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      ABOUT TEAM SHELBY   01/01/2007

          Member Benefits:   First, there's the Team Shelby swag. No other club packs your membership kit with more than Team Shelby! Whether you are a renewing member or new to the “family” of Shelby enthusiast worldwide, our goal is to help you enjoy a high-octane lifestyle!   From a Unique Membership Card, Shelby Annual Magazine, Team Shelby Hat, Collector Coin, Team Shelby T-Shirt, Windshield Cling, Team Shelby License Plate Frame, Lapel Pin and Magnet, the contents of your Team Shelby Membership Kit more than pay for your membership alone!   In addition, your membership includes:   Exclusive Access to Team Shelby Member Forums.   10% discounts at Carroll Shelby's Stores in Las Vegas and Los Angeles.   Driving Experiences.   Invitations to Exclusive Team Shelby Member Events.   Insider information from Shelby American.   Affiliate Partner Discounts.   Updated February 16, 2017. Team Shelby Club 2018 Team Shelby Membership Kit Please note that membership contents are subject to change.   Team Shelby was designed and engineered by real enthusiasts inside and out of Shelby.   Team Shelby was originally formed in 2008 by Carroll Shelby. He wanted to create a club for people to truly enjoy their cars. He knew the world had changed, and he wanted his companies to meet the needs of the new generation of Shelby owners. His vision was to knit together those people with the owners of early Shelby's and give everyone fun new ways to experience their high performance vehicles.   Mr. Shelby imagined a place where owners could talk about their latest conquests at the track, swap stories, share photos and learn new ways to hot rod their cars! He wanted to link all of the enthusiasts into one "dream garage"... thus, Team Shelby was born!   Team Shelby has many free, open access forums, news sections and member only areas dedicated to the community.   In addition, Team Shelby has a full series of events for 2018, which include VIP Experiences, track days, National & Regional gatherings, cruises, car shows and more! Ownership of a Shelby is not required to be a member. The club is dedicated to serving all Shelby enthusiasts past and present including those that own cars built in the 1960's and Shelby Dodges too! Carroll Shelby (Team Shelby Member #001) said: "We built Team Shelby for anyone who is passionate about Shelby cars! We’ll have a blast and we'll do it the Shelby way!   Yearly Membership Rates   U.S. $49.99 | Canada & Mexico $59.99 | E.U., others $65.99   Join the Team Shelby Club   click here to choose a Team Shelby Club subscription package.   Membership Kit Arrival   Your Team Shelby Club membership kit and I.D.card will generally arrive within 6-8 weeks.   Need Help?   Email Brianna:  e-mail her here.
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      Having Problems Logging In To Team Shelby ?   02/12/2018

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hey guys i washed my car today and noticed that around the hood pins the paint was bubbling, and i heard it was from the steel screw goin in the aluminum hood.. so it goin in next week to get it fixed and to see if its covered by warranty. i was wondering what they have to do to get it fixed ? do they sand the whole hood and repaint it or is it a quick fix? and also wondering since its in there should i just make them put the billet hood pins on there since its already in the shop?

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I had the same problem. They had to strip, repaint and restripe the entire hood. It was taken care of by Ford and Shelby under warranty.

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hey guys i washed my car today and noticed that around the hood pins the paint was bubbling, and i heard it was from the steel screw goin in the aluminum hood.. so it goin in next week to get it fixed and to see if its covered by warranty. i was wondering what they have to do to get it fixed ? do they sand the whole hood and repaint it or is it a quick fix? and also wondering since its in there should i just make them put the billet hood pins on there since its already in the shop?

Was it only around the outside of the plate or under also? That's scary.

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I had the same problem. They had to strip, repaint and restripe the entire hood. It was taken care of by Ford and Shelby under warranty.

 

Did they give you new aluminum screws to replace the old ones, or did you have to hunt them down yourself?

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Hi I am into boats and salt water and I have also fabricated large scale outdoor sculpture for municipalities out of various metals. I can tell you that dissimilar metals in contact with one another will corrode over time. The less noble metal will corrode away. There are entire books written on this topic.

 

I am not an expert, but in my experience the only way to keep this from reoccuring is to use the billet (aluminum) pins and plates and aluminum screws.

 

I believe that the steel screws going into the aluminum hood is causing the corrosion.

 

I may be wrong but this is what I know and why I think that. Google galvanic corrosion for more info.

 

edit for clarity.

Edited by mccoystudio

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We actually replaced the escutcheon with the Shelby model that they used on the '08 models. I will look and see what the scews were made of.

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I have not checked under my plates...but I do park within 20 feet of salt water on a regular basis. I live near alot of salt air and water and I park at a marina often. Mine has not bubbled out yet, but it is a concern for me. I like the 07 set-up aesthetically but may switch if I have to.

 

I use a product called Corrosion X on the metals on my boat down below, through hulls, bolts, shafts and rudder arms. Lots of big bronze parts. And I use it on the chassis of my older vehicles to prevent rust, it works. Obviously it is not for a hood, but I may put it on my rear end on the SGT unless I decide to paint the rear end at some point.

 

On boats you have bronze props and stainless prop shafts immersed in salt water, making effectivly a battery which you can measure the voltage, but you also have zincs (chunks of zinc bolted to boat and grounded to dc eletrical system) which erode away, as zinc is the less noble metal. The zincs are sacrificial anodes.

 

No salt water immersion and all aluminium on the hood and hardware and the problem should go away, IMO

 

As a side note there are obviously many grades of various alloys, I have found that I try not to use imported metal in my work. There is a difference when you work with it.

 

Rust/corrosion it never ends.

 

Keep us posted.

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i only see it around the plate, but i havent lifted the plate to see under it... it goes in tomarrow and ill tell yall what they say..

and mbadgley thx for the help..

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hey guys i washed my car today and noticed that around the hood pins the paint was bubbling, and i heard it was from the steel screw goin in the aluminum hood.. so it goin in next week to get it fixed and to see if its covered by warranty. i was wondering what they have to do to get it fixed ? do they sand the whole hood and repaint it or is it a quick fix? and also wondering since its in there should i just make them put the billet hood pins on there since its already in the shop?

 

I have a question. Have you had a chance to pull off a hood pin plate? I pulled off one of my hood pin plates and found some type of gasket, possibly plastic, separating the steel from the hood. I wonder if all of the cars (07) had this gasket. The screws definitely are stainless. Thanks, Tom

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I too have gaskets between plate and hood, I replaced the cheap SAI plate with concours quality plate from Tony Branda, alos when I had off waxed the entire hood pin area to include under the hood, waxed the screws palre pins everything, BUT my car is not a daily driver and never sees rain and is stoed under top grade cover.

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I have a question. Have you had a chance to pull off a hood pin plate? I pulled off one of my hood pin plates and found some type of gasket, possibly plastic, separating the steel from the hood. I wonder if all of the cars (07) had this gasket. The screws definitely are stainless. Thanks, Tom

 

Yes, it's rubber, and they all have it...or should.

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I too have gaskets between plate and hood, I replaced the cheap SAI plate with concours quality plate from Tony Branda, alos when I had off waxed the entire hood pin area to include under the hood, waxed the screws palre pins everything, BUT my car is not a daily driver and never sees rain and is stoed under top grade cover.

 

If and if, it is caused by galvanic corrosion, which is what I am thinking, the wax will not help. It is caused by the two dissimilar metals in contact with one another.

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Just had mine done as well. Repaint, Restrip, etc... 3 weeks later got it out of the shop. Still has some minor issues on the new scoop rivets not being set all the way down. Currently working with the dealer to resolve the issue.

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So there's no fix yet being offered by SAI on the hood pin bubbling issue? They're not re-issuing new hood pins made of aluminum or with aluminum screws? I have the same paint bubbling issue, but I don't want to go through the trouble of having it sanded and re-painted, only to have the same issue in 6 months when they put the same kind of hood pins back in. Any ideas?

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I do not know for a fact that is whats happening, but my experience dictates its the two different metals.

 

Stainless Screws, Aluminum hood, corroding aluminum due to dissimilar metals...bubbled paint.

 

This is just my thought.

 

My car does not have the issue.

 

If I did I would install the aluminum plates and pins with aluminum screws reguardless of what they offered to replace them with.

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The hood pins, screws, plate and all flew off my car at speed on the highway one day. They were replaced under the warranty, but if it happens again, i am going to the GT-H pins or another type, especially if others are having trouble too!

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The hood pins, screws, plate and all flew off my car at speed on the highway one day. They were replaced under the warranty, but if it happens again, i am going to the GT-H pins or another type, especially if others are having trouble too!

 

 

:headscratch: what? how the he!! could that happen did the pin fail? but even if that happend i cant see the whole set up just seperating from the hood.

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The hood pins, screws, plate and all flew off my car at speed on the highway one day. They were replaced under the warranty, but if it happens again, i am going to the GT-H pins or another type, especially if others are having trouble too!

 

Both of them :headscratch:

 

Jim

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:headscratch: what? how the he!! could that happen did the pin fail? but even if that happend i cant see the whole set up just seperating from the hood.

 

 

+1 This would have to be THREE failures. First all four screws would have to come loose or be ripped out, second the pin and bolt would need to fail and even if it did can it pull up and out of the hood, and three the lanyard would have to detach otherwise the pin would be flapping around the front grill. I'm just trying to visualize all the parts and how they interact and understand how you could have the entire setup fly off? I'd be interested in hearing more because that's never been brought up, that I am aware of, as an issue.

Edited by JeffIsHereToo

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Does anyone know where to buy aluminum screws that fit? I've looked locally (including boat shops) and online and can't find any. I'm not sure of the size but they look like #6 and maybe 3/8 inch.

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hey guys i washed my car today and noticed that around the hood pins the paint was bubbling, and i heard it was from the steel screw goin in the aluminum hood.. so it goin in next week to get it fixed and to see if its covered by warranty. i was wondering what they have to do to get it fixed ? do they sand the whole hood and repaint it or is it a quick fix? and also wondering since its in there should i just make them put the billet hood pins on there since its already in the shop?

I had the same problem with mine. The dealership had to replace the whole hood and new hood scoop and repaint and restripe both of them. instead of using screws the second time around they rivited the hood pins to the hood looks 100 times cooler. It takes about two months to get it fixed and all the paperwork straighted out between ford and shelby.

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I had the same problem with mine. The dealership had to replace the whole hood and new hood scoop and repaint and restripe both of them. instead of using screws the second time around they rivited the hood pins to the hood looks 100 times cooler. It takes about two months to get it fixed and all the paperwork straighted out between ford and shelby.

 

 

Rivited hood pins?? Pics? :hyper2:

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okay, they totally have me worried.. they said they're going to sand half of my hood and paint only the half with the bubbles so they dont have to restripe it... do yall think the paint is going to match the other side?? i guess if it doesnt then they'll sand the whole thing and waste the half they just painted.. hey diesel where did u go for the rivited hood pins, i live near dallas so maybe i can just go to ur dealership.. :-)

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okay, they totally have me worried.. they said they're going to sand half of my hood and paint only the half with the bubbles so they dont have to restripe it... do yall think the paint is going to match the other side?? i guess if it doesnt then they'll sand the whole thing and waste the half they just painted.. hey diesel where did u go for the rivited hood pins, i live near dallas so maybe i can just go to ur dealership.. :-)

 

 

What did they do and how did it come out?

 

Chuck

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I just got the word from my dealer that Ford/Shelby approved my claim for new hood pins (rusty and not clipping closed consistently) and paint bubbling around the screws in the hood. They added a new hood scoop and stripes (I didn't as for that since my scoop is still fine)! I asked to have it repaired at a very good body shop that is used by high end car dealers and I've had very good experience with them in the past on my wife's rear-ended Lexus RX330.

 

So, am looking forward to a new, rust free and bubble free, hood!

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hey guys i washed my car today and noticed that around the hood pins the paint was bubbling, and i heard it was from the steel screw goin in the aluminum hood.. so it goin in next week to get it fixed and to see if its covered by warranty. i was wondering what they have to do to get it fixed ? do they sand the whole hood and repaint it or is it a quick fix? and also wondering since its in there should i just make them put the billet hood pins on there since its already in the shop?

 

 

I am pi$$ed! I just had my hood scoop and stripes replaced which took a week, had to drive 4 hours to a body shop to get it done right and also pay for a rental car for a week. TODAY I just noticed, that there is a bubble on the edge of the driver's hood pin plate. I take the plates off and sure enough there is considerable bubbling under the driver's side plate, but none on the passenger's side.

 

I think the main problem is Shelby didn't prime or paint the holes after they drilled the hood. Water is getting under the paint through the edges at the holes. This is really amateurish!

 

Well, I've had it with this car. I'm am NOT going to go through having the hood repainted and all the crap with the stripes and scoop. I just can't afford it and there is no shop in town that can redo the scoop and stripes with confidence.

 

Since all of this, except for the very edge of the plate, is covered, I'm going to sand the bubble areas using a Dremel tool, prime all the holes and surface (inside and out), brush touch up with base black coat and then brush clear coat. I also just ordered the billet Shelby hood pins which may help in the future.

 

The main thing to to arrest the bubbling. I'm not worried about how the hood looks under the hood pins plates because even before the bubbling it looked pretty rough. Shelby didn't even bother to remove the aluminum shavings from drilling the holes before putting the plates on.

 

The only problems I've had with this car have been Shelby stuff. The Ford stuff is all good:

 

1) "Y" on trunk was ready to fall off so I glued it on. I also bought another set of letters just in case one falls off and I loose it.

2) Hood pin plates were so cheesy that I bought new ones from Tony Branda. I also bought another set of pins just in case these fail.

3) 2 Hood scoops and one set of hood stripes.

4) I had to buy a spare tire and jack 'cause I don't like being stranded and don't like having the idea of a tow truck messing up the front fascia trying to get it loaded.

 

Just when I was so happy with my hood scoop repair.............................

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I noticed I have the same thing occuring. I ordered new billet hood pins and when I was looking so see if the screw holes lined up I noticed the bubbling paint. Our SGT goes in for the hood scoop replacement next Tuesday and I have already notified the body shop there is an issue with the paint. I'm figuring it will all be handled at the same time.

 

As for the cause, mccoystudio is exactly correct that it's galvanic corrosion from dissimilar metals. The metal screws are stainless and in time will react with the aluminum. This is always an issue on painted aluminum boats. I'm not sure that an aluminum screw will work well since aluminum is fairly soft and you'll twist the head right off when you tighten it. The rivet idea is a good one. I work for an aluminum boat manufacturer in my spare time and only stainless fasteners are used. We try and pre-drill and pre-mount as much as possible prior to the hull going to paint but over time there will be issues. Best would be to get rid of the hood pins altogether so there are no penetrations.

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I noticed I have the same thing occuring. I ordered new billet hood pins and when I was looking so see if the screw holes lined up I noticed the bubbling paint. Our SGT goes in for the hood scoop replacement next Tuesday and I have already notified the body shop there is an issue with the paint. I'm figuring it will all be handled at the same time.

 

As for the cause, mccoystudio is exactly correct that it's galvanic corrosion from dissimilar metals. The metal screws are stainless and in time will react with the aluminum. This is always an issue on painted aluminum boats. I'm not sure that an aluminum screw will work well since aluminum is fairly soft and you'll twist the head right off when you tighten it. The rivet idea is a good one. I work for an aluminum boat manufacturer in my spare time and only stainless fasteners are used. We try and pre-drill and pre-mount as much as possible prior to the hull going to paint but over time there will be issues. Best would be to get rid of the hood pins altogether so there are no penetrations.

 

I work for a marine electronics manufacturing company and we find that stainless "through bolt" hardware in an aluminum hole that has been Alodined, primed and painted holds up pretty well. For threaded holes we use a stainless insert but Alodine the threaded hole before the insert is installed. However, it still can be a problem.

 

I'm going to take an "Alodine" brush/pen we use for touch-ups at the plant with me and treat the bare aluminum edges of the holes, etc. to a little of it before I prime and paint. That's gonna be the best I can do and it will probably be more protection than a paint shop will do.

Edited by blueshawk

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Does anyone know where to buy aluminum screws that fit? I've looked locally (including boat shops) and online and can't find any. I'm not sure of the size but they look like #6 and maybe 3/8 inch.

 

I found aluminum screws on-line at http://www.mcfeelys.com. They come in a box of 100 for like $9, maybe share with others. Should take care of the corrosion issue with the aluminum hood. Let me know what you think. Later.....

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