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About NorthSnake

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    Team Shelby New Member

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  1. Well here was my journey to a satisfying sound. I have a 2009 convertible which had a factory NAV system, which was similar to the shaker 500 speaker setup with door subs and standard speakers in front and rear, without trunk sub. First I added the Shelby Kicker door subs, result... better, tighter bass, although it lost some "loudness" due to the higher Ohm rating of the new door subs using the factory amp. Second, replaced factory door and rear seat 4x6 speakers and added the Shelby Kicker upgrade 4.1 channel amp. Result, slightly better, louder sound with same distortion at higher volumes. Third, added JL Audio Stealth sub box in trunk with 500 Watt JL audio matching amp (Has built in voltage controls and remote amp control) with a Large Capacitor to take some burden off the alternator. As noted the alternators for 2007-2008 are extremely weak, 2009 had a slight upgrade. You cannot buy the Shelby alternator spec'ed for the 2007/2008 and use it on the 2009 without wiring and control changes. Result, far better base, added depth and complimented the door subs nicely without "Boomy" noise, very tight. Sound quality still not what I had wanted. Last, changed head unit to a refurbished Kenwood DNX892 with factory integration. It uses the factory trunk Sirius external box, antennae and gives the convertible sound processing options due to using the wiring adapter box that you can program, iDatalink Maestro ADS-MRR Ford Radio Replacement Interface . Result WOW! The head unit made all the difference after the other upgrades. Sound is crisp clean and as loud as you want, even on the highway with the top down. Benefits included a better GPS interface, bluetooth and phone interface with voice activation. ADDED BONUS really cool configurable digital gauges pulling data from the CANBUS system, speed, IAT2, even 1/4 mile times! I cannot tell you how cool this feature is! The headunit and the idata link have really nice features. I attached a picture. No regrets on the total system, it looks, feels and sound right.
  2. Hey team, can anyone help me understand why some areas of the forums keep coming up with errors and say they do not exist in the error message (IE items for sale) yet I can see that new posts are occurring and can access the posts directly? What am I missing in the settings?
  3. 2009 Convertible 654rwhp 19k miles and no issues yet. I have an RXT sitting in the garage waiting for the day the stock clutch will die and give my sore knee a break ....
  4. Carefully tape off the door plastic, the use quality 3M or Permatex spray adhesive on both the vinyl and door backing parts, then carefully roll it up and back in place once both pieces have set to "tacky". This worked nicely for me, no problems after 2 years and they look good as new. Use a plastic upholstery wedge or even a plastic spoon to tuck in the edges. Just make sure to mask the car well, I used blankets and old sheets to help.
  5. Found the dimensions: 10mm X 1.0 Thread - 33mm Long The Russel brand PN is: 639630 in case anyone was wondering.
  6. The TSB seems to have been applied to the 2009 models on the assembly line. Hopefully....I haven't heard of any issues with 2009 tops other than normal wear and tear. (Cross my fingers)
  7. Anyone know the size/thread pitch and length for speed bleeders for the front Brembos and rear Ford calipers for the 2009 Gt500's? I am going to add Eradispeed rotors (+2 in the rear) and stainless lines and want to get the speed bleeders while I am at it to do a good fluid flush. Thanks!
  8. Keep the seals well lubricated with good silicone jelly weatherstrip protectant and the will last a long time.
  9. I installed: For the door subs: Kicker Audio 8 Inch Woofers (Shaker) (2005-2014), with a JL Audio Amp and an Audio control LC2 spliced in to drive them both. Even stock before the amp upgrade they were a nice sound improvement and look great! It bolts in easy and the instructions are also simple. For the Full Range speakers: Kicker 40CS684, which sound far clearer than stock with nothing else done, then I added "Shelby Kicker 4.1 Channel Amp (2005-2011)" with my Nav system. That really woke it all up nicely. Note that the Kicker 40CS684 require the Ford pigtail adapter to make it plug and play but they bolt in perfectly. Then I got really serious and added a JL Audio Stealthbox and a nice Alpine Amplifier. Now it completely rocks, no problem with the top down now!
  10. Finished my 3:73 gear install last week. I also added an LPW Ultra low profile differential girdle with bearing pre-load adjusters, as well as an Axle Exchange GT500 aluminum one piece drive-shaft. All I can say is WOW. The car is silky smooth, no noise at all, no vibration, nothing. It moves quicker and revs far faster, it is catching me off guard just how quick the gears come up on my 2009 convertible GT500. I really need some DOT slicks now as the Nitto Invos are just not cutting it well into third gear now. Hands down well worth it. I might mention I used the Ford racing premium install kit, insisted the gear lash be on the tight side of tolerance and absolutely perfect on the mesh. The mechanic was proud as hell saying he had never done one so perfect in his entire career. The whole shop was in awe of the Shelby and treated it like it was made of gold. Bottom line is that I think some of the horror stories may be related to poor workmanship setting lash or installing pre-load on bearings etc. The gears are simply NOT supposed to whine, just like the factory differential msb64 used. Next up, BMR upper control arm with Drake heavy duty bracket.
  11. I hear that! Just pulled mine out as well and gave it the once over on the rims. the CS40's have waaayyy too many nooks and crannies to clean!
  12. I haven't seen any TVS; Although it appears VMP is incorporating the high flow elbow which seems to be how they plan to get the big air flow directly into the rotor pack, I am pretty sure you would still need a 65mm+ sized TB to go with it. Probably a 67 VMP, 72 MM or monoblade. Just something to be aware of.
  13. If you get the dealer to do it get them a printout of the TSB and use the info in Grabber's thread for a parts list: http://www.teamshelby.com/forums/index.php/topic/76365-clutch-drag-tsb-4th-revision-143818-if-you-have-to-pay-for-it/ Other wise get a new Spec or RXT. Thats what I will do when it goes. I anticipate changing it at 20,000 miles (my 2009 has 13,000miles right now with no issues on the original clutch). Remember the torque and Hp in these cars eats clutches for breakfast, its not what you are used to for wear rates. My 2 cents FWIW.
  14. You won't get much out of Corporate Ford. It is long past the original powertrain warranty. You will have to work with the dealer you bought it from to get support from the one who did the replacement 600 miles and 6 months ago. Sounds like an issue that the one who installed the clutch needs to rectify, with your selling dealer doing the work to get it fixed.
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