Jump to content


Canada Region
  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

About NorthSnake

  • Rank
    Team Shelby New Member

Profile Information

  • Region
  • Interests

Recent Profile Visitors

319 profile views
  1. I actually have the full 2010 FRPP TVS kit (used on my 2009 GT500 vert), including the Ford Racing "Pro Cal tool" used to update the tune. You can always try it with just the "KR tune" and see what happens if you want to risk it. I would certainly have it checked on a dyno with Air Fuel readings before any kind of throttle on the street is applied. Its just cheap insurance, keep in mind that our cars do not have the large safe range of built in computer tuning that later models (2011?+) have with knock sensors etc. The kit did not require a tensioner or anything as far as I recall. I might have the instructions somewhere or you could look it up online using the old Ford Racing part number and see what was included in the kit, if no belt or tensioner you have your answer. 😃 I bought my full kit used from a guy upgrading his SuperSnake to a larger Whipple years ago. Anyhow I really can't see how the KR tune could adapt properly for the 2.3 TVS vs the factory Eaton. As far as I can see the KR tune has a slightly higher airflow range to account for the 45?ish HP gained from the CAI and ported KR hood. The TVS adds considerably more air and hence far more power even at the original base kit levels than even the KR of at least 100hp (not WHP though) . I long ago changed to a 2.5 pulley (required auxilliary tensioner), vmp 67 throttle body and elbow, injectors etc, hand ported the TVS etc and it dynos 654 WHP at 91 octane with VMP tune. Not sure if any of this helps, more of a "be cautious" post than anything else. Cheaping out on a tune or a dyno run can cost mega $$$ if assumptions or internet "heresay" are wrong. Cheers! From way up north!
  2. Not sure if you need a shorter belt or pulley, however I can tell you for certain the the "KR tune" with stock supercharger and intake will NOT suffice with NOS FRPP 2.3 TVS (605 or 660 hp). The kits came with a Refundable/Returnable Ford programmer used to update the tune(Specific to vehicle ECM number) and IIRC they had a CARB sticker for emissions certification.
  3. Well here was my journey to a satisfying sound. I have a 2009 convertible which had a factory NAV system, which was similar to the shaker 500 speaker setup with door subs and standard speakers in front and rear, without trunk sub. First I added the Shelby Kicker door subs, result... better, tighter bass, although it lost some "loudness" due to the higher Ohm rating of the new door subs using the factory amp. Second, replaced factory door and rear seat 4x6 speakers and added the Shelby Kicker upgrade 4.1 channel amp. Result, slightly better, louder sound with same distortion at higher volumes. Third, added JL Audio Stealth sub box in trunk with 500 Watt JL audio matching amp (Has built in voltage controls and remote amp control) with a Large Capacitor to take some burden off the alternator. As noted the alternators for 2007-2008 are extremely weak, 2009 had a slight upgrade. You cannot buy the Shelby alternator spec'ed for the 2007/2008 and use it on the 2009 without wiring and control changes. Result, far better base, added depth and complimented the door subs nicely without "Boomy" noise, very tight. Sound quality still not what I had wanted. Last, changed head unit to a refurbished Kenwood DNX892 with factory integration. It uses the factory trunk Sirius external box, antennae and gives the convertible sound processing options due to using the wiring adapter box that you can program, iDatalink Maestro ADS-MRR Ford Radio Replacement Interface . Result WOW! The head unit made all the difference after the other upgrades. Sound is crisp clean and as loud as you want, even on the highway with the top down. Benefits included a better GPS interface, bluetooth and phone interface with voice activation. ADDED BONUS really cool configurable digital gauges pulling data from the CANBUS system, speed, IAT2, even 1/4 mile times! I cannot tell you how cool this feature is! The headunit and the idata link have really nice features. I attached a picture. No regrets on the total system, it looks, feels and sound right.
  4. Hey team, can anyone help me understand why some areas of the forums keep coming up with errors and say they do not exist in the error message (IE items for sale) yet I can see that new posts are occurring and can access the posts directly? What am I missing in the settings?
  5. 2009 Convertible 654rwhp 19k miles and no issues yet. I have an RXT sitting in the garage waiting for the day the stock clutch will die and give my sore knee a break ....
  6. Carefully tape off the door plastic, the use quality 3M or Permatex spray adhesive on both the vinyl and door backing parts, then carefully roll it up and back in place once both pieces have set to "tacky". This worked nicely for me, no problems after 2 years and they look good as new. Use a plastic upholstery wedge or even a plastic spoon to tuck in the edges. Just make sure to mask the car well, I used blankets and old sheets to help.
  7. Found the dimensions: 10mm X 1.0 Thread - 33mm Long The Russel brand PN is: 639630 in case anyone was wondering.
  8. The TSB seems to have been applied to the 2009 models on the assembly line. Hopefully....I haven't heard of any issues with 2009 tops other than normal wear and tear. (Cross my fingers)
  9. Anyone know the size/thread pitch and length for speed bleeders for the front Brembos and rear Ford calipers for the 2009 Gt500's? I am going to add Eradispeed rotors (+2 in the rear) and stainless lines and want to get the speed bleeders while I am at it to do a good fluid flush. Thanks!
  10. Keep the seals well lubricated with good silicone jelly weatherstrip protectant and the will last a long time.
  11. I installed: For the door subs: Kicker Audio 8 Inch Woofers (Shaker) (2005-2014), with a JL Audio Amp and an Audio control LC2 spliced in to drive them both. Even stock before the amp upgrade they were a nice sound improvement and look great! It bolts in easy and the instructions are also simple. For the Full Range speakers: Kicker 40CS684, which sound far clearer than stock with nothing else done, then I added "Shelby Kicker 4.1 Channel Amp (2005-2011)" with my Nav system. That really woke it all up nicely. Note that the Kicker 40CS684 require the Ford pigtail adapter to make it plug and play but they bolt in perfectly. Then I got really serious and added a JL Audio Stealthbox and a nice Alpine Amplifier. Now it completely rocks, no problem with the top down now!
  12. Finished my 3:73 gear install last week. I also added an LPW Ultra low profile differential girdle with bearing pre-load adjusters, as well as an Axle Exchange GT500 aluminum one piece drive-shaft. All I can say is WOW. The car is silky smooth, no noise at all, no vibration, nothing. It moves quicker and revs far faster, it is catching me off guard just how quick the gears come up on my 2009 convertible GT500. I really need some DOT slicks now as the Nitto Invos are just not cutting it well into third gear now. Hands down well worth it. I might mention I used the Ford racing premium install kit, insisted the gear lash be on the tight side of tolerance and absolutely perfect on the mesh. The mechanic was proud as hell saying he had never done one so perfect in his entire career. The whole shop was in awe of the Shelby and treated it like it was made of gold. Bottom line is that I think some of the horror stories may be related to poor workmanship setting lash or installing pre-load on bearings etc. The gears are simply NOT supposed to whine, just like the factory differential msb64 used. Next up, BMR upper control arm with Drake heavy duty bracket.
  13. I hear that! Just pulled mine out as well and gave it the once over on the rims. the CS40's have waaayyy too many nooks and crannies to clean!
  14. I haven't seen any TVS; Although it appears VMP is incorporating the high flow elbow which seems to be how they plan to get the big air flow directly into the rotor pack, I am pretty sure you would still need a 65mm+ sized TB to go with it. Probably a 67 VMP, 72 MM or monoblade. Just something to be aware of.
  • Create New...