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#1 Ok, so this issue has perplexed me for over 3 years now. I picked up a rebuilt / salvage title 07 GT500 back in 2015. Everything is near perfect however when I wholeshot the car my guages, dash lights, ABS, and stereo power cycle. It's quite distracting and upsetting when it happens as it's usually when I'm trying to enjoy the power this beast has. I've taken it to the local speed shop who wants a ton of money to analyze the electronics and Dyno the car.. So I've physically checked the ground connections which seem ok (no multimeter testing though). considering it's an RPM triggered event I'm suspecting that it ISN'T a ground issue. I've disengage the ABS because when the power cycles it instantly turns back on the ABS creating problems. My suspicion is that the person who rebuilt the GT500 cheaped out on a replacement alternator and either installed a junk GT alternator (not GT500) or perhaps a defective one that maybe sends a surge at 2000 RPM. I just can't think of anything else that involves electronics and would be 2000 rpm sensitive. I sure would appreciate if an expert from this forum could assist as I'm completely lost. 3 years with the car and I can't take it over 2000 without fearing the unknown... Thank you in advance whoever you are who will be taking time out of your day to help me. Carl
Was setting up switched 12v DC power for a cloud-linked Escort 360 Max Radar Detector and switched 12v DC power for a driving camera. Had a hard time locating a diagram for the 2016 Shelby GT350 passenger interior fuse panel but found one here http://diagrams.hissind.com which requires no cost registration. The main fuse panel in on the passenger fender well inside the engine compartment forward of the battery area, not used for these connections. The interior fuse panel is in a particularly difficult to see completely/directly, and also difficult reach individual fuses physically unless you're a contortion artist. you can use your smart phone to take a photo of the to see what you're dealing with. Also a pair of fine needle-nose pliers will be needed to pull the selected mini/micro/micro 2 fuse(s). Be careful - it's easy to drop a fuse in the process of pulling it out, and there are a lot of open/unused fuse slots. Recommend taking a photo or used the attached PDF doc for reference. It's a very cramped, uncomfortable, inconvenient work area. Note - the molded-in position numbers read upside down as mounted in the vehicle. The interior fuse panel is low forward on the outer bulkhead in the passenger foot well area. It's a triangular shaped black plastic pull out panel. If you have floor mats, remove them. A cool (temperature) LED flood light is nice for lighting up this dark area. The front edge has spring retaining clips, the rear edge (towards passenger) has slide up for release, slide down for reinstall plastic retainer tabs. *Caution* do NOT just jerk the panel outwards - you'll damage/break the rear plastic tabs. Making the required connections: Used the supplied power cord for the driving camera tapped into the Position 23, 10 amp fuse. Used a Micro 2 blade fuse parallel tap (see photo) with 5 amp for the camera, retaining the original 10 amp for the host circuit. You can source this fuse tap at your local auto parts store or via Amazon. Tapped the radar detector power from a switched 12v DC pin and ground in the back of rearview mirror power multi-connector plug. Used a Mirror tap cord with a RJ-11 connector at the detector end - info at this link https://www.mirrortap.com/ Unfortunately the forum attachment limits won't allow the 300 kb PDF attachment I made, so you'll have to go to the site above http://diagrams.hissind.com/2016-mustang-passenger-compartment-fuse-panel-diagram/ to see the fuse tables. I've attached a (fair not great) photo of an actual 2016 GT350 interior fuse panel panel and the fuse tap we used. I'd assume the fuse panel would be the same for the USA 2015-2018 GT350's, I believe EU Mustangs have a different fuse panel diagram. Hope you all find this info useful. Even though this is a straight-forward/simple job, it took a while to pull this info and the parts together. We post a lot to vehicle tech forums - have Jeeps, 4xtrucks, trailers, classic cars, RV, 4xTLB, even an AWD Subaru Outback, and old and new GT350's aside, love diesel powered equipment.
Been gone 16 days from home, reminded my son to start GT 500 at least a couple of time while gone because I let it sit a couple of weeks a few weeks ago and had to jump start it. It's on it's second battery since 8/2008 and I really expected this one to last longer. Got home last night and put the charger on it and went to bed. Tried it this morning and it's DEAD, like so dead the interior lights and dinger won't even work. I tried the charger again on a quick charge and about an hour later got lights and dinger, but no radio, then it started making a really strange sound--from what seemed to be in the rear of the car--a kind of clicking & humming sound, not unlike the clickclickclick it makes when you turn the key and there's not enough juice to turn it over. Anyway, after a few seconds of this weird noise, the charger kicks off, like it's been surged or something. I'm really freaked out now, so I disconnect the battery from the car and put the charger back on--for a slow overnight charge. I've never heard this kind of noise from a car before and wondering if a battery that is this dead would cause it? Also, never had a battery charger to kick off like that before. If it's not charged in the morning, the battery comes off and goes to the dealer....... Any thoughts? Ideas? Thanks in advance! BTW one of my "projects" with my son while on vacation was to replace the battery in his 06 GT.........