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Will's Shelby

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About Will's Shelby

  • Rank
    Team Shelby New Member

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  • Region
    Pacific Coast
  • Interests
    Drag racing. Softball. Golf. Airplane maint.
  1. I went with a Stainless Works cat back only with resonators only (no mufflers) that had nice mandrel bends. It is a little louder than stock but not obnoxious.
  2. Stay AWAY from the Shelby (ACE) clutches. I've been through (2) twin disks. Both on average lasted 4-5k miles a piece. The first one had eaten itself so bad that ACE replaced the unit under warranty. Here I am waiting to replace the second one already, and it never even had 1 day at the strip on it. The stock one lasted 4 times longer than these with tons of passes. (710rwhp) Do yourself a favor and go Spec or Mcleod.
  3. All I know is when/if they come out with another GT500, I will be going overseas for work on purpose just to get into that military exchange drawing. Worked perfect when I ordered my '14. Was 1 of 30 people drawn to be allowed to purchase through that program. I was stoked, AND got about the best deal out of anyone I know who bought one.
  4. Another update. Well, the 2nd Ace twin disk lasted less time than the 1st one. About 4-5k miles with NO drag passes. I did a rally with it on, and quite a bit of hard driving but mostly daily drove it. But, as with the first one, it has eaten itself. Makes the same squeeling noise the first one made due to the disks getting down to the large rivets, then it began slipping. It's in storage right now as I'm away on business, but I'll be putting either a McLeod or Spec in it literally the day I get back. The Ace has caused me nothing but headaches and wasted money. I don't know why Shelby is selling them. Design sounds awesome. Reliability is crap. Save yourself some heartache. Don't buy these clutches...
  5. Good luck with your Ace. My Ace twin disk lasted NO TIME. My stock unit lasted I "think" around 16k miles. That was with some decent heavy footed driving, mods (710/711) and many many 1/4 mile runs. Then I smoked it on my fastest run ever at Vegas Dragway. So I called Ace... Ordered the twin disk for around $1700 if my memory serves me correctly. Had it installed by GTR Performance in Ontario, California. It had ONE day at the track consisting of 4 runs. Lasted about 5k miles. Slipping in 3rd like crazy. Pulled the clutch. It literally ate itself. Ace covered a new unit under warranty and overnighted it to me. First they said the shims sent with the first clutch were wrong, then they told me they were right, then they sent me a tool to measure the throwout, etc. It was a headache. The second Ace is in now, and I haven't driven it that much as I'm away on business (less than 2000 miles). But for what it's worth, my stock clutch lasted 3 times longer than the supposedly sturdier Ace twin disk with less than 1/10th the amount of drag pulls. Good luck with it.
  6. My baseline dyno on a dynojet was 582/600 on a 95 degree day, low elevation, 40% humidity. Equated to roughly 12% drivetrain loss. Right as most thought it would be...
  7. How do these compare in feeling to the SPEC or Mcleod clutches? Also, any chatter? Thanks.
  8. I am curious about this as well as I'm looking at going with a 21x11 (or 11.5) rear wheel. (20x9.5 fronts) I know a 295 rear tire will not rub, but not sure of the following: 1. What would rub lowering spring wise with say a 325/30/21? (28.7" tall, 12.8" wide, 3.84" side wall) 2. If you go FRPP springs, should anything else be accomplished other than just the normal alignment? 3. If you go with sportlines, what are the additional things other than alignment that should be installed in keeping everything true and centered? (if required?)
  9. Came across this and thought I had updated again. Sorry I had not. Yes, I installed the solid bushings from RevanRacing. I also installed the KR rear shifter bushing since we would be in there. Went to the track...problem solved! I made 4-5 runs and not a single lockout or grind. So, a total of $70 and problem solved. Much cheaper than a whole shifter purchase for sure.
  10. Are these still available? Clicked on the link but was blank...
  11. Mine baseline stock dyno'd 582/599 at 96 degrees in the summer, 30-40% humidity, around 1200ft alt. Something sounds off...
  12. (Sorry for the delay in this response as I'm out of the country and for some reason the Team Shelby site doesn't like coming through on Government computers. ) What Ghoust posted I was advised to do as well as it seems others on other forums are having great success with what Van is selling. I plan on doing it when I get home. Evidently the shifter assembly is actually mounted in a way where it is not mounted directly to the trans, but to the car. Maybe someone has a better way of explaining this, but when you are wide open throttle/high rpm/engine slightly rotated (we all know how those shaker hoods work when you hit the throttle and watch her move), it takes the shifting alignment out of true since in essence the shifter is NOT rotating with the engine/trans.... Trans moves...shifter stays with body...direct shift engagement taken out of alignment. Hope that explains it. The new bushings fix the problem by not allowing the play as I understand it. Anyone who can back me up on this please chime in... Supposedly the Whiteline mod works for other cars with this issue as well. Just isn't one made for the GT500s yet. Go with the bushings.
  13. Looks like the Whiteline positive racing kit does not fit. Just fyi. Back to the drawing board. Thanks to all who have posted on this though. I will definitely evaluate my shifting position as far as straight back or to the side. Maybe that will help, but still shouldn't be having that issue. I will try and call Whiteline and see if they have one for the 6060 trans in the works.
  14. Wow that is very interesting. I have not reported it to ford either…yet. If the whiteline product does not help, then that may be my next stop. Thanks for posting that though…very glad to now know that was said.
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