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Boidster

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About Boidster

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    Northern Plains
  1. Thanks for the info Bill. My car has settled in at 16.8 MPG around town (about 50/50 street vs. freeway; very little stop-and-go traffic, and only the occasional max-performance onramp). I figured I'd get the VMP 3-tune pack and have them put together one "plain" tune and two pulley tunes (91 and 93). I'll drive the plain tune until I get the pulley. Did you run a 2.59 pulley tune with the stock pulley? If that works I don't need to use up one of the three tunes for a "plain" tune. I could go for a 100 octane race tune, or an economy tune or something. Silly - Thanks for the input. I'm well aware that the car requires premium fuel, but a stock tune isn't the same as a VMP tune, even at the same octane. Especially not if Justin can tune specifically for no-ethanol gas (which is readily available around me). There's no risk of blowing up the engine with an Airaid filter - the '12s already have a CAI installed; the Airaid just replaces the stock paper filter with a no-oil synthetic material. Slightly better airflow, but not nearly enough to peg the MAF and cause an overlean mix. Now, if I get VMP's port-matched elbow and twin TB - then I'm definitely going to need (another) new tune! But first I need a dual-fan HE and some wider rubber. I think the VMP guys are super busy right now; I asked them this same question a few days ago, but have not heard back. I'll have to try them on the phone. Thanks for the input, guys.
  2. If any of you have put a pump gas tune into your stock GT500, I'm interested to know what benefits you saw. I've got the resonator delete kit and an Airaid filter, but that's it. No pulley, no TB, nothing cool like that (yet!). Picked up a relatively cheap used X3 tuner, and I'm considering putting a 91 octane tune into the car, if I'd get something out of it. Thanks in advance.
  3. Doesn't the diff spin at the same speed for the same MPH? The selected gear only matches input (RPM) to output (driveshaft RPM = 3.73 x axle RPM). So if the diff whines at 80 MPH (approx 4,000 driveshaft - not engine - RPM), then changing from 6th to 5th will just change engine RPM. Diff is still spinning at same speed if car is still going 80. Maybe I misunderstand the OP's issue.
  4. Not enough to matter and it may make things worse. These tires are so low-profile, and rock-hard when cold, that I don't think you'll get much if any additional traction from the low PSI trick. Unless they've recently been filled, they probably already read a few PSI low just due to cold temps. Within the first 1,000 miles on my new GT500 I sold the Goodyears and switched to all-season performance tires year-round. They're better than the Goodyears at all temperatures, IMO. Maybe on a hot track day the G2s would shine, but I did not like them no sir. No need for two sets of tires until/unless I start hitting the track.
  5. Aw, man, don't leave us hangin'! Today I learned there is a thing called a "gravelometer" used to test the durability of paint and coatings. I have a clear bra on the front of my car; I'm happy with it for the most part, though the tight radii at the top corners of the upper grille has caused the film to pucker. And the guy who owns the film shop said that the bra really shouldn't be removed as the paint could be damaged. :huh: I'm hoping he misread the install guide or something, because I'd really like them to redo that area. This spray-on coating would be much better, if it's really colorless and removable, and if it takes wax and speed-shine products OK.
  6. I also have a 6-gallon pancake compressor for the house. Handy for filling tires and small air-tool jobs. Can't roof the entire house with it, though. :-)
  7. I got a VIAIR 90P compressor for the GT500. And a tire plug kit. The compressor has a 30-minute duty cycle and isn't too loud. Built like a tank. Only downside is it's a direct battery connection, not through the accessory port (I think the amp load is a bit too high).
  8. My car's about 15 months old and maybe 7,800 miles. For the first couple thousand miles, it showed MPG in the low 15s (I reset the counter a few times and let it go for a few hundred miles each time). Then, last summer, it jumped up to about 17. I drive 50/50 city/highway, and I'm not particularly heavy footed though all onramps must be taken at full throttle, naturally. Remember to slow from 100 to 60 when merging! The only change was the brand and viscocity of oil. I won't mention the name, as this isn't a plug for an oil company. But unless the computer decided to change the mixture at that arbitrary point, the oil is the likely culprit. Over the winter, mileage dropped about 1MPG; I have yet to drive the car enough in warm weather to see if it's going to tick back up. I guess the colder, denser air in winter allowed more fuel to be in the mix, giving me more HP on onramps, but also slightly lower MPG. Tire pressure probably also plays into it. And but so anyway, 12.8 MPG seems awfully low for normal driving, but if you're stomping on it a lot (racing your wife's 'vette?) it's probably reasonable. And the 100-mile drive in 6th probably averaged low- to mid-20s so if the rolling miles for the MPG calculation are 500, that could move the number quite a bit. A little back of the envelope math says that if you have 400 miles at 13MPG and 100 miles at 25MPG, your overall average will be 15.4. Was it 100 miles both ways?
  9. Wait wait wait... you had four adults in a GT500? Did you not like these people? But seriously, I'm glad nobody was seriously injured. Was it a straight T-bone and not a deflected/angled hit? If so, I'm impressed by the damage absorption by the door. Even though a Yaris is small, it ain't a bicycle. 2,300 lbs or so at 50MPH - I would have expected more damage. Ford Tough indeed. Good luck on the repairs and the mods! That car saved your butt and deserves to be back on the road!
  10. At what cost besides your self-respect, you mean? :lol2: Here's a thread on the topic. Guy says $3K if you do it yourself, double if you buy a pre-built transmission (and, presumably, have it installed by someone) And here's a blog post about it.
  11. Possibly helpful: http://www.paladinmi...wDiag.htm#P0460 Also this, which suggests (for the 3.7L Mustang anyway) that topping off the fuel tank (after the normal nozzle shut-off triggers) can cause an erroneous P0460 code: http://www.allfordmu...ngine-code.html
  12. It means "This is the car with the drugs in the side panels." I wouldn't try to cross any borders if I were you.
  13. Does the manual have anything to say about attaching the top tether? I would think it could fit between the headrest and the seat back, but I have no kids so WTH do I know. :-)
  14. I don't think I've ever been in a murderous rage...what's it like? I've always been partial to dealer repairs (assuming you can find a good dealer to work with) with all OEM parts. At least for newer cars. Here's hoping that their insurance pays 100% of the repairs, plus diminished value, and that the trade-in + DV = cost of the new 2013!
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