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that__seth__guy

1968 Shelby T/A Coupe REPLICA Build

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Hey all. I have taken on a 1968 Mustang and I am attempting to replicate (performance wise and visually) the Shelby TA Coupe (notchback racer). Here are some pics, any and all suggestions are welcomed. Any negative stuff, well, save that for the Chevrolet guys.

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Side view, the primer spots are covering bare metal. All bondo here is being removed, the metal being properly fixed.

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Decided to go with some 2008 Mustang GT wheels. Partially because they are relatively inexpensive, and the width on these was what I was looking for.

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Baer cross drilled and slotted rotors.

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TMI Mustang's molded headliner to gain some headroom and retro-sound speakers hidden behind the back bench. I am sewing the seats myself soon because I have access to proper machinery to do so at this automotive restoration school.

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Went with some nice Shelby American Inc. door sill/scuff plates (looked better than my original ones)

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In the rear, I dropped the car 2 inches. You can see the bondo on the fenders. That will be removed and the 1/4's will be replaced.

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Had a crappy Grant steering wheel in it, so I upgraded that to a wooden wheel (I like that woodgrain look) as well as a TMI center console, Retrosound radio, and a tachometer located in the OEM clock location.

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Front end after completing the 1in. drop post-Shelby drop. YES I did do the Shelby drop PROPERLY. Side indicators will be removed in the distant future, I like the clean look of the 67's.

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I ended up "Frenching" the taillights. Soon I will add the Shelby ducktail trunk lid with the ducktail corner caps. Tail lights will be upgraded to sequential LED's

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Every bit of ignition in this vehicle is MSD. Went with a champion 4 core aluminum rad with trans cooler. I am installing dual electric fans over christmas and doing away with the OEM fan. The engine is a 1971 Ford 302 out of a Torino (thanks previous owner) with 9.0:1 compression. This Christmas I am adding ceramic coated long tubes and maybe an Edelbrock 360hp kit from CJ Pony parts, but I am not totally sure yet. And yes, I am re-wiring the engine bay this winter as well.

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The previous owner still had the stock I6 springs/shocks in the Mustang... so I upgraded to 1969 BOSS302 coils and Scot Drake shocks.

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those are SOME photos. Ill take some new ones around Christmas as I am in college up in Kansas and haven't brought up the 'stang yet. And yes, after its up here, the rear 1/4's are getting replaced, you can noticed the bondo job courtesy of the previous owner.

Edited by that__seth__guy

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1968 Shelby Group II Mustang (replica), Wimbledon White, 1971 302, 351W heads, Holley 650CFM double pumper, Edelbrock Performer RPM Intake Manifold, Champion 4-core rad, Scott-Drake shocks, 1969 BOSS302 front springs, Shelby dropped upper arms, Doug's ceramic coated long tube headers, 2008 mustang GT "bullitt" wheels, Michelin pilot sport pro rubber, Borgeson power steering, Baer cross-drilled/slotted power disk brakes, retro sound radio, Shelby woodgrain steering wheel (had to), Shelby kick plates... more to come! (from my sig)

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You need to get rid of the stamped steel shock tower braces and get the one-piece part - it's much stronger. Also, I don't think the coupe race cars had a ducktail spoiler. Are you going with Minilite wheels?

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I guess you could say im not doing a 100% replica, im shooting more for the http://www.shelbytransam.com/walt/ShelbyTA/index.htm look. Im trying to replicate the engine as much as I can, as well as the performance aspects of the car. Ive got a long, long way to go. I wanted to do something other than the common GT350-GT300 (whatever that is, Ive seen a few) or the GT500. If I had a vinyl top, id go green and find the right engine to replicate an EXP500 haha.

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You need to get rid of the stamped steel shock tower braces and get the one-piece part - it's much stronger. Also, I don't think the coupe race cars had a ducktail spoiler. Are you going with Minilite wheels?

I am going to get the one piece- I like that look much better as well. Nah, the coupe cars didn't but I LOVE the ducktail. I may leave it off tho. As for the minilite wheels- im considering them, my only issue may be the back spacing and my disk brake calipers.

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You need to get rid of the stamped steel shock tower braces and get the one-piece part - it's much stronger. Also, I don't think the coupe race cars had a ducktail spoiler. Are you going with Minilite wheels?

I like what you did with your tribute--- maybe I will re-label this build as a tribute car.

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I like what you did with your tribute--- maybe I will re-label this build as a tribute car.

 

Thanks. I'm not done, either. I'm currently saving money for a 427 stroker/dual-quad swap - I have 1% of the estimated funds. :)

Edited by jsimmons

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You have a fun project going. However, it would be more accurate to be a Trans-Am Mustang tribute, not a Shelby Trans Am based on your preferred mods.

 

Check out:

 

http://www.shelbytransam.com/index68.htm

 

If you haven't check out some real ones yet, try get to one of the regional Vintage race Car Series or Shelby American Auto Club events.

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You have a fun project going. However, it would be more accurate to be a Trans-Am Mustang tribute, not a Shelby Trans Am based on your preferred mods.

 

Check out:

 

http://www.shelbytransam.com/index68.htm

 

If you haven't check out some real ones yet, try get to one of the regional Vintage race Car Series or Shelby American Auto Club events.

thanks for the info! do you know of any events in the Plains?

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There usually are a bunch of T/A racers at Mid-America Ford and Shelby Meet in Tulsa each June. Check the article in the recently released Shelby magazine.

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Did some math.... total project cost (when finished) ~$20k... Thinking about just getting the drive shaft done and brakes installed then selling as-is for like $15k. Done wasting money on a (virtually) worthless coupe and trying again someday on a fastback.

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Did some math.... total project cost (when finished) ~$20k... Thinking about just getting the drive shaft done and brakes installed then selling as-is for like $15k. Done wasting money on a (virtually) worthless coupe and trying again someday on a fastback.

It's very true that coupes get no respect, no matter what it seems. I still see many K code coupes languishing on eBay and other places, nobody wants to pay big bucks for them. I owned a white '68 1/2 GT coupe, a special one, a 428 CJ with a "V" code rear end (3.91:1). Only maybe 20 of those made according to Marti. I bought it cheap, nobody wanted it. I fixed it up to original all around, then sold it for a small profit, but still very low price compared to the fastback '68 1/2 CJs. Sometimes I wish I had kept it, but at car shows nobody hardly ever came to look at it, you had to look into the engine bay to be impressed, otherwise it was just a coupe.

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