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I forgot to mention that the "Y" in my SHELBY trunk lettering fell off last weekend, while I was washing my car. :doh:

 

My "Y" did that not long after I got my 2007 SGT. I bought some 3M Emblem Adhesive and it's been solid ever since. I keep checking the other letters and they have been good. I also bought another set of letters just in case I lose one. Going out with one of the letters missing is like having a big "zit" in the middle of your forehead! :hysterical:

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I forgot to mention that the "Y" in my SHELBY trunk lettering fell off last weekend, while I was washing my car. :doh:

 

Yeah...that's been an issue since day one! I'm REALLY surprised that by the 08's this wasn't resolved but regardless I always wash around the letters carefully by hand and a small cloth careful not to catch a corner etc.

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Interesting that you have that corrosion in CA, I just looked at a used 2007 on the local Ford dealers lot with about 10K miles. The grille, hood pins, grille emblem looked terrible from corrosion. The hood pin area also had visible bubbling on the hood paint. The car could have been used in either one or two MI winters. Really looked bad. The scoop was warped really bad, worse than mine.

 

I also forgot, the SHELBY letters on the deck lid were corroded too

 

 

WOW! I'm in Chicago with 14K miles and none of this, I do have a faded tri-bar pony, but other than that wow!

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Yeah...that's been an issue since day one! I'm REALLY surprised that by the 08's this wasn't resolved but regardless I always wash around the letters carefully by hand and a small cloth careful not to catch a corner etc.

I've always been super careful washing my SGT. I seriously just touched the letter and it plopped onto the ground! I was beside myself. I did the same thing mentioned above with the 3M, but I'd really like to get it replaced. The 3M that I used is a bit thicker than the adhesive tape from Shelby and sticks out a little more. I'm sure no one would notice, but it looks painfully obvious to me anyway.

 

WOW! I'm in Chicago with 14K miles and none of this, I do have a faded tri-bar pony, but other than that wow!

I'm in California and I have all of that! My scoop, stripes, and grill are especially painful to look at. I can't WAIT to get this stuff taken care of.

 

Ken

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WOW! I'm in Chicago with 14K miles and none of this, I do have a faded tri-bar pony, but other than that wow!

 

I'm gonna touch-up my pony and then clear coat it to keep it looking good.

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some of the Y's have three protuding metal piecesin each corner they were supposed to be pulled and replaced during production the little bumps are not allowing the adheasive to make full contact with the trunk.. you can grind or file them then reapply using 3m tape.

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some of the Y's have three protuding metal piecesin each corner they were supposed to be pulled and replaced during production the little bumps are not allowing the adheasive to make full contact with the trunk.. you can grind or file them then reapply using 3m tape.

Thanks for the heads up. The 'Y' on my trunk definitely does have 3 protruding pieces where it looked like pins once were.

 

Ken

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Has anyone considered coating the threads of the stainless screws with a teflon paste or tape? I'm not an authority on any of this but I was under the impression that not only will the teflon help create a sold seal but will also help prevent corrosion.

 

I've only had my 08SGT0343 for a month but have rust on the lanyards but no signs of corrosion on the pins or hood. However I did coat the holes in the hood with a clear and used some locktight on the screws (a couple of the screws had walked themselves loose). I thought it couldn't hurt and may help provide a barrier between the stainless and the aluminum.

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Has anyone considered coating the threads of the stainless screws with a teflon paste or tape? I'm not an authority on any of this but I was under the impression that not only will the teflon help create a sold seal but will also help prevent corrosion.

 

I've only had my 08SGT0343 for a month but have rust on the lanyards but no signs of corrosion on the pins or hood. However I did coat the holes in the hood with a clear and used some locktight on the screws (a couple of the screws had walked themselves loose). I thought it couldn't hurt and may help provide a barrier between the stainless and the aluminum.

 

 

I thought about that too, not a bad idea.

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Well now you guys are scaring me. I'm a first time poster. I just bought 08GT0096 (Grabber Orange, silver stripes) last month and I have less than 1000 miles on it so far. I am in Southern California and the car has to be outside, but I do have a Noah car cover on it and three coats of wax. I am not sure about the history of the car before I bought it, but I assume it probably sat outside on the dealers lot for almost 2 years before I bought it. I am not very happy with the state of the vinyl. It does have some pits and deposits, but I assumed I could clean all that up as soon as I get some time to thoroughly clean the car. And the hood pin plates are all scratched up, so I intend to remove them and replace them with the billet pins. I am also having problems with the circular clips that connect to the pins. They have a problem staying in the holes. I did remove them and bent them tighter and they seems to stay in better now. But now I am afraid to remove the plates and look underneath, fearing what I Will find. So far, the surrounding paint looks fine. What really have rusted are the nuts that hold the pin bolts down to the chassis.

So far, after reading this series of posts, I feel like I need and extra set of SHELBY letters, new Hood Pin assemblies.

 

Mark

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Well now you guys are scaring me. I'm a first time poster. I just bought 08GT0096 (Grabber Orange, silver stripes) last month and I have less than 1000 miles on it so far. I am in Southern California and the car has to be outside, but I do have a Noah car cover on it and three coats of wax. I am not sure about the history of the car before I bought it, but I assume it probably sat outside on the dealers lot for almost 2 years before I bought it. I am not very happy with the state of the vinyl. It does have some pits and deposits, but I assumed I could clean all that up as soon as I get some time to thoroughly clean the car. And the hood pin plates are all scratched up, so I intend to remove them and replace them with the billet pins. I am also having problems with the circular clips that connect to the pins. They have a problem staying in the holes. I did remove them and bent them tighter and they seems to stay in better now. But now I am afraid to remove the plates and look underneath, fearing what I Will find. So far, the surrounding paint looks fine. What really have rusted are the nuts that hold the pin bolts down to the chassis.

So far, after reading this series of posts, I feel like I need and extra set of SHELBY letters, new Hood Pin assemblies.

 

Mark

 

 

Open the hood and look at the hole for the pins from the underside. You will see the exposed metal from when SAI drilled the holes. If this area has not begun to rust my guess is you are alright at the moment. I've owned my Vista SGT for a couple months now and we have had some very wet, humid weather here for the last month and I still see no signs of rust. But, I also pulled off the plates and coated all the exposed metal with a clear that I brushed on. Not sure if it will help in the end but I figured it couldn't hurt.

 

By the way, my billet plates are also pretty heavily scratched from the dealer. I figured this is what you will see overtime as the pins bounce and rattle against the plates. I plan to pull my hood and store it so I can replace it with a carbon fiber stock hood and a Chip Beck scoop with painted stripes. At that time I will purchase new billet hood pins.

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Open the hood and look at the hole for the pins from the underside. You will see the exposed metal from when SAI drilled the holes. If this area has not begun to rust my guess is you are alright at the moment. I've owned my Vista SGT for a couple months now and we have had some very wet, humid weather here for the last month and I still see no signs of rust. But, I also pulled off the plates and coated all the exposed metal with a clear that I brushed on. Not sure if it will help in the end but I figured it couldn't hurt.

 

By the way, my billet plates are also pretty heavily scratched from the dealer. I figured this is what you will see overtime as the pins bounce and rattle against the plates. I plan to pull my hood and store it so I can replace it with a carbon fiber stock hood and a Chip Beck scoop with painted stripes. At that time I will purchase new billet hood pins.

 

I did take a look and saw no rust there. What I am a little confused about is the mounting of the plates. Based on what I have read here referring to mounting screws, I was surprised that mine was mounted to the hood with rivets. And from underneath, only 2 of the rivets are exposed. The other two do not actually go through both layers of the hood metal. They are only rivetted through the external hood metal and dont come all the way through. To remount them with screws, I would have tro drill out the rivets. Is this what everyone is doing?

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Open the hood and look at the hole for the pins from the underside. You will see the exposed metal from when SAI drilled the holes. If this area has not begun to rust my guess is you are alright at the moment. I've owned my Vista SGT for a couple months now and we have had some very wet, humid weather here for the last month and I still see no signs of rust. But, I also pulled off the plates and coated all the exposed metal with a clear that I brushed on. Not sure if it will help in the end but I figured it couldn't hurt.

 

By the way, my billet plates are also pretty heavily scratched from the dealer. I figured this is what you will see overtime as the pins bounce and rattle against the plates. I plan to pull my hood and store it so I can replace it with a carbon fiber stock hood and a Chip Beck scoop with painted stripes. At that time I will purchase new billet hood pins.

 

 

The hood is aluminum and aluminum corrodes but it does not rust. Rust refers only to iron and steel corrosion. Aluminum can be prone to corrosion. However, aluminum corrosion is aluminum oxide, a very hard material that actually protects the aluminum from further corrosion. Aluminum oxide corrosion also looks a lot more like aluminum, so it isn't as easy to notice as rusted iron. This is different than the galvanic corrosion some suspect is the cause of paint bubbling under and way from the pin plate. Though aluminum and stainless should normally be fine together, each having a low galvanic number, in salty or wet areas or if you wash your car a lot, it seems there can be a reaction as the water acts as middleware so to speak.

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I did take a look and saw no rust there. What I am a little confused about is the mounting of the plates. Based on what I have read here referring to mounting screws, I was surprised that mine was mounted to the hood with rivets. And from underneath, only 2 of the rivets are exposed. The other two do not actually go through both layers of the hood metal. They are only rivetted through the external hood metal and dont come all the way through. To remount them with screws, I would have tro drill out the rivets. Is this what everyone is doing?

 

It's preferable that, I think the top two, screws/rivets, do not poke through, especially the rivets, unless you want to see a nice dimple dent in the hood as the inner and outer layer are pulled together. If you have rivets I suspect these are aluminum, no galvanic issues, so unless you need to remove them I would leave them be.

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The hood is aluminum and aluminum corrodes but it does not rust. Rust refers only to iron and steel corrosion. Aluminum can be prone to corrosion. However, aluminum corrosion is aluminum oxide, a very hard material that actually protects the aluminum from further corrosion. Aluminum oxide corrosion also looks a lot more like aluminum, so it isn't as easy to notice as rusted iron. This is different than the galvanic corrosion some suspect is the cause of paint bubbling under and way from the pin plate. Though aluminum and stainless should normally be fine together, each having a low galvanic number, in salty or wet areas or if you wash your car a lot, it seems there can be a reaction as the water acts as middleware so to speak.

 

 

Good to know. I appreciate the clarification on what to look for.

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Well, I finally sprung for the Billet Hood Pins and started to install them. Observed couple things during removal:

1) 3 of the 4 screws were very loose. No noticeable force require to break them loose

after the first had obvious break away toque.

2) Plate/seal did not want to come off. Was trying to pry carefully with my finger

nails. When it popped, there was an area where my clear coat stuck to the seal.

3) All edges are still clean and aluminum does not appear oxidized.

 

Process is what everybody has indicated. There is a WHOLE lot of hood opening and closing. Hoping for using old pins and brackets does not look like it will work. I have elongated two holes at the radiator support to allow it to come forward and the attempted slight bending to get pin parallel to the back of the pin.. No luck yet.

 

As a side investigation I secured the plate, bushing and seal to the hood to confirm it will fit if I get the pin right. Learning’s:

1) Small dowel with drop of paint and passing it through and parallel to back of billet

hole marked the bracket 5/16” behind the pin hole. Seems quite large but, I have

not come up with method to determine how good the bracket surface is .

2) One of the four holes is effectively stripped. Took extreme care to torque lightly

to avoid stripping but, it had to have been from the beginning. Only thing keeping

it in is the friction to the seal. Screw is one of the blind ones from under the hood.

Could use some suggestions!

 

Saga is likely to take the rest of the week to complete. I will have to back and read more of this thread as I had not been keeping up since the 3rd page. Needed to have the parts to see what it takes to get them on. I agree they should have been Original Equipment.

 

Tom

Edited by DrKSGT

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Mark GT08 "I am also having problems with the circular clips that connect to the pins. They have a problem staying in the holes. I did remove them and bent them tighter and they seems to stay in better now."

 

Mine don't fit right either. Like you I bent them and they work a little better but they aren't right.

 

 

Mark GT08, "Based on what I have read here referring to mounting screws, I was surprised that mine was mounted to the hood with rivets. And from underneath, only 2 of the rivets are exposed. The other two do not actually go through both layers of the hood metal. They are only rivetted through the external hood metal and dont come all the way through."

 

 

Sounds like a better fix. Anyone replaced their screws with rivets? If so, what size rivets and how did it work?

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Well, I finally sprung for the Billet Hood Pins and started to install them. Observed couple things during removal:

1) 3 of the 4 screws were very loose. No noticeable force require to break them loose

after the first had obvious break away toque.

2) Plate/seal did not want to come off. Was trying to pry carefully with my finger

nails. When it popped, there was an area where my clear coat stuck to the seal.

3) All edges are still clean and aluminum does not appear oxidized.

 

Process is what everybody has indicated. There is a WHOLE lot of hood opening and closing. Hoping for using old pins and brackets does not look like it will work. I have elongated two holes at the radiator support to allow it to come forward and the attempted slight bending to get pin parallel to the back of the pin.. No luck yet.

 

As a side investigation I secured the plate, bushing and seal to the hood to confirm it will fit if I get the pin right. Learning’s:

1) Small dowel with drop of paint and passing it through and parallel to back of billet

hole marked the bracket 5/16” behind the pin hole. Seems quite large but, I have

not come up with method to determine how good the bracket surface is .

2) One of the four holes is effectively stripped. Took extreme care to torque lightly

to avoid stripping but, it had to have been from the beginning. Only thing keeping

it in is the friction to the seal. Screw is one of the blind ones from under the hood.

Could use some suggestions!

 

Saga is likely to take the rest of the week to complete. I will have to back and read more of this thread as I had not been keeping up since the 3rd page. Needed to have the parts to see what it takes to get them on. I agree they should have been Original Equipment.

 

Tom

 

I got a set of the new hood pins a few months ago and finally got around to starting the installation last weekend. I was happy to see that there was no corrosion or bubbling paint on the hood when I pulled off the old plates. I filed down some of the burrs on the holes in the hood and then applied a couple of coats of clearcoat to the exposed aluminum. Hopefully I won't have any corrosion in the future.

 

I noticed the new hood pin set has aluminum screws instead of stainless. They appear to be slightly small diameter so I hope they still "bite" into the threads in the hood. Another good thing was the nuts on the billett posts are aluminum, unlike the originals which were slightly rusted on my car.

 

That was all the good news... Now I'm into the installation which like DrKSGT said, it takes a lot of opening and closing of the hood to check the alignment. Since the plates on the new set are thicker, the post needs to come through the hood at a slight angle to make everything align. The original brackets that mount to the radiator support don't allow the post to be at the correct angle. The new brackets are slightly longer which moves the post forward, but then it won't fit through the holes in the hood. I found that the by slightly bending the original bracket, I could get the posts to lean forward slightly and then fit through the plate on the hood properly. I also noticed that the plastic spacer that fits under the hood plate needs to be rotated correctly since it has an oval shaped hole to allow the post to clear as the hood is lowered.

 

I've got one side almost aligned and I need to get back to finish it sometime. I haven't mounted the plate to the hood yet since I'm still trying to make sure I have the post at the correct angle. The clearances are pretty tight so I'm a little nervous about slamming the hood and watching the posts bend up the hood. I'll go slow and make sure everything fits...

 

Let me know if you find some inserts that allow the screws to "bite" into the hood better. I suspect the new screws won't be as tight since they are slightly smaller than the originals.

 

I'll keep you posted on my progress. Now I need to find some time to get back to it!

-yellow pony

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I dropped my SGT for 1/2 day yesterday to get the warranty claim started on my hood pins. I asked the dealer to send photos of the lanyards and bases.

Fingers crossed...

 

Ken

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Mark GT08 "I am also having problems with the circular clips that connect to the pins. They have a problem staying in the holes. I did remove them and bent them tighter and they seems to stay in better now."

 

Mine don't fit right either. Like you I bent them and they work a little better but they aren't right.

 

 

Mark GT08, "Based on what I have read here referring to mounting screws, I was surprised that mine was mounted to the hood with rivets. And from underneath, only 2 of the rivets are exposed. The other two do not actually go through both layers of the hood metal. They are only rivetted through the external hood metal and dont come all the way through."

 

 

Sounds like a better fix. Anyone replaced their screws with rivets? If so, what size rivets and how did it work?

 

 

I have zip tied my clips and lanyards inside the engine bay and purchased a set of stainless pins from Lowes at a $1.50 each. I did this primarily as I worry some punk will jack with the pins. This way of someone pulls them out or tries to walk off with them I'm only out the total of $3.00. On the other side of the coin this keeps the original pins and lanyards out of the elements. For shows and such I will pull the originals back out. The nice part about the pins I purchased at Lowes is they are much stronger then the aluminum pins. It would take some effort to loosen the rings.

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....

 

I'll keep you posted on my progress. Now I need to find some time to get back to it!

-yellow pony

 

I finally got back to finishing up the new hood pins yesterday. I'm very pleased how they came out, however it took awhile to get everything to line up perfectly.

 

The trick was to open and close the hood many times to ensure everything cleared well. I ended up elongating the holes in the hood with a file to get the posts to clear. The new plates screwed into the hood fine and everything lines up well. Defintely a big improvement over the originals!

 

Here's a few photos:

 

Old Pins

HoodPins-before.jpg

 

New Pins

HoodPins-after.jpg

 

Newpinsideview.jpg

 

Now its time to wash the car and get those bugs off the front bumper! :doh:

 

-yellow pony

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I have been waiting for someone to buy some aluminum screws and sell them, I guess I will have to find them myself. Are they # 6 screws? If someone can verify this I will buy some from Mcmaster Carr or somewhere and can send them to someone in an envelope if they wish, because the shipping is the biggest cost.

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I have been waiting for someone to buy some aluminum screws and sell them, I guess I will have to find them myself. Are they # 6 screws? If someone can verify this I will buy some from Mcmaster Carr or somewhere and can send them to someone in an envelope if they wish, because the shipping is the biggest cost.

 

You may want to PM Blueshawk from this thread it sounds like he was actively seaching:

 

http://www.teamshelby.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=41014

 

Of course after reading TSB 06-25-15 ALUMINUM BODY PANELS—CORROSION I'm wondering if it will make any difference at all what you do.

 

http://www.teamshelby.com/forums/index.php...st&p=713623

 

It seems perhaps the issue is not the screws and metal to metal, as I have said according to my marine metals chart aluminum and stainless should be fine together, but the issue may really be that breaking the integrity of the paint has amplified the issues described in this TSB.

 

If that's the case it doesn't matter what screws you buy it will happen anyway.

Edited by JeffIsHereToo

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Has anybody had this problem with their Shelby replacement hood pins?? As you can see in the pics, both my plastic covers on my lanyards have split open and ripped and have rust stains on them. Are these replaceable?

 

post-20530-1243639057_thumb.jpg post-20530-1243639073_thumb.jpg

post-20530-1243639057_thumb.jpg

post-20530-1243639073_thumb.jpg

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Has anybody had this problem with their Shelby replacement hood pins?? As you can see in the pics, both my plastic covers on my lanyards have split open and ripped and have rust stains on them. Are these replaceable?

 

 

They are replaceable.

 

I would contact SPP on Monday for instructions on next steps.

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probably been answered already, but I am missing ae screw from one of the hood pins. where can I get a set and what size (if I were to go to Home depot)

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Mark GT08 "I am also having problems with the circular clips that connect to the pins. They have a problem staying in the holes. I did remove them and bent them tighter and they seems to stay in better now."

 

Mine don't fit right either. Like you I bent them and they work a little better but they aren't right.

 

 

Mark GT08, "Based on what I have read here referring to mounting screws, I was surprised that mine was mounted to the hood with rivets. And from underneath, only 2 of the rivets are exposed. The other two do not actually go through both layers of the hood metal. They are only rivetted through the external hood metal and dont come all the way through."

 

 

Sounds like a better fix. Anyone replaced their screws with rivets? If so, what size rivets and how did it work?

 

I replaced my screws with rivets, which was easy. I just had to find a small spacer that fit into the recessed openings so my rivet tool would work. Below is the result and what rivets were used. The only thing to watch out for is making sure that the rivets don't catch on any inner hood skin as they're tightened.

 

IMG_2699.jpg

 

IMG_2700.jpg

 

-Steve

Edited by SoFL05GT

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