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What is your two (2) letter state/provincial code or provincial code?

Found 11 results

  1. I've never tracked a car before. Ive found a place to got to with a reasonable price. But now I am wondering. What don't I know? Total newby. I'm gonna show up all excited and ready to learn and find out there's twenty things everybody there is already prepared for and I have no idea. Common my shelby brothers! Any advise to make this first track day not miserable?
  2. Curious to see what others have done as far as replacing calipers, without going to a big brake kit of some kind* Did some research and unfortunately there's not many good options for these cars outside of the big brake kit realm. Taking a look at both autozone and oreilly, I came across these On both sites I selected "Shelby GT" as the submodel for my car, and these came up. They even have a note saying they're for the Shelby GT model. Funny thing is, those definitely aren't the stock calipers from our cars. Shelby never changed the brakes so ours came with the same 2 piston calipers with plastic pistons from a stock GT; these are 4 piston calipers with steel pistons. Curious if anyone has ever tried them. Trying to upgrade to something better as the stock brakes really are pretty weak even on the street. Also want something that will at least be sufficient for short 20-30 minute track runs at driving events (not competitive racing). If I was competing I'd suck it up and splurge on a full big brake setup, but since I'm just doing DE's I just need something that will brake reasonably well, consistently, and not suddenly fail going into a turn (after upgrading to high temp brake fluid, better pads, SS lines, etc.) There's a lot of decent options for better rotors and pads, but calipers not so much. Thanks!!! * Reasons the big brake kits are off the table: - I have 18" Razor wheels I don't want to part with. I was originally planning to put a set of takeoff 4 piston brembos from a GT500 on the car, but even with the +24mm offset they won't quite clear the calipers (I tried test fitting the wheels on my 08 GT500) - 20" would solve all my problems, but I really don't want the extra rotational mass or the lower sidewall that comes with that. - Not racing competitively so it's hard to justify spending $3-6k or more on a big brake kit just for an occasional track weekend.
  3. So after some great track time in 2015, it seems I warped one of my front rotors on my '13 SS. I have the 14" Wilwood rotors on the front, using the BP-20 compound brake pads. I spoke with Wilwood sales rep and he told me the rotors that SAI put on my SS have been discontinued because people are going away from the zinc coated rotors. He gave me the part number for a replaceable rotor. Here are the new part numbers he gave me: Old front: 160-8396 and 160-8397 New front: 160-8398 and 160-8399 Old rear: 160-8400 and 160-8401 New rear: 160-8403 and 160-8403 The new rotors have a more pure type of iron and carbon, and are only slotted NOT drilled. Sales rep says they will build up more heat than the old parts, and will wear out the BP-20 pads more often, but is a better product and will last longer, less likely to warp than the slotted/drilled rotors. I ordered a set of the new front rotors from Summit Racing, cost of $264 each and some new pads, $100 for the front set. I will update the thread once I get them installed and tested out.
  4. I have a 2011 Shelby GT500 SVT/PP. I do not like the look (all the rotors and rear caliper) of the OEM brakes (Front Brembo ok!) and I’m looking to upgrade them. The brakes on this 2011 Shelby GT500 are: Four wheel power disc with four-channel anti-lock braking system (ABS), electronic brake force distribution (EBD) and traction control. * Front - Brembo 14-inch diameter vented discs, four-piston aluminum calipers. * Rear - 11.8-inch diameter vented discs, two-piston calipers. * Tires - Bridgestone Potenza RE960 P255/R35/20 * Rims - FOOSE 20” Legend SS rims all around. Ok, here goes… In reading all the posts and research I’ve done on my own – I see four (4) options (as price is not a factor). I’d like your feedback and your choice. Please choose 1, but especially please tell me why you made your choice. Performance Vs cost, Value Vs Performance etc. And if anyone has a better option – Please provide that too. ALL opinions are welcomed and if you have any personal experience with one of these options, I'd appreciate that feedback too. ***Option 1: Lowest Cost Shelby GT500 Four Piece Brake Rotor Upgrade Kit – Total Price: $1,279.00 http://www.shelbysto...7mk-2300-cw.htm Total Price: $1,279.00 ***Option 2: Medium Cost Shelby 14" Brembo Front Rotor Upgrade - Price: $716.67 http://www.shelbysto...-s7m-2300-c.htm Shelby 14" Rear Rotor Upgrade - Price: $661.12 http://www.shelbystore.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=Z28%2D2262019 Total Price: $1,377.79 ***Option 3: High Cost Shelby/ Wilwood Front 6-Piston Big Brake Kit - Price: $2,130.50 https://www.shelbyst...59-S5MK-2300-UF Shelby/ Wilwood Rear 4-Piston Big Brake Kit - Price: $2,031.89 https://www.shelbyst...59-S5MK-2300-UR Total Price: $4,162.39 ***Option 4: Most Cost Extreme+ Front Brake System for 2005-2012 Ford Mustang - Price: $3,395.00 http://baer.com/prod...tegory_id=15005 Extreme+ Rear Brake System for 2005-2012 Ford Mustang- Price: $3,595.00 http://baer.com/prod...tegory_id=15015 Total Price: $6,990.00
  5. Just finished replacing my front and rear brake pads last weekend on my 2011 GT500. When I replaced the caliper bolts on the rear brakes, I applied Loctite to keep them in place (based on my friends recommendation). The bolts were tightened to spec. After doing some research, I'm wondering if should have used anti-seize lube instead of Loctite on the bolts. Trying to figure out -- if using Loctite was not necessary, is having it on the bolts going to cause an issue down the road (other than making removal more difficult for the next pad/roter change? Just for clarification, I'm talking about the caliper bolt for the actual caliper assembly, not the caliper bracket. https://www.evernote...7e05f424c6a9fae THX Barry
  6. Hi Ladies and Gents, I have joined your club finally and your forum...this is the first GT500 (2013) that I have owned, but had 2 Boss 302s and 5 Mustang GTs before that. I love the power and engineering of this new machine...my only gripe so far is brakes squealing at 30 mph or less. Never had any of this on the prior 7 Mustangs. I searched on the Forum and hardly saw a mention of this, and find it hard to believe I am almost the only one with this issue. QUESTION: Any suggestions on what to do? Will it go away? I have tried washing the brakes and running in reverse and braking hard, to no avail. I hate to take vehicles into the dealer unless really necessary as they might screw something up. So I thought I would ask you experts first. Thanks in advance. Rodders in Houston
  7. Ok so 70k miles, still on stock brakes, I decided to change the pads and the rotors. The backs are done with no issue at all. On to the front...I was trying to remove the "Brake caliper anchor plate bolts," I completely stripped the head of the bolt... its nice a round now. Them I moved onto the guide pin bolts that hold the caliper on... and completely rounded one of those out. So I decided to say screw it and called it a day. I can get the bolts out, however I would like to have the correctly sized bolts on had to replace the rounded out ones. Does any one have the correct sizes for those to sets of bolts? Part numbers I believe are W710233 and 2001? Any info would be greatly appreciated.
  8. I am getting ready to flush and replace the brake fluid in the GT500, but I have several questions......... 1) I know from reading that most everyone has recommended moving to a higher temp brake fluid when you track day the car and I also know that Motul and ATE Superblue are some of the favorites. My question is: How do these brake fluids work with ABS systems and will they harm and/or damage any of the components? Ford recommends only using DOT 3 brake fluid (Motorcraft High Performance, of course). The "extra" 100 degrees of dry boiling point on the other fluids seems like a nice safety factor, but I do not want to have an ABS pump failure down the road because I used the wrong fluid. 2) What is the fluid capacity of the of the brake system? Do I need to have a quart of brake fluid, 2 quarts, or just a pint to flush the system? 3) Because the brakes and clutch share a common reservoir, should you bleed the clutch slave cylinder too? Mark
  9. I know most people in the forums love their Hawk and C-Max brake pads, but I was wondering if anybody out there in Team Shelbyland has tried the Performance Friction Z-Rated pads? I am slowly getting my (mostly street driven) car ready for a track day at Heartland Park as a warm up to the Ford/Team Shelby meet in Tulsa and I want to replace the pads. I don't want to be switching brake pads at the track, so I have looked at the Hawk HPS and HP Plus, EBC Yellowstuff and the Performance Friction Z-Rated. Opinions? Mark
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