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Shelby Fays2 Watts Link - In Blue Please!

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Blue would have been neat to match the SPP Transmission Cooler Scoop, but I'm totally fine with red. It is so very far up underneath the car that you have to go searching for it go see it....no joke. It might be the shorter convertible unit is not going to show as much as the taller coupe unit.

 

Remember, Jer posted in one thread that the coupe units have 7 settings and the convertible units only have 3 settings.

 

Andy

 

Andy, we now carry ONLY the shallower 3-setting model for coupes AND convertibles. There were issues with swaybar clearances, we tested it on my car and found that the big frame could have contact on full suspension release (specifically, the "drop" on Spring Mountain Motorsports Ranch's track), so the shallower Watts frame is way more compatible, fits everything.

 

 

 

Jer

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what wrenches and sockets do we need for installation ?

 

Thanks

Andrew

 

Nothing fancy, but the connectors do use a larger socket… I forget, I'll go check now. It's also handy to have a big pair of Vise-Grips should the car frame need to be "coaxed" to line up with the Watts frame mounting holes, due to different cars' varying tolerances.

 

 

 

Jer

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Bravo Jer for bringing the goods....once again!

:rockon::rockon::rockon: :rockon: :rockon:

You're definitely amazing!

 

Andy

 

Nah, I just have a good team. My motto is "Hire talent, then get out of their way".

 

 

Jer

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Andy, we now carry ONLY the shallower 3-setting model for coupes AND convertibles. There were issues with swaybar clearances, we tested it on my car and found that the big frame could have contact on full suspension release (specifically, the "drop" on Spring Mountain Motorsports Ranch's track), so the shallower Watts frame is way more compatible, fits everything.

 

 

 

Jer

 

Well, based on that statement...color really doesn't matter since the only one who will know what color you have under there is your installer!! LOL!

 

Actually, I'm telling you folks...90% of the Watt Link is hidden by the spare tire cut-out built into the trunk....among other things, so it really doesn't show underneath the car at all unless it is on a lift. It even sits higher up in the suspension system than the rear stabilizer/anti-roll bar does. I just went back out to the garage to double check if my memory was correct on it. You may see 2 inches here, 1 inch there sort of thing, but that is it.

 

Now as far as showing performance...it will show off its stuff in that category when you get it on some curves! The only thing someone will be able to see is tail lights disappearing in the distance....no sign of a Watts Link...not even a glimpse!!

 

Andy.

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Well, based on that statement...color really doesn't matter since the only one who will know what color you have under there is your installer!! LOL!

 

Actually, I'm telling you folks...90% of the Watt Link is hidden by the spare tire cut-out built into the trunk....among other things, so it really doesn't show underneath the car at all unless it is on a lift. It even sits higher up in the suspension system than the rear stabilizer/anti-roll bar does. I just went back out to the garage to double check if my memory was correct on it. You may see 2 inches here, 1 inch there sort of thing, but that is it.

 

Now as far as showing performance...it will show off its stuff in that category when you get it on some curves! The only thing someone will be able to see is tail lights disappearing in the distance....no sign of a Watts Link...not even a glimpse!!

 

Andy.

 

I've said this many times, but it bears repeating: This is not just for the track, it's an ESSENTIAL geometry correction that centers the rear axle, eliminates "rear steering", and really enhances the overall "feel" of the car. I felt it the moment I backed out of my driveway after installing it. A truly great mod worth every penny.

 

 

Jer

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Wow, thanks Jer! I thought that when the finances didn't align when the blue version was running out I wasn't going to be able to get one. Hopefully I'll be able to get one on the car before the Spring!

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I've said this many times, but it bears repeating: This is not just for the track, it's an ESSENTIAL geometry correction that centers the rear axle, eliminates "rear steering", and really enhances the overall "feel" of the car. I felt it the moment I backed out of my driveway after installing it. A truly great mod worth every penny.

 

 

Jer

Agreed!

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Jer, you are da' man! Great job!

 

Order placed for a BLUE one!

 

By the way, besides the vice-grips, can you offer us up some other tips/hints/pics of the install? I'll be doing this at home, unless I can find a drive-on lift to use! (I assume the suspension has to remain loaded for install?)

 

Sam

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Jer, you are da' man! Great job!

 

Order placed for a BLUE one!

 

By the way, besides the vice-grips, can you offer us up some other tips/hints/pics of the install? I'll be doing this at home, unless I can find a drive-on lift to use! (I assume the suspension has to remain loaded for install?)

 

Sam

 

Sam,

 

Vic and I did it in his garage. Minor tools and duct tape... :hysterical: (just kidding about duct tape). about 1.5 hrs or so.

 

Yes suspension stays loaded. AND SO WAS VIC.... :doh:

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Jer, you are da' man! Great job!

 

Order placed for a BLUE one!

 

By the way, besides the vice-grips, can you offer us up some other tips/hints/pics of the install? I'll be doing this at home, unless I can find a drive-on lift to use! (I assume the suspension has to remain loaded for install?)

 

Sam

 

A customer installing one this weekend has taken me up on my challenge to do a good old-fashioned "Install Thread" here on TS, with pix, instructions, and including the tips I gave him today. Watch for it!

 

We need to bring that back to our culture here, I always learned so much from them.

 

 

Jer

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Can I fit a Torque Arm with the Fays Watts link? I know that Griggs makes a Watts Link of their own to go with their TA, but I really want to have the Shelby badging. I've gotten mixed reviews as whether or not the TA is needed for our cars, but if I'm gonna be putting a new Watts Link I might as well put in the TA at the same time.

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Can I fit a Torque Arm with the Fays Watts link? I know that Griggs makes a Watts Link of their own to go with their TA, but I really want to have the Shelby badging. I've gotten mixed reviews as whether or not the TA is needed for our cars, but if I'm gonna be putting a new Watts Link I might as well put in the TA at the same time.

Yes you can put on a Torque Arm with the SPP/Fays2 watts linkage. Yes a torque arm helps with the forward bite. Griggs makes one that will work with the SPP watts - I know because I have it on my 2007 GT500. It's the one for use with a stock differential cover.

Edited by Albino500

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I've said this many times, but it bears repeating: This is not just for the track, it's an ESSENTIAL geometry correction that centers the rear axle, eliminates "rear steering", and really enhances the overall "feel" of the car. I felt it the moment I backed out of my driveway after installing it. A truly great mod worth every penny.

 

 

Jer

 

I heard they also help with clearance when using wide rear tires vs. a panhard bar which might still rub in some cases? Such as coming into driveways and what not.

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I heard they also help with clearance when using wide rear tires vs. a panhard bar which might still rub in some cases? Such as coming into driveways and what not.

 

They center the axle, so, yes, they help with that. Especially on lowered cars.

 

 

Jer

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Jer, any installation issues for a KR? I know the diff cover is different. I definitely want to do this down the road.

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Jer, any installation issues for a KR? I know the diff cover is different. I definitely want to do this down the road.

I put one on Cali_KR's KR - NO issues - he posted comments in the KR section about it .

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Jer, any installation issues for a KR? I know the diff cover is different. I definitely want to do this down the road.

 

Nope. The KR cover is the one I actually recommend for Watts installs. Did it on my car.

 

 

Jer

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A customer installing one this weekend has taken me up on my challenge to do a good old-fashioned "Install Thread" here on TS, with pix, instructions, and including the tips I gave him today. Watch for it!

 

We need to bring that back to our culture here, I always learned so much from them.

 

 

Jer

I'll be watching for your "Install Thread." Maybe then I'll get around to installing mine!

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Once I see it and feel comfortable, time to jump in. Any ETA on the install video?

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Once I see it and feel comfortable, time to jump in. Any ETA on the install video?

 

It won't be a video, but a set of instructions and pictures from a fellow member here on TS.

We just did some fact-checking with Jim Fay this week, and the install is still underway.

 

It is not difficult, just takes an eye for details.

 

 

Jer

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Great, look forward to reading the install. I definitely want to get this mod done.

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I put one on Cali_KR's KR - NO issues - he posted comments in the KR section about it .

 

 

Great, look forward to reading the install. I definitely want to get this mod done.

 

Once you put the car thru its paces, you really notice the benefit, it feels so much tighter where the rear isn't jumping and shuddering all over the place.

 

I give this mod, :thumbsup:

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With all the snow we have received lately, I spent some time underneath the car in the garage. Very tight quarters! Other than my "rusty butt" rear axle and drive shaft, the bolts/ nuts look good. I actually loosed a few nuts on the rear suspension to test the tightness. No problem breaking them loose. My car has a ton of paint dobbs to line everything back up.

 

Questions? I know the watts install is done with the suspension loaded. Is it better to perform with the rear on jack stands or perhaps drive on ramps? I also have access to a local speed shops 4 wheel lift. I think it rises 2-3'.

 

Steel or billet? Other than weight, any difference in overall performance? I hear the blue one adds 10 HP!

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With all the snow we have received lately, I spent some time underneath the car in the garage. Very tight quarters! Other than my "rusty butt" rear axle and drive shaft, the bolts/ nuts look good. I actually loosed a few nuts on the rear suspension to test the tightness. No problem breaking them loose. My car has a ton of paint dobbs to line everything back up.

 

Questions? I know the watts install is done with the suspension loaded. Is it better to perform with the rear on jack stands or perhaps drive on ramps? I also have access to a local speed shops 4 wheel lift. I think it rises 2-3'.

 

Steel or billet? Other than weight, any difference in overall performance? I hear the blue one adds 10 HP!

 

Drive on ramps.

 

Steel or billet? Well, the billet is 2 pounds lighter and looks killer if anyone can see under your car!

 

 

Jer

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Drive on ramps.

 

Steel or billet? Well, the billet is 2 pounds lighter and looks killer if anyone can see under your car!

 

 

Jer

The billet does look great. Did mine on drive on ramps and it sure made it nice to have the room.

image.jpg

image.jpg

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Have to ask why zip ties are being used for the e-brake cable. Can't they just run through the LCA like factory? The billet does look nice.

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Billet looks great, especially with the painted axle. I like your rear diff cover as well.

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So I am about ready to pull the trigger on the Watts link but I cant find the GT500KR differential cover in the the Shelby Store, anyone have a link ?

 

Thanks

Andrew

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