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jdt1970

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About jdt1970

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    Team Shelby New Member

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    repair and modification

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  1. looks like if you follow the path of that tab sticking out off the clutch (meant to contact the switch) you will see where it goes.
  2. Maybe this will help. It is from the 11-12 MX Manual:
  3. Justin, I sent you guys a email regarding this and asking about a few options. Please let me know what you think. Sent from email jdt1970@ thanks john thompson
  4. I hear you with getting the power to the ground. The torque arm / watts link installed made the car much more predictable when the power inevitable breaks the rear end loose. I don’t think a torque arm would hold up to repeated launches on drag radials as well as the third link though unless you did some welding. I think my next purchase will be some drag radials for the rear. I’ll see how that works while I use up the remaining tread on the front. Eventually I’ll end up with wider wheels but I want to get the stuff I have done sorted out first. These cars are a lot of fun!
  5. I am having resonators put in Monday and I will ask them to take a look at the mufflers. You mentioned stock exhaust on yours, does that mean stock manifold too or do you have headers? I am running the bigger injectors with the 10 over pulley. I will do some data logging once I get the exhaust done and send it over to VMP and if that doesn't work I will drive over and let them sort it out on the dyno. Here is what I have: 2012 GT500 SVTPP VIN: 1ZVBP8JS3C5248346 Purchased Used on 12/27/2012 with 6,301 miles Original sticker price $57,910…paid $47,900 10/2016: replaced UCA, LCAs, PHB and Brace with UPR double adjustable aftermarket parts in preparation for HP increase. Original parts retained 5/2017 44,839 miles (installed by VMP Performance and original parts retained): VMP GEN II-R TVS supercharger (2.5” pulley with ATI 10% OD Balancer) = 21psi VMP Twin Jet 67mm throttle body JLT 123mm Bic Air CAI ID 1050X injectors 90mm idler Brisk GR12YS spark plugs Fuel Pump Booster nGauge Tuner with VMP tune for 93 octane VMP Dual Fan Triple Pass Heat Exchanger w/ 3X capacity reservoir Reische 170 deg thermostat JLT oil separator 3.0 driver and passenger side HP estimate after 5/2017 is 750 crank 600 rear wheel 6/2017 Dynatech 1 7/8 Long Tube Headers and PowerCat converter / 4 bolt collector adapter for Dynatech LT’s 2.75” installed by VMP 6/2017 UPR LCA relocation bracket installed 1/2018 Removed UPR LCAs, UCA, and PHB then installed Cortex Racing LCAs, Watts Link, and TA 1/2018 Installed Dynomax 24248 Race Bullet Muffler between H and axle
  6. Justin, You guys put the stock tune in when I did the 820 HP kit and then adjusted it when I went with long tube headers. I had the same issue before and after long tubes. Here is an email I sent Alex about it: Alex, I am dropping my car off on the 21st to get the LTHs you recommended. I assume you will be updating the tune also at that time. I wanted to see if you could look at something while you are messing with it. I seem to get a little bit of a lag around 2000 RPMs in second gear when driving around town. When I add throttle to overcome it I get a lot of boost all at once. It could be that this is just the tradeoff for the increased performance. Is it possible to adjust this out (eliminate the lag and allow for a more modulated increase in boost with throttle position)? Thank You, Do you think you could tune out some of the low end torque issue if I brought it over for a dyno tune (I live in Orlando) or would I get just as good of a result from data logging and sending it to you. I want more control on accelerating from a standstill and also when powering out of a turn. The problem I have now is I cant get the car accelerating to its potential in 1st and 2nd gear because its all or nothing. If I add throttle to overcome the lack of low end torque then when it catches up I have a real problem keeping the car under control because the power increases dramatically. I love the power when it gets going but its very difficult to predict / control when that power is going to hit. Ideally I would like the power to be proportional to gas pedal movement at the low end of the torque curve. Even in third gear there is a rather dramatic point in the power curve where it sort of all comes at once. I have tried to fix this with adjusting how I drive but even in third gear I can get to this point where a slight movement of the gas pedal can cause a dramatic increase in power. A few times I was able to hold the gas at exactly this point and the boost kicks in and out like an on/off switch rather than rolling in smoothly.
  7. I have a very similar set up (also installed by VMP). I am also struggling with the same issue. I have no power / boost below 2000 rpm unless I add a lot of throttle. However, this doesn’t work because then I get all 20 pounds of boost and if I am not at speed already the wheels spin. I am planing on talking to VMP about putting it on the dyno and tuning it. I guess I could data log and do it by email also for free. I really just want it done on the dyno so there is no guess work. This issue makes it very difficult to accelerate from a standstill or accelerate out of a turn predictably. I am hoping it is possible to tune it so the boost comes in gradually at lower rpm rather than getting a huge bump all at once. It feels like the problem is that there is too much difference between when the car isn’t making boost and when it does start. It feels like a boost on off switch. Let me know what you find out and I will do the same for you. JT
  8. Hi, I saw a white with blue stripe Shelby in my work parking lot today with a South Atlantic sticker on the windshield. Just wanted to say hello. I work at JBU as an instructor pilot and drive a black 2012. John aka JDT1970
  9. I'm starting to think everyone has moved over to the GT500 site but I will keep this build thread alive in case someone stumbles across it on the same journey. I went with StopTech Cryo treated slotted rotors front and back and hawk ceramic pads. I ordered the 25 dollar rear brake tool set off Amazon to get the rear calipers compressed, Easy job. If you get the Hawk pads you will need to buy the hardware separate if the current clips are not still serviceable (I broke one of the rear pad clips being a perfectionist and trying to get it clean). VMP Performance is installing DynaTech LT Headers this month. I am hopping it's not too loud afterward. I am keeping the stock cat-back.
  10. I recently had the VMP 820 HP kit installed at VMP along with the rest of the stuff now in my signature. Car is really starting to feel like something I want to hold onto (not that it wasn't before but now that it has a little more personality ... keeper). Next I am planning on doing either the clutch and a one piece drive shaft or long tube headers. However, my brakes gave up their first squeak yesterday and the car has over 45K so I think the priority is now probably brake pads and maybe rotors. If anyone has a suggestion on either the brake pads or the rotors I would love to hear it. Low dust would be nice for around town since I do drive the car everyday.
  11. well that solves that issue...leaving the rear stock! It's not worth redesigning the whole system over when you could buy a couple sets of good tires for the same price and stop better.
  12. Barry the article did a good job of explaining why in the past resurfaced rotors did not work for me long term...the problem was most likely not a warp but a build up due to crappy pads or a thermal change in the rotor material. Good stuff!
  13. Good info! I will take a look at the article right now. I do like doing as much as I can myself so I will take them apart and take a look when I get an opportunity. I just did a pad replacement on my buddies 2016 Camaro this morning and the 4 Brembos were supper easy but I hear the rear stock brakes on the GT500 need a special tool. I need to read up on that more and see if AutoZone or similar has the tool to loan. I may just buy it but I am not convinced yet about keeping the stock rears. I know they don't do much but it would be nice to find a replacement pair of Brembos for the rear (not a high priority on the want list).
  14. The rotors have never been resurfaced. I don't know the thickness or if they are warped. I will get them checked this week. I just noticed the pulsing this past week. It's very faint but I know the feeling from other vehicles I have owned. I suppose it could be something else but it really feels like rotors. The pulsing is very faint right now. The car has 45k miles on it and these are the original rotors and pads (never been resurfaced before). The reason I am leaning towards replacement is past experience on another vehicle with resurfaced rotors. I had rotors resurfaced before and the pulsing returned within a year on a Buick I use to drive. Thanks
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