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SGT/SC#0471

Hood Scoop, removing rivets...

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So after some thought I am removing my scoop and having new stripes reapplied (that I am buying) on the entire car as the SA warranty process on the stripes frankly sucks.

 

And after Chips post today I am going to cut a hole in my hood before I put the scoop back on. I have an extra fiberglass scoop so I'm all good for a future restoration to original on my 100th birthday....so saying all this, has anyone attempted to remove the rivets on the glass scoop? My fear is that after the drill bit gets it drilled that the exposed collar will spin on the scoop surface and scrape a circle into it, I really would like skipping the repaint of the scoop. I have never drilled out a poprivet on a painted surface that I wanted to preserve...thanks!

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I would just not worry about it and plan to paint the scoop, it will match the stripes perfect that way.... Any reason you want to avoid it?

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I would just not worry about it and plan to paint the scoop, it will match the stripes perfect that way.... Any reason you want to avoid it?

 

 

 

Just one more step...and I don't spray isocynate car paint. Just wondering what the trick is, if there is one?

 

Maybe grind off the stem from the inside? And the head should just push out?

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Mines not riveted on, so not sure if they are accessible with a grinder, but I would guess that could cause the top to move around and potentially scratch too... But if you can get to the bottoms, maybe having someone hold them with vicegrips while drilling from the top could keep them still.

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So after some thought I am removing my scoop and having new stripes reapplied (that I am buying) on the entire car as the SA warranty process on the stripes frankly sucks.

 

And after Chips post today I am going to cut a hole in my hood before I put the scoop back on. I have an extra fiberglass scoop so I'm all good for a future restoration to original on my 100th birthday....so saying all this, has anyone attempted to remove the rivets on the glass scoop? My fear is that after the drill bit gets it drilled that the exposed collar will spin on the scoop surface and scrape a circle into it, I really would like skipping the repaint of the scoop. I have never drilled out a poprivet on a painted surface that I wanted to preserve...thanks!

 

When I had the new scoop and stripes applied under warranty, I had the shop paint the scoop to match the stripes. Yes, the Shelby replacement stripe color did not match the replacement scoop! My scoop also has the stripe painted on and clear coated. Looks great! It cost $100 for the shop to do this.

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The shop that repainted the front of my car after Terlingua 08 also painted the hood scoop to match the stripes. You should have them paint the scoop even though you are applying vinyl stripes. Doesn't the scoop just have two vinyl sheets over it, a silver main sheet with a white stripe?

 

 

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No the scoops are painted and the center stripe (white) in my case is vynil. My scoup matches the stripes pretty good now. My theroy is everytime something gets painted it gets thicker and less like it was...and it's one more opprotunity for a problem...

 

My experience with pop rivets is when you drill them the heads snap and spin....maybe I will do a test with a piece of scrap material....

 

Jmn-the fiberglas scoups are riveted....

 

Thanks guys...I guess the other option is to have the dealership deal with it as is coming off under warranty, and I seriously think this gives them an opprotunity to not only lose it while the car is at the stripers but to screw it up...

 

FYI the extra scoop that I have in a box direct from SA comews prepainted with the vynil stripe seperate in a roll...

 

Cheers!

 

 

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Jmn-the fiberglas scoups are riveted....

 

 

 

Not all of them... At least mine wasn't... I think that they changed from the faux rivets (screw in) to the pop rivets for the 2008 SGT and most of the warranty replacements...

 

Here is my original scoop (note the warped sides)...

 

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Here is a picture of my scoop with longer faux rivets just before they were all tapped right into the hood itself...

 

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And here is the final result (note the scoop now flush with the contour of the hood)...

 

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And with the exception of the scoop itself developing a little bit of "dishing" near the front center (fixed in later versions of the replacement scoops) I haven't had one single problem with my $15 fix...

 

Remember this was done back in early 2008 when SAI & Ford Racing were trying fix after fix after fix just to find something that worked for everyone...

 

But if your scoop has been riveted in place then I would recommend using a Dremel tool and grinding off the bottom of the rivet(s) from underneath the actual hood... That way, if you do slip or something beyond your control happens, at least its on the side 99% of people won't see...

 

And I am also in favor of having the scoop re-painted to match the exact shade of the vinyl stripes that are being applied to the hood... That is unless you are happy with the match you currently have... Just make sure you test this out in direct sunlight, versus the artificial lighting in your garage or the bright lights at the body shop...

 

Good Luck!

 

Gregg

07SGT0547

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And I mis-read, thought you were painting stripes on... Makes sence to save the scoops finish if re-doing vinyl!

 

 

 

Yep I putting on vynil that does not blotch...in therory. The painter suggested skipping the paint as the vynil is more durable according to him....and is a whole buch different in cost...to boot.

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Thanks Gregg, I think you have a urethane scoop the final fix was a fiberglass one pop riveted on to the hood. I will post a picture later tonight of one off the car as I have a spare...

 

my old urethane scoop was "dished" as well or oilcanned. The edges were getting warpy too.

 

 

The glass one that it was repleced with is very good and fits great.

 

 

Access to the rear of the rivets is tenious at best due to bracing, I'll take pictures after I get back from dinner and post...thanks everyone....

 

 

 

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Thanks Gregg, I think you have a urethane scoop the final fix was a fiberglass one pop riveted on to the hood. I will post a picture later tonight of one off the car as I have a spare...

 

my old urethane scoop was "dished" as well or oilcanned. The edges were getting warpy too.

 

The glass one that it was repleced with is very good and fits great.

 

Access to the rear of the rivets is tenious at best due to bracing, I'll take pictures after I get back from dinner and post...thanks everyone....

 

 

 

 

Randy,

 

Mine has never actually been replaced... It has been removed a couple of times, but is still the original one that came with the car... In fact, very early on (Summer 2007) I did have a replacement sent from SAI (Direct from Bud...) but it actually fit worse than what I already had... So I sent it back to Vegas (had to pinky swear that I would return at least one of them) when I couldn't get it to line up with any of the pre-existing holes and stripes already on the car... And I wasn't about to let my local Ford Dealer take on the task of trying to fix it either... So that is why I went the route I did, and have avoided the entire Hood Scoop "Drama" that has played out for the past 3 years slapfight.gif

 

And I forgot that some of the rivets would not be accessible from under the hood because of the support structure... Like I said, it has been a couple of years since I did this headscratch.gif

 

But I wonder what SA / Ford Racing is going to do when all these SGTs finally go out of warranty??? Will we be able to order a replacement scoop if we want to pay the $$$... Not to mention how many of these "replacement scoops" are just sitting on a shelf somewhere collecting dust???

 

Maybe Roger will let us do a little looking around the warehouse during the Shelby Bash in January???

 

Gregg

07SGT0547

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But I wonder what SA / Ford Racing is going to do when all these SGTs finally go out of warranty??? Will we be able to order a replacement scoop if we want to pay the $$$... Not to mention how many of these "replacement scoops" are just sitting on a shelf somewhere collecting dust???

 

Gentlemen,

 

As I view original 1960's Shelby Mustangs at various shows and auctions, one of the things that always bugs me is how the original fiberglass hoods invariably warp or bow creating poorly fitted and unslightly seam lines around the edges of the hood. Those hoods often bow up because of spring tension where they are bolted to the latches (a real problem on 1967 models), or are slightly warped at their leading edges (especially on 1968 models). These "flies in the ointment" are seen even on award-winning examples and it bugs me.

 

My Shelby GT hood scoop bothered me the same way. In total, by the time I had finished doing research, design, and redesign, with an ungodly amount of very expensive aviation technician labor, I spent over $6,000 to build one perfect aviation grade vinyl ester resin fiberglass hood scoop for my personal Shelby. The cost of building additional units by hand is about 1/10 what I payed. I have no financial interest whatsoever nor do I make one penny when Heath sells one of these.

 

Made of aviation grade materials and capable of withstanding extreme heat as well as extreme cold, they will maintain perfect shape and last forever. As long as Heath is still around, for about $600 Shelby GT owners will have a place to go to procure a perfect hood scoop for their cars that can be used as a dummy scoop like the originals with the block off plate in front, or used as an open scoop because their strength and rigidity requires no internal bracing. If attached with rivets, nobody would ever be able to tell this was not an original although they would wonder how you got an original that wasn't warped. I suggest attaching them with rivet nuts which are much better looking, allow their removal and replacement in minutes, and allow owners to attach them with just the right amount of pressure.

 

No curling, no warping, no dips, no expansion or contraction, no more fighting this issue. All the best.

 

Chip

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Chip,

 

Glad to see you back here on the TS Forum. And GREAT write-up on your son's "science experiment" using the SGT Hood Scoop salute.gif

 

And don't get me wrong, but in a PERFECT WORLD (Or hopefully by 2011 or 2012) I would have one of Heath's scoops on my SGT in a heart beat...

 

Having seen and heard and read what most other people have been thru to get their OEM scoop replaced under warranty, I chose to ride out the storm...

 

I was merely speculating on what happens when the 3yr/36k warranty periods expire and there are "excess" replacement scoops just sitting around somewhere???

 

My assumption is that many more were made than have actually been installed during the past couple of years...

 

And I too just cringe when I see one of the 60's Shelbys with a Fiberglass Hood or other "original" body part that just doesn't fit right...

 

THANKS again to you and Heath for taking on this project...

 

Gregg

07SGT0547

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The final version of the scoop from SA is also a composite scoop with internal aluminum structure visible through the resin. Like you I have some experience with fiberglass, epoxies and have used them a bit in both sculpture, my old 1948 Bryant runabout and in other marine projects. I have a few folks I know whom I consider expert glass craftsmen. However, they are expert glassmen in the field of yachting and not avaition. Marine grade can be pretty great however, and I showed the SA scoop to one of these guys and it was considered "top notch work" which is what I thought as well.

 

I do not know if Roger (SA) is selling these with a CSM number or not, I bought this one privately from the owner of a dealership whom I met through an enthusiast site. I would hope that SA made some extra and they will be available from them but I would not hold my breath on that. Which is why I jumped on an extra one and will be cutting my hood open ala Mr. Beck. It is great to know that Heath has a great one available if all else fails, Thanks Chip, you the man!...Cheers!

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Now then.......:backtotopic: so anybody got any info on how to get the dang rivets out without screwing up the scoop paint?

 

I am hoping it can be done but done 25 times....its like an art installation job...white gloves please....haha!

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well having been in on the removal of prolly 500+ scoops there is no way to remove all rivets without "spinning one or two heads... with that being said i have seen a few that this did not happen. I would suggest a very sharp bit (maybe cobalt or carbide) and a very steady hand.. also a set of sawhorse type stands aid in the removal. (99% of scoop install and removal took place with the hood off the car). Drill out the top of all the rivets and lift scoop then finish removing what is left (push out drill out tap out) be careful not to dimple the hood.. good luck!!!

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well having been in on the removal of prolly 500+ scoops there is no way to remove all rivets without "spinning one or two heads... with that being said i have seen a few that this did not happen. I would suggest a very sharp bit (maybe cobalt or carbide) and a very steady hand.. also a set of sawhorse type stands aid in the removal. (99% of scoop install and removal took place with the hood off the car). Drill out the top of all the rivets and lift scoop then finish removing what is left (push out drill out tap out) be careful not to dimple the hood.. good luck!!!

 

 

 

says you, my dealer did mine ON the car. drilled through the hood...............................and right into my strut tower brace! :banghead:

 

i nearly killed their tech

 

love my dealer hate their body shop techs

Edited by ARMORINE

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I'm bumping a really old thread but looks like all the info is pertinent still and hope some of you guys are still around.

 

I am in the process of replacing my Shelby silver stripes. The original silver stripes are faded and water-spotted and need to go. The stripe removal is a whole other can of worms, with the car being 10 years old now.

 

From looking at the pics here, it appears that I have the "urethane version 1" of the scoop as it is a bit warped and does not follow the contour of the hood. All I want to do, for now, is to get the damn scoop off. I have read that some are bolted and some are riveted... When I look under the hood, there are 4 bolts that would appear to be holding the scoop on. Great, 4 bolts are much easier to remove than 30 rivets... but... I removed those bolts and went to pull the scoop off, but it won't budge in the slightest. So I figured it must be riveted on. Upon further inspection, I don't think it is riveted on, as I can take a piece of paper and slide it between the scoop and hood right past the rivets, making the me think the rivets must be fake. (There are 2-3 spots where the paper gets caught on something as I try to slide it b/w the hood and scoop but I think that is just where the scoop is pressing on the hood with more force). I also removed 6 or so hood insulation grommets to bring that insulation piece down enough so that I could see rivets, if they exist, but I wasn't able to see anything that looked like rivets.

 

So, with 4 bolts underneath removed and what appear to be fake rivets, how exactly does this scoop come off? I'm thinking maybe there is some double-sided tape or something(?). I did not fully close the hood and try pulling hard up on the scoop with bolts removed but just wary about excess force when it seems like it should just come off. Help appreciated! Thanks.

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Here is what should be the bottom of your scoup (scroll down a bit) - the thread also mentions where you can find rivits if you need them.

 

https://www.svtperformance.com/forums/threads/shelby-gt-hood-scoop.773892/

 

I recommend the fishing line trick to separate it from the hood:

 

https://www.autoblog.com/article/how-to-remove-car-emblems-autoblog-details/

 

 

Good luck, I'm sure others here will provide some tips as well.

Edited by mfield2a

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Wow that is very helpful. I'm pretty certain that is my same scoop. It looks like I'll need to take the hood insulation down a lot to find the other 4 bolts. The 4 bolts in the middle are obvious and don't require the insulation to come off, but the 2 near the front and 2 near the back are under the hood insulation. I read somewhere that the 2 most forward rivets of the scoop are lockscrews... I am unable to slide a piece of paper under the front corners so wonder if that is true... the fake rivets look exactly the same as the rest.

 

Once I get the scoop off I'll have a whole other can of worms.. and that is replacing the factory silver stripes. I've spent some time on it and it is very difficult and have only removed about 8" of a stripe on the roof. It is an aggravating and slow process and I think I need to look into purchasing a steamer (and some gloves). The good news is that the black paint underneath the factory stripe looks perfect and there is zero indication a stripe was ever there!

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A couple of years ago I had my local body shop guy remove and paint the strips on my GT/C. He used a pad called an eraser that was attached to a orbital polisher. Worked real good.

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YES! Got the scoop off. Looks like I indeed have the version one rubbery scoop. There were the 8 bolts and then the very most forward rivet on each side is a little hex screw. Next challenge is getting the stripes off.

 

Here is why the stripes need to be removed... they look terrible. You can tell what they once looked like. The car has 23k miles but always garaged.

 

Y5pRx5p.jpg

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Wow, for a garage car they look shotty, no wonder. Does the car sit in the sun much? I use convertible top cleaner on my stripes. You'll find that most of those have UV protectant in them. Not sure if it helps, but hasn't hurt. Mine still look new. I'm not sure if the stripes got better in '08 or not??

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The stripes didn’t get any better. I had the ones on my 08 removed due to the bad shape they were in and priced a new kit from Shelby and decided to have mine painted for less than it would cost for the kit and installation.

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YES! Got the scoop off. Looks like I indeed have the version one rubbery scoop. There were the 8 bolts and then the very most forward rivet on each side is a little hex screw. Next challenge is getting the stripes off.

 

Here is why the stripes need to be removed... they look terrible. You can tell what they once looked like. The car has 23k miles but always garaged.

 

 

 

 

Getting those off is not fun. It took me about 2 weeks to do it. This product works pretty good:

 

http://www.autotrimdesign.net/GraphXOff_Vinyl_Adhesive_Paint_Remover_GROG.asp

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I may try this. I've been shopping for a steamer, thinking that was the only way to get it done, but this stuff is a lot cheaper obviously. I was able to get the side stripes off pretty easily but the others are going to be a much bigger problem. I spent almost 2 hours on this little section on the roof... just using goo gone, a hair, dryer, and my fingernails. Got blistered and frustrated.. there must be a better way. As for replacement stripes, I think I've made my mind up... and that is to leave the side stripes deleted and replace the silver with matte black. My car is so far beyond stock anyhow that this additional departure from Shelby isn't a big deal, IMO, and should look good. Here is what the car looks like, BTW... I had just changed out the tails on it so the video focus's a lot on that.. I decided to keep 'em.

 

9MKdpF8.jpg

 

 

 

Getting those off is not fun. It took me about 2 weeks to do it. This product works pretty good:

 

http://www.autotrimdesign.net/GraphXOff_Vinyl_Adhesive_Paint_Remover_GROG.asp

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