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Well,....my sunny wednesday drive into work quickly became unpleasurable when my temp light banged on and I looked to see that my temp gauge was pinned on HOT !! Other than the FRPP CAI ,..there isn't much else done to the car. I noticed also that when I turned the heat on the air wasn't very hot. I'm assuming that the thermostat has siezed closed. Has anyone else had this happen to them. The ride home was just as frustrating since I had to pull off several times to let the car cool before it overheated. I'm bringing it to the dealer next week. My vmp pulley and tune is on order,...good thing I didn't put that on yet.

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Well,....my sunny wednesday drive into work quickly became unpleasurable when my temp light banged on and I looked to see that my temp gauge was pinned on HOT !! Other than the FRPP CAI ,..there isn't much else done to the car. I noticed also that when I turned the heat on the air wasn't very hot. I'm assuming that the thermostat has siezed closed. Has anyone else had this happen to them. The ride home was just as frustrating since I had to pull off several times to let the car cool before it overheated. I'm bringing it to the dealer next week. My vmp pulley and tune is on order,...good thing I didn't put that on yet.

 

Check your coolant level as well. If it is normal then it is probably your thermostat.

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Turn on the a/c and see if the fans are coming on.I had a problems last summer with car overheating,Ford had to replace fusebox was told i was not the first.!

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Well,....my sunny wednesday drive into work quickly became unpleasurable when my temp light banged on and I looked to see that my temp gauge was pinned on HOT !! Other than the FRPP CAI ,..there isn't much else done to the car. I noticed also that when I turned the heat on the air wasn't very hot. I'm assuming that the thermostat has siezed closed. Has anyone else had this happen to them. The ride home was just as frustrating since I had to pull off several times to let the car cool before it overheated. I'm bringing it to the dealer next week. My vmp pulley and tune is on order,...good thing I didn't put that on yet.

 

 

 

Hmm. Temp gauge says it's hot but the air from the heater (core) vent is cold....

 

Sounds like a bad temp gauge sender to me.

 

First thing to do is check and see if there is any coolant to get hot. No? Add coolant. Yes? See below...

 

Second thing to check is, is the coolant actually getting hot/overheating or is the gauge lying to you? Is it boiling over into the reserviour? (bubbles?)

 

No? Test the gauge circuit by jumping the terminals or grounding the single terminal.

 

Gauge toggles? Replace the sender unit.

 

 

 

Phill

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Hmm. Temp gauge says it's hot but the air from the heater (core) vent is cold....

 

Sounds like a bad temp gauge sender to me.

 

First thing to do is check and see if there is any coolant to get hot. No? Add coolant. Yes? See below...

 

Second thing to check is, is the coolant actually getting hot/overheating or is the gauge lying to you? Is it boiling over into the reserviour? (bubbles?)

 

No? Test the gauge circuit by jumping the terminals or grounding the single terminal.

 

Gauge toggles? Replace the sender unit.

 

 

 

Phill

 

Phil and everyone,thanks for the responses. The first thing I did was to check to see if the coolant was low which it wasn't and the coolant was DEFINITELY HOT. It had actually blown a little bit out on the ride home. Im certain the gauge and temp sensor are working,..im just not getting any circulation. I did wonder at first if maybe it was fan related but I still should have had heat out of the vents so im sure there is a restriction. I'm just amazed that with only 8014 miles (to be exact) the stat failed. I suppose things could have been alot worse but it still sucks. Thanks again everyone. Dave

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Phil and everyone,thanks for the responses. The first thing I did was to check to see if the coolant was low which it wasn't and the coolant was DEFINITELY HOT. It had actually blown a little bit out on the ride home. Im certain the gauge and temp sensor are working,..im just not getting any circulation. I did wonder at first if maybe it was fan related but I still should have had heat out of the vents so im sure there is a restriction. I'm just amazed that with only 8014 miles (to be exact) the stat failed. I suppose things could have been alot worse but it still sucks. Thanks again everyone. Dave

 

 

 

I've seen a water pump impeller failure do this.

 

If the fans don't work, it overheats at stops or in slow traffic but cools once you get going and get air-flow over the radiator.

 

If it overheats at speed (and has flow) the radiator tubes need a rod-out.

 

If the water pump stops circulating, you get hot coolant but not hot out of the heater. Make sure you have the temp setting all the way to hot and not on defrost (AC comes on with defrost).

 

Does the water pump have a separate belt? (I"ve never looked)

 

HTH,

Phill

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A failed thermostat or electric fan may have led to overheating and some lost coolant. Usually no heat means there is a large amount of air in the system. A water pump impeller failure is possible but I'd think the least likely of the 3 possibilities.

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Well,....my sunny wednesday drive into work quickly became unpleasurable when my temp light banged on and I looked to see that my temp gauge was pinned on HOT !! Other than the FRPP CAI ,..there isn't much else done to the car. I noticed also that when I turned the heat on the air wasn't very hot. I'm assuming that the thermostat has siezed closed. Has anyone else had this happen to them. The ride home was just as frustrating since I had to pull off several times to let the car cool before it overheated. I'm bringing it to the dealer next week. My vmp pulley and tune is on order,...good thing I didn't put that on yet.

 

 

In addition to what everyone else has noted these systems must have the air blead out of them. If anyone has allowed the coolant level to get low and air is drawn into the system, or if air gets into the system during service or maintenance, the system must have the trapped air blead out of it. If that is not done water does not properly circulate and the engine gets hot.

 

Most likely either your fan is not coming on (as others have suggested) or you have air in your cooling system.

 

Very unlikely that your radiator is clogged or that your water pump has failed.

 

Good luck. Ron B.

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Even if the thermostat is stuck, either open or closed, there would be heat from the heater vents as long as there is circulation. I vote for air/low coolant but could be water pump impeller failure. Fan not comming on would still have heat at the vents until the coolant boiled out. DO NOT CONTINUE DRIVING THIS.

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Even if the thermostat is stuck, either open or closed, there would be heat from the heater vents as long as there is circulation. I vote for air/low coolant but could be water pump impeller failure. Fan not comming on would still have heat at the vents until the coolant boiled out. DO NOT CONTINUE DRIVING THIS.

 

Shes home safe in my garage waiting to go to the dealer next week which is 2 miles from my house . Its not the fans and the coolant is full. Until this problem the car was running great and showed absolutely no signs of leaking anything or consumption of coolant,,.....it definitely appears to be a lack of circulation. I should clarify a little detail,...the air coming out of the vents when the heat was turned onto hot was warm (sort of) but not hot for a car that was pegging the temp gauge . Im hoping it is a simple thing like the stat and not a water pump failure. I'll let everyone know when I get her back. Until then its just eye candy in my garage.

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Even if the thermostat is stuck, either open or closed, there would be heat from the heater vents as long as there is circulation.
But if the thermostat sticks closed or even mostly closed the car will overheat and puke out coolant which will allow air into the system and then eventually you'll have little to no coolant going through the heater core. Edited by jm@ReischePerf

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Normally I would not comment on something like this because it's unrelated to our supercharger kits, but I just wanted to share something.

 

We had a customer that had an overheating problem like this that went on for about a month. He was convinced swapping of the supercharger (to ours) was causing his overheating problems. I went back and forth with him trying different things and kept telling him if the supercharger was the culprit then all Kenne Bell supercharged GT500's would be overheating. But they don't. We went through all the things like what's been mentioned in this thread, over and over, to no avail. The car was really new too so it was driving us mad trying to find the answer. Wasn't the thermostat, wasn't an airlock in the system, bad water pump etc... What it did turn out to be in the end was a simple coolant recovery cap problem. It was not sealing (read plastic cap, plastic bottle). The plastic threads can strip very easily. He bought a new cap and the problem went away forever.

 

We initially failed to look at the obvious; a common mistake. If the cap does not seal, the engine WILL overheat. The system must stay pressurized. Never overlook the obvious! If the car will not start, make sure it has fuel in it first before tearing the whole car apart.

 

Just a thought. Hope you find it. Good luck with it.

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Normally I would not comment on something like this because it's unrelated to our supercharger kits, but I just wanted to share something.

 

We had a customer that had an overheating problem like this that went on for about a month. He was convinced swapping of the supercharger (to ours) was causing his overheating problems. I went back and forth with him trying different things and kept telling him if the supercharger was the culprit then all Kenne Bell supercharged GT500's would be overheating. But they don't. We went through all the things like what's been mentioned in this thread, over and over, to no avail. The car was really new too so it was driving us mad trying to find the answer. Wasn't the thermostat, wasn't an airlock in the system, bad water pump etc... What it did turn out to be in the end was a simple coolant recovery cap problem. It was not sealing (read plastic cap, plastic bottle). The plastic threads can strip very easily. He bought a new cap and the problem went away forever.

 

We initially failed to look at the obvious; a common mistake. If the cap does not seal, the engine WILL overheat. The system must stay pressurized. Never overlook the obvious! If the car will not start, make sure it has fuel in it first before tearing the whole car apart.

 

Just a thought. Hope you find it. Good luck with it.

 

 

great info mike, is that because it pulls into a negative pressure upon cooling off and itroduces air into the system, airlocking it upon its next start up cycle? thanks again. tom

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great info mike, is that because it pulls into a negative pressure upon cooling off and itroduces air into the system, airlocking it upon its next start up cycle? thanks again. tom

 

 

No, that's because the boiling temperature of water goes up as pressure goes up...

 

That's how you can run a engine at 230d F without boiling all the coolant out of the cooling system.

 

A leaking cap will allow the coolant to boil at ~212d F. When the coolant boils, it pushes air/water out of the system into the reserviour. It's not necessarily "overheating", it's just boiling the coolant and pushing it out indicating overheating.

 

Put a good cap on it and the pressure (~13psi) brings the boiling point up.

 

 

Phill

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a simple coolant recovery cap problem. It was not sealing (read plastic cap, plastic bottle). The plastic threads can strip very easily. He bought a new cap and the problem went away forever.
Unfortunate that some GT500 owners will have to deal with the same cap sealing issues that the previous models are notorious for. Thank you for posting because this is the first I've heard of this issue on a GT500.

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