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SGT/SC#0471

Hood Scoop, removing rivets...

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Yeah that Graphix Off I heard about from another member on here. Just brush it on with a paint brush and let it sit about 5 minutes then those come right off. It does not hurt the paint.

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A standard "blow dryer" doesn't get hot enough but a heat gun will - it does require care, however, it can melt plastic and burn paint! Best time to remove stripes is in the Summer - let it sit outside in the bright sun and this will help soften the vinyl. All you ever wanted to know about the scoops is in the Hood Scoop thread!

 

Sam

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Alright I'm going to tackle the original stripe removal soon. I have all the following stuff either purchased or on order:

 

- 1500W Steamer from Harbor Freight

- 16oz GraphxOff (and applicator brush)

- GraphxOff 3"x4" plastic scraper

- Plastic scraper that holds plastic razor blades (10ct of those)

- 8oz Goo Gone

- Lil Chizler scrapers (3pk)

 

I'm still dreading the job but having the right tools and working at my leisure in garage should get me through it...

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A professional removal will take care of all the tools, time and hassle. You will have to have a professional install them anyway, wont you?

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Just finished reading this old thread going back to Randy's original posts. Takes me down memory lane with all the original owners dealing with replacement strips, replacement hoods, and what type of rivet to use.

 

We have all come a long way since we purchased our Shelbys new.

 

GG

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The car has it's own place in the garage and isn't a DD, so I'll take my time and do it and then give it fresh wax. If it takes me 80 hours, so be it, but I'll take very good care of the paint. As for install of the new stripes... my plan right now is to do it myself. But that may change... that's obviously much easier but it also has to be done right fairly quickly... so 4 experienced hands working under lot of shop lights may be the way to go. I've installed vinyl on my Jeep and it isn't all that hard, but there just really isn't as much room for error with the Shelby.

 

A professional removal will take care of all the tools, time and hassle. You will have to have a professional install them anyway, wont you?

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I was quoted $1300 to have the stripes removed by a professional automotive vinyl graphics guy local to me and $500 by a semi-professional detailer.

 

Damaging the paint has been my greatest frear.

Edited by EL SHELBY

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Hard water (and any water period, left standing) on our stripes is a HUGE :nonono:

 

The sun added in for good measure on the above is the final dagger!!

 

I know guys that drive their cars all the time and have lots and lots of miles, and their stripes look like mine. It’s all about care and maintenance.

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Hotrod cam's? I can't make out the exhause on your car. What you got goin' on with that beast? The idle note is really good. ??

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Hotrod cam's? I can't make out the exhause on your car. What you got goin' on with that beast? The idle note is really good.

 

Yes. It's the original stock 4.6L, mod list copied from another forum below. I've had it on 2 dynos... one made 590whp and the other 530whp. The first dyno is known to read high so I take more stock in the second one. I haven't raced it in a year or two, but it reliably traps 118-120mph here in Denver, DA is usually around 6,000' ASL. I've never been good at launching it.... I can get 11.7x-11.9x "all day" but have landed a few runs in the 11.5x range.

 

ENGINE AND FUEL
4.6L 3V, STOCK, Dyno= 530rwhp (1.15CF, Carz Performance), Dyno=590whp (1.23CF, RWR Motorsports)
Whipple HO Supercharger Kit (3.1" pulley, 9.5PSI)
GT500 Fuel Pumps
Kenne Bell GT500 Dual Boost-a-pumps
60lbs Injectors
GT500 Throttle Body
Brenspeed Detroit Rocker Blower Cams
SCT Tuner on 91oct tune
N2MB WOT box (for LC and FFS)
MAFia MAF Extender
DRIVETRAIN
5 speed manual
Exedy 500 Clutch
One-Piece Aluminum Driveshaft
3.73 Gears
SLP Line Lock Kit
SUSPENSION
Ford Racing Suspension Kit
J&M Lower Control Arms
J&M Adjustable Rear Upper Control Arm
K-Member Brace
Sway Bar Relocation Kit
TIRES AND WHEELS
DarkStar 17x7 Front
Firestone Ziex 912 225/17/55 Front
DarkStar 17x9.5 Rear
Mickey Thompson Street Radial II 285/45/17 Rear
EXHAUST
Pypes Long Tube Headers
Pypes X-Pipes
Pypes High Flow Cats
Ford Racing Axle Back Mufflers
INTERIOR
MGW Rally Shifter
Roush Vent Pods
Carbon Fiber Boost and Fuel Pressure Gauges
Push to Start
EXTERIOR
Shelby Hood Pins
Shelby Window Covers
Shelby Fuel Door & Grille
Shelby Grille
Raxiom Gen5 2013 Style Tail Lights
MISCELLANEOUS
UPR Billet Tensioner
Sequential Lights
Shorty Antenna
Here is a run at the strip... sorry to hijack this thread and get it so off topic!
Edited by 07SGT3249

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Well I spent 90 minutes on the stripe removal project just now. I just used my new $79 Harbor Freight Steamer and some plastic razor blades and scraper holder for the blades for removal. I had to scrub a bit to get the adhesive off in just a few places, then washed the area and waxed it. I may wax it one more time, but I'm happy to report I've got the confidence and simple tools to do the job myself. I'll just tackle it in small pieces and take my time.... hmmm... time to start shopping for the matte black shelby-style stripes that will be going on once this is done...

 

exT9TZ8.jpg

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Just had a thought... I was planning on removing all the old silver stripes before installing new matte black stripes... but I think I'll have a much better install if I instead remove all the left side stripes, and install the new left side stripes before removing the right... then remove the right and install the right. This way, it will be quite easy to be sure and confident that the new stripes are lined up exactly right since I can use the old silver stripes as a guide to guarantee they are dead-on parallel and correct as they go on... makes sense, eh? So, I'll have a short period of time where I'll have new matte black left stripes and old milky silver stripes on the right... ha.. may drive it like that for a week or two.. but no more than that!

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Just had a thought... I was planning on removing all the old silver stripes before installing new matte black stripes... but I think I'll have a much better install if I instead remove all the left side stripes, and install the new left side stripes before removing the right... then remove the right and install the right. This way, it will be quite easy to be sure and confident that the new stripes are lined up exactly right since I can use the old silver stripes as a guide to guarantee they are dead-on parallel and correct as they go on... makes sense, eh? So, I'll have a short period of time where I'll have new matte black left stripes and old milky silver stripes on the right... ha.. may drive it like that for a week or two.. but no more than that!

Makes sense to me if you are sticking with vinyl

 

Have you thought about painting them on ?

 

Also what are you going to do about the hood scoop, only vinyl on that is the center stripe.

 

Good luck

Edited by andrewnagle1964

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Yep I'm sticking with vinyl. I'll probably need to go through this every 8-10 years, I guess. I don't have a plan yet for the hood scoop, but definitely need to figure something out. I'm thinking that I'll finish the job and take the car to a body shop and have them paint the silver scoop and match it with the matte black of the new vinyl. At that point, not sure whether I'll have them paint it two-tone (with non-matte black center stripe) or just leave the vinyl.

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If your car is in the garge and you are using UV protectant on the strips they should last a long time.

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Yep I'm sticking with vinyl. I'll probably need to go through this every 8-10 years, I guess. I don't have a plan yet for the hood scoop, but definitely need to figure something out. I'm thinking that I'll finish the job and take the car to a body shop and have them paint the silver scoop and match it with the matte black of the new vinyl. At that point, not sure whether I'll have them paint it two-tone (with non-matte black center stripe) or just leave the vinyl.

 

after painting the scoop matt black, I would stick with vinyl for the scoop strip since you are going vinyl for the stripes

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Unexpected snag on my stripe removal... apparently my hood has an extra layer of clearcoat on it, but only where the stripes weren't. Now that the hood stripes are nearly off, I've got some pretty clear lines running the length of the hood. Unfortunately, while scraping and working the vinyl off, some places where the clearcoat stopped became jagged and or white (where wax borders it.) When I put the new stripes on, I will need to increase the center gap between stripes by around a quarterinch so that I can move the stripes outward so that they nicely cover the line on the hood by about an 18'" where the clearcoat line is.

 

As for this extra layer of clearcoat, I have no idea why it is there. It was not on the roof and I'm near positive the car has never had anything close to an accident (I am the second owner but the original owner just put it in shows and drag raced it and drove it on the weekends).

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Maybe it is not clearcoat and it is hardened wax? There should be zero clearcoat on the stripes or around/up to them, unless the car was worked on paint wise.

Hmmmmm.

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Well dang it... there is indeed extra clear coat, a thick layer of it, on one side of the hood, but not the other. I can't believe it. It abutted the stripe so I never noticed it and both sides of the hood otherwise appear to have an identical finish.

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I will make my own thread on this project shortly... but for now.. I've got the entire front end stripped, cleaned, and waxed. The new matte stripes came in the mail today. I never measured my original silver Shelby stripes but through this forum gathered that they were 10" wide. Well, turns out my original stripes were just 9" wide and the new ones that came are a bit bigger than advertised at almost 10.5" width each. This should look really good and will nicely cover the clear coat seam I've got on the hood. Love when things actually work out better than planned. I'm now 60% done with the stripe removal process and won't have much time to work on it the next week or so... it is time consuming. I've probably got 10 or so hours into the job now.

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I have done the replacement stripe project myself so I know what your going through. Looks like yours is going very well. Please post some pics. I did a scoop removal and replacement with rivet nuts with my project. I must admit I did not have the patience for the job and hired someone. Got some advice from Bud when he was with Shelby. I needed the paint code for the red color on my Shelby GT/BJ scoop for the Body Shop doing my work. Bud gave a few tips on how they installed stripes at Shelby during original build. I remember him saying make sure you lay down a middle dividing removable hood stripe to keep both hood stripes the same distance on the front as it starts from hood running forward down on the front bumper.

 

Thanks for your updates.......... GG

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Thanks guys. It is going pretty well, it is just so tedious but I've got good lighting and a big garage with a nice stereo and this isn't my DD, so I'm just tackling it in 60-90 minute increments.

 

As for stripe removal, here is what is working for me:

 

1) Steam in 2-3" areas, often continuing to apply heat (I'm using a steamer but a heat gun would probably work just as well) while pulling with fingers

2) I'm using a 3"x4" plastic scraping tool to get up enough stripe material to then work it with my fingers

3) While pulling with my fingers, the key is to pull gently but firmly and steadily and apply just enough heat to make this possible

4) After stripe is removed, I'm using the GraphXOff product to remove adhesive residue left behind. (Goo Gone is completely worhtless for this). I am brushing it on, letting it sit a minute, and using that same plastic scraper tool to work the adhesive free.

5) After adhesive removal, there is still a lot of leftover sticky swirly scum and at that point I'm using Goo Gone and paper towels over and over to work that residue free.

6) Then I am waxing and buffing (but, I will remove the wax prior to new stripe install).

 

Here are a couple pictures... one is the hood stripes mostly removed, another is the whole front end removed and cleaned up, and the 3rd shows the new stripe width compared to original stripes..

 

K3m9NA0.jpg

 

EE94ZWi.jpg

 

BT0ogv6.jpg

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"...4) After stripe is removed, I'm using the GraphXOff product to remove adhesive residue left behind. (Goo Gone is completely worhtless for this). I am brushing it on, letting it sit a minute, and using that same plastic scraper tool to work the adhesive free.

5) After adhesive removal, there is still a lot of leftover sticky swirly scum and at that point I'm using Goo Gone and paper towels over and over to work that residue free. ..."

My go-to adhesive remover is whatever Spray-n-Wash evolved into (Resolve?). A little spray, a little wait, a little wipe—done. It works on an enzyme principle, so the non-mineral stuff is eaten by the enzymes, transforming it to gooey but non-adhesive stuff.

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Well I got quite a bit more work done on this but wow everything is just so time-consuming.  I thought putting the new stripes on would take far less time than removing the old, but it is also taking me forever.  Here are some updates...

First, fully stripped of stripes, finally!

 

R3z4xAZ.jpg

Getting ready for the first stripes.. figured I'd start with the trunk working in smaller sections...

EMuETBC.jpg

And this is how it sits this morning... the trunk is done, except putting the Shelby lettering back one, and I am dreading the rear bumper and getting the cut-out for the license area just perfect.  I was not excited about putting that gawdy chome circle trunk badge on and didn't think it would go well with the muted matte black stripes.. so I have this SHR black matte billet trunk emblem coming in the mail...  https://www.americanmuscle.com/shr-black-medallion-0509-plain.html

bgqeNLc.jpg

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