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Title says it all. Looks great, drives even better and I haven't even done a wheel alignment yet. Installed FR3 handling pack, Fays2 watts link, BMR LCA's and relocation brackets, BMR adjustable UCA and poly differential bushing, FRPP SVT373 axle, Baer eradispeed 2 rotors and Hawk ceramic pads on all four corners. No ratlles, no sqeaks and NO wheel hop !!!!!! Brakes are a tad noisy but it seems to be fading as I go through the Hawk recommended "bedding in" procedure.

 

Some things I learned along the way

 

- a small tube of loctite is not enough to install all the parts listed above and the new gel type, although more expensive is a lot less messy

 

- the adjusting hardware on the adjustable UCA is larger (1-1/2") than the largest wrench I had on hand

 

- the Fays2 watts link does not interfere with the FRPP finned diff cover that comes on the new FRPP SVT373 axle assembly, it clears by about 3/8"

 

-an "on car" ball joint press works perfectly to remove and press-in the differential bushing along with a generous amount of anti-sieze (thanks Tob!) keep in mind that my axle assembly was already out of the car and there may not be enough room for the ball joint press to fit if the axle is still in car.

 

-drilling a series of 3/8" holes and using a wire wheel works well to remove the rubber from the diff bushing. (be careful not to mess up the inside surface of the bushing shell with the drill bit)

 

-forget about using the factory bolt that secures the rear of the BMR UCA to the differential as it has an "interference tab" on it to aid in loosening/tightening. Problem is there is nothing on the BMR UCA for this tab to catch on like the stock unit has. The head of the bolt has been machined to hold the tab on and there isn't enough area for a wrench or socket to grab onto with enough grip to get it torqued to the required 129lb-ft. I picked up a new bolt and nut from Fastenal

 

-the instructions that come with the Shelby/Fays2 watts link are pretty decent but I would take the time to read through them a few times so you don't end up taking things back apart like I did.

 

-you can change the stock front Brembo brake pads in about 5 minutes.

 

-having your car torn apart for 3+ weeks in the middle of summer blows!

 

-this write-up has a ton of great information http://www.cherod.com/mustang/HowTo/LCA%20_adj.htm

 

-There are a lot of very helpful, very knowledgeable folks here on TS, well, I guess I already knew that one!

 

Chip

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Well done.

Now enjoy the car for awhile before the next round.

Edited by JimC

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Good for you, brother. Enjoy that bad boy!

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Congrats on the new set-up Wingsnut !!!! , and thanks for your write-up. Now drive it like you stole it and go Red Wings !!!

 

Scotty G.

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Thanks everyone.......mod bug bit again this morning..........MGW shifter now installed! Huge difference. Stock shifter in this car was junk.

Chip

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Just curious, how does it ride, harder or firmer, with the FR3 installed? I am interested, but the roads in Iowa are terrible to begin with.

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Just curious, how does it ride, harder or firmer, with the FR3 installed? I am interested, but the roads in Iowa are terrible to begin with.

 

 

 

The dampers are adjustable and I have mine set at the halfway point between softest and firmest. I have not tried any other settings. The ride is slightly rougher than stock but nothing that bothers me.

Chip

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Thanks everyone.......mod bug bit again this morning..........MGW shifter now installed! Huge difference. Stock shifter in this car was junk.

Chip

 

 

 

Oh, if only it could stop there. that mof bug critter is one hungery little sob and once it fines that green sugar mother load its just keeps on a comen' back.

 

Nice to hear it is worken' out, and I know you gots to be have fun get use to your new and imporived ride- I bet you have a big old smile on.

 

Put some good tranny oil in if you havent already does so, and it will shift even better.

Edited by JimC

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Thanks everyone.......mod bug bit again this morning..........MGW shifter now installed! Huge difference. Stock shifter in this car was junk.

Chip

 

 

How difficult was the MGW shifter installation? Did you have it on a lift? Or jack stands? Details please. I'm considering getting one and I don't know if I'm gonna do it myself or take it to the shop. Thanks in advance.

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How difficult was the MGW shifter installation? Did you have it on a lift? Or jack stands? Details please. I'm considering getting one and I don't know if I'm gonna do it myself or take it to the shop. Thanks in advance.

 

 

Shifter install was pretty straight forward. I did mine on a lift. If I didn't have a lift I would use two sets of ramps to get front and rear of vehicle both off the ground a bit. What I found the most difficult was getting the clips off of the shifter arms where they attach to the tranny. It also took a few minutes to figure out how to get the old shifter snaked up into the interior of the car for removal. I removed the rear trans mount and lowered my transmission down a little for better access. You will want ot remove the speed sensor and reverse lockout from the sides on the tranny for better access as well. MGW has install videos post on their website

http://www.mgwltd.com/GT500_shifter_installation.shtml

The one thing I am not sure about is after I finished installing the shifter I found a small bag with a couple of inserts in it that says "soft" on it and I'm not really sure where they go. I am assuming they are an extra set. As far as the adjusting the throw... I originally had mine at 5 turns, that was a little notchy for me so last night when I changed out my tranny fluid I set it at 4 and it feels perfect to me.

HTH

Chip

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