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Ok, I'll start it off.

 

So I'm driving the 2011 vert and see the PSI gauge. The thing doesn't budge. What is this gauge? Is it supposed to be doing something?

 

 

So there you have it folks - the first Questions by dummies!

 

 

Appreciate answers...in layman's terms!

 

 

Thanks!

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Ok, I'll start it off.

 

So I'm driving the 2011 vert and see the PSI gauge. The thing doesn't budge. What is this gauge? Is it supposed to be doing something?

 

 

So there you have it folks - the first Questions by dummies!

 

 

Appreciate answers...in layman's terms!

 

 

Thanks!

 

its the boost gauge,measuring the output of your SC.,Have you set the supercharger yet.You do this by driving I think 7 miles at speed on a highway,and the SC will come on--youll hear it and feel it. 2nd possibilty is you wont see the boost come in unless you go to full throttle,or atleast push the peal somewhat.So eg, if youre in 2nd gear at 2000 rpm, hit the throttle and youll see the PSI gauge move

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its the boost gauge,measuring the output of your SC.,Have you set the supercharger yet.You do this by driving I think 7 miles at speed on a highway,

 

 

 

5 *continuous* miles. Speed doesn't matter, just miles and 4 + 1 won't do it if you turn your key off between the 4 and the 1. It'll restart the sequence all over agian until you put FIVE on from engine start to key off (so don't stall it a bunch of times on your first 5 mile drive!).

 

Or 50 start cycles, whichever comes first.

 

And *yes*, you will KNOW (not 'think' you know) when the SC is activated. There was no question and I didn't need to see the boost gauge to tell me it was workin'.

 

 

Phill

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Ok, I'll start it off.

 

So I'm driving the 2011 vert and see the PSI gauge. The thing doesn't budge. What is this gauge? Is it supposed to be doing something?

 

 

So there you have it folks - the first Questions by dummies!

 

 

Appreciate answers...in layman's terms!

 

 

Thanks!

 

 

 

What Phil said, by the way, PSI=pounds per square inch or pound-force per square inch

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the temp gauge and the oil pressure gauge on a 2010 built 12/09... the temp gauge normally reads in the "7:00" position while the oil pressure gauge normally reads in the "5:00" position...is this normal? my logic has it the other way around especially since this car radiates so much heat :)

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the temp gauge and the oil pressure gauge on a 2010 built 12/09... the temp gauge normally reads in the "7:00" position while the oil pressure gauge normally reads in the "5:00" position...is this normal? my logic has it the other way around especially since this car radiates so much heat :)

 

 

That's the general position of my gauges since day one.

 

All the cars I've owned have had the temp gauge below the middle ground.

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Thanks everyone! I'll bet that mine has yet to come on! Appreciate the info!

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Thanks everyone! I'll bet that mine has yet to come on! Appreciate the info!

 

 

You'll know if/when it does.

 

Mine was a "oh SHIT" moment. When I test drove it at the dealer I got on it once on a fwy on-ramp. I guess the salesman could see it in my face like "what the F...."? He said it is boost limited until after break-in and I was like, "oh, okay. that explains why it's such a dog".

 

Then on the drive home we have a street we turn onto that's a good 1/2 mile long of no cross streets. I rounded the corner and shifted down into first, got the car pointed in the right direction and just put the pedel to the wood. My wife started screaming at me, hitting me in the arm screaming "SLOW DOWN...SLOW DOWN". It broke my concentration so bad I missed banging second which would'a really pissed her off.

 

She said she knew AS SOON AS I ROUNDED THE CORNER what I was going to do (I don't normally slow down enough for first gear on the turn).

 

It was kind'a like "all hell broke out", between the car hitting boost and her hitting me (and me NOT hitting 2nd!)!

 

 

But ONE time I'll always remember,

Phill

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You'll know if/when it does.

 

Mine was a "oh SHIT" moment. When I test drove it at the dealer I got on it once on a fwy on-ramp. I guess the salesman could see it in my face like "what the F...."? He said it is boost limited until after break-in and I was like, "oh, okay. that explains why it's such a dog".

 

Then on the drive home we have a street we turn onto that's a good 1/2 mile long of no cross streets. I rounded the corner and shifted down into first, got the car pointed in the right direction and just put the pedel to the wood. My wife started screaming at me, hitting me in the arm screaming "SLOW DOWN...SLOW DOWN". It broke my concentration so bad I missed banging second which would'a really pissed her off.

 

She said she knew AS SOON AS I ROUNDED THE CORNER what I was going to do (I don't normally slow down enough for first gear on the turn).

 

It was kind'a like "all hell broke out", between the car hitting boost and her hitting me (and me NOT hitting 2nd!)!

 

 

But ONE time I'll always remember,

Phill

 

So tell me Phill, what was my wife doing in your car? Oh, maybe it was just her twin! :redcard::banghead: :banghead:

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So tell me Phill, what was my wife doing in your car? Oh, maybe it was just her twin! :redcard::banghead::banghead:

 

 

They must be sisters from different parents.....

 

When I go fast on twistys, she just closes her eyes! lol

 

 

Phill

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Im fortunate,my wife is a major car person--shes drag raced with me,she was drivng,and did better time than me.Shes challenged me with her vette and beat me twice in my Shelby.--in my case it was the driver--shes got the paddle shifter and beat me in a strightline run each time--Im lucky

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Not really a question more a common on someting I find dumb on the part of Ford

 

Someone had mentioned in another thread, think it might have been member Keystone who came from a C5 ZO6 and now has his GT500. How the Vette's display can be toggled to display information for water temp, oil temp etc. The dumby needles barely ever move in my 97 when it comes to oil pressure, only on start up. I'd love to have a temp number like 180, 190 then looking down and seeing my water temp is a bit to the right of middle. I'd gladly give up the "my color" option for more detailed, water temp. oil temp gauages!!!

Edited by GOTVENOMGT500

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Not really a question more a common on someting I find dumb on the part of Ford

 

Someone had mentioned in another thread, think it might have been member Keystone who came from a C5 ZO6 and now has his GT500. How the Vette's display can be toggled to display information for water temp, oil temp etc. The dumby needles barely ever move in my 97 when it comes to oil pressure, only on start up. I'd love to have a temp number like 180, 190 then looking down and seeing my water temp is a bit to the right of middle. I'd gladly give up the "my color" option for more detailed, water temp. oil temp gauages!!!

 

 

I'll definitely second that opinion. I haven't even used "my color". I like the blue that is one of the default choices. My gauges are blue with the gauge halo being red. Anyway, having more info available in the info center would be great. I, for one, would like an instantaneous fuel mileage quote instead of just a bar graph.

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Performance upgrade question 1: What is the thinking behind what Supercharger upgrade to select from the 3 available. If you upgraded, why did you pick the one you did? I think I personally would lean towards the TVS kit from Ford Perf. and let the dealer install it.

 

Performance upgrade question 2: Has anybody started modding the *2011* GT500 yet? What have you modded?

 

Performance upgrade question 3: Are the brakes that come as part of the PP on the 2011 need upgrading? The rears seem a tad small....

 

-Wingrider

(On the hunt for a 2011)

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I, for one, would like an instantaneous fuel mileage quote instead of just a bar graph.

 

 

That is available to you now..just keep pressing the "info" button to the left of the steering wheel til it appears in the window. It will give you an instantaneous read out in miles per gallon - even with fractions of miles.

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I just got my 2011 convert last week....I love the car ....but how do you adjust the gurney flap on the spoiler...I just can't seem to make it move?????

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I just got my 2011 convert last week....I love the car ....but how do you adjust the gurney flap on the spoiler...I just can't seem to make it move?????

 

 

 

Kent Moore has a special tool for that. It is designated as "BFH" in the KM catalog.

 

Short story is, you *replace* the GF with a differnt one with different angles. At least that's *my* understanding.

 

And they are held on with foam tape so once you pull it off, you better have more foam tape to replace it with.

 

"Tuneable" my ass....

 

 

Phill

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Is the GT500 entirely assembled in Michigan? Then from there to the dealer? What does Shelby in Vegas have to do with the production of the car?

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Dave ~ The GT500's are fully assembled in Michigan, as far as I know Shelby gave input on the design of the GT500 at least that's what I read for the 07-09 not clear on his role in the 2010+ design.

 

The only the Shelby GT's, Shelby Hertz Editions (went to Hertz Rent-A-Car then later sold at Auction), Shelby GT500's that undergo the Super Snake Conversion/Anniversery Edition and all other Shelby Speical Editions (Terligua etc.) go to Vegas

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Ok, I have a stupid one.

 

How do I know when I need new brakes? I have about 13k on the GT, I'm finding I have to push the brakes a lot harder now when I stop, so there's definite wear on the pads. I can't really visibly see the brake pads to tell how much life they have left in them, and I wouldn't know what I was looking at if I could. If I take it to a shop, they'll see a blonde chick with a nice car, and tell me I need everything replaced. Soo... do I just wait until I hear obvious grinding? Probably not, right? :confused:

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Ok, I have a stupid one.

 

How do I know when I need new brakes? I have about 13k on the GT, I'm finding I have to push the brakes a lot harder now when I stop, so there's definite wear on the pads. I can't really visibly see the brake pads to tell how much life they have left in them, and I wouldn't know what I was looking at if I could. If I take it to a shop, they'll see a blonde chick with a nice car, and tell me I need everything replaced. Soo... do I just wait until I hear obvious grinding? Probably not, right? :confused:

 

well first check to see if your brake fluid is full up.If it is, and your not stopping its probably brake pads,which if you do alot of stop and go driving wouldn't be that unusual. have a guy drive it in to a full service place--it doesnt take long to check them out.If you bring it to a brake place, theyll tell you need brakes--good luck

Edited by Torched10

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What tire pressure is everyone running on the stock 2010 GT500 for routine use during the summer.

 

I assume it's different from front to rear since they are different sizes?

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Octane Question:The highest octane I can find in my town is 91. Our elevation is 5200ft. Will the shelby perform on 91 octane?

Steve

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Octane Question:The highest octane I can find in my town is 91. Our elevation is 5200ft. Will the shelby perform on 91 octane?

Steve

 

 

 

From the Shelby supplemental manual:

 

OCTANE RECOMMENDATIONS

Your vehicle is designed to use

“Premium” unleaded gasoline only,

with an (R+M)/2 octane rating of 91

or higher. SVT recommends using

unleaded gasoline with octane rating

of 93 or higher for optimal performance of this vehicle. Recommended

fuel is an important part of the proper maintenance and optimal

performance of this vehicle. The use of gasoline with an octane rating

lower than 91 can lead to severe mechanical damage to your vehicle,

may degrade vehicle performance, and may affect your warranty

coverage. Please see the Warranty Guide for complete information.

SVT does not recommend the use of gasoline labeled as Premium with

octane ratings of less than 91.

 

So, looks like you can use 91 but I'm reasonably sure the engine's computer "de-tunes" the engine accordingly, as you need 93 octane for "optimal" performance. My local service manager told me the car reacts to octane level and ethanol percentage of the fuel. That could explain the "my supercharger isn't turning on yet" complaint that some folks are complaining about even after 500+ miles of driving.

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What tire pressure is everyone running on the stock 2010 GT500 for routine use during the summer.

 

I assume it's different from front to rear since they are different sizes?

 

 

 

For street use, I'd run whatever is recommended on the spec plate on the driver's door frame

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Ok, I have a stupid one.

 

How do I know when I need new brakes? I have about 13k on the GT, I'm finding I have to push the brakes a lot harder now when I stop, so there's definite wear on the pads. I can't really visibly see the brake pads to tell how much life they have left in them, and I wouldn't know what I was looking at if I could. If I take it to a shop, they'll see a blonde chick with a nice car, and tell me I need everything replaced. Soo... do I just wait until I hear obvious grinding? Probably not, right? :confused:

 

 

Increased pedal effort is not necessarily a sign of worn pads. If the increased effort occurs during spirited driving (i.e. heavy repeated applications of the brakes) it is usually a sign of brake fade (a layer of vaporized gas/brake dust is literally coming between the pad and the rotor and is impairing brake effect). The solution here is bigger front brakes.

 

If it occurs first thing in the morning, the brakes may be cold and just need a few applications to warm up.

 

If it occurs all the time, it could be that the pads are contaminated with grease/oil, or that the power brake booster is defective

 

The structure of a disc brake pad is a metal backing plate with the friction material bonded or riveted to the backing plate. (Riveted is better/stronger). Disc brake pads come with a "wear indicator" that emits an audible squeal when the pads are worn to minimum acceptable thickness.

 

Basically, the indicator is just a small piece of spring steel about the size of a matchstick that is riveted to the pad backing plate, so that it projects about 2/32" above the backing plate of the pad. When the pad wears down to 2/32", the "squealer" makes contact with the moving rotor and emits a high-pitched squealing sound when you apply the brakes. I'm sure you've heard this sound coming from a car's brakes before. That squeal serves as an audible warning of low pad thickness, while not causing any harm to the rotor.

 

If you progress from a squealing sound to a heavy grinding sound, that means you have worn the friction material completely off and the metal backing plate of the pad is making contact with your rotor. That will rapidly result in irreversible rotor damage and that is $$$$$.

 

Now, if you get intermittent brake squeal, that could simply be dust or rust buildup. When the pads are worn to the "squealer", the noise will be consistent/constant. If they tell you need new brakes, march right into the shop and have the mechanic measure the thickness of the friction material while you stand there. Don't be afraid to ask questions of the tech, they usually like to teach.....If the friction material is less than 2/32 (i.e. 1/16") then you need new pads. If the rotors have a high ridge around the outside or are badly grooved, they will need to be turned or replaced.

Edited by KEYSTONE

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Increased pedal effort is not necessarily a sign of worn pads. If the increased effort occurs during spirited driving (i.e. heavy repeated applications of the brakes) it is usually a sign of brake fade (a layer of vaporized gas/brake dust is literally coming between the pad and the rotor and is impairing brake effect). The solution here is bigger front brakes.

 

If it occurs first thing in the morning, the brakes may be cold and just need a few applications to warm up.

 

If it occurs all the time, it could be that the pads are contaminated with grease/oil, or that the power brake booster is defective

 

The structure of a disc brake pad is a metal backing plate with the friction material bonded or riveted to the backing plate. (Riveted is better/stronger). Disc brake pads come with a "wear indicator" that emits an audible squeal when the pads are worn to minimum acceptable thickness.

 

Basically, the indicator is just a small piece of spring steel about the size of a matchstick that is riveted to the pad backing plate, so that it projects about 2/32" above the backing plate of the pad. When the pad wears down to 2/32", the "squealer" makes contact with the moving rotor and emits a high-pitched squealing sound when you apply the brakes. I'm sure you've heard this sound coming from a car's brakes before. That squeal serves as an audible warning of low pad thickness, while not causing any harm to the rotor.

 

If you progress from a squealing sound to a heavy grinding sound, that means you have worn the friction material completely off and the metal backing plate of the pad is making contact with your rotor. That will rapidly result in irreversible rotor damage and that is $$$$$.

 

Now, if you get intermittent brake squeal, that could simply be dust or rust buildup. When the pads are worn to the "squealer", the noise will be consistent/constant. If they tell you need new brakes, march right into the shop and have the mechanic measure the thickness of the friction material while you stand there. Don't be afraid to ask questions of the tech, they usually like to teach.....If the friction material is less than 2/32 (i.e. 1/16") then you need new pads. If the rotors have a high ridge around the outside or are badly grooved, they will need to be turned or replaced.

 

great answer,really

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Increased pedal effort is not necessarily a sign of worn pads. If the increased effort occurs during spirited driving (i.e. heavy repeated applications of the brakes) it is usually a sign of brake fade (a layer of vaporized gas/brake dust is literally coming between the pad and the rotor and is impairing brake effect). The solution here is bigger front brakes.

 

If it occurs first thing in the morning, the brakes may be cold and just need a few applications to warm up.

 

If it occurs all the time, it could be that the pads are contaminated with grease/oil, or that the power brake booster is defective

 

The structure of a disc brake pad is a metal backing plate with the friction material bonded or riveted to the backing plate. (Riveted is better/stronger). Disc brake pads come with a "wear indicator" that emits an audible squeal when the pads are worn to minimum acceptable thickness.

 

Basically, the indicator is just a small piece of spring steel about the size of a matchstick that is riveted to the pad backing plate, so that it projects about 2/32" above the backing plate of the pad. When the pad wears down to 2/32", the "squealer" makes contact with the moving rotor and emits a high-pitched squealing sound when you apply the brakes. I'm sure you've heard this sound coming from a car's brakes before. That squeal serves as an audible warning of low pad thickness, while not causing any harm to the rotor.

 

If you progress from a squealing sound to a heavy grinding sound, that means you have worn the friction material completely off and the metal backing plate of the pad is making contact with your rotor. That will rapidly result in irreversible rotor damage and that is $$$$$.

 

Now, if you get intermittent brake squeal, that could simply be dust or rust buildup. When the pads are worn to the "squealer", the noise will be consistent/constant. If they tell you need new brakes, march right into the shop and have the mechanic measure the thickness of the friction material while you stand there. Don't be afraid to ask questions of the tech, they usually like to teach.....If the friction material is less than 2/32 (i.e. 1/16") then you need new pads. If the rotors have a high ridge around the outside or are badly grooved, they will need to be turned or replaced.

 

 

Awesome, thanks!

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