together like the instructions say, you will hear a lot of noise especially 1 and 2nd. Basically, I have learned how to drive the car with time. The key is a very small pause. I have gotten so I don't even have to think about the pause anymore...here's how. The MGW shifter is very stiff and precise....more so than the stock one which is cushy by comparison. This means that shifter motions are exact every time and you can use that to your advantage. When shifting from 1st to 2nd, I simultaneously hit the clutch to the floor and pull the shifter to the LEFT. This leftward movement is JUST ENOUGH DELAY so that when you pull it back into 2nd, it does not grind. Works almost every time. Just think "L" shape shift, or a Knight in Chess. Now it has become second nature. Now for drag racing, maybe it's a different story...but I don't do that.
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