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What is your two (2) letter state/provincial code or provincial code?

Found 12 results

  1. Hi Guys, New to the forum & new GT500 owner. Here's my story, have had a 65 fastback GT 4 speed car for close to 25 years, bought a new 08 GT 5 speed car 6 years ago & put 98k miles on it. Always wanted a Shelby so started looking at the 1st of this year. Favored the 08-09's, so that was my target years. Live in the Upstate of SC, found an 09 GT500 in Metro Atlanta(2-1/2 hours away) at a Ford dealership(nameless for now). Cleaned up the 08 and drove it to Atlanta on Saturday Feb. 22nd. Shelby had 36,004 miles on the odo and was literally flawless on the paint, body, & interior. All stock with the exception of Magnaflow axlebacks & what I later found out were 3" Magnaflow mid-pipes. It did have stick on rear glass abs louvers, quarter glass louvers, and even stick on hood pins!(all removed post haste) Test drive was great, we worked out a deal & I traded the 08 & brought home my 1st Shelby. I commute about 25 miles one way each day(90% Interstate, I-85) and this past Wednesday(4-1/2 weeks of ownership) on the way home was in 6th gear doing about 70 MPH, gave it some throttle and it slipped. Got to my exit, shifted from 1st to 2nd & it really slipped. Got it in my garage and the smell of burnt clutch was overwhelming. I will mention at this point that the Shelby was a Ford Certified Used Car & that I purchased an extended 2 year, 36k mile bumper to bumper Ford warranty(not a 3rd party warranty company) when I bought the car. Called my local Ford dealer Thursday(3/27) and they said bring it in. I did at 9AM & they said they would advise me when they knew something. I did discuss the TSB with the service agent when I dropped it off but he kind of blew it off saying that it would not cause slippage of the clutch. Did not hear back all day so I called at 4PM & they said the tranny had to be pulled & they would call me in the morning, & they would work with me to get the issue resolved. Went to the dealership Friday morning at 10AM, they let me go into the garage. My Shelby was up on the rack and let me tell you it made me sick to see my dream cars tranny on the shop floor! Tech was super nice, was a 93 Cobra owner and very informative. He showed me the clutch and it was burnt to a crisp and the flywheel was one big hotspot. Here is where it starts to get strange. He said the clutch was not an 09 clutch, it was a 2011 style. At this point for everyone's protection I am just going to state that the clutch had been changed in Sep. 2013(6 months ago) at a Ford dealer in GA(not the one I purchased from) when the car had 35,500k miles!(remember it had 36,004 when I bought it 5 weeks ago today) He said they would do everything they could to get it repaired under warranty and would let me know when Ford gave them a decision. The service rep called about 1PM and said that Ford had responded back that the clutch was not covered and that the repair would cost me $3800 out of pocket and that was putting back the original 09 problematic clutch! I argued that the car was Ford Certified & had the extended warranty. He responded that they said it was normal wear! I also reminded him that I had put 98k on my 08 GT and the clutch in it was as good as the day I bought it. Didn't matter, he suggested I call Ford Customer Service or the dealer I brought it from. I called the dealer in GA I bought the car from next & left a message for the manager to call. At about 4PM the used car manager called back, he was helpful & sympathetic. I told him about the burnt clutch with now only 1500 miles on it. He said they would get resolved & he was calling the dealer that installed the clutch and would get back to me. Of course it being Friday afternoon I have not heard back from him yet. So now my Shelby is figuratively and literally up in the air. Should I call Ford Customer Service? Wait on the dealer in GA? Push for another 2012 Ford clutch? Get an aftermarket clutch & see if my local dealer will install and try to get Ford or the purchasing dealer to cover the labor? Not sure which way to turn. I have read Grabber's posts on his experiences(excellent info, btw) but have not run into my particular situation. Hoping someone who has been there can give me some direction. Sorry for the long 1st post! Also if anyone can run an Oasis report the VIN # is 1ZVHT88S895119314. It might help if I go the FCSS route. Thanks, Joel S.
  2. Shelby_1

    Damn clutch!

    I have a 2008 GT500 which I purchased new. I am on my 5th clutch and it is slipping. First clutch replaced at 12 k mi, 2nd at 27k mi, 3rd at 66k mi and the 4th at 71k mi. The Ford dealer replaced 2 OEM clutches and 1 Shelby Performance Parst twin disc Clutch (made by Ace clutches). When that $1700 clutch went, I took it to a very reputable mustang shop (google Devil's Reject 2000 HP Shelby). They replaced the clutch with the same Shelby PP clutch and I thought my clutch troubles were gone! BOY was I wrong! Now at 76k mi, the clutch is slipping. OH SH_ _! Mustang shop owner tells me it is the transmission synchronizers that are bad. Not sure what a transmission rebuild will cost, but I am sure I don't want to pay for it! The car is my daily driver, I have never taken it to the track or drag strip, and I don' t ride the clutch. I have driven over 500k miles on standard trans cars and had never replaced a clutch before this car. I am young at heart, but almost 60 chronologically. I need to depend on this car and I don't abuse it. When the car is running good, I love it!! But it has become unreliable. I have had 3 breakdowns on the road this year, 1 clutch related and 2 alternator related. 3 tows by AAA. Has anybody had this many clutch problems? I am thinking lemon law, but I think the timeframe has expired. Any thoughts appreciated. Dejected in Delaware.
  3. I have a 2008 GT 500, 21Kmiles on it. Very little city driving. The clutch is slipping in 3-6 gears, when I provide rapid acceleration on the gas. It can be visually seen on the tac and then also you can feel the engine rev, car start to accelerate, engine rev, and accelerate again. Has others had the same problem? I am looking at a clutch replacement, along with pilot bearing, slave cylinder, and potentially flywheel. If you had the issue, did you utilize OEM equipment? Or 3rd party such as Summit Racing? Thanks Strider
  4. Hey all... I was wondering if someone could help me out with something I'm experiencing. Im pretty sure its the clutch but I thought I would have other symptoms if that was the case. Ive noticed that if I'm in gears 4,5 or 6 and I get on the gas at a low RPM the engine RPM and Boost revs up, the car doesn't go anywhere and then all of a sudden it catches and takes off. It feels just like I'm spinning the tires but I know I'm not. No problems at all with gears 1,2 and 3. I can pull on them as hard as I want and nothing feels like its slipping. The clutch pedal itself feels fine and I'm not smelling anything either. Anyone got any ideas before I go spend $1200 and put a clutch in? She's a 2010 Shelby with the 2.5" Pulley and tune and 37,000 miles on the whole car. Thanks in advance.
  5. Fellow GT500 enthusiasts, I am getting the clutch replaced on my 08 GT500. The shop I was recommended is suggesting a 2013/14 OE clutch. I searched quite a bit, but could not see anyone else having done this. Anyone have any feedback regarding this? Thanks.
  6. My 2008 gt500 just arrived today. And man is it a dream come true. But my question: the clutch feels light, a good light though. I've felt a gt500 before and it felt stuff and I've also heared they're stiff. Do you honk the previous owner did some type of upgrade? Thanks
  7. Good morning. The clutch on my '07 GT500 started slipping the other day so it looks as though it's time for a replacement. There are a lot of options out there, so I was hoping some of you guys who have been through this might be able to tell me what you've found to be a good replacement. Any input would be greatly appreciated.
  8. The Issue: Normal shifting only. Not speed or no lift. Just shifting smoothly, but at high rpms. Shifting at high rpms, between 4,500 and redline, the clutch will stick to the floor / lose its return force, just enough to almost lock you out of any upward gear changes. When shifting, it feels like you just might not get the next gear. This happens on the 1-2 shift, 2-3 shift, and 3-4 shift. Can't check the 4-5 shift, because I don't really want to be going that fast anyway. I don't get any grinding of gears during the gear change, but when the rpms are high, it feels like I'm almost out of clutch fluid, and shifting becomes a guessing game. It feels to me through my left foot that there is too much "spinning force" or some kind of "suction", yes these are non-engineering terms, created by the high rpms that is keeping things from separating between the clutch pressure plate and friction disk. The clutch pedal just becomes really mushy and almost non-functional at the 4,500 to redline area on the tach. At lower RPMs, and in traffic, the clutch pedal, and transmission function 100% fine. I have 7 months on the powertrain warranty, and this car has been BABIED since day one. No powershifting, no drag racing. The fact that the warranty is ending, has motivated me to drive the car harder than I have in the past to see what could be wrong with it. In fact, this problem was hard to discover, and I have only just noticed it, because you really can't test this anywhere except on the highway. You are doing well over 120+ to bang out all those gears changes. Even a full bore 2-3 shift at redline is around 80mph! I am taking it to the dealer for a check, but I really expect nothing from them. In fact I don't want them to test it due to the speeds involved, and the thought of a tech romping on the car does not sit well with me. It seems like this problem will just be brushed under the rug. However, I cannot own a car that can't be driven within factory power levels. Yes I have a pulley, but come on, 14psi vs 9psi on this car is not straining it in the least. Basically, I am at the breaking point. I won't bore you with the other warranty claims I had to deal with, but this really is the last straw. The warranty is ending, and so is my patience. Endless searching of forums, has not helped, and I joined to specifically ask for help here with this issue. Solutions? I have read about possibly the clutch line being the problem. Upgrading seemed to help some cars, but not others. It also seems like the 2010s had the best luck with clutch pedal feel, and non-exploding clutches. So how common is a sticky clutch pedal on the 2010s exclusively? I was disappointed to find out that the 2010s didn't have the clutch assist spring. I was hoping to yank that out, and be done with it. It almost feels like the main return spring, on the clutch pedal assembly, is just not strong enough at high rpms to pull the clutch back fast enough. I feel lucky not to have any grinding issues, but not being able to rev this car out, and shift just disappoints me, and my opinion of what I thought was Ford's flagship model is diminishing. How can they not even design something so simple as a manual hydraulic CLUTCH system? We aren't talking the latest twin paddle flapper design here, either! I'm really interested in hearing what can be done.
  9. I have read on a few different forums that the .180 shim that is included in the kit to go behind the slave cylinder is not needed. We installed the transmission back in last night, but I figured I would call SPEC today and ask. They told me the shim is needed on the 2012....is this true? There were no directions with the clutch, but I fear I need to take the tranny back out to install. Any thoughts? Anyone with experience on this? Thanks in advance, Jim
  10. 2007 GT500 factory clutch was slipping. Had a new Spec Super Twin clutch installed. Now I have a very unfortunate vibration on deceleration. It seems to be worse at higher speeds. Took the car back to the install technician and he told me it's normal for that clutch. He called it torque down. I'm not buying the story. Is there anyone out there with a Super Twin clutch with the same issues or is the story a load of bunk? The vibration is not constant and rarely happens on acceleration. In 6th at around 2000rpm, it seems smooth. If I shift down to 5th and decelerate, the whole car shakes. If I depress the clutch pedal, it all goes away. Look forward to hearing from you guys and gals. soniam
  11. Hey guys, this week for some strange reason I decided to go ape nuts with money. Recently purchased bassani headers(now I have full bassani 3 inch o/r xpipe), a tvs blower 2.3, driveshaft, chrome moly k member, and a dynotech driveshaft( too lazy to wait two weeks for the carbon fiber one to be made). Now I just need to know what clutch and injectors I should get? And if possible, maybe a discount code of some sort. Waiting until I have everything before the install so I could do it all at once. Thanks, Beau'
  12. I recently sold my muscle car and bought a 2008 gt500 with 5k miles. the only issue I have is there seems to be no gradual engagment of the clutch. I let it out about 1/3 to 1/2 and it immediately grabs. I have to rev it a little to it does not stall. I have not driven a clutch in many years, but my mustang friends made the same comments. Any suggestions or similar issues? thanks
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