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acroholic

South Atlantic Region
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About acroholic

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    Team Shelby New Member

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  • Region
    South Atlantic
  1. I agree. It was not too hard to do the change on ramps. The oil filter being right over a big metal brace could make it a bit messy, but I read a DIY earlier and had a piece of foil to direct the oil from the filter to the drain pan.
  2. As I was about to drive out, the Service Manger came out and asked what was going on. I told him exactly what had happened, and he gave me a business card good for a free oil change. An attempt to make it right, but I would have liked to just have gotten it done in a decent time interval. I wasted half a day on this and then messing around with doing the change myself. I upgraded to the Ford Racing oil filter when I did the oil change as well. I appreciate your offer and I will take you up on it. Feel free to give me a shout as if you need anything as well. I'm not a mechanic by any means, but I did have to do an adjustable panhard bar/panhard bar brace after I had the Alcoas installed to even out he rear wheels. Dave
  3. Well, the other day (no responses in this thread yet) I went to Sandy Springs Ford to get an oil change. One of the first things my service advisor told me was I should think about rotating my tires, which are Shelby 50th Anniversary Alcoas with Michelin Pilot Super Sport 305s on the back and 285s on the front. Great product knowledge there. Can't do that to the stock tires either. I was told the oil change would take no longer than 45 minutes. So after 30 minutes my car was still standing where I parked it, except it had been started/stopped several times to let the other 7-8 cars around mine that had come in after me, so I went out and had them pull the plastic from the seat, and I drove home. What a waste of a morning. Did the change myself.
  4. My change oil soon reminder came on yesterday. I bought my car in Buford , but I live in Sandy Springs, so I was wondering if Cherokee Ford in Alpharetta or Sandy Springs was OK to do an oil change on my '13 GT500? I could also do it myself, but I am busy right now. Thanks. Dave
  5. Man, I like the wheels you have better than the CS1s. I wouldn't change a thing.
  6. Well guys, I contacted Shelby Arte House, and they said no more hand signed prints past 2012, and of course nothing coming out for the 2013 Model Year with an actual signature (no surprise there), so I did the next best thing. They can, however, put a 2013 Owner's Plate on any print they have. So I have a 2013 Owners Plate with my name/VIN on a hand signed 2010 black with matte black stripes GT500 print, which is the same body style and stripe setup as my 2013. Not ideal, but I am OK with it. Dave
  7. I read the link Grabber, and I wondered how much oil is not drained into the car by having the front up on ramps like that? I used change my Corvette's oil like that, except I also jacked up the rear of the car by the center diff to get the oil completely drained.
  8. Yup, that's the way it comes from BMR. Product description: Reinforces Panhard Bar. Replace that wimpy stock light gauge stamped metal brace Ford installs with their Panhard Bar with a BMR Suspension Upper Panhard Support Bar for additional strength to prevent deflection under load. The passenger side has a slight bend to allow for additional exhaust clearance. Actually, the equivalent Shelby PH Bar and Brace look like a rebranded BMR Bar and Brace. Heck, it is a BMR Bar and Brace..just looked at the picture. Same thing as what I just installed. Where's the "CS" Laser Etched Logo on the Shelby product, hehehe?!!!
  9. I don't suppose Mr. Shelby signed anything in advance that will come up in a print for the 2013 GT500 year? I would love to have an authentically autographed print of a black 2013 GT500 instead of an autopen autograph. Probably just wishful thinking.
  10. Does this mean I'm gonna have to get rid of my Bob's?
  11. Jer, Would you mind not hiding behind the bushes...........I can't get a clear shot, hehehe!
  12. So you are plugging your own products you are selling on ebay, right? Very objective post you have here.
  13. Guys, I will try to take some pictures tomorrow looking down at the wheels. I have the rears balanced now that the adjustable panhard bar is installed. There was no rubbing, except for an an edge of the front passenger tire on the Jaeger Brothers mud flap I installed. I removed the flap and Dremeled the rubbing area and it is great. Fronts can turn lock to lock without any rubbing. No rubbing of the rears either. There would have been no rubbing if I hadn't had the Jaeger flap installed.
  14. I ended up buying a breaker bar, a couple torque wrenches, and some larger metric sockets. I was seriously under equipped toolwise to do this job. Found out that you cannot remove the panhard bar brace bolt with the car up on wheels like I had it. You need to set the car on jack stands at the pinch welds in front of the rear tires to unload the suspension, then slightly jack up the rear diff to manipulate the axles so you can slide the flag bolt off between the rear passenger spring. Oh well, another job for another day. But the adjustable panhard bar went in fine, and I have it adjusted so the rear wheels are even...yay!!!!
  15. So I get my Alcoas installed, yay! Now the driver side rear sticks out further than the passenger side. OK, lets install an adjustable panhard bar, and while I'm there, let's install an aftermarket panhard bar brace. So I get the cars rear up, and found a good use for the stock wheels at the same time, and I find I cannot loosen the panhard bars torqued to 129 ft. lbs nuts with my socket wrench. So off to the parts store to get something longer. I guess this is one time 8 inches is not enough!!!!
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