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Norton

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About Norton

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    Long-time SVT Enthusiast

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    Mountain
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  1. I agree with all those who predicted little impact from the 2020. Entry price is too high and, for many of us, the new one is not a suitable substitute for the S197 chassis. The '13/'14 MYs came with 3-year/36,000-mile bumper-to-bumper and 5-year/60,000-mile Powertrain Warranty coverages. While warranty may play into some price variances, I doubt it's a major factor. There was no precipitous drop in prices (last year for '13s or this year for '14s) but, rather a continued slow decline. There are plenty of unmolested garage queens for which I wouldn't think twice about warranty coverage. (At the "45-50+ grand range," I assume the ones you're considering fall into the unmolested garage queen category.)
  2. Thanks. Site currently won't load for me but, unless something's changed, the sample report I saw was for an older vehicle. I'm interested in seeing one for 2013/2014 MY since, as mentioned previously, reports on older vehicles contain a lot more information than the new ones.
  3. Having bought a (previously available) Deluxe Marti Report for my car, I agree with @twobjshelbys. I found their web site lacking and the report underwhelming. With that in mind, does anyone have an actual "Personal Statistics Report" they can post? I'd like to see how detailed the stats really are before throwing more money at one of them...
  4. Depreciation is a sad fact of life, when it comes to cars so, the longer you wait, the lower prices will go for at least the next decade. (At the same time, finding low mile, unmolested specimens will become harder and harder.) Being a 2013 owner, I'm biased, but I think the '13 and '14 MYs will hold value better than others for several reasons. First, they're the last S197 chassis GT500s, and the S550s just don't do it for some of us. Second, they will no longer be the most powerful Mustangs ever created, but their title as the fastest is in no danger. Third, the new one offers no option for those of us who demand a manual transmission. Finally, '13 was the last year Carroll Shelby had anything to do with providing vision for the car. I've had good luck locating vehicles with AutoTrader and Cars.com. Make sure you know what to look for, and more importantly, what to avoid in these cars. Good luck!
  5. Miles are high for the car. (There are a lot of low mileage specimens available.) Price is high for the miles. Your "Interests" mention Super Snake, while your question simply says GT500. I don't mean to insult, but want to ensure you understand 2014 GT500s were produced in Michigan, by Ford, under license from Shelby. 2014 Super Snakes started their lives as "basic" GT500s (with sticker prices ranging from ~$55K to ~$70K), but underwent conversion by Shelby American (or one of their licensed dealers) turning them into Super Snakes (with package prices starting around $45K, making the original cost of a "real" Super Snake over $100K). Upgrades include performance, handling, and cosmetics. A "real" Super Snake should have a CSM number (in addition to a VIN) and extensive documentation from Shelby. If it doesn't have a CSM (easily confirmed through Shelby American), it's NOT a Super Snake. At $42K, I'm sure the car you're considering is not a Super Snake. All of that said, the list of potential issues is long but, as with any used vehicle, depends entirely on how the car was treated. These cars are sturdy but, if they've been ridden hard and put away wet, save your money and look for another one. Things I'd look at include: inside and outside cleanliness (dirty/tired = improper routine maintenance), stock or upgraded intake (upgraded = possible hard use), stock or upgraded throttle body (upgraded = possible hard use), stock or upgraded supercharger pulley (upgraded = possible hard use), stock or upgraded supercharger (upgraded = possible hard use), stock or upgraded lower pulley (upgraded = possible hard use), stock or upgraded exhaust (upgraded = possible hard use), stock or upgraded rear gears (upgraded = possible hard use and probable gear whine), condition of the oil, brake fluid, and coolant (dirty/tired = improper routine maintenance), type/size/condition of tires (upsized and/or heavily worn = possible hard use), and condition of clutch (worn/slipping = probable hard use). If intake, throttle body, pulleys and/or supercharger are upgraded, car has probably been tuned (tuned = possible hard use and potential warranty issues). If it's been tuned, you'll want the handheld tuner used to do it and the name of the shop that developed the tune. Good luck!
  6. Just over a month until the Spring Detail Clinic at Adam's HQ... ALL years, makes, and models are welcome! Get your rides ready for the upcoming car season. Clinics usually last a couple of hours, but everyone is welcome to come when they can and free to leave when they must. Unless you decide to buy something, attendance is FREE - just show up, socialize, and learn!
  7. Forgot to mention... There is no cost. Unless you decide to buy something, it's FREE. Clinics usually last a couple of hours, but everyone is welcome to come when they can and free to leave when they must. Just show up, socialize, and learn.
  8. The Colorado Shelby Club partnered with Adam and his team to organize a Spring Detail Clinic at HQ (8225 North Valley Hwy, Denver, CO 80221-4810) on Saturday, 6 Apr, following Lafayette Cars & Coffee (around 9:30AM). All years, makes, and models are welcome! Get your rides ready for the upcoming car season! Please RSVP here if you plan to attend, so Adam's can staff appropriately.
  9. Sounds like it. +1 to all of this.
  10. Your picture didn't come through but, FWIW, my 2013 keys came with a white plastic tag measuring about 2" x 0.5". It has information, including Ford Part Number DR3V-15K601-AA, an FCC ID Number, and IC Number, a bar code, and my key code printed in black on one side. My key code is a 5-character alpha-numeric, consisting of 4 numbers and 1 letter. As I understand it, that code permits new keys to be cut. The problem I think you'll have is that, as described on pp 70-71 of your Owner's Manual, customer Programming of a Spare (or, in your case new) Key requires the presence of "two previously programmed coded keys and the new unprogrammed key." The Manual's advice, if two previously programmed coded keys are not available, is to "See your authorized dealer to have the spare key programmed." Without the ability to "program" the keys (which really means pairing them with your ECU), you'll have a new key that will mechanically actuate the locks and ignition, but won't start the car.
  11. Yes. If you bought it new, you should have received the key code tag with your key, manuals, etc. If used, the original owner should have transferred the same to you. Not sure how much it helps, based on your description of Ford providing "zero help," but they CAN provide key code, based on your VIN and proof of ownership.
  12. I recommend contacting Chris Ruby. My dealings with him are a couple of years old, when he worked at Shelby Performance Parts, but the service and advice he provided was top-notch. When I saw him at SEMA last year, he had transitioned to Shelby American, where I believe he is still.
  13. I drove my 2013 off the showroom floor (in Elma, WA) on Veteran's Day weekend (November) of 2012. To date, we've logged just over 25K miles together. She remains setup/tuned for pump gas, though she gets some 100 octane race gas when we visit the track. I changed the "break-in" oil shortly after getting her home, at ~2K miles. I changed it again at ~5K miles, the following fall (2013). I've stuck with that schedule, changing it every fall (prior to storing for the winter), meaning I'm on-track to do the seventh change in the next month or so. I manually reset the oil reminder to keep it from annoying me. FWIW, I run Amsoil Signature Series 0W-40 oil and EaO11 filters.
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