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My experience was very similar but different. When I brought my car to Shelby American for the GT/SC upgrade. When I was picking it up I mentioned to Bud that I was getting the dreaded lanyard rust and they hadn't noticed it. [Which was odd because I was in Colorado low humidity and the car never saw rain]. Anyway, Bud made a phone call to Scott Drake and I went over to their location and asked for the right person and was handed a set for no charge. Bud installed them while I waited.

So the ones they replaced were they the same material as the rusted ones?

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So the ones they replaced were they the same material as the rusted ones?

 

No, there was a redesign - new material I think on the braided metal to the screw terminations - but it was so long ago I don't remember.

Edited by twobjshelbys

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The lanyards in my new billet kit look the same, with the exception of rotating balls at the pin end, to keep them from getting twisted.....clever design. :thumbsup:

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My experience was very similar but different. When I brought my car to Shelby American for the GT/SC upgrade. When I was picking it up I mentioned to Bud that I was getting the dreaded lanyard rust and they hadn't noticed it. [Which was odd because I was in Colorado low humidity and the car never saw rain]. Anyway, Bud made a phone call to Scott Drake and I went over to their location and asked for the right person and was handed a set for no charge. Bud installed them while I waited.

Nice to hear. It's amazing how something so small can be so irritating. This new set is holding up very well with no signs of any rust...woohoo!

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Anyone replace their '07 hood pin kit with Shelby Parts kit (http://www.shelbystore.com/product-p/S1MS-16892-SSK.htm)?  Does their kit incorporate the aluminum screws or are they still stainless screws?  I'm trying to avoid a repeat of the corrosion after I get the hood fixed or replaced. 

Speaking of fixed, I read here that several had their hoods fixed through the warranty.  That's no longer an option, but how were the repairs...how did they turn out?  Were you satisfied, did they last?  One Ford body shop says hey can repair the hood, the other says to replace it? 

What would you recommend after your experience ... repair or replace hood?

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I would bu the AI screws if there is any doubt. You can get the right size on-line, a bunch of us did years ago, and they cost pennies.  Cheap insurance.   I would replace the hood if you are going to REALLY keep the car.  All it takes is a few left over particles to hav e it start all over again.  Remember Ford's extended warranty for hood corrosion WAS NOT due to or for the Shelby screws.  While these screws do cause corrosion the extended warranty was for factory hood contamination by airborne particles prior to prime and paint.  

Edited by JeffIsHereToo

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My auto body shop repair man / owner told me that heat generated from drilling the holes causes the paint to bubble.  So he said you're basically hoping that it doesn't bubble when you drill the holes.  That means I should have had them drilled before I got the hood repainted.

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33 minutes ago, Dennis Stith said:

My auto body shop repair man / owner told me that heat generated from drilling the holes causes the paint to bubble.  So he said you're basically hoping that it doesn't bubble when you drill the holes.  That means I should have had them drilled before I got the hood repainted.

Well then try asking your bodyman why hoods with NO holes drilled also have corrosion, see example below.

Although the steel screws used on the Shelby GT's  hood pins certainly sped up the corrosion situation Ford has had this corrosion problem from day one with the use of aluminum hoods. Ford has issued plenty of TSB's regarding this problem.

 

image.png

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My wife’s O6 Mustang that we used to have had the same type of corrosion happen to the hood on hers and that car had no hood pins!   It got fixed in a 50/50 deal by Ford, and a few years later it started to come back right before we sold it!!   So, with that said, there definitely is a problem there!  :shrug:         Later!     “MONGOOSE”    :peelout:

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19 hours ago, SAI-Steven said:

Well then try asking your bodyman why hoods with NO holes drilled also have corrosion, see example below.

Although the steel screws used on the Shelby GT's  hood pins certainly sped up the corrosion situation Ford has had this corrosion problem from day one with the use of aluminum hoods. Ford has issued plenty of TSB's regarding this problem.

 

 

I can ask for you next time I go there but from an educated guess, it looks like the surface wasn't properly prepped.  I had this problem on the running boards of my mid 90s cal look vw beetle because the shop didn't buy the aluminum etch chemicals (then they did an Acura NSX a few weeks later and had to buy it for that, as it is a premium car, heh), I ended up getting them powder coated but then they didn't match and it looked weird so then I had them painted on top of the powder coat but I never put them back on the car.

Sucks that the late model S197 has so much problem with that hood.  Well, underneath my factory hood there's a very small amount of peeling somewhere under there I saw but the entire top is perfect, just has some rock chips.  I own two hoods for my S197.

And going way off topic here, but this reminds me the decklid on my beetle had old primer applied so it even bubbled and I had to have it re-painted too.  But yeah it's steel.

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Good afternoon,

I'm new here, because I bought my SGT 1 month ago.

My hood apparently has no corrosion, and the screws were still stainless steel, but when I removed them, I noticed that there was a start of corrosion around the holes.

Replaces with rivets.

The question is; Will the corrosion stop, or will it spread out of the part?

thanks!!!

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1 hour ago, SERGIO GODINHO said:

Good afternoon,

I'm new here, because I bought my SGT 1 month ago.

My hood apparently has no corrosion, and the screws were still stainless steel, but when I removed them, I noticed that there was a start of corrosion around the holes.

Replaces with rivets.

The question is; Will the corrosion stop, or will it spread out of the part?

thanks!!!

If you noticed a small amount of “bubbling” started already, even if you have removed the stainless screws you may still experience a slight continuation of the galvanic process. The galvanic process requires 3 things, 2 dissimilar metals and an electrolyte. Since some transfer has already happened, whenever your car sees moisture via rain, washing, or very humid air it will set the stage for ion exchange if there is still a presence of dissimilar metals.Living near an ocean will accelerate the process due to salt in the air which improves the conductivity of water.  This will continue until there is an equalization of ion exchange. I removed the stainless steel screws and replaced with aluminum screws when I bought my SGT with 1000 miles on it. There was a small galvanic bubble underneath one hood pin cover about 2 millimeters in diameter, over a period of a couple of years it progressed out to a millimeter or two just outside of the hood pin cover and then it pretty much stopped spreading any further. 

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34 minutes ago, mhr1961 said:

Se você notou que uma pequena quantidade de "bolhas" já começou, mesmo se você removeu os parafusos de aço inoxidável, você ainda pode experimentar uma ligeira continuação do processo galvânico. O processo galvânico requer 3 coisas, 2 metais diferentes e um eletrólito. Como algumas transferências já aconteceram, sempre que seu carro vir umidade via chuva, lavagem ou ar muito úmido, ele preparará o terreno para a troca iônica se ainda houver presença de metais diferentes. Morar perto de um oceano acelerará o processo devido ao sal no ar, o que melhora a condutividade da água. Isso continuará até que haja uma equalização da troca iônica. Tirei os parafusos de aço inoxidável e os substituí pelos de alumínio quando comprei meu SGT com 1000 milhas. Havia uma pequena bolha galvânica embaixo de uma tampa de pino de capuz com cerca de 2 milímetros de diâmetro; durante um período de alguns anos, progrediu para um milímetro ou dois logo fora da tampa de pino de capuz e, em seguida, praticamente parou de se espalhar. 

Thanks for the answer! Before placing the rivets, I painted all exposed metal underneath the piece, cleaned the silicone gaskets and reassembled. I hope the corrosion does not continue!

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I would recommend simply replacing the stainless screws with aluminum instead of rivets.

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19 hours ago, SERGIO GODINHO said:

Thanks for the answer! Before placing the rivets, I painted all exposed metal underneath the piece, cleaned the silicone gaskets and reassembled. I hope the corrosion does not continue!

At best you will have slowed the corrosion process but not eliminated it. Short of grinding out the corrosion, prepping the raw aluminum per manufacturers specifications and repainting the hood you did the best you could.

You do realize that many aluminum rivets have a steel core, hopefully you used all aluminum rivets.

Steven

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Have any of you tried pushbutton hood pins like these? https://www.cjponyparts.com/quik-latch-hood-pin-kit-low-profile-series-ql-38-black/p/HDPK45/

I have a new hood, and plan to be careful not to use steel screws when placing them in the hood. I've been searching for ~18 months for an a replacement that won't rust itself away.

hdpk45_1.4177.jpg

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If you're concerned about rusting, put that stainless hardware in vinegar for an hour or so.  It'll dissolve the iron from the surface.

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On 1/11/2020 at 1:14 PM, Fat Boss said:

If you're concerned about rusting, put that stainless hardware in vinegar for an hour or so.  It'll dissolve the iron from the surface.

Thanks for the tip. I’m so wary of corrosion, I am going to make a special effort to ensure that no steel hardware comes in contact with the hood at all.

(I’m also replying to this since the thread hasn’t seen activity since your reply and I’d like to get more attention on my post from 1/11 about the hardware)

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