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About BlackSGT

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  • Birthday 10/01/1959

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    Auto shows, road trips, track racing, car mods, photography, poker & travel.

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  1. I would recommend simply replacing the stainless screws with aluminum instead of rivets.
  2. I would call Shelby directly for a shopping list. I have the same setup. The boost-a-pump suffices but I would suggest a GT500 dual pumps. You'll need an intercooler, and bigger brakes for safety. Gauges are a nice touch but not required.
  3. Glad it worked out, looks a lot better now.
  4. The pins need to be lowered, they're set too high. Loosen and adjust the two nuts that attach the pins to the radiator frame and lower the pins about a quarter inch. You might have to tweak them a few times up or down to get everything snug. Use your old plates to get the pins right before you put the new plates on,. Your lanyards should be up, not down like you show in your photos.
  5. Yes adjust the actual pin lower, about a quater inch by the looks of it. Might take a few tries before you find the sweet spot. I'd leave the old ones on till you get the pin at the right level, then replace the plates. BTW, you should also replace your stainless screws with aluminum if you haven't already.
  6. Sway bar bushing set for Shelby GT = #M5490A. Regular GT bushings will not fit. Just had mine replaced a couple months ago. They will bind for a bit before settling in, so you might hear a different clunk or groan after installation. Only use silicon based lubricant. Regular grease eats the poly bushings, which might have happened to your SGT. https://www.cjponyparts.com/ford-racing-sway-bar-bushings-for-frpp-sway-bar-m5490a/p/M5490BKA/
  7. Unofficially, the Berg snake below is the "correct" cobra for the Shelby GT.
  8. Hey Jim, how we looking for the day trip to Xcentrick in Windsor?
  9. Remove 6 pins. Push the cover towards the engine to release from the upper grille "grove", lift pull back and slide forward from under the hood pin plates.
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