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About Norton

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    Long-time SVT Enthusiast

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  1. Just over a month until the Spring Detail Clinic at Adam's HQ... ALL years, makes, and models are welcome! Get your rides ready for the upcoming car season. Clinics usually last a couple of hours, but everyone is welcome to come when they can and free to leave when they must. Unless you decide to buy something, attendance is FREE - just show up, socialize, and learn!
  2. Forgot to mention... There is no cost. Unless you decide to buy something, it's FREE. Clinics usually last a couple of hours, but everyone is welcome to come when they can and free to leave when they must. Just show up, socialize, and learn.
  3. The Colorado Shelby Club partnered with Adam and his team to organize a Spring Detail Clinic at HQ (8225 North Valley Hwy, Denver, CO 80221-4810) on Saturday, 6 Apr, following Lafayette Cars & Coffee (around 9:30AM). All years, makes, and models are welcome! Get your rides ready for the upcoming car season! Please RSVP here if you plan to attend, so Adam's can staff appropriately.
  4. Sounds like it. +1 to all of this.
  5. Your picture didn't come through but, FWIW, my 2013 keys came with a white plastic tag measuring about 2" x 0.5". It has information, including Ford Part Number DR3V-15K601-AA, an FCC ID Number, and IC Number, a bar code, and my key code printed in black on one side. My key code is a 5-character alpha-numeric, consisting of 4 numbers and 1 letter. As I understand it, that code permits new keys to be cut. The problem I think you'll have is that, as described on pp 70-71 of your Owner's Manual, customer Programming of a Spare (or, in your case new) Key requires the presence of "two previously programmed coded keys and the new unprogrammed key." The Manual's advice, if two previously programmed coded keys are not available, is to "See your authorized dealer to have the spare key programmed." Without the ability to "program" the keys (which really means pairing them with your ECU), you'll have a new key that will mechanically actuate the locks and ignition, but won't start the car.
  6. Yes. If you bought it new, you should have received the key code tag with your key, manuals, etc. If used, the original owner should have transferred the same to you. Not sure how much it helps, based on your description of Ford providing "zero help," but they CAN provide key code, based on your VIN and proof of ownership.
  7. I recommend contacting Chris Ruby. My dealings with him are a couple of years old, when he worked at Shelby Performance Parts, but the service and advice he provided was top-notch. When I saw him at SEMA last year, he had transitioned to Shelby American, where I believe he is still.
  8. I drove my 2013 off the showroom floor (in Elma, WA) on Veteran's Day weekend (November) of 2012. To date, we've logged just over 25K miles together. She remains setup/tuned for pump gas, though she gets some 100 octane race gas when we visit the track. I changed the "break-in" oil shortly after getting her home, at ~2K miles. I changed it again at ~5K miles, the following fall (2013). I've stuck with that schedule, changing it every fall (prior to storing for the winter), meaning I'm on-track to do the seventh change in the next month or so. I manually reset the oil reminder to keep it from annoying me. FWIW, I run Amsoil Signature Series 0W-40 oil and EaO11 filters.
  9. The answer, unfortunately, is IT DEPENDS. Many factors, including power level (OEM or upgraded), driving style (Sunday drives or 1/4 miles runs at the strip), driver skill with the clutch, and the clutch itself, affect how long a clutch will last. I've read several reports (including right here) of them failing with just a few thousand (supposedly easy) miles on them. I've also read reports of them lasting thousands more miles, despite power upgrades and time at the strip. My car was at stock power until last year and has been babied over 90% of of it's ~22K miles. That said, I've logged over 30 half- and full-mile race passes, including ~10 after last year's 733 RWHP & 713 RWTQ power upgrade. My clutch is still good, but I want to be prepared for its inevitable demise. The clutch in a friend's 2014 with similar power upgrades failed at ~5K miles and less than 6 half-mile race passes. Go figure!
  10. I'm at ~22K miles on the original clutch in my 2013. Upgraded power last year, so I know it's on borrowed time. Considering McLeod, Spec, and Centerforce. All have their fans and detractors, with experiences to match. I look forward to hearing about your experience McLeod, Tom.
  11. FWIW, mine came off without much brute force and no removal of the shift boot.
  12. Then, you had to prove you owned a Shelby-converted vehicle with a CSM number, that was originally equipped with them. Then, you could pay ridiculous amounts of money to Internet "capitalists," unless you knew somebody who could/would get them for you at cost. Now, anybody who wants them can buy them for a comparatively reasonable price. (Long overdue, IMO.)
  13. In fairness, they're not on sale. They're just available to the general public for the first time - lots of pent-up demand, apparently.
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