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brandyspaw

Supercharger Recommendations

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I've been researching superchargers for the SGT and have narrowed down my choices to three companies.

My short list consists of the Whipple that Ford Racing offers, the Kenne Bell 2.6L or the Edelbrock E-force.

 

What superchargers did you choose and why? Also, when you installed your supercharger install did you upgrade your

clutch right away and also go with a one-piece driveshaft immediately? Thanks in advance for any feedback.

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Whipple, yes upgraded clutch and drive shaft.. cause it looked the best, sounded the best and not sure what else was going through my mind ?!?

 

you putting this on the stock block if so stay under 500 RWHP

 

You are going to need new tires soon and a good lawyer

 

Enjoy

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I did the SC package through TASCA, and I would do it again, because I wanted a REAL Shelby GT/SC. Original clutch and drive shaft. I do not drag race. If not for the pedigree issue I would do the E-Force package. You don't need 500 RWHP unless you drag. It's a KICK though! Since it is a Shelby, not a standard GT, you ought to do the Whipple via a Shelby mod shop. The additional cost will be more than compensated for in knowing it was done right and in hard dollars when you sell it.

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I did the SC package through TASCA, and I would do it again, because I wanted a REAL Shelby GT/SC. Original clutch and drive shaft. I do not drag race. If not for the pedigree issue I would do the E-Force package. You don't need 500 RWHP unless you drag. It's a KICK though! Since it is a Shelby, not a standard GT, you ought to do the Whipple via a Shelby mod shop. The additional cost will be more than compensated for in knowing it was done right and in hard dollars when you sell it.

 

 

Same here except I did the Aluminum Drive-shaft, stock clutch still going strong, but like Rev I do not race.

 

Love it!!!!!!!

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If you have the cash, take it to SAI or other Shelby mod shop, if not, DIY.

 

I did the Edelbrock E-Force and don't regret it one bit! Did the work myself and I'm very pleased with the results - 466 hp and 428 tq at the rear wheels on 5 psi!

 

If you're planning on keeping your car till you die and pass it on to a family member, it may be worth the extra dough for the true GT/SC package, but my bet is that I'll be dead and long gone before this car get's to be a real collectible like the 60's models! Drive it, and let the others that follow rant and curse you for enjoying your car!

 

Sam

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I went with the Whipple, but all three of your choices are good. I liked the up graded fuel system that they offered since I had planed to go with an all out built combo. I did up grade my clutch at the same time. I had already installed a one piece drive shaft.

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I had the Whipple installed during the GT/SC conversion by Shelby in Las Vegas. My clutch is now a twin disc Ram clutch and is outstanding. Before the Ram, SAI installed a stage 3 Spec, single disc clutch. flywheel etc., which was junk. Removed after around 1,000 miles.

 

I recently purchased a 2007 GT/CS convertible, automatic, and if I supercharged it, I would strongly look at doing the Edelbrock E-Force not just for for economic reasons, but from my research, it appears to be a very well built unit.

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What is a safe psi to be used with the Whipple and what kind of HP and TQ?

Kenne Bell HP and TQ?

Edelbrock HP and TQ?

Edited by Larry T

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Thanks for all the feedback so far. Right now kind of I'm leaning toward the Edelbrock.

 

Whatever one I choose I think I'll install the supercharger myself as I don't feel its worth the extra expense to go the Shelby GT/SC option. I just don't think the resale values of these cars is all that great and don't think the Shelby SC upgrade is worth it for me at $10K plus. It would just be that much more money that I'd loose when I sell the car since I can't keep my SGT very long. (Part of the problem with being retired on a fixed income is that I can only afford one non-daily driver fun car at a time. So many cars---so little time.)

 

In fact, if I go the supercharger route I'm planning on pulling it off when I sell the SGT as I likely could recoup at least half the price of the supercharger kit back. Moreover, my observation is that these cars appear to sell better at a cheaper price when left stock as long as they are fairly low (less than 30K) miles. (So I'm planning on selling my SGT before it hits the 30K mileage mark.) By doing my own work and selling off the SC kit separately when I sell the car I can have my jollies before I move onto some other kind of fun car.

At least thats the plan.

Edited by brandyspaw

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The conventional wisdom on the 4.6L 3V engine is that it can handle about 625HP (crank), or about 550 at the wheels, which is what the original Shelby GT/SC literature said it was. I think that is what FRPP lists for the Whipple too. We do know that is not gospel as JeffJ blew his up with that or less since his is a Paxton without the same kind of boost you get from the twin screw top units.

 

I think mine was set to about 6lb boost. It was plenty :)

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Brandyspaw,

 

I did the whipple supercahrger and had it installed locally at a speed shop. I am located in St. Louis, Mo. and I purchased the SC at Tousley Ford in MN. I was reffered to them by someone on this forum board, Jason I believe. Ask for Steve in parts at Tousley Ford if you decide to go this route because he gives incredible deals for people on the forum for the whippe kits. Their customer service was great! I am so glad I went this route this car is so much fun with this much HP. I did everything like they would have installed the SC package in Las Vegas. I would have had it done there if i had the $'s.

 

TNTChris

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I failed to mention that with my Edelbrock E-Force install, I also put in a GT500 dual-fuel pump set up just to make sure fuel delivery stayed consistent. Also, immediately following the supercharger install, my stock clutch began failing so I replaced it with a McLeod RST dual disk.

 

There are incidental items that go along with a supercharger install - the fuel pump for instance, but beyond that, don't forget to install an oil "catch can" between the PCV an intake as there is a marked increase in crankcase ventilation! Consider extra instrumentation as well to monitor oil, fuel, and boost pressures. (I included the Shelby center gauge pod in my install.) With the E-Force, you will need to replace the stock strut brace with one from a Bullitt/V6 Mustang as the stock FRPP will not clear the supercharger.

 

There's always stuff you don't think of when doing this sort of mod!

 

Sam

Edited by 2007_Shelby_GT

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I had SAI do the Whipple 550 install in Vegas. I had already installed 1-piece Coast DS.

I love the Whipple because the tune is perfect, right out of the box. 3 years later still strong. My clutch is still stock and it is (pretty much) toast. :) I drive mine "spiritedly", to say the least. Noticable loss of WHP in 3rd and 4th.

Numbers posted below on 10lbs/boost.

Forged internals/FR Aluminator is in the works.

 

Any forced induction unit you install will make you smile. Guaranteed! Nasty-fast

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I had SAI do the Whipple 550 install in Vegas. I had already installed 1-piece Coast DS.

I love the Whipple because the tune is perfect, right out of the box. 3 years later still strong. My clutch is still stock and it is (pretty much) toast. :) I drive mine "spiritedly", to say the least. Noticable loss of WHP in 3rd and 4th.

Numbers posted below on 10lbs/boost.

Forged internals/FR Aluminator is in the works.

 

Any forced induction unit you install will make you smile. Guaranteed! Nasty-fast

 

 

I am curious what you feel is causing the loss in 3rd and 4th??? Why wouldn't it be lost across the board? Could it be you are just used to the power? Just curious, I did not realize over time that power was lost, I have seen some cars after break-in actually gain power.

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I failed to mention that with my Edelbrock E-Force install, I also put in a GT500 dual-fuel pump set up just to make sure fuel delivery stayed consistent. Also, immediately following the supercharger install, my stock clutch began failing so I replaced it with a McLeod RST dual disk.

 

There are incidental items that go along with a supercharger install - the fuel pump for instance, but beyond that, don't forget to install an oil "catch can" between the PCV an intake as there is a marked increase in crankcase ventilation! Consider extra instrumentation as well to monitor oil, fuel, and boost pressures. (I included the Shelby center gauge pod in my install.) With the E-Force, you will need to replace the stock strut brace with one from a Bullitt/V6 Mustang as the stock FRPP will not clear the supercharger.

 

There's always stuff you don't think of when doing this sort of mod!

 

Sam

 

 

Thanks Sam, those are some things I never thought of since I had the mentality of installing a "kit" but don't think of those extras. All told

between the driveline, clutch, fuel pump, catch can, gauges, bigger tires/wheels, etc it really starts to add to the price of the supercharger. I might need to rethink doing this whole supercharger experience with my limited future plan for this car.

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I started by just adding the Paxton SL1200 kit. 444 RWHP and I've not had to upgrade the clutch, drive shaft etc. Kit came with the Kenne Bell boost-a-pump. I haven't added guages yet, can't make up my mind on them. I don't drag race but I do road race. Paxton is perfect for that because the engine stays in the higher RPM range where the Paxton makes great power. Start with a basic supercharger then add goodies as funds come along. You don't have to get the whole enchilada at first. I did buy an oil catch can soon after I installed the supercharger.

 

Thanks Sam, those are some things I never thought of since I had the mentality of installing a "kit" but don't think of those extras. All told

between the driveline, clutch, fuel pump, catch can, gauges, bigger tires/wheels, etc it really starts to add to the price of the supercharger. I might need to rethink doing this whole supercharger experience with my limited future plan for this car.

 

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I am curious what you feel is causing the loss in 3rd and 4th??? Why wouldn't it be lost across the board? Could it be you are just used to the power? Just curious, I did not realize over time that power was lost, I have seen some cars after break-in actually gain power.

 

 

I think he's saying the clutch is slipping causing the power loss at the wheels.

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Thanks Sam, those are some things I never thought of since I had the mentality of installing a "kit" but don't think of those extras. All told

between the driveline, clutch, fuel pump, catch can, gauges, bigger tires/wheels, etc it really starts to add to the price of the supercharger. I might need to rethink doing this whole supercharger experience with my limited future plan for this car.

 

 

Clutch is really the only thing you may not have a choice on there, the rest is optional. I have about 17k miles on the stock clutch with 519 at the wheels... they do last a while sometimes....

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Clutch is really the only thing you may not have a choice on there, the rest is optional. I have about 17k miles on the stock clutch with 519 at the wheels... they do last a while sometimes....

 

 

You are correct - some people have really good luck with the clutch, I think a lot depends on the mileage of your SGT when you do the install and, of course, your driving habits! I had around 30k on the car when I installed the S/C - the clutch began slipping about a month or so later in 4th and 5th gear when I would accelerate to pass slower vehicles. It was still functional, but rather than wait for a failure, (and concerned about drive train power loss), I went ahead and replaced it.

 

The McLeod RST dual-disk has been a good clutch, it's action is as light or lighter than stock. Only one noticeable exception - there has been reports of the clutch "dragging" (not fully releasing), and the same has occurred with mine (minimally) since day one. It hasn't been a problem, but I'm certain the life of the clutch will be shortened. If you do replace the clutch, make sure to replace the stock clutch line with a stainless steel version AND replace the slave cylinder at the same time!!

 

As with most things, replace the critical bits before they break or at the slightest hint of failure!

 

Sam

Edited by 2007_Shelby_GT

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I am curious what you feel is causing the loss in 3rd and 4th??? Why wouldn't it be lost across the board? Could it be you are just used to the power? Just curious, I did not realize over time that power was lost, I have seen some cars after break-in actually gain power.

 

Loss of power from the clutch not holding when in the power band for extended time. In 1st and 2nd gear, even hard, the time it takes to run out of RPm is too short to really notice. (Maybe a little late in 2nd) Once into 3rd, and especially 4th, it takes long enough at the "full 500rwtq" to hit the limiter that I can SOTP feel a loss of WHP.

My car had about 7500 miles when I got the SC, now it has 18,000+. I started feeling the slippage around a couple/three thousand SC miles... Like I said before, Idrive her pretty hard. I virtually always hit triple digits on every ride, unless its around town etc. I never speed in town and only when it is safe. These things are so fast, a freeway onramp is easily 100-120mph, if you want!

When I do the internals, I'll install the clutch. :)

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Hi Guys, i have a 2008 Shelby GT [#344] here in the UK. I took it to Roush UK and had them fit their M90 Supercharger conversion. The whole conversion was very comprehensive and looks OE, but i included an uprated belt tensioner, because of recommendations from other forum users, thank you for that. With the original cold air kit in place, the power is rated at 450hp and 400lbs ft. This version has given me perfect hot or cold driveability/starting/usage and hopefully does not put excessive strain on the motor. Performance is outstanding, especially above 3250rpm, bearing in mind we are very heavily policed here in the UK for speeding.........if you are caught at any speed over 100, it bye-bye license.

Clutch is Factory stock unit, which seems okay at present, but i am careful not to overload it with heavy starts.

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I have the Whipple 550 set up with the stock clutch and drive shaft. The previous owner had it tune to 91 octane and left it at a tame 440 HP to the wheels, which has proven more than enough seeing you really have to feather it in order to keep those wheels grounded to the ground. That being said I am going to have it retuned to 93 octane and the upgraded pulley soon, but that really is about all you need to piss-off most any other car on the street, so.....

 

Enjoy the car!

 

PS, I have had the car for about 10 months and drive it several days out of every week. I also did not buy it to drive in the right hand lane, so it does get use and I have had not 1 issue, so I would lean towards the whipple..

Edited by peter301

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Lots of good replies here, but I don't see anyone asking what you want to do with the car. If you want to spin wheels on the street or drag race then I would say roots/twin screw blowers are the way to go. For the track, a centri blower is the way to go imo.

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I had TASCA Mod Shop do my GT/SC kit install this past summer, they had the car three days. It included Polished 475HP Whipple Kit (Automatic Transmission), Gauge Pod, Rotors, Pads, SS Brake Lines, and GT/SC Side Stripes. I also had them put in a Shelby one piece driveshaft, it was between that and cooling system upgrade. Dennis at TASCA talked to me about what I was going to do with the car, and suggested I go with the driveshaft. Unbelievable the response out of this car when you get into it now, I thought it ran good before. I planned on keeping it all along, so the investment in my 07 Shelby GT didn't really bother me, if I was going to get rid of it, I would have felt different. Regardless I hated to see the snow last week now it will be parked till May. If you do it, enjoy it, drive it, if you want to look at something buy a TV. This car is definitely a fun driver now, and was before the mod. Good luck which ever way you decide.

Edited by mbcortese

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