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About ksteinbach

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    Team Shelby New Member
  • Birthday 05/26/1953

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  1. A pressure drop of 11" of H2O sounds huge. Years ago I played with a home made U-tube manometer and never saw anything close to that. K&N uses a 1.5" H2O drop in their standardized testing which is close to negligible restriction.
  2. Well, someone's got to piss on this love fest. I personally can't see anything in that $4600 list of parts that enhances a stock GT.
  3. I plug in my iPhone and use Pandora. Free and unlimited. I recently discovered another free app, Stitch, which I haven't used yet but which seems to offer everything that Sirius does.
  4. VMP has tested every CAI there is and I don't think they found a significant difference from one to another once properly tuned.
  5. Now all you need to do is adjust the throw on your E-brake. You're gonna tear a rotator cuff pulling it up that high.
  6. After installing my Griggs suspension my car weighed 3890. This was with Saleen 19 inch wheels which came in at a svelte 38 lbs. a piece. By switching to Enkei PF01 18x9.5's I lost approx. 85 lbs. Removing the Shaker 1000 subwoofer and amp saved another 50 lbs. (and made absolutely no difference in the sound of the stereo). So I figure I am around 3755 with half a tank.
  7. Again, the noise that makes me want to get rid of my car is coming from the front and has been there since the sla was installed. Any chance it could be a bad ball joint(s) and if so is there a way to check without just replacing them? Sorry to hijack the thread but I really hate this noise and unfortunately I can't seem to get a response from Griggs.
  8. I have the Quiet Option watts link and regular (not severe duty) front control arms,
  9. At the rear there is pinion bearing noise that is directly related to road speed: the faster you go the louder it gets. I assume this is due to the torque arm. I can more or less mask that with the radio. The really objectionable racket comes from the from control arms. They rattle like you wouldn't believe. It sounds like someone left a wrench banging around loose in the engine bay.
  10. Step on the middle pedal harder and engage the ABS. Seriously, the only real shortcoming of the stock system is the fact that the brakes get hot on a road course with repeated usage, in which case air ducting is the first thing one should do, but you're not going to be doing any hotlapping so fade isn't an issue. Different pads are going to have different initial bite characteristics, but that doesn't necessarily correspond to better braking. If what you are seeking is a shorter panic stop stopping distance, stickier tires are the answer since, ultimately, as soon as ABS kicks in it is the tires that determine your stopping regardless of what pads, rotors, fluid, or brakelines you have. Slots, holes, etc. are mostly cosmetic. Likewise big rear rotors. Ever seen the rear rotors of a Grand Am Mustang? They're itty bitty because the vast majority of braking force is supplied by the front. Lowering rotating mass with lightweight wheels also has a significant effect.
  11. So you didn't get the dreaded differential bearing noise transmitted into the cabin? Consider yourself lucky. My car has every conceivable suspension noise known to man.
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