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About BlueEyedSnake

  • Rank
    Team Shelby New Member
  • Birthday 03/28/1984

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  • Region
    Pacific Northwest
  • Interests
    Spending all of my money on mods.....

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  1. If anyone needs help with this just let me know. This will work in a base 2012 gt. There is no cutting of any wires. All you do is tie in to two wires. Completely non evasive.
  2. The following directions are for people retrofitting an LCD Gauge Cluster into a 2011/2012 GT500. Attempt this at your own risk, I will not be held responsible for bricked modules or things that may go wrong. If you are unsure, ask a question. Many people have performed this installation with very little instructions. I wrote this just to help people out and make this easier. Like most I have a lot of money invested in my car in parts and accessories so buying a 2014 GT500 because it has a better cluster with Track Apps and Launch Control, seemed a little expensive. I cannot take responsibility for this modification coming together. I stumbled upon this a few months ago on the mustang source. 2011-2012 BOSS's and GT's can also upgrade their clusters to LCD cluster using the same procedures. I must say that it is slightly more difficult in automatics. Link to a video of the cluster installed and working perfectly: http://youtu.be/KILfJUUn6fs If you want to buy the parts minus the VCM II tool, I can do the install for you which would include installing the ABS Module, Flashing your PCM to a 2014, flashing your new ABS module, installing your steering wheel switch, running the wires required for your new switch to work, PATS to your keys and uploaded your new tune into your PCM. PM me for details if interested, I am located in central California. You will need to reprogram you PCM to 2014 firmware. You will need to do some wiring in order to get the left steering wheel switch to work since you will no longer use the buttons located under your headlight switch (Info, Setup, and Reset). Before you do anything, I highly suggest you read through this write up one time before you start. Parts you will need: • Your new cluster (BOSS, GT Premium, or Shelby GT500) Mileage will be set for you if bought it new from a dealership. I use Tousley for all my parts ($ depends on new or used). • Left Steering Wheel Switch – Part Number - SW 6911 ($25) • 2013 ABS Module - Part Number - ER33 2C405 AA ($194) • VCM II (If you want to do PATS and PMI the module on your car yourself. The unit cost $110 shipped, PATS at a dealer cost $90 alone + the reprogramming of your module makes buying one a no brainer. I suggest you buy it; it’s a great tool to have. You can do a lot with it) www.aliexpress.com search VCM II, pops right up. ***** You will need a tune update or new tune for your car. Once you flash your PCM, it will think that your car is a 5.8L V8 and you'll need a tune so it can run right***** It is IMPORTANT to know that you must have the mileage set on your new cluster before you conduct the install and PATS (is the link between your cluster and your key which allows you to start your car). The reset will erase your PATS. To reset the mileage call the following place, they charge $85 for the service: United Radio - Automotive Division 5717 Enterprise parkway E Syracuse New York 13057 1-800-448-0944 Ask for Bob and tell them what you want (there are a couple of Bobs) First, let’s make sure you have everything you need in order to be successful and avoid any trips to the hardware store. You’ll need a an 8mm socket, 10mm socket, T15 hex socket, ratchet, socket extension, flat head screwdriver, wire splitters (the kind that allows you to expose the cable by pulling the shielding apart while still plugged in), wire strippers (you can also use the wire strippers for this), 6 feet of 20 gauge wire, extra pins from an old wire harness (you may need to go to a junk yard to source these, I did), and liquid electric tape to put over the taps. First well perform the installation of the New Cluster. Lower the steering wheel all the way down. Then remove the dash around the cluster by pulling up on the bottom where the rubber piece is above the steering column. Then pull out and the dash comes off exposing the cluster. The cluster is held in by 2 8mm bolts, one on each corner on top. Pull on the cluster; it will not give initially because there are two clips that hold it up against the dash. The harness is located on the right side as your looking at it in the back. The release for the connector (C220) is on the bottom. Then just tilt the cluster forward and pull it out. Next remove the black plastic cover above the steering column (just pull up and forward as it hooks in the back). The bottom piece has 2 T15 screws. This piece isn’t removed, it’s just lowered (this is where connector C2274A is located, also known as the dashboard side of the clock spring). Now it’s time for some splicing. On connector C220 (gauge cluster connector) you want to find the wire coming out of Pin #6, it is a Green wire with a Purple stripe (this is the message signal wire). Tap into this wire by using the cable splitters. Attach a piece of 20 gauge wire 22 inches long. Put liquid electric tape where you made the tap to prevent grounding out the wire. Attach a pin to the other end and run that wire to the clockspring in the steering wheel, insert it into slot number 3 (slot is empty and the connectors are all numbered on the corners) on connector C2274A which is located under the steering wheel. Before you can plug your new pin in, you must unplug the connector and remove the red plastic cover on the front of it that helps secure the pins in place on the connector. Leave it off until you have plugged in both taps from the back of the cluster. Now the message return wire needs to be done. Now go back to the connector that connects to the gauge cluster C220. Find the wire coming from Pin #4, it is a White wire with Brown stripe, tap into it. Just like you did the other one with a 22 inch long piece of wire and attach another pin to the other end. Run that wire from the tap to the connector on the clockspring C2274A on the underside of the steering column, plug it into slot #11 (this slot is empty). You are now halfway done with the cluster install at this point and can put your new cluster in and secure it with the 2 8mm bolts. Make sure you are careful not to damage or disconnect the 2 taps (check picture). Reinstall the dash plastic on top of the cluster. Now, make sure the red plastic cap is on the clockspring connector C2274A that you installed the two taps into and reinstall it. Now reinstall the black plastic that goes under the steering column with the two T15 screws. Now reattach the black plastic that goes on top of the steering column. Now it is time to remove the airbag, install the modified switch, and make two new connections. Sounds harder than it is, takes no time at all. People might say disconnect the negative battery terminal before you do this, but I didn’t. Do what makes you feel more comfortable. On either side of the steering wheel there is a plug (reference picture) and behind it is a 10mm bolt. Remove both bolts and pull off the airbag. Leave it connected and place it on top of the steering wheel (everything in this write up will make more sense once you are doing it). The connector on the clockspring is C2274B and you are going to place two new pins in here that you will run to the new left side steering wheel switch with the OK button (reference picture). Remove the old steering wheel switch by disconnecting it and sliding it out. Insert your new switch, make sure it goes in properly. Now take two 9 inch pieces of 20 gauge wire, strip off both ends and attach new pins (it should be noted that the pins in clockspring connector C2274B and the pins in the steering wheel switch connector C2998 are different, so make sure you have then before you start. They are shorter). On the steering wheel switch connector C2998, move pin #2 to position #1 (this is for cruise control). On the steering wheel side of the clockspring, on connector C2274B, you will insert a pin into slot #6 (it will be empty). The other end of this wire will be inserted into the #2 slot of the steering wheel switch connector C2998. Now insert the other wire that you pinned into slot #12 (will be empty) on connector C2274B of the clockspring. Run that wire to the steering wheel switch connector C2998 and insert it into slot #3 (will be empty). Message center button should now work. Disconnect the message center buttons on the headlight switch module. Just disconnect it from the back. It will no longer be used. You may want to get the 2013 headlight switch module which blanks out the message center buttons. Insert the airbag back in and make sure not to damage the two wires you ran. Insert the two 10mm bolt and covers on either said of the steering column. Your cluster will now work and there will be no DTC codes, you can manipulate the LCD screen. You will not have functional Track Apps unless you install a 2013 ABS Module and PMI it with a VCM II (If you purchased it) Without installing the 2013 ABS module or flashing your PCM; the only value that your gauges will read in the LCD is Volts and boost. Once you have installed the ABS module and flashed your PCM, all gauges appropriate to the cluster you have installed (GT500, BOSS or GT Premium) will work. If you haven’t performed PATS yet, then your car isn’t going to start and this is the time to do it. Since you are at this point of the install I awesome you bought a VCM II and are going to do the PATS yourself. PATS will take you about 30 minutes to perform. You will need two keys to perform PATS successfully. Once you have successfully installed IDS and the patch that comes with your VCM II. (The VCM II that you buy will only work with the version of IDS that it came with, DO NOT UPGRADE IDS) Connect the VCM II to your computer (via the USB) and start IDS. Connect the VCM II to the car via the OBD II port. In the IDS menu Go to Vehicles then All Other. IDS will ask you to confirm your vehicle and VIN number. Click on the check mark (Consider this the enter button on IDS). Once you confirm you will have the main menu at your disposal. Now go to Body, then Security, then PATS Function. It will ask you if you have two keys check enter. Then it will ask tell you that it will take 10 minutes to gain access to PATS, check enter and wait 10 minutes. Once you have access, you need to erase all keys associated with the cluster. During the process you will have to insert one key and turn it to the on position for 6 second and then do the same with the other key. Once done you will be kicked out of PATS and have to re access it again (this means waiting 10 minutes again gain access). Once you have gained access click on Reset Parameters. Click enter on whatever menus come up and once done it will return you to the security access page. At this point you are done and should be able to start your vehicle. Now you are done, but if you want to have working Track Apps you will need to install the 2013 ABS Module in order to get them to work. The Module is located under the air box. Remove the air box to access the module. Disconnect the harness on the module. There are 4 screws that are T15 holding the module to the actual abs. These screws strip very easily so be careful when removing them. In fact I replaced mine with Hex Cap screws that were 7mm for ease of removal in the future, just in case. Your module will come with 4 new T15 screws if you bought it new from a dealer because they know that these screws are junk (I highly advice against buying a used module as it may be bad, your risk). Remove the 4 screws and pull off the old module. Install the new module and screw in the 4 screws to secure it. Reinstall the wire harness to the abs module and reinstall the air box. Now the fun part, you have to PMI (flash) your PCM to 2014. You need to connect your VCM II to your laptop then your car. I will assume you have installed all the software that came with your VCM (IDS and extras...). While using IDS, you have to leave your ignition on the whole time except when prompted by IDS when performing programming. FYI, you need to be connected to the internet the whole time. Once IDS reads your PCM it will ask you whether you want to continue your old session if you have used your VCM II on your car before. Say no, and click on delete old session. When it reads your PCM it will show you your vehicle information such as 5.4L, 50 State, etc... At the bottom of the screen it will ask you if it is correct, click on NO. The next screen will tell you that the wrong calibrations were loaded. On the bottom right of the screen is a Green Check Mark (this is the enter key on IDS), click on it. The next screen will tell you that you need a PCM code and a few other things. Click next and on the PCM code line type in DR3A - AJD (PCM code for 2014), then click next. It will attempt to read your PCM again, then it will show you the same screen it showed you earlier about your vehicles information, except this time it will say 5.8L. Click on YES at the bottom of the screen. the next screen will tell you that your PCM is black and needs to be reprogrammed. Follow the screen prompts and finish the process. It will ask you to verify your VIN and it click on YES. IDS will tell you that it needs to connect to the network to download you PCM's calibration. Click enter (check mark), and IDS will ask you to turn your ignition on and off at random. Just do as it say and at no point should you ever disconnect your VCM or close IDS. You'll see a few blue progress bars and it will take about 6 minutes to flash the PCM once it starts. When it's done it will tell you that it's complete and tell you that your PCM has been flashed to PCM Code: DR3A-12A650-AJD. Congratulations, you have successfully flashed your PCM to 2014. Now its time to PMI your newly installed ABS module. So now you need to exit IDS and restart it. Once IDS read your PCM it will ask you if you want to continue a previous session, click NO delete sessions. The highlight None Of the Above and click next. The next screen will show your vehicle information and it should say 5.8L. Check enter and on the next screen it will show you your VIN and vehicle mileage. In this screen you will erase your VIN and replace it with that of a 2014 GT500 (plenty of them on eBay and Autotrader). If you have navigation, pick one with navigation if not then don't. Type in the VIN you found and click next and you'll go to the main screen of IDS. Highlight Program Module and click next. Then click on Program Module Installation and highlight ABS and click enter. The next screen will show you your Vin and ask if it is correct. Say no and manual enter the same 2014 VIN you did at the start of this session and click next. It will then ask you i you have the old module say no and click next. Then it will download the new calibration file from the internet and program the ABS module. Once it's done it will tell you that the PCM VIN does not match the ABS module. Don't worry about it, it doesn't matter. At this point your ABS light should not be flashing any longer within your cluster, just the traction control light should be on. Your almost done, hang in there. Now all you have to do is Calibrate your Yaw sensor to get raid of the traction control light. Now in the Program Module menu, go to Personality and highlight IVD and click next. Follow the prompts on the screen and once your done go to the main screen and click on self test. Highlight all CMDTC's and click next. This will check all your modules for DTC codes and show you the results. What ever it comes back with don't even look at it. Just highlight the top where it says all CMDTC and then click on the icon on the right with a picture of an eraser. It will prompt you, say yes and wait for the results. Once it's done there should be no errors and you are done. You are no done with the install and have a fully functional 2014 GT500 cluster with Tack Apps, Gauges and Launch Control. At this point you need to load your new tune into you car before you drive it. It will turn over, but the idle is going to be rough without a tune. Once you have the tune loaded, I suggest you catalog your car at ideal for 5 minutes and then do a revving log as well. Then send them to your tuner for review so he can update your tune. The you'll have to do a cruising log and WOT logs as well to dial in your car. If you have any questions or hick ups, feel free to PM me with questions.
  3. I have an LFP installed in my 2011 along with a 3 x capacity tank and it stays at a solid 118*F while doing a WOT pulls on the highway at 140 MPH. Even at 70 MPH on the highway the intake temperature is the same. Cruising around in town, I logged the temps at 126*F. I do have the 2013 upper and lower grills installed on my car. Of course where you live and how hot it gets matters lot. You can install an intercooler in an hour start to finish, so if you do the LFP and don't like it, just sell it and buy the C and R one. Someone is selling a new C and R intercooler on the other very popular SVT forum. You can always jump on that.
  4. I've had a VMP tune and a Lund tune. Both with 2.6 pulley, VMP 67mm TB, resonator delete and airaid air filter. I can tell you hands down that my car drove better and felt stronger with the Lund tune. Talk to Van from Revan Racing. He'll hook you up with Lund. I just installed a ported TVS with all the supporting goodies ($8,000 worth). I'm currently doing a remote tune with Lund and his customer service is awesome and you can tell he knows what he is doing. I send him datalogs and he reply's back with request that he wants me to log. Good luck with your tune.
  5. I'm down +1 if I get my gauge cluster conversion done. Who ever thought it was such a pain in the ass to retro fit a 2014 GT500 instrument gauge cluster into a 2011 GT500. But a 220 MPH speedo with track apps and gauges is worth it.
  6. I just did mine to. I love the look and it does feel so much better. Just as stated before, the rubber on the stock shifter really did suck when compared to the new hurst stick. The car shifts so much better. Thank you for sharing because without this post I would have spent a lot of money in a new shifter and install. Only took 15 minutes in install and I recommend everyone to do this.
  7. You might want to try a 265/35/19 on the front. It will fit. I have a 275/35/19 on the front. There is a gap there and I will be lowering my car next week. I'll post pic's once it's done.
  8. I would do 19's in the front and 20's in the back. But I assume you want to get 4 19's so you can rotate your tires and get more miles out of them. I currently have super sports on my GT500. I have 275/35/19 in the front and 295/35/20 on the back. Before this set I had the stock Goodyears and they were hot garbage. These SS blow those tires right out of the water. Traction is much improved and wheel hop is all but gone. For reference I do have Whiteline's LCA's with relocation brackets installed. But I had them also while I had the Goodyears on so it doesn't change anything. The car hooks up and go's. I thought I wanted to get the NT05's, but there is no way that you get the same mileage out of those as you would from the Super Sports. Seeing how this is your daily driver, I would recommend the SS's as I also daily drive my GT500.
  9. I just signed up and live in the NE FL. I will be trailering my car there.
  10. I'm already signed up. Can't wait, should be a lot of fun.
  11. I want to buy an authentic Carroll Shelby autographed passenger air bag cover for my 2011 GT500. Let me know if you have one or have a lead on one, thanks.
  12. Here's my dumb question, but first a little intro since this is my first post. I just bought my first Ford vehicle ever (GT500) this past weekend. I got a 2011 performance white with Grabber blue strips non svtpp. At least I got the stock shaker 1000 and grabber blue seat inserts which I like. I got her used with 3,000 on the clock. I'm a big GM fan, but I must say I wish I bought this car a lot sooner, it's awesome. I love everything about it. I'm glad I didn't buy the Boss 302 instead. Anyways I look forward to gaining a lot of knowledge from everyone on this forum. Ok, on to the dumb question. When I get after it on the highway and I mean really get after it. I can smell what I can only described as an engine smell coming into the car through the vent. It doesn't last, but 2 or 3 minutes if that and then it goes away. It does not smell like buring oil either. Other than that I never have an odor problem with the car. Was just wondering if that was normal do to the fact that I hope there's nothing wrong with my new toy. Thanks. P.S. I just discovered to Sport Button, this car keeps on getting better and better.
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