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Any good install threads for American racing headers w/o cats 1 7/8 on a 2008 GT500? Pics would be great! Lesson learned and "watch out for..." is also welcome.

 

Thanks

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to add on to SLAMiAM's post has anyone installed the 2" ARH headers and can you remove the transmission to access the clutch with ANY of there headers?

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I did a couple of 1 7/8" ARH installs. First one was on a friends car. During the install the stock motor mounts were swapped out for some billet lowering mounts to fit the KB blower. This made access to a few bolt/studs a bit easier. The k-member was also carefully lowered a tad. You may want to make some marks before doing this, so when you tighten it back up, you will lessen the need for a wheel alignment. Not 100% sure, but I think we also loosened or removed the trans crossmember. Because of the lowering mounts, a couple of primaries had to be dimpled on the driver's side to clear the steering shaft. I also think we removed the starter, but again, not 100% sure.

 

Other tips:

You should remove the battery and tray for access to the EGR valve connection on the passenger side.

You will be reusing the factory gaskets.

Don't get hung up on trying to use all the ARH supplied header bolts. You'll need to reuse some of the factory studs/nuts in some areas.

Be careful/patient not to cross thread or strip the holes in the aluminum head.

Don't drink, take your time, and be prepared for a little cursing. I did my car by myself, and I think I invented a few curse words. LOL!

 

On my car, I swapped out the K-member for an engine lowering tubular unit which made things alot easier. Since I knew I would need an alignment, I pushed the k-member to the passenger side for a little extra clearance with the steering shaft. I only had to dimple the #3 primary tube.

 

arhdimple.jpg

 

I had my car up on a lift at my tuner's shop, and he said he thought the trans could come out without touching the headers. IMO, I think one side may have to be loosened up just a little.

 

Good Luck!

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I did a couple of 1 7/8" ARH installs. First one was on a friends car. During the install the stock motor mounts were swapped out for some billet lowering mounts to fit the KB blower. This made access to a few bolt/studs a bit easier. The k-member was also carefully lowered a tad. You may want to make some marks before doing this, so when you tighten it back up, you will lessen the need for a wheel alignment. Not 100% sure, but I think we also loosened or removed the trans crossmember. Because of the lowering mounts, a couple of primaries had to be dimpled on the driver's side to clear the steering shaft. I also think we removed the starter, but again, not 100% sure.

 

Other tips:

You should remove the battery and tray for access to the EGR valve connection on the passenger side.

You will be reusing the factory gaskets.

Don't get hung up on trying to use all the ARH supplied header bolts. You'll need to reuse some of the factory studs/nuts in some areas.

Be careful/patient not to cross thread or strip the holes in the aluminum head.

Don't drink, take your time, and be prepared for a little cursing. I did my car by myself, and I think I invented a few curse words. LOL!

 

On my car, I swapped out the K-member for an engine lowering tubular unit which made things alot easier. Since I knew I would need an alignment, I pushed the k-member to the passenger side for a little extra clearance with the steering shaft. I only had to dimple the #3 primary tube.

 

arhdimple.jpg

 

I had my car up on a lift at my tuner's shop, and he said he thought the trans could come out without touching the headers. IMO, I think one side may have to be loosened up just a little.

 

Good Luck!

 

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I did a couple of 1 7/8" ARH installs. First one was on a friends car. During the install the stock motor mounts were swapped out for some billet lowering mounts to fit the KB blower. This made access to a few bolt/studs a bit easier. The k-member was also carefully lowered a tad. You may want to make some marks before doing this, so when you tighten it back up, you will lessen the need for a wheel alignment. Not 100% sure, but I think we also loosened or removed the trans crossmember. Because of the lowering mounts, a couple of primaries had to be dimpled on the driver's side to clear the steering shaft. I also think we removed the starter, but again, not 100% sure.

 

Other tips:

You should remove the battery and tray for access to the EGR valve connection on the passenger side.

You will be reusing the factory gaskets.

Don't get hung up on trying to use all the ARH supplied header bolts. You'll need to reuse some of the factory studs/nuts in some areas.

Be careful/patient not to cross thread or strip the holes in the aluminum head.

Don't drink, take your time, and be prepared for a little cursing. I did my car by myself, and I think I invented a few curse words. LOL!

 

On my car, I swapped out the K-member for an engine lowering tubular unit which made things alot easier. Since I knew I would need an alignment, I pushed the k-member to the passenger side for a little extra clearance with the steering shaft. I only had to dimple the #3 primary tube.

 

arhdimple.jpg

 

I had my car up on a lift at my tuner's shop, and he said he thought the trans could come out without touching the headers. IMO, I think one side may have to be loosened up just a little.

 

Good Luck!

 

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