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slamarre

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About slamarre

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  1. Guys, Here is an update on my situation. I got in contact with those 3 dealerships on Friday April 26th. The only dealership that told me that they were trying to contact the previous owner was Ballentine Ford in Greenwood, SC. They were really cooperating with me. They left a voice mail to the previous owner. The other 2 dealership did not want to provide the information. On Tuesday April 30th in the morning, I got a call from the previous owner. Super nice guy. He explained to me that he installed the Steeda Clutch Spring pedal. He also told me that he installed the UPR Oil Air Separator as well. He seems to be an enthusiast. His family situation changed and he had to trade his GT350 for another car. Throughout the day, i did exchange text with him on several occasion and he was nice enough to reply with all the additional questions I had. Like how the car was driven the first 1,000 miles, etc. By the end of the day, I was so comfortable and confident that I called the dealership and made a $1,000 secure deposit. The car had 2,150 miles and I was able to get it for $53,350 which I think is a great deal. In addition, it has not stripes and has the black painted roof/top which looks very nice. I did not wanted and car with striped because I had a 2007 Shelby GT for 11 years and I was tired of stripes. They had to be replaced once and always a pain to maintain them. I just drove from St Augustine, FL to Greenwood, SC this past Friday to pick the car up. It was a 5.5 hours drive one way. I drove a one way rental over there. When I saw the car, I told myself, "is this the car I will leave with"?. I could not believe it. The car just got detailed and was looking absolutely stunning. I drove the car back home and arrived at 8pm the same day. I can tell you that it was an awesome drive back. I feel very fortunate about this situation and I am really happy to be a GT350 owner. What an incredible machine.
  2. Hi, I am shopping for a slightly used 2018. I have been able to find those 3 that are somewhat close to me. (I live in North Florida). I really like the mat grey color. https://www.mbnorthlake.com/used/Ford/2018-Ford-Mustang-2f1641830a0e0adf3382d374960700e7.htm https://www.georgeballentinelincoln.com/used/Ford/2018-Ford-Mustang-9bed38410a0e0ae9037bd50cca9c1960.htm https://www.woodyandersonmadison.com/vehicle-details/used-2018-ford-mustang-shelby-gt350-1FA6P8JZ5J5500666 The issue I have is that I want to make sure that the previous owner did follow to the letter the break in period outlined in the GT350 manual. So, I am requesting to talk to the first owner to ask this question and among others. Also, I would ask about if they had notice any oil consumption issues... I do not have the money to buy new and I do not want to pay the gas guzzler tax anyway. Is there anything else I should be looking for before buying a slightly used 2018 GT350? Thank you for your help.
  3. Good evening, I am in the process of selling my 2007 Shelby GT I am planning my next purchase. I would really like to buy a low mileage (less than 10,000) 2014 GT500 Convertible but I do not want to pull the trigger knowing that the value of those cars may go down with the arrival of the new 2020 GT500. I know it is a difficult question to answer but I would like to have your opinion. In addition, what is the best way to be aware of 2014 GT500 Convertible that could be on sale in the southeast? I am looking at CarFax.com, AutoTrader.com, etc but I am sure there are other way to look for this right? Thank you.
  4. Steve, I may have not explained myself correctly about the Billet Grill. Take a look at the picture attached. The Fog lights were re-installed behind the Billet Grill. It is barely noticeable but I felt that Fog lights are useful. Back when I bought it, i bough the OEM Fog lights assembly and just connected the harness and voila. The Mustang logo was removed but I kept it intact with the hardware to re-install if necessary. I agree with the CSM # on the airbag cover. That was done 8 years ago and I guess I did not think about that... Appreciate the feedback.
  5. Jeff, The airbag cover you see in the picture is an Ford OEM part that I have ordered especially to have it signed. It is not installed on the car because 1- I did not wanted to have it installed and have the risk to break it and 2- I do not want to have that part in the car and have the risk that the writing would fade over time. The signed airbag cover has been sitting in my closet in a box for the last 8 years. The original airbag cover in the car was never taken out and it is the original one. I understand about the Mods. I kept all the original parts when I decided to change them. The only exception is the radio that the CD changer broke and it was not cost efficient to buy an OEM radio with less features that a current model radio. Where I could sell the airbag cover separately to at least to know the value out of it? I am sure that eBay may not be the best option here. Are there any auction web sites about Shelby enthusiasts that I could search for? Appreciate the feedback.
  6. Hi, I am in the process of selling my 2007 Shelby GT Black 5sp/iup/Shaker 1000. Bought brand new in April 2008 in GA and the car lived in FL ONLY. The car has 86K miles. Based on the "Black List" post here on TeamShelby, I estimate that there are less than 500 cars made with this exact configuration among 2,876 manual black car made. (If you think that this is wrong, how can I know exactly how many were built with this exact configuration?) What has been done to the car since I bought it: Re-Installed the factory fog lights (They were taken off to install the Billet Grill and it looks great) Installed a Kenwood Excelon DDX794 radio with Sirius/XM to replace the factory that had CD changer issues (and was not having Bluetooth, still have the OEM radio in a box). Replace the 4 factory speakers for Infinity Reference X REF-8602cfx. Still have the original Shaker 1000 Sub-woofer in the trunk and working perfectly with the new Kenwood Excelon head unit. Billet antenna (I have original) Black Wheel Lock Nuts. Looks very nice with Black Wheels. I changed the hood pin cables a few years ago with original Shelby part as shown in pictures. Condition: For a 11 year car, paint is outstanding! Check the pictures. This car has always been washed with its own bucket/sheepskin mitt. And dried with waffle-weave towels. This car never visited a commercial car wash. Windshield was replaced about 2 years ago with a brand new OEM. Lemans silver strips were replaced in Fall 2016. They look brand new. Interior is a 9 out of 10 as shown in the pictures. I have ALWAYS had towels on the seats. I kept away the original Shelby Floor mats the day i purchased the car. They are in pristine condition. Small dent on the hood when i hit a piece of metal on the highway. Hood Scoop was replaced with updated version made of fiberglass in 2010. Custom Shelby Floormat Badges never used. They are in new condition. Car was ALWAYS garaged when parked home. In addition, I have a unique piece of history. I have a OEM spare passenger airbag cover signed by Mr. Shelby himself back in 2010. See the image attached/below. Sadly Mr. Shelby passed away in 2012. What would be the value of my car considering this piece of history? What would be the best option(s) for me to sell my car and try to maximize his value? Appreciate the help.
  7. Dear members, I wrote earlier this year about starting the process to buy a 2018 GT350. I have been reading this forum and it is now obvious that the Voodoo engines may have major issues about oil consumption. As of today, do we know if Ford is aware of the root cause of those issues? What are the chances that Ford will fix those problems for good at the factory on the 2018 MY? To be honest, i am scared at this point because i do not want to drop 55K-60K$ and be at the dealership having my engine replaced... Thank you for your feedback.
  8. Hi all, I have not written on this web site for years but better now than never. I currently own a 2007 Shelby GT and i am contemplating upgrading to a GT350. You know, i gotta have that VooDoo engine :-) I heard and read that the GT350 is selling over MSRP. Is it still the case? I live in north east Florida and i have not seen any GT350 at any dealership. Does it need to be ordered? If yes, how does this work? Is there quotas? Is there anyone of you that can share their experience buying this car and any tips and tricks to make this more enjoyable? Thank you.
  9. Here is an update. Went to the shop today and with all the stories I read here about using rivets with a new scoop, i gonna opt for: - 6-32 x 1 1/4 Button Head Socket Screws in Plain Aluminum (http://www.fastener-express.com/6-32-x-1-14-button-soc-cap-aluminum-qty-50.aspx) and - 6-32 Hex Lock Nut Aluminum 5/16 Hex Low Profile (http://www.fastener-express.com/6-32-hex-lock-nut-aluminum-516-hex-low-profile-Qty.-50.aspx) These looks as good as real rivent whithout the risk of cracking/damaging the scoop or stripes. Is there anyone on this forum who did that? If yes, can someone post some pics? Are the size and length good enough? Any risk of doing this compared to rivets? Thanks for your help.
  10. Lucky me... Went to Home Depot and hidden in a speciality drawer, I found 5 bags of a pair of Aluminum screws #8 1/2" long... Took all of them and also they are Philips head. Nice! I hope that those will fit.
  11. Here is an update. Shelby did authorize the claim top replace the strips and scoop. They are waiting on the parts to come in. In the meantime, they will repaint the entire hood because the old strips left some scratches and because of the corrosion of the hood plates/pins. They told me that they will have no problem to match the color since the color is black and my paint is in pretty good shape. The hood should be painted today, then the strips needs to be installed. Then they will wait 3 days before putting the scoop to make sure the new strips cures and settled correctly. Basically, i am not expecting to have my car back before mid next week. I am leaning more to NOT use rivet for now since it is nicer and everything is about taste. Anyway, if I ever decide to put back the rivets or sell the car (probably not), then it will still be possible since the wholes will be in the hood already.
  12. Got an update. They will re-paint my hood since they have removed the stripes and waiting for new ones and also because of the corrosion around the hood plates. They told me that they will have no problem to match the color since the color is black and my paint is in pretty good shape. I also told them to NOT re-install the original hood plates/pins since I bought the Shelby Aluminum Billet plates/pins. I will install the new plates/pins myself and this will be a nice little project for me. The only thing I am missing are aluminum screws. Take a look at those by searching on part # 93080A420 at http://www.mcmaster.com. The one from McFeely's are square heads and really like more the philips head. Will 3/8" screws be long enough? If not, I will buy the 1" long and cut them. They also carry 1" long Part # 93080A480. Or I may simply order both. Thanks for you help.
  13. After reading all your posts, I will go with the installation with rivet nuts. I do not think they are ignorant on what they are doing. I just appreciate the fact that they are talking to me about the options I have. They want my satisfaction after all and they told me that several times. They are in contact with Shelby since they have some concerns on the scoop they got. There may be a defect in the scoop they got from Shelby. I completely agree with Kvin C that I need to keep the car as original as possible. I will keep you posted.
  14. Hi, My car is in the body shop and i went in there this morning because they asked me to go over there for me to see my options. Basically, they are offering me 3 options: 1- Re-Install the old scoop. They did a good job of sanding an levelling the old scoop but after looking at it more carefully, i see that it is not perfect. In addition, the new scoop is better. I told them that this was not an option to put the old one. 2- Install the new scoop WITH all the Rivets. 3- Install the new scoop WITHOUT all the Rivets. They told me, and also i saw it, that the old rivet holes in the hood are not perfectly alligned with the new scoop and if they had to drill holes in the new scoop, they would not be perfectly centered. Also, the back of the new scoop is having a steep anlge and they feel that if they puch a rivet in there, it could crack the scoop. So, this is scarring me a lot. I really like the other option to install the new scoop with no rivets. They told me that they can do that by attaching the scoop with 4 bolts from under the scoop and also use some 3M double sided tape. They would reuse the front black bezel from the old scoop to attach the first 2 bolts. On the back, they would built from scratch a piece of plastic or something that they would glue with Industrial epoxy and this would hold the back of the scoop with 2 more bolts. On top of that, they would put 3M double sided tape. I have attached a picture of what it would look like and I really think it would look nice without rivets. I feel that without the rivet, it would give a much more refine and nicer look. (They will paint the black strip in the middle later since the strip that came with the new scoop is not wide enough) Does anyone knows if someone did get the new scoop and without the rivets?
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