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Everything posted by billross

  1. When the cars were delivered to the dealer from the factory, the lower splitter came in a box in the trunk (or "boot" as you say in the UK, hahaha). Lots of people never put them on to avoid scraping them on speed bumps etc.
  2. Most of the forward-facing front-end of the car is plastic, so it can't rust. The hood is aluminum, so it can't rust either. I suppose the aluminum hood can oxidize, but I think that'd be whiteish, not red/orange. The rocker panels are plastic too. So where are you seeing red/orange rock chips?
  3. I like my Jaeger stone guards too. They're barely noticeable and they keep some of the gravel from hitting the rocker panels and doors. They don't protect 100%, but they're a perfect compromise between inconspicuous size vs. stone chip protection. I'm liking the Grabber Blue! That color is my second favorite after Ruby Red.
  4. Thanks for the heads-up. US $4,000.00 or best offer, wow!
  5. Walmart sells Motorcraft filters too. I just picked up an FL820S for my Shelby for $3.97.
  6. I was detailing the car today and I noticed when the trunk lid is fully open, there's a drain hole in both the bottom left and right corners near where the hinge mounts to the trunk lid. The drain holes have a round plastic sticker glued to them. I want to pull them off, it seems if water gets in there you'd want it to drain out. I suspect it's something that should have been removed by the dealer before the car was delivered. Anyone else have them under their trunk lid?
  7. You said the harsh ride started when you installed the MPSS tires. Maybe you could switch to a "touring" type of tire with a softer ride? But obviously you'd probably be trading some traction for the softer ride.
  8. I have a stock '14 and a buddy of mine has a stock '12 that I've driven a bit. The power increase in the '14 is certainly noticeable but not dramatic. Things I like better in the 2013/2014: - The exhaust is louder. I'm not even tempted to look into an aftermarket exhaust. The 2014 exhaust is perfect. - HID headlights and LED tails are more modern looking and perform better. - The 220 mph speedo and the "track only" features on the dash are always good to impress passengers. - The clutch "hill assist" feature is a nice touch. Things I like better in the 2012: - The clutch is much easier to use. The clutch engagement is spread evenly through the entire pedal travel. On the 2014, the clutch does virtually nothing until you release it almost 2/3 of the way up. It's a lot more touchy and hard to launch gracefully. - The 3.55 gears are better in slow traffic. Less need to dip into the clutch to keep the car going slow. - I like the grills covering the various radiators up front. - The wheels are a lot easier to clean vs. the 2014 SVTPP wheels, and I prefer the silver finish vs. the black finish.
  9. So if you're a "belt and suspenders" type of person, you could put oil separators on both PCV tubes and the SC bubbler tube.
  10. The link I posted has a "/#34" at the very end. Most browsers will see that and take you to picture 34 on the page. But some browsers just drop you at the first picture. You need to navigate to the 34th picture on the page to see the picture of the tube.
  11. Yes Jer had a great follow-up to my post. I realize now that the crankcase can become pressurized under heavy-throttle/heavy-boost conditions and that will force oil vapors into the driver's side tube. I don't drive my car hard enough to worry about oil vapors on the driver's side, but a Shelby-brand separator for the passenger side is on my to-do list. Here's another interesting oil vapor-related tidbit I recently stumbed across that I'd never heard about before. There's actually a vacuum tube connected to the lowest point of the induction tract to pull any condensed oil from there back into the intake: http://www.mustangandfords.com/news/m5lp-1203-2013-ford-shelby-gt500-trinity-5-8l-v8/photo-gallery/#34 So the Ford engineers realize oil does make it's way into the intake and they've taken steps to prevent it from building up and causing trouble, but I'm convinced it's best to prevent it from getting there in the first place with an oil separator.
  12. Nice looking car, welcome to Team Shelby!
  13. http://www.svtperformance.com/forums/showthread.php?1037423-2014-Final-Production-Numbers-arrived-in-the-mail-today
  14. DR3V-001A04-AC3JA6 is the part number on the spoiler box that was shipped in my 2014's trunk.
  15. In the Vehicle Storage section, the owners manual recommends: "Start the engine every 15 days. Run at fast idle until it reaches normal operating temperature." Any opinions on that recommendation? This just seems to me like it would cause more harm than good. My opinion is the oil would fill with condensation unless you let the engine run for a significant period of time to burn off any accumulated moisture.
  16. That's why I'd be looking at the revolutions per mile specs instead of the diameter/circumference specs. Comparing the revs per mile for the two different tires should give a solid measure of impact on the speedo reading. I also have MPSS tires on my wish list just as soon as the Goodyears wear out. My biggest complaint about the Goodyears is how much sand and gravel they pick up and throw against the car.
  17. The best way to figure the impact on speedo readings is to find the specs for the stock rear tire to see how many revolutions per mile they do, then find the revolutions per mile spec for the new rear tire. From those numbers you'll be able to determine how many percent fast or slow your speedometer will read.
  18. Keep in mind too that if your car is still under warranty, you can't use just any 5W-50 synthetic oil, you have to use Motorcraft oil to ensure continued warranty coverage for your engine.
  19. When I changed my oil for the first time at 1,200 miles, it was surprisingly dirty. I thought it would still be mostly clear and yellow with that few miles, but it was dirty. The break-in process dirtied it up fast.
  20. I follow the owner's manual recommendations, every 6 months or whenever the "change oil soon" light lights up. I took delivery of my 2014 over the winter and didn't drive it until April. I changed the oil last week with 1,200 miles on it. I'll change it again in October right before I store it. So I'll probably change each July and October regardless of the mileage. I changed it myself. It uses 8.5 quarts of oil that costs $9+/quart at the dealer. The owner's manual says you must use Motorcraft 5w-50 to keep the warranty intact. It costs about $125 to have the dealer change it.
  21. I'm also constantly amazed by the opposite. I can never understand it when I frequently see nice high-dollar cars parked right up front, jammed in with all the POS cars, as if getting the doors banged-up on the nice car isn't even a consideration. For some people a car is just a transportation appliance, regardless of the cost, rarity etc.
  22. Yes I've seen that before. Ford stocks and replaces lots of things via sub-assemblies. If anything in a particular sub-assembly is broken, the entire sub-assembly needs to be replaced. For example, when changing the fuel filter in my Ford Crown Victoria, I broke a plastic clip that secures the filter to the fuel line. I went to the dealer and asked for a new clip. They said the clip isn't sold separately, I needed to buy a new assembly that included both the fuel lines and the clips. The assembly was hundreds of dollars. Fortunately I found that NAPA sells a package of several of the clips for a few dollars. So you may be out of luck if you want a brand-new sticker from Ford without buying the entire assembly. I agree that your best bet is to argue that the sticker falling off is a defect that's covered by the warranty.
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