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New Extreme front brakes installed but leaking.......

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Spoke with Rick at Baer this AM - 75 ft - lbs for the black 12pt bolts - will be taking care of that this evening - and then waiting for the rain to stop - again...

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To keep this discussion going since I also had no instructions - on the outside of the brake calipers are two black bolts, 12 point I believe - mine were completely loose, free spinning - I tightened them but was wondering if they needed to be tightened more and if so how much - going to call Baer this morning but thought I would post up here in case anyone else already has an answer - have anew rattle in the front end now and wondering if it is the calipers

 

 

75 lbs. The bracket mounting bolts are torqued to 85 lbs.

 

My brakes are still making some good noise. I called Baer this morning and they said to put at least 100 - 200 miles on them to see if the noise goes away.

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Just an update. I took a video, with audio, of the noise my brakes were making and sent it to Baer. The noise is a scraping noise and is definitely coming from the rotor/pad contact. It's loud enough that people look at me when I drive by. It did this on both wheels (front) when I first installed them. After about 45 miles they are quiet when driving until they get warm and then the sound only comes from the right side. Baer said to put more miles on them and let them know how they are. I need to get enough miles on them and then season the pads per the instructions.

 

I will say that the sound was obnoxious enough that, if I had them professionally installed, I would have immediately returned to the mechanic. No mechanic would have let the car leave the shop with this sound. I have to say that I was skeptical that it would go away but it's definitely changing.

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I'm glad they are working with you on this issue. Worse case scenario they change them out (i know you don't even want to think of that option). Thanks for keeping us updated.

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I've driven the car quite a bit more and put, maybe, 100 miles on the car. It's certainly getting quieter. I swear it would never have gotten quieter with all the noise it was making. Once they warmed up the right front was incredibly noisy. I've tried not to get get them too hot trying to drive "like a commuter" so I'll keep doing that for another couple hundred miles.

 

But, just in case others have an install that are so noisy they sound like something is wrong just drive it!

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I just don't get it Parshal. Since i last posted i have put another 150 miles on the brakes and no leakage (i am confident now and can take the 10MM wrench out of the glovebox!), but they are as quiet as the stock one's were before being removed.....i wonder if anyone else is having your symtom's.

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I've driven the car quite a bit more and put, maybe, 100 miles on the car. It's certainly getting quieter. I swear it would never have gotten quieter with all the noise it was making. Once they warmed up the right front was incredibly noisy. I've tried not to get get them too hot trying to drive "like a commuter" so I'll keep doing that for another couple hundred miles.

 

But, just in case others have an install that are so noisy they sound like something is wrong just drive it!

 

 

 

STOP! Before you continue to "just drive it", I found the problem with mine (same symptom as you describe).

 

I just installed a set of Baer Extreame 6S brakes on the front of my 2010 GT500 and had the same exact symptom/noise. When driving the car I could hear a whoosh-whoosh sound that got faster as the car went faster. I drove it along side of a sound wall I have in my neighborhood, in both directions and I pinpointed it to the left front wheel.

 

This was on my shake down cruise so I was only 2 blocks from home. I immediately took the car home and jacked up the front end then put it on stands.

 

I could rotate the left front wheel by hand and it would make the noise in either direction. I used the valve stem as a indicator and noted that it would start to make the noise when the valve stem was at 1 o'clock until it got to 6 o'clock and vice versa (6 to 1). That's 165 degrees of wheel rotation, nearly half of the full rotation.

 

It sounded like the pad was sitting at a angle to the rotor during the noise making period..like the leading edge of the pad was catching the slots in the rotor, but only for 165 degress of rotation.

 

By all indications that is the symptoms of a warped rotor. No problem, it's easy enough to check with a dial indicator.

 

I pulled the wheel off and used a couple of 3/8" thick spacers on two opposing wheel studs then tightened the rotor to the hub using two lug nuts opposite of each other (to simulate the wheel being on the hub).

 

I turned the rotor until it just started making the noise and made a mark across the outside edge of the rotor with a black sharpie (at the top edge of the caliper). I continued to turn the rotor until the noise stopped and marked it again. Then I ran a red sharpie along the outside edge of the rotor give me a indication where the noisey area was (in preperation for using the dial indicator to see if the rotor was warped).

 

I loosened the 2 14mm 12-pt nuts that hold the caliper onto the mouting bracket and noticed that as I got the nuts to "just past finger tight" (on the tight side, not on the loose side) the noise would nearly completely disappear. The noise was still there but MUCH less pronounced and for far less degrees of rotor rotation.

 

I pulled the caliper and decided to try a old trick...take the sharp edges off of the new pad with a file. I pulled the outter pad, took it to my bench and lightly chamfered the leading/trailing edges of the pad, including the two slots in the center area of the pad with a file.

 

I went to put the outer pad back in the outer position and had another idea...switch the inner and the outer pads with each other. So rather than put the outer pad back in and remove the inner pad, I pulled the inner pad so I could chamfer the edges on it before puttting it back in the outer position.

 

AH HA! I found what I suspected to be the problem.

 

The anti rattle clip that sits between the outside edge of the pads and the caliper is supposed to be held in place with 4 small keepers (tabs). The anti rattle clip fell out of the caliper and into my hand. I checked the right side with a flashlight and sure enough, the 4 little tabs were where they're suppose to be....holding the anti rattle clip in place through the square hole in the center of the caliper.

 

It took a little work but I was able to get the 4 "keeper" tabs back into the center hole on the left caliper. I put the pads back in, put the caliper back on, tightened the two 14mm 12-pt nuts up to spec and BINGO...no more noise!

 

Not ANY noise. NONE. Dead silent. Apparently the anti rattle clip was cocking the pad/s and causing the sharp leading/trailing edge to catch the slots in the rotor.

 

It's easy enough to check. Pull your wheel and look inside the hole in the center of the caliper and you should see the four VERY SMALL keeper tabs sticking into the hole and holding the anti rattle clip in place. If you pull your pads, the anti rattle clip SHOULD STAY IN PLACE, NOT FALL OUT.

 

Driving it until the noise goes away is just a band-aid. All you're doing it wearing the pad at a angle to match the mis-matched angle caused by the misaligned pad due to the anti rattle clip being out of place...

 

Try it. I'll damn near put money on it that your anti rattle clip is not being kept in place by the keepers, just like mine was.

 

You've got nothing to lose but a little bit of time.

 

On the other subject of leaky/loose bleeder screws:

 

My bleeders are also like all the others noted here. I noticed that as you screw them in, just before they seat, they "wobble" in the threaded hole. That indicates to me that they slightly over bored the hole. The bleeder should go in straight and tight (not too tight but tight enough that it won't WOBBLE in the threads).

 

They are aluminum calipers so be very careful about over tightening them or you can easily pull the threads from the bleeder hole. I'm about as tight as I'm comfortable with and I get a SLIGHT seep over time, with the brake pedal depressed (firmly).

 

I don't know if they make oversized bleeders or not but a +.001 or +.002 oversized bleeder valve would be nice to try. My bet is it would cure this problem....and it DOES appear to be a problem as you can see I am not the only one that has the leaking/seeping bleeders on his Shelby/Baers.

 

 

HTH,

Phill

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.....i wonder if anyone else is having your symtom's.

 

 

Yeah, ME!

 

See my prior post regarding the problem and the fix.

 

 

Phill Pollard

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AH HA! I found what I suspected to be the problem.

 

The anti rattle clip that sits between the outside edge of the pads and the caliper is supposed to be held in place with 4 small keepers (tabs). The anti rattle clip fell out of the caliper and into my hand. I checked the right side with a flashlight and sure enough, the 4 little tabs were where they're suppose to be....holding the anti rattle clip in place through the square hole in the center of the caliper.

 

It took a little work but I was able to get the 4 "keeper" tabs back into the center hole on the left caliper. I put the pads back in, put the caliper back on, tightened the two 14mm 12-pt nuts up to spec and BINGO...no more noise!

 

....

 

It's easy enough to check. Pull your wheel and look inside the hole in the center of the caliper and you should see the four VERY SMALL keeper tabs sticking into the hole and holding the anti rattle clip in place. If you pull your pads, the anti rattle clip SHOULD STAY IN PLACE, NOT FALL OUT.

 

 

Baer did say that they had a person with a clip that was dragging on the outside of the rotor so I took a look at exactly what you describe. I even went so far as to mark the outside of the rotor with a sharpie to see if I'd see any drag marks but I didn't see any. I never saw anything odd on the clips as you describe but I think I'll take the caliper off the roter and swap them like you did. I may find the clips just fall out but certainly swapping the two isn't going to hurt anything.

 

On a different note, I've got 200 miles on them so far and the noise is gone. I haven't gotten on the brakes and gotten them hot yet so it could easily come back.

 

Thanks Kona, I'll be looking again tonight for what you posted. Like you said, it can't hurt!

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Kudos to Kona!!! Just to note, I had investigated this very thing but without pulling out the brake pads. I looked at the back of the calipers when assembled and was looking for misaligned retention clips per Baer. I even sharpied the edge of the rotor figuring a dragging clip would scratch the black ink. Nope! The clip was still tight in the passenger side but the two top ones were not completely seating and had wear marks from the rotors. The

driver's side clip fell out and had some wear marks, too, but this side wasn't making any noise. I wasn't able to drive it after reassembly due to rain but there's no doubt this was contributing to the squeaky sound I've been hearing from the passenger side. The scraping sound has mostly gone away but I'd not gotten on the brake real hard in a while and that's when the sound was worst. I expect all the noise to be gone.

 

Thanks for making me take a closer look Kona.

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Great info. Mine are still doing well and i'm glad you guys have yours working correctly. Nice post Kona. Now on to my VMP TVS supercharger install!

 

 

Are you installing it or is Justin?

 

I just installed a FRPP/Whipple 2.9 on my 2010 GT500 and it was pretty easy. The hardest part was hoisting that heavy MF'r up onto the intake (having had 7 back surgeries and doing it by myself!). Oh, no...I know. Getting that freakin' SC drive belt back on was a MAJOR bitch (then I put the Shelby/Metco secondary idler pulley on too!). I think I got more cuts on my hands/arms doing that then I got in the last 5 years of being a professional mechanic!!! I found that taking both the radiator and intercooler degas bottles off and setting them aside makes ALL the difference in the world! (it gives you room to work).

 

If you're doing the install yourself I've heard the TVS install is about 10 times easier that the Whipple so like the Monkey who stuck his tail in the fan said, "It shouldn't be long now!"

 

 

Have fun, enjoy,

Phill

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I purchased the Shelby Extreme Brakes, (thank's to Jer's summer Sale) and started researching install information and I came across these posts about the bleeder valves leaking.

I was wondering if anyone has installed the extreme brakes recently and had the same problem with the bleeder valves leaking.

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A heads up from my research on this. I had these put on my GT/SC and they leaked. I was surprised because my mechanic usually gets it right. From what I am seeing you have to tighten the fittings almost like you are using a tap and die. Tighten, back off, tighten a little more, back off, etc. From what I understand this is the trick to no leaks. It is an especially hard aluminum alloy that causes the need for this.

 

FWIW these 6 piston brakes are fantastic!

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Thanks for the reply. Great info.

I was concerned about over tighting the bleeder valve or stripping out the threads.

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Mine are leaking at the bleeders. Just took it for a drive and pulled over to take a check of everything. There was fluid on two wheels. Pulled the wheels off and cleaned everything real well before the fluid ruins something. Gonna try tightening them more but I was afraid to do that. They are really tight.

 

Mine are also really noisy. It was embarrassing going down my road. The front rotors were screaming as I drove down the street. Uuuuggghhhhhhh.

 

My 6P's that I had on another car were awesome, no noise or leaks.

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Mine are leaking at the bleeders. Just took it for a drive and pulled over to take a check of everything. There was fluid on two wheels. Pulled the wheels off and cleaned everything real well before the fluid ruins something. Gonna try tightening them more but I was afraid to do that. They are really tight.

 

Mine are also really noisy. It was embarrassing going down my road. The front rotors were screaming as I drove down the street. Uuuuggghhhhhhh.

 

My 6P's that I had on another car were awesome, no noise or leaks.

 

 

One side on mine were real noisy too. I found a pad that wasn't seated in the anti rattle clip just right. VERY hard to see but upon CLOSE inspection, I found it. Set the pad/clip in so it was right and the noise completely went away. I've seen lots of others that Baer told to drive until the noise goes away but that's not fixing the problem, just wearing the pad out to fit the rotor (the pad is slightly cocked so one edge catches the holes/slots).

 

The leaking bleeders are also common and I had THAT problem too. I'd loosen then tighten quickly to get the bleeder seated. I eventually had to tighten the SNOT out of the bleeders. You can get them to leak if you stand on the brake pedal with the wheels off but they don't leak under normal usage.

 

Try those two things and I'll bet'cha your noise AND leaks go away.

 

 

Been there done that,

Phill

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One side on mine were real noisy too. I found a pad that wasn't seated in the anti rattle clip just right. VERY hard to see but upon CLOSE inspection, I found it. Set the pad/clip in so it was right and the noise completely went away. I've seen lots of others that Baer told to drive until the noise goes away but that's not fixing the problem, just wearing the pad out to fit the rotor (the pad is slightly cocked so one edge catches the holes/slots).

 

The leaking bleeders are also common and I had THAT problem too. I'd loosen then tighten quickly to get the bleeder seated. I eventually had to tighten the SNOT out of the bleeders. You can get them to leak if you stand on the brake pedal with the wheels off but they don't leak under normal usage.

 

Try those two things and I'll bet'cha your noise AND leaks go away.

 

 

Been there done that,

Phill

 

 

 

Hey Phill, I thought I remember reading a thread on this (the leaking) some time ago.

 

'Seems there was a thread pitch misalignment or some-damn-thing. I checked mine then and believe there was a small amount showing as I remember but this seems to be very common with the Baer Extreme's.

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Hey Phill, I thought I remember reading a thread on this (the leaking) some time ago.

'Seems there was a thread pitch misalignment or some-damn-thing. I checked mine then and believe there was a small amount showing as I remember but this seems to be very common with the Baer Extreme's.

 

 

Yeah, there is a thread on this somewhere with many different opinions and solutions. And yes, apparently a VERY common problem.

 

I think it came down to the hole being slightly too large and I think someone said you can get oversized bleeders (in the thousandths of a inch range).

 

I say, I THINK....

 

The rotor noise may or may not be in a separate thread but I remember that being a topic too.

 

 

Phill

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Yeah, there is a thread on this somewhere with many different opinions and solutions. And yes, apparently a VERY common problem.

 

I think it came down to the hole being slightly too large and I think someone said you can get oversized bleeders (in the thousandths of a inch range).

 

I say, I THINK....

 

The rotor noise may or may not be in a separate thread but I remember that being a topic too.

 

 

Phill

 

 

 

Yep, you're right that's what it was. I remember the oversized bleeders.

 

Hmmm, I'm going to take another look at mine tomorrow.

Edited by SSSNAKE

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I figured out the loud noise on my brakes. I have 2013 backing plates and they don't fit correctly with the Baer setup. They hit the back of the rotor. I had to massage them a little to make them fit proporly.

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I figured out the loud noise on my brakes. I have 2013 backing plates and they don't fit correctly with the Baer setup. They hit the back of the rotor. I had to massage them a little to make them fit proporly.

 

 

Ouch. On my 2010, I had (by the instructions) to remove the backing plates.

 

I tried to use a FRPP early style of brake duct kit and the 'stamped metal' backing plate hit my rotors. I got a Boss version and with just a LITTLE machine work on the standoffs it works fine.

 

Wait a second, I didn't think the 2013 had backing plates. I thought they just have some small guards to protect the tie-rod ends???

 

 

Phill

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Ouch. On my 2010, I had (by the instructions) to remove the backing plates.

 

I tried to use a FRPP early style of brake duct kit and the 'stamped metal' backing plate hit my rotors. I got a Boss version and with just a LITTLE machine work on the standoffs it works fine.

 

Wait a second, I didn't think the 2013 had backing plates. I thought they just have some small guards to protect the tie-rod ends???

 

 

Phill

 

 

Yup, just the little guards. They still hit the rotors. A couple taps with a hammer and they are now fine.

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I've read this thread several times in the past, and I have to ask the question. Has anyone applied teflon thread tape to the bleeders? I would think that would work very well. I just got my extreme brakes and I will be doing it that way to avoid the squirts... oops, I mean leaks :lol:

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After thinking about this, I'm going to guess that the bleeders are leaking from the inside diameter, not the thread area.

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After thinking about this, I'm going to guess that the bleeders are leaking from the inside diameter, not the thread area.

 

That is correct.

 

My observation is that the tapped/threaded hole is just *slighty* too big so the bleeder wiggles around in it and the tapered tip doesn't seal right.

 

I'm too chicken to tighten it too much for fear of stripping the aluminum caliper body out and having a expensive paper-weight sitting around.

 

 

Phill

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When I installed the Shelby Extreme front brake system, just like everyone else, I initially had an issue with leaking around the bleeders. I figured it was a seat issue even thought the bleed screw fit in the caliper body was a lot looser than what I was accustomed. Anyway, I kept loosing and tightening each bleeder, going a little tighter each time, and then checking for leaks in between each loosening-tightening sequence. Eventually, no leak, not even a slight weep around either bleeder. And that has been almost 2 years ago. I forget what torque setting I was up to, but I bet it was 30 ft-lbs or more. Very un-nerving to apply that kind of torque to a bleed screw, but it worked.

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Finally installed my bears last weekend but didn't perform a shake down drive until this morning. I had a similar sound from the right front. Pulled the tire and also found the anti-rattle clip issue. Pulled the caliper and pads and reinstalled the clip. Got the tire back on and spun the wheel. I still had the rhythmic grinding sound. I continued the spin the tire looking to pinpoint the sound. Once pinpointed I found a very small speck of slag on the rotor face that I could just catch my finger nail on. It looked like it landed on the rotor after it was machined so I took a flat screwdriver and was able to quickly scratch the slag away. Spun the wheel again, no more rhythmic sound. I check the other side, anti-rattle clip looked good. Went for another drive and all it good.

 

Knowing about the leaking issues I did as everyone else and loosened/tightened up the 30lbs. No leaks from the bleeder but I do still have an ever so slight seep at the threads. The fluid hasn't traveled any further than the thread and I've been able to wick it up with a shop towel. I'll keep an eye on it and will contact Baer for the newer bleeders if it continues. I'm not going to tighten any more than 30lbs.

post-24566-0-65306200-1397327392_thumb.jpg

Edited by EL SHELBY

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Make sure the bleeder screws do seal and keep an eye on that area where you saw brake fluid, it will damage the powder coat on those calipers.

 

 

 

R

Edited by Robert M

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