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Everything posted by IngotSilverSnake

  1. 3,700 miles on my 2012 (Purchased new in Apr 2012) . Only goes out in perfect weather.
  2. "Yes, I got a reasonable trade" Curious as to the number they gave you for your 2012 Shelby.
  3. Good advice. After washing my Shelby I drive it around the block a couple of times to dry the brakes before putting it in the garage.
  4. Go to the Startron website. The additive is made for all gasoline engines (http://mystarbrite.com/startron/). Boat engines ARE a good example. I used the example because boats sit for a very long time with little use and the fuel is subject to the effects of long term degradation. The problem is no different for a car that sits for a long period of time without use. As I said previously, I have used Startron in all my vehicles and small engines for years with no fuel related issues. Empty gas tanks will accumulate condensation and you will have water in the tank over time. I would NEVER advise anyone to store a vehicle with an empty tank unless they were prepared to drain the water out before use. Very hard to do for most cars (and boats).
  5. I think the owners manuals for every car made today recommends against using fuel additives. All I can tell you is that the consequences of running stale fuel in you engine are far more serious than any risk associated with using a high quality additive like Startron. As I said above, I never heard of any problems with anyone using Startron in their boats. We had a lot of problems with customers that did not use a stabilizer when storing boats. I currently use Startron in every vehicle I own and have done so for many years. Never a fuel related issue of any kind.
  6. Agree that starting and idling a car in storage would do more harm that good. It takes a significant amount of time to "cook" the condensation out of the engine and exhaust system that forms when it is started. Actually, I never start my Shelby unless I can drive it for at least 15 miles.
  7. Here are my recommendations to prepare your Shelby for storage. I was in the marine industry for years and the proper winterization of boats was important. Some of my suggestions come from that experience: 1. Change the engine oil and filter prior to storage. Used oil contains chemical contaminants that can cause corrosion in to internal engine parts during long periods of storage. 2. Put a fuel stabilizer in your gas tank. I recommend StarTron. It is particularly effective for preserving ethanol fuels up to 2 years. Boats and yachts often sit for long periods of time without use. Never heard of a single fuel related issue for those using StarTron. Actually, I use Startron year around to prevent fuel problems from occurring. http://mystarbrite.com/startron/ 3. Make sure the gas tank is 95% full when stored (leave some room for expansion when the weather gets warmer). This prevents open space in the tank that can allow condensation to form and run into the fuel under certain atmospheric conditions. A full tank greatly reduces the risk of this occurring. 4. Get an intelligent battery maintainer that will keep the battery charged but automatically regulate the current to prevent overcharging. I use a CTEK Multi US 7002. Very good piece of equipment. I also leave the battery in the car. http://smartercharger.com/products/batterychargers/ctek-multi-us-7002/ 5. Check the engine coolant levels. Test the coolant for proper anti-freeze protection levels. If the coolant is bad, flush the system and add new coolant. Don’t forget the SC coolant system as well. 6. Inflate the tires to the correct pressure. Use Flatstoppers to prevent flat spots on your tires http://www.autogeek.net/tire-supports.html 7. Chock the back wheels (I use large rubber chocks) to prevent the car from rolling. Release the emergency brake. If left on for long periods, the metallic brake pads can fuse to the rotors. 8. Wash the car and apply a good protective coat of polish. I recommend Liquid Glass. http://www.autobarn.net/liquid-glass.html 9. A car cover to keep the dust out is OK as long as it is porous and can breath. Heavy, non-porous covers allow moisture to collect underneath and corrosion can result. This is true for both indoor and outdoor storage under a cover. 10. If you live in a damp area or store the car in a damp area. Put some No-Damp canisters in the interior to absorb any moisture that gets in. http://www.starbrite.com/category/no-damp-dehumidifier 11. If you have a rodent problem, cover the exhaust pipes to prevent the critters from building a nest inside. Rodents can also chew up wires and get into other places in the car and cause havoc. I recommend mouse/rat traps if the circumstances warrant. Another alternative is to get a garage dwelling tom cat. That is correct. Your dog cannot help you with a rodent problem. Good luck!!
  8. Love the clip. Thanks for sharing. Spent 27 years in the AF. Never gets old even after being retired for 18 years.
  9. Wow. Defective MPSS tires. And all the hype about how great they are. Glad I stuck with my OEM Goodyears. Wearing Perfectly.
  10. Might try some door edge guards. There are many different sizes and colors available at this site. You can cut to size. http://www.brandsport.com/trimgard1.html
  11. Well if it is against the law, that is news to me. If so, it must be a federal law (and VERY recent) if it applies nationwide. I "assume" that this sort of matter is covered by state laws. Here are some articles to support my "assumption." http://articles.chicagotribune.com/2014-05-28/classified/chi-dealers-defend-car-loan-mark-ups-20140528_1_interest-rate-cfpb-loan http://www.usnews.com/opinion/economic-intelligence/2014/02/27/how-auto-dealers-cheat-borrowers-with-interest-rate-markups http://www.bankingmyway.com/credit-center/auto-loans/pricey-car-loan-blame-dealer And yes a lot of dealers are "taking you" because the same loan can be had directly from the financial institution for substantially less. In addition, the dealers "forget" to mention that and many make it seem like they are working hard to get you the best rate. At best it is deceptive. My point was to let forum members know that it is wise to do some advance research and determine the best rates available to them before going to the dealership and that is still good advice. In my experience, the dealers tend to take advantage of those that can least afford it (people with bad credit that don't think they can get financed at all). A lot of these types of customers just want to get financed no matter what. Easy pickins.
  12. The guy is obviously trying to sell something. However, I can tell you that finance mark up is a common practice. Dealers will get the loan quote from a bank or finance company and then add 1 or more percentage points to the loan (as much as they think they can take you for). It is always best to check with your own bank, credit union, or finance company BEFORE going to the dealer. Dealers will quickly drop the mark up if need be to get your finance business. The uninformed and unprepared always pay more than necessary.
  13. Well organized? They drained your oil and removed the filter without even checking the vehicle requirements. One of the great things about this forum is the inputs and ideas you get from everyone. Some you may like and some you may not but it is always good to get the benefit of member experiences. Not everyone has their minds made up when they post something. Nobody is judging you. I suggest the best approach is to thank everyone for their responses and constructive criticism. If you consistently go on the defensive, you may get no responses at all.
  14. First of all, I would not take my lawn mower to Jiffy Lube for an oil change. If you do a little research on this and other related forums, you will quickly realize that the best approach is to change your own oil and filter. There are numerous stories of Ford dealers using the wrong oil or filling cars with the wrong amount of oil. The horror stories about quick change oil places (Jiffy Lube in Particular) are too numerous to mention. Get yourself some Race Ramps and change your own oil. http://www.jiffylubeproblems.com/Experiences601-625.htm http://www.consumeraffairs.com/automotive/jiffy_lube.htm http://jiffy-lube.pissedconsumer.com/ http://www.jiffylubeproblems.com/
  15. I would get excited about an SS build if I could afford one. Maybe if I win the lottery. That would be very "lustrous."
  16. Here is a thread from GT500.com that speaks to this issue. It is a common problem that results from contamination of the aluminum hood at the factory before they are painted. My 2012 has some small bubbles that have not changed much since I bought the car new. As you will see from the thread I posted that I looked at every late model car at a Mustang show in Sarasota FL a while back. Lots of them had the problem to varying degrees. A repaint is really the only fix and you run a risk doing that. Aluminum requires special processes to paint and if the shop does not know what they are doing you may end up with the same problem all over again. http://www.fordgt500.com/forums/archive/index.php/t-18417.html Here is the TSB. It covers your car: http://www.stangnet.com/images/stories/docs/s197_TSBs/06-25-15.pdf
  17. Sorry I am late to respond to your request. I recommend Liquid Glass Polish and products and have been using them for over 30 years. Let me give you one personal example of what you can expect after the long term use of LG Polish. Took my 2001 Dodge 2500 Ram to a new dealer for service a few days ago. I have owned the truck since it was new and it has over 75 coats of LG on it. The paint looks far better than factory new after almost 14 years on the road with 100K miles. When I pulled into the service lane, the first thing the advisor who met me said was "this is the best looking Ram I have ever seen." He did not say, the best looking old Ram, but the best looking Ram (and he sees a lot of them). He said the finish was outstanding. After the truck was in the service bay, the advisor took me back to meet the tech and review some recommended service options. The first thing the tech asked me was what I was doing to make the finish look so good. The answer was easy - Liquid Glass. He said that every tech in the shop had come over to look at the truck and could not believe it was the original paint job. The word spread around the dealership pretty quick and one of the parts guys with a classic Challenger wanted to know about LG as well. I have posted a photo of my truck. Just in case you want to try the products, I have sent you a PM with my detailed recommendations. Here is a link where I buy: http://www.autobarn.net/liquid-glass.html
  18. Great photos. I suspect you are a professional photographer (or should be). Since you list boobs as one of your interests, how about some photos?
  19. I have not had a flat yet (with the Shelby). I purchased a better compressor that hooks directly to the battery (do not want a lot current flowing through the power point on the dash). I also bought a plug kit to repair clean punctures on the tread if necessary (don’t like the goo machine the car came with). Using this equipment, I have done successful tire repairs on the road with other cars in the past. If that does not work, then I would call a tow truck. Here are the links to the products: http://www.amazon.com/Viair-93-VIAIR-Portable-Compressor/dp/B001MXL71A/ref=sr_1_5?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1367353966&sr=1-5&keywords=portable+air+compressors http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/detail/SLI0/1034A/N0179.oap?ck=Search_N0179_SLI_-1_-1&mn=Slime®&mc=SLI&pt=N0179&ppt=C0337
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