Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Hey, so I'm now in this group too. I have an 07 SGT CSM 1200. I'm going in tomorrow for a couple things. 1. My Scoop is warped 2. My Pony on the grille needs to be redone 3. my paint is bubbling around the hood pins. :cry: :cry::cry:

 

I've already been approved for the replacement Shelby Scoop, but my question is about the hood pins. Is Shelby/Ford replacing the 07SGT's who are having problems with the hood pins with the 08 style? And if so do they say "Shelby GT" or just "Shelby".

 

I'm really hoping Ford/Shelby are doing that because it just seems like the 07 hood pins are nothing but trouble... I don't know if I'll have to contact someone at Shelby to make that happen or what...if anyone has any advice on who to contact or where I should go with this let me know! Thanks

 

-Colin

 

No, they are not replacing them with 08 style.

 

There are more than 5000 07 SGTs and SOME have had issues, including me, with the hood pins, but they have been fixed under warranty and mine are fine since. It's my understanding that new pics use aluminum screws that is said to prevent the bubbling paint in the future. If not that would be my only suggestion.

 

If you want 08 style you can buy them but the "Shelby GT" versions are "exclusive" to the 08 cars.

Edited by JeffIsHereToo

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Can anyone confirm that the billet hood pins from SPP use aluminum screws? I'm also a member of the paint bubbling camp and have been approved for warranty repair, including complete hood replacement. [Part of the reason that the hood is being replaced is because I'm on hood scoop #5 and the hood is creased around the scoop.] Warranty doesn't include the billet pins so I need to purchase myself; however, I'm hoping that the billet pins use aluminum screws to prevent future bubbling. Otherwise the recommendation is rivets I suppose.

 

Also, should I ask my body shop to replace the posts? Are the new posts also aluminum? My existing posts show some rust. Are the new posts a direct swap?

 

Thanks for any help.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Bump.

 

Stripes are finally in and I'm scheduled early April for new hood, hood stripes and hood scoop #5. Maybe this time......

 

I've confirmed that the old SS hood pins will be reused. The dealer is being told by SA or Ford that it's not galvanic corrosion but "contamination" that over time caused the bubbling. I think they are just kicking the can far enough down the road until my warranty expires.

 

The dealer is willing to install billet pins if I purchase. This I will do but is there an "absolute" hood pin installation fix? Either aluminum screws, rivets, pre-treatment of holes, etc? Also are the new posts direct swaps for the old posts? I want to be clear with the dealer about my expectations.

 

Thanks

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

The dealer is being told by SA or Ford that it's not galvanic corrosion but "contamination" that over time caused the bubbling. I think they are just kicking the can far enough down the road until my warranty expires.

 

 

To be fair there is a TSB for hood bubbling paint due to contamination between the paint the prepped hood. I'll look for it later but one of the situations is where there has been a break in the paint that allows for that issue to become even more problematic. I'm not saying what's true one way or the other but that TSB has been out there for this issue for Mustangs without any hood pins. Seems to me that maybe there has been an issue at the paint shop or sometime and our hood pins are just what's needed to raise the level of incidents? :headscratch:

 

BTW: Just in case I did replace my screws with aluminum!

:dance:

Edited by JeffIsHereToo

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

To be fair there is a TSB for hood bubbling paint due to contamination between the paint the prepped hood. I'll look for it later but one of the situations is where there has been a break in the paint that allows for that issue to become even more problematic. I'm not saying what's true one way or the other but that TSB has been out there for this issue for Mustangs without any hood pins. Seems to me that maybe there has been an issue at the paint shop or sometime and our hood pins are just what's needed to raise the level of incidents? :headscratch:

 

BTW: Just in case I did replace my screws with aluminum!

:dance:

 

 

Jeff: I wasn't aware of the contamination TSB. I guess I feel a little better about what the dealer is saying. Nevertheless, I'd like to use aluminum screws as well. What size did you use for the billet hood pins? Where did you source?

 

Thanks

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Jeff: I wasn't aware of the contamination TSB. I guess I feel a little better about what the dealer is saying. Nevertheless, I'd like to use aluminum screws as well. What size did you use for the billet hood pins? Where did you source?

 

Thanks

 

 

 

Look through this thread Im sure the info is here. Some time ago another member bought a bunch and sent a set to me. If you look back in here I'm sure you will find the info.

 

Good luck with the repairs!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Look through this thread Im sure the info is here. Some time ago another member bought a bunch and sent a set to me. If you look back in here I'm sure you will find the info.

 

Good luck with the repairs!

 

 

 

Thanks Jeff. Read through all posts and linked pages. No definitive size or source for aluminum screws that fit the billet counterbore, but a lot of owners asking. Several owners have turned a #8 screw head down with a grinder but I don't have that equipment. Guess I'm going with SS for now. I'll also prompt the dealer to prep the holes with primer or paint to provide some measure of protection.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Well here is my contribution to the hood pin problem:

 

post-9886-127105319146_thumb.jpg

 

Both sides were corroded when I pulled the plates...drivers side is creeping out past the plate and the pass side is actually missing paint under the plate....warranty city I hope.

 

I am going to make sure that the repair has aluminum screws...not good.

 

 

 

post-9886-127105333171_thumb.jpg

 

 

I am sure it will get resolved, but I thought I ws in the clear these were checked in March 09. Bummer

post-9886-127105319146_thumb.jpg

post-9886-127105333171_thumb.jpg

post-9886-127105319146_thumb.jpg

post-9886-127105333171_thumb.jpg

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Jeff: I wasn't aware of the contamination TSB. I guess I feel a little better about what the dealer is saying. Nevertheless, I'd like to use aluminum screws as well. What size did you use for the billet hood pins? Where did you source?

 

Thanks

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Does anyone know the TSB number for the paint issue? I will probably have to walk my dealer through this for my 08 Shelby Coupe Barrett Jackson Edition. I took it in today for rusted lanyards and was told the vinyl covers had discolored but they are going to call Shelby to get me new ones.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Does anyone know the TSB number for the paint issue? I will probably have to walk my dealer through this for my 08 Shelby Coupe Barrett Jackson Edition. I took it in today for rusted lanyards and was told the vinyl covers had discolored but they are going to call Shelby to get me new ones.

 

 

aluminum corrosion tsb.pdf

aluminum corrosion tsb.pdf

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

 

Hey there Jer and gang,

 

Jer, I just read that pdf attachment "Aluminum Corrosion TSB". Very interesting and thank you for sharing that. But after reading that do you guys think that our FORD dealership/ shops are really going to be that meticulous and follow FORD's mandates/ guidelines concerning for example - the tools? A separate set including something like a wire brush for use on aluminum metal only, etc? Totally isolating an aluminum serviced car from any contaminating steel metal vehicles? One guy is going to holler out "Who's got a wire brush?" And another will yell out, "Uh, here's one!" Does anybody really think that they will stop and discuss which type of metal has been being working on with it prior, etc? I think not.

 

I don't know about the rest of you but when I took my SGT to my local FORD dealership over the past 6 months for the warranty work on the hood for blistering under the hood pin plates, the warped hood scoop and the scrunched up stripes - the place was your typical body/ paint shop. Shit laying everywhere my beautiful SGT sitting there w/ it's hood off on wooden sawhorses next to many other vehicles getting worked on. I am pleased with most of the work that they did but I just have to say I don't think it is realistic to expect this kind of meticulousness from a body shop. Sad to say but this is job to these guys. Do you think they really care about our cars like we do - like it was their own? Probably not but that is normal.

 

This is why when I finally got the call that my SGT was ready for pickup I drive 60 miles to pick it up in one of my daily driver vehicles that I know I am going to have to leave for the night. I see my baby from afar sitting in their fenced pen all shiny and washed on a sunny day. My heart begins to race with joy. Then the Body Shop Manager leads me out to check it out and say goodbye. I start walking around it and the first thing I notice is red paint on my back bumper like it possibly collided with another vehicle?! I then see hairline cracks in the vista blue paint on the plastic rear bumper. I then walk around front and when I look down I see the lowest part of the front fascia all scratched/ gouged from what appears to be curb rash! Like somebody took a red brick and just sanded it to Hell. I said to the guy "what happened here?" He says, "what?" I point and explain. He then says, "It's a Shelby - they sit low". Unacceptable!

 

My point is one step forward and two steps back. The hood, scoop and stripes all looked beautiful but the other damage could have been avoided if they truly cared. But again my point - they don't care about our cars like we do - it's just a job. I then left my SGT and didn't see it again for another 2 months. Was told originally it would be one week when I left it but whenever I called to check the Body Shop Manager informed me, "we had to stop working on it to do regular work." Regular work? He then told me he was "irritated"? That they just don't do that kind of work there and that he asked all of the guys if they did anything to the car and they all said no. Well duh! Of course nobody is going to admit to running customers beautiful and pristine SGT into a curb. Hell, I believe a majority of people consider that a normal thing. To pull too far forward, hit the curb and simply go "oops."

 

Anyhow - sorry to rant. But again, my point is FORD can release a document like that to all of their dealerships but when these guys roll in on a Monday morning do you really think that being that meticulous is their real agenda for the day? Probably..... not.

 

I hope I don't get attacked now by a true meticulous body guy/ gal because I know you are out there - just a rarity.

 

Thanks - Dana

post-30176-0-39506400-1313071459_thumb.jpg

post-30176-0-39506400-1313071459_thumb.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

They look like they are all painted "white". But I may have missed something.

 

 

Now...............

 

all those who have this car better take those hood pin plates off and at least prime all the bare metal you can cover. On mine, the bubbling occurs not just where the screw holes are but also along the edge of the center hole. What is odd, is that the driver's side only has it (considerable bubbling) and the passenger's side does not.

 

I sanded all of the affected paint except for a little that extends just beyond the area that's covered by the plate. I Alodined, primed, painted and clear coated both pin hole areas. When it dries, I'm also going to put new plates and silicone pads on. I also have new screws which I clear coated underneath the heads. As far as I can tell I've interrupted the galvanic circuit as much as possible. The only possible connection will be the threads of the screw to the hood, but even that is limited because I Alodined and primed the threaded holes.

 

It looks like crap but it will be covered by the plates. I hope this is enough to arrest the corrosion.

 

This can't happen with the CS6 hood!

 

I bet you Shelby has known about this for quite a while. because the '08 SGT's have a different hood pin design (which I ordered today and will installed ASAP). The clear anodized on the billet aluminum is probably not conducting. They also talk about a Delrin bushing for the pins. I'll have to inspect when I get these, but I bet there is a good deal less possiblity for galvanic corrosion on these than the old ones.

 

 

 

I have an 08 SGT, and currently I am going through 1 1/2 year long process to get this problem fixed. So, I don't think it really matters what material was used for the screws ...just bad quality.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Get the aluminum screws from SVT. They are free, shipped and all.

 

Dana, Who did you contact for the free screws, and what was the process?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Hi there - just saw this so sorry about the delay!

 

Call SVT at 800-367-3788 - give them the last 6 digits of your VIN # and mailing/ shipping address and they send you a bag of 10 screws (although you only need 8) that are phillips head and the proper size and all aluminum. Any other metal screw on that aluminum hood including stainless steel will still rust and cause those blisters underneath the hood pin plates. Good luck! Dana

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I called Ford and received the screws. I am considering putting something on the threads other than auto paste wax. I am considering a synthetic grease or something to prevent the corrosion, possibly oxy gard. Oxy gard is used on electrical wiring when you mix aluminum and copper wiring and the aluminum eventually breaks down. Or just a snythetic grease to coat the threads and come in to contact with the bare aluminum where the holes were drilled in to the hood.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I've seen some prior posts mention the Shelby billet hood pins, are they these? http://www.americanm...odpin-0509.html and if so are they a direct fit to the stock ones already on my SGT? Diameter, screw holes lining up etc...

 

 

Yes those are the ones. They are similar to those installed on the 2008 SGT. The holes are the same. The pin length will need to be adjusted and some members have posted their experiences here in this thread. Good luck with them and if you have any problems, or more questions, come on back and I'm sure someone that's done the install will be happy to help.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I decided to do something about this corrosion issue today. Home Depot has #8 1/2 inch aluminum screws that work. I already had the 08 billet hood pins. You have to file down the diameter of the heads a little so they fit down into the holes.

Edited by Rev Dennis

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Why not just get the proper aluminum screws free from FORD?

 

From my previous post above... Call SVT at 800-367-3788 - give them the last 6 digits of your VIN # and mailing/ shipping address and they send you a bag of 10 screws (although you only need 8) that are phillips head and the proper size and all aluminum. Dana

Edited by Dana Holmes

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Clamp a file to your vise. Then place your screw in the chuck of your drill. Turn that drill on and run it up against the file and you'll have the correct size head in no time. By the way, were the Home Depot screws slotted head or phillips head? I couldn't find any phillips head aluminum screws at Lowe's or Home Depot. I ended up with some slotted head screws from a local hardware store. They have since been replaced with the free screws from FRRP.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

While attending the American Muscle Mustang Show in PA. this past summer, I had my 2008 vista blue Shelby GT on display. A gentleman walked by my car while looking at my rusty landyards stated "nice car but I hate seeing this".

I told him that I also hated the rusty landyards. He handed me his card and said E-mail me and I'll send you a new set of landyards. I really didnt pay it anymind until i read his card which said he was a manager at

Drake automotive group....woohoo :mademyday: I thanked Chris in the e-mail for being so attentive and going behond the call of duty. He didn't have to volunteer his services but said he saw a wrong and wanted to make it right.

Later that week I received my new landyards with 8 new screws :yahoo: That was some great unexpected customer service from Drake Automotive Group. I stopped by the Shelby tent just to test the waters and talked to Keith

about my rusty landyards and he said e-mail him so he could help resolve my issues. I didn't want to be greedy and burn both ends of the candle but would like to thank Shelby for the nice customer service I received also.

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I have another question about the hood pins.....or possibly moreover a comment on them.

 

I just bought a 2007 with 168 miles on it. When the car showed up on the carrier, the pull pins were rock solid in the holes of the thru-pins.... Knowing full well what most likely happened (and I was correct) I had to push down on the hood to relieve the pressure applied on them from the hood cable being pulled prematurely.

 

Who knows how many times this has happened in this cars life, but I have an idea now. Does anyone else have a shallow dip in about a 6 or 8" diameter around the pin assy??? It seems to me this has occurred from years of popping the hood without pulling the pins first?

It's really most noticeable in the garage lighting...thank God!

 

Pi$$es me off, nonetheless. :swear:

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Bikeboy,

 

I purchased my first SGT new in 08 and mine looked similar to your description. Mine turned out to be a simple fix as it was caused by pinching of the 2 hood layers where the screw holes went through 2 layers.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

While attending the American Muscle Mustang Show in PA. this past summer, I had my 2008 vista blue Shelby GT on display. A gentleman walked by my car while looking at my rusty landyards stated "nice car but I hate seeing this".

I told him that I also hated the rusty landyards. He handed me his card and said E-mail me and I'll send you a new set of landyards. I really didnt pay it anymind until i read his card which said he was a manager at

Drake automotive group....woohoo :mademyday: I thanked Chris in the e-mail for being so attentive and going behond the call of duty. He didn't have to volunteer his services but said he saw a wrong and wanted to make it right.

Later that week I received my new landyards with 8 new screws :yahoo: That was some great unexpected customer service from Drake Automotive Group. I stopped by the Shelby tent just to test the waters and talked to Keith

about my rusty landyards and he said e-mail him so he could help resolve my issues. I didn't want to be greedy and burn both ends of the candle but would like to thank Shelby for the nice customer service I received also.

 

My experience was very similar but different. When I brought my car to Shelby American for the GT/SC upgrade. When I was picking it up I mentioned to Bud that I was getting the dreaded lanyard rust and they hadn't noticed it. [Which was odd because I was in Colorado low humidity and the car never saw rain]. Anyway, Bud made a phone call to Scott Drake and I went over to their location and asked for the right person and was handed a set for no charge. Bud installed them while I waited.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

Loading...

×
×
  • Create New...