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Baer/Shelby calipers

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My paint on the baers is also not perfect from the the inside seals of the pistons leaking. I track the car alot so I am not worried about the looks.

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I heard about this issue, I believe on this forum. I've had mine installed for 6K and no problems. I do keep an eye on them.

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I installed the Shelby Front Extreme brakes and mine did leak some initially, but not enough to ruin the paint. It took several attempts to get the bleeders seated and tight enough not to weep. I have never tightened bleeders as tight these needed to be to stop the weeping. No problems since the initial install. There is a thread on Team Shelby about this issue with these calipers.

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Others have had a problem. There's a thread about it on TS, Ford GT500, or SVTP. I don't remember which one.

Steve

 

 

It's here, on Team Shelby.

 

I was in on the thread. Mine leaked and like someone else said, I've never had to tighten bleeder valves as tight as I had to tighten these.

 

I think someone from Baer actually chimed in and gave a torque spec for their bleeder valves.

 

The problem is, the threads are cut/tapped *slighty* oversize so the bleeder want to 'rock' in the threads and they don't seat squarely. I believe someone linked bleeder valves that were oversize by ,001", .002" and/or .003"-.004" that fix the problem, without having to get a gorilla to tighen them for you.

 

I'd guesstimate that the problem occurs with just under 50% of the Baers reportedly being used by members of this forum.

 

If I mash on my brake pedal and hold it for about 20-30 seconds, I'll get a *slight* amount of brake fluid in my bleeder spout. Not enough to fill it and leak over the edge but enough that when I put a compressed air nozzle in and hit the air, it has fluid on the rag that I put over the bleeder to blow it out.

 

That is my final result, I didn't want to tighten it any more for fear of stripping out the aluminum threads in the caliper (and ruining a caliper, by my own fault).

 

You can search for the thread but I pretty much just gave you "the fix" (pucker yer butt and TIGHTEN THE SNOT OUT OF IT!). I tightened mine in 'stages'. Finger tight, then back off a TAD, snug, back of a TAD, tight, back of a TAD, TIGHT, back of a TAD, real tight, back off a TAD, REAL TIGHT, back off a TAD then a final REAL F*CK*NG TIGHT application.

 

 

YMMV,

Phill

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I had the same problem on my rear brakes and my mechanic put some teflon tape on the valves....problem solved.....

Hope this helps,

Alexandros

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Wow, this makes me wonder about the quality of the Baer brakes. I am due to buy a set of GT plus brakes for my build soon. I would gladly pay the same price for the Wilwood set instead. I can get the Wilwood set without the drilled rotors too.

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The baer brakes are a problem. I have had to replace 2 calipers (rear) and a wheel which had the finish removed due to brake fluid. The bigger problem is that if you plan to track your car these calipers are just not engineered to take the kind of heat generated on the track. If you have an option to use wilwood or anyone else's product, I would make the switch. I am currently looking into putting brembos on the 350 and putting the baers in a box on a shelf to go with the car should I ever sell. If you can't have a dependable braking system on the track you might as well stay in the paddock. Baer brakes do not yield confidence.

Edited by tony356

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Ouch, I am looking to upgrade my brakes next. Maybe I should look at Wilwood instead.

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For those looking for brake upgrades, AP Racing (a Brembo subsidiary) sells (through Stillen) a 6 Piston 14-1/4 inch front and 4 Piston 13 inch rear system. Both are available with slotted or cross drilled and slotted rotors. I have them on my car and love them, but they are pricey, especially the rears.

Edited by Shipwright

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I don't this the letters are being powder coated anymore either

 

 

 

6859588166_41778e1038_c.jpg

 

 

They are. Brake fluid is nasty stuff.

 

 

 

Just wanted to show everyone Clint's calipers all cleaned up. If anyone else's calipers were damaged from leaking hardware and needs them re-coated, let me know.

 

dsc08585w.jpg

 

Broke the calipers down,

dsc08587a.jpg

 

and acid washed them to finish what the brake fluid had started.

dsc08616cp.jpg

 

dsc08620i.jpg

 

Masked off and sandblasted

dsc08643b.jpg

 

Powder coated red and getting ready to fill the recessed letters w/ black powder.

dsc08653w.jpg

 

This picture shows the clear coat before it's been baked on.

dsc08687v.jpg

 

All done.

dsc7744w.jpg

 

dsc7785cx.jpg

 

Ordered new hardware from Baer and used a little teflon paste on the threads this time around.

Edited by blkGT500nCA

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Looks great Brian. :salute:

 

It definitely adds the possibility of changing the color of the calipers without having to buy new ones.

 

Dan

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Brian did an excellant job on my calipers and I would highly recommend him! His service is also second to none and he is a great guy to boot! Thx Brian!!!!

 

Clint

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Very nice refinishing, very clean work!!!

So what is the best fix to that problem...to avoid refinishing process...?

Teflon on the threaded part of the bleeders ( did not know it would stand pressure and nature of brake fluid)?

Oversized bleeders?

:sos:

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Has anybody addressed this problem with the Baer folks? I've worked out issues in the past and they've helped alot. Just wondering.

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Teflon on the threaded part of the bleeders ( did not know it would stand pressure and nature of brake fluid)?

 

Oversized bleeders?

 

 

 

Mine weren't leaking around the threads. Mine will leak from the bleeder hole. The threads are sloppy and that's what I believe the problem is from. The pintle won't seat right due to the bleeder not being square in the hole. I have mine TIGHT and don't get any fluid leaking under normal driving but I can make it leak by holding the brake pedal HARD to the floor over a short period of time. Normal driving doens't require the same pressure so they don't leak while driving....

 

In my case, teflon paste/tape wouldn't help.

 

I have heard that oversize bleeders are available and do work.

 

 

Phill

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Thank you Phill,

Will look for oversized bleeders!

 

 

If you can find the original thread on the leaking brakes, someone posted a pic and part # if I remember right.

 

Run a searh on my screen name and you might be able to find it. It's been awhile....maybe a year? Probably just under a year because that would be about when I put my Shelby/Baer's on my car (last winter, towards the end of winter storage).

 

 

Phill

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Hmmm, first i've heard of this. I'll have to look at mine when I get home.

 

5spd07gt, just wanted to ask which products did you use to lower your car .i used H&R sport lowering springs , the car dropped alot , but yours looks lowerer in the rear , looks great Edited by BLUE 2010 SHELBY GT 500

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They are. Brake fluid is nasty stuff.

 

 

 

Just wanted to show everyone Clint's calipers all cleaned up. If anyone else's calipers were damaged from leaking hardware and needs them re-coated, let me know.

 

dsc08585w.jpg

 

Broke the calipers down,

dsc08587a.jpg

 

and acid washed them to finish what the brake fluid had started.

dsc08616cp.jpg

 

dsc08620i.jpg

 

Masked off and sandblasted

dsc08643b.jpg

 

Powder coated red and getting ready to fill the recessed letters w/ black powder.

dsc08653w.jpg

 

This picture shows the clear coat before it's been baked on.

dsc08687v.jpg

 

All done.

dsc7744w.jpg

 

dsc7785cx.jpg

 

Ordered new hardware from Baer and used a little teflon paste on the threads this time around.

 

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For what Baer and Shelby charge for these brakes you would think they would fix this problem and warranty the existing units. I personally wouldn't put Baer brakes on my car if someone gave me them for free. They're fancy looking street brakes at best. Want good brakes, buy AP Racing or Wilwood, that's good brakes. Oh yeah, and they don't leak.

By the way Brian, if I ever need calipers painted I'm sending them to you. Absolutly beautiful work.

Edited by Nitro

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For what Baer and Shelby charge for these brakes you would think they would fix this problem and warranty the existing units. I personally wouldn't put Baer brakes on my car if someone gave me them for free. They're fancy looking street brakes at best. Want good brakes, buy AP Racing or Wilwood, that's good brakes. Oh yeah, and they don't leak.

By the way Brian, if I ever need calipers painted I'm sending them to you. Absolutly beautiful work.

 

Yes.

Looks like the Shelby 1000 has Wilwood brakes...

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For what Baer and Shelby charge for these brakes you would think they would fix this problem and warranty the existing units. I personally wouldn't put Baer brakes on my car if someone gave me them for free. They're fancy looking street brakes at best. Want good brakes, buy AP Racing or Wilwood, that's good brakes. Oh yeah, and they don't leak.

By the way Brian, if I ever need calipers painted I'm sending them to you. Absolutly beautiful work.

 

I have the Shelby/Baer brakes Fr. & Rr. and I can't agree more.

 

The primary reason I bought the Baers over the Wilwoods is price. I got both of mine for less than $4000. That and they do say Shelby on them, which Wilwood didn't offer at the time.

 

If I were a serious track racer, I'd throw my Baers out and replace them with Wilwoods.

 

 

Phill

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They are. Brake fluid is nasty stuff.

 

 

 

Just wanted to show everyone Clint's calipers all cleaned up. If anyone else's calipers were damaged from leaking hardware and needs them re-coated, let me know.

 

dsc08585w.jpg

 

Broke the calipers down,

dsc08587a.jpg

 

and acid washed them to finish what the brake fluid had started.

dsc08616cp.jpg

 

dsc08620i.jpg

 

Masked off and sandblasted

dsc08643b.jpg

 

Powder coated red and getting ready to fill the recessed letters w/ black powder.

dsc08653w.jpg

 

This picture shows the clear coat before it's been baked on.

dsc08687v.jpg

 

All done.

dsc7744w.jpg

 

dsc7785cx.jpg

 

Ordered new hardware from Baer and used a little teflon paste on the threads this time around.

 

 

^^^^Are you still doing restoration's/rebuild's on these Baer Extremes? I tried to send you a PM, but it said your box was not accepting PM's.

 

 

 

Robert

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