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2007 Gt500 Upgrade To 2013 Power - Easiest Route?

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Just as the question says really: to get a 2007 GT500 up to the same power output as a 2013 stocker what would be a sensible way to go about it? I know it can be exceeded but I'm just interested in equalling it for the sake of it.

 

At present I have a 2007 with a recently added Stage 2 kit from Brenspeed. I haven't dyno'd it yet but it should be going on a hub dyno soon.

 

I will say this: believe it or not it seems to keep up with a friend's 2008 Z06 which I am quite pleased about. TBH it feels a hell of a lot more responsive and quicker than stock as it is.

 

Anyway: can it be done reliably with the stock blower? I am planning an intercooler upgrade though I guess that doesn't add power in itself.

 

I don't really want to dig into the engine, i.e. change cams or anything like that. Headers also look like a proper pain to install to me. I am pretty competent mechanically but this is an expensive engine and a pretty pristine low mileage car(at present though the miles are going on ...)and I don't want to ruin it by messing up.

 

I was really wondering if anything could reliably add power to what I have? Throttle body for example?

 

I may not do this for a while but it would be good to have a plan.

 

Thanks, Malc

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An FRPP or VMP TVS blower and throttle body will easily put you past the 2013 numbers.

 

I am only running an FRPP TVS with a 72mm TB, 2.5" upper, 90mm idler, an FRPP 113mm CAI and a VMP tune.

The only other changes are 1 step colder in plugs, gapped them to .032", and running an HD green blower belt.

With a full stock exhaust system, the car dynoned (Powerdyne Mustang Dyno) 624 rwhp and 645 lbft torque.

 

If you went to something like the VMP TVS and a 67mm TB, with a 2.5 or 2.4" upper you would easily be beyond my numbers.

Those parts are very easy to install too, I consider them to be bolt-ons in terms of ease of install.

The car has the same driveability as stock too, but really wakes up when you put your foot into it.

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Holy crap, cheers for that. I just looked on Brenspeed's site and they do a TVS 2.3 kit and do state that if you already have some of the parts in the kit the price is reduced.

 

I already have a 123mm intake, an SCT tuner (so would just need a new tune for it), the 90mm idler and also TR6 plus that I gapped at .032" (I remember comparing that to the massive gap on the stock plugs).

 

If I am not mistaken (I could be) the 2013 has a 2.3 TVS on it so I'm making an educated guess that if a 2007 with the same blower can surpass 2013 numbers with this blower, that the 2013 with its' 5.8 litre displacement must be held back a bit from the factory as it seems to me they could make even more power stock...

 

Malc

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they are ALL held back from the factory...2007-2014. the 2013/14 simply offers you in stock configuration, what you had to previously get from the aftermarket (upgraded supercharger, cold-air kit, new computer tune, 1/4" larger diameter exhaust, higher capacity heat exchanger). with the 5.8L there are some additional cooling jets added around the heads, slightly more aggressive cams (same as Ford GT) and of course, the larger engine displacement is a result of boring out the cylinders, which is otherwise identical to the 5.4L. The 2013/14 also has a smaller pulley (2.6") than the OEM pulley on the Eaton (3") or the pulley that comes with the old FRPP 2.3L TVS kit (3"). throw in some different gearing, and a lightweight drive-shaft and the 2013/14 are not much different from previous model years. OEM boost on a 2007-2012 is in the neighborhood of 8.5lbls, while the 2013/14 OEM boost is more like 15lbs.

Edited by 2007tungstenGT500

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If you are not in a big rush to upgrade, it might be worth waiting until VMP comes out with their new Gen II 2.3L TVS.

Looks like they have a full size model/prototype of it now, you should be able to find some info about it on their site.

Their current 2.3L TVS is capable of well over 700 rwhp depending on mods, their Gen II should be able to produce significant gains over that.

I can vouch that the FRPP (and VMP TVS I believe) fit under the stock or heavy duty KR style strut tower brace, with the engine sitting at stock height.

Keep in mind though that beyond 700 rwhp, you should be putting some serious thought into beefing up the bottom end of the motor.

Edited by msb64

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If you are not in a big rush to upgrade, it might be worth waiting until VMP comes out with their new Gen II 2.3L TVS.

Looks like they have a full size model/prototype of it now, you should be able to find some info about it on their site.

Their current 2.3L TVS is capable of well over 700 rwhp depending on mods, their Gen II should be able to produce significant gains over that.

I can vouch that the FRPP (and VMP TVS I believe) fit under the stock or heavy duty KR style strut tower brace, with the engine sitting at stock height.

Keep in mind though that beyond 700 rwhp, you should be putting some serious thought into beefing up the bottom end of the motor.

 

Agree 100%. If money were no object I'd limit my mods to no more than 700 HP at the crankshaft, not the rear wheels (which you can easily figure is going to eat up 12-14% through drive-train loss). So 700 HP rear wheels is like 805 HP at the crank, which is a lot! Here's an interesting article ALL horsepower junkies ought to mull over before they go haywire with their Mustangs... http://www.hotrod.com/techarticles/general/hrdp_1104_what_breaks_in_2005_2011_ford_mustangs/viewall.html

Edited by 2007tungstenGT500
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I have a similar setup to Mike's (msb64) FRPP 2.3 TVS, VMP high flow elbow, VMP 67mm TB, Steeda CAI and VMP 2.5" pulley and VMP tune. All factory exhaust etc etc. My cost to do this is well under $3000 as I found a slightly used TVS and got some great deals from BJ at VMP.

 

Quite simple mods really, took me about 5 hours total to swap out the parts and put in the tune by myself, never having done it before. The only odd thing I did different was hand port the intake side of the FRPPTVS to match the high flow elbow and managed 654 WHP, 628 WTorque using only a 91 octane mild tune on a Superflow Dyno (Which typically read 5% less than a Dynotech I hear?). I basically mimicked the VMP TVS with the hand porting and probably exceeded the 2013 Ford version.

 

With 93 octane and the appropriate tune, it will push 680WHP, which is close to 800 WHP.

 

To do any more would require an injector upgrade, boost a pump for the fuel system, a bigger CAI (I am pretty sure the Steeda is close to maxxed as it is a 113mm) before doing any other real HP mods. I really have no desire to do any more as it is such a sleeper now and totally reliable with 22MPG.....!

 

Mine is a 2009 Performance White convertible and as we all know, white is the fastest color!

Edited by NorthSnake

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Thanks for the inspiring answers folks! There are some pretty impressive setups there.

 

Basically the answer is (will be when I've got the money...) a TVS (or TVS II....) with the throttle body already incorporated.

 

I already have a 123mm CAI and SCT tuner so it would be the TVS and a related tune along with the heat exchanger...

 

nice...that'll save me saving up for a 2013 which would probably take me about 20 years...1

 

Malc

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I haven't seen any TVS;

 

with the throttle body already incorporated.

 

Although it appears VMP is incorporating the high flow elbow which seems to be how they plan to get the big air flow directly into the rotor pack, I am pretty sure you would still need a 65mm+ sized TB to go with it. Probably a 67 VMP, 72 MM or monoblade. Just something to be aware of.

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I believe they discussed the elbow in newsletters they send out to customers every month or so.

The new version looks like it can move some serious air, and is definitely an option for those looking for big HP & Torque numbers.

As a side benefit, when it does come out and people look to upgrade, that should put some more good used FRPP & VMP TVS blowers on the market.

Judging by the available dyno numbers, the first version VMP blower will flow more air than a high flow port matched FRPP, that is what it was designed and spec'd out for in the first place.

Both are decent pieces though, and capable of 700 - 800+ crank HP depending on accompanying mods.

 

2007tungstenGT500 does bring up a notable concern though.

If you build in lots of power with a stock bottom end and try to push it to its limits, at some point you can end up bulding yourself a gernade.

Probably best to stick with the stock rpm limit of 6200, you might even wat to consider dialing it back to 6000 just to be extra safe.

The motor will make plenty of HP and Torque in that range, for a mostly street car there is no real need to push it any harder.

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Shot of the prototype, it shows the integrated high flow elbow.

At 2999.00, that looks like one heck of a blower at a decent price.

VMP 2 Prototype.jpg

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Thanks folks: the TVS II really looks like the way to go and for the same money as the existing one..

 

Mind you I went out in mine last night and there must've been something in the air because it was a road-eating monster.

 

Quite an amazing car that doesn't seem to really bear any relation to the 2005 GT I owned before this....

 

Malc

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Must be nice, I still have 2 feet of snow in front of my garage door, and there are 5 foot snow banks all along our side streets.

By the time all that goes away and the city cleans up all the sand/gravel/salt off of the roads, it will take at least another month.

NorthSnake must be in the same shape or worse :)

 

The GT500s are nice, for me the sweet spot was when I did the smaller pulley, cai and tune, as that really brought the car to life.

Everything beyond that is pretty much just a bonus.

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Make that 3, previous car was also a Mustang GT, 2006 in Satin Silver and all stock.

Sure wish I could have hung onto that one as well, as it was a nice/fun driver.

Couldn't justify having 2 vehicles that I would only drive on sunny spring/summer/fall days though :)

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be cautious as you approach 700 rwhp. Your 123 mm intake is at the limit for measurement with the stock sensor, and your fuel injectors are starting to reach full duty cycle......I would suggest giving a call or email to BJ at VMP tuning for how far you can go without dealing with those items. You also need to consider how much pressure and heat you want to run thru your catalytic converters.......they can go bad, and potentially cause a clog in the exhaust pipe if degradation occurs...there are a few things to consider to be safe at that level.

Edited by KCMO-GT500

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on a 07 i would recommend a replacing the heavy lower crank pulley with either a 2008 and up or go to a 10% overdrive unit while you are there

 

you will save quite a few lbs of rotating mass either way.. :whistling:

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An FRPP or VMP TVS blower and throttle body will easily put you past the 2013 numbers.

 

I am only running an FRPP TVS with a 72mm TB, 2.5" upper, 90mm idler, an FRPP 113mm CAI and a VMP tune.

The only other changes are 1 step colder in plugs, gapped them to .032", and running an HD green blower belt.

With a full stock exhaust system, the car dynoned (Powerdyne Mustang Dyno) 624 rwhp and 645 lbft torque.

 

If you went to something like the VMP TVS and a 67mm TB, with a 2.5 or 2.4" upper you would easily be beyond my numbers.

Those parts are very easy to install too, I consider them to be bolt-ons in terms of ease of install.

The car has the same driveability as stock too, but really wakes up when you put your foot into it.

I agree my setup is very similar and I have 750hp with VMP mods and at idle purrs like a kitten but get in it and the roaring tiger is unleashed.

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All I have on mine is JLT cold air, 2.6" metco pulley, upgraded heat exchanger for the intercooler, dyno tuned by Stang Hi performance, and am pulling 550 RWHP 545 RWTq on a 80F day (who knows when it's say 60F).

That is easily over 625hp at the crank... 11.81 in the quarter with me driving...

I would go with that first and upgrade the bushings in the rear suspension to get rid of the bunny hop... Another story though.

Edited by rsfdiver

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If you are not in a big rush to upgrade, it might be worth waiting until VMP comes out with their new Gen II 2.3L TVS.

Looks like they have a full size model/prototype of it now, you should be able to find some info about it on their site.

Their current 2.3L TVS is capable of well over 700 rwhp depending on mods, their Gen II should be able to produce significant gains over that.

I can vouch that the FRPP (and VMP TVS I believe) fit under the stock or heavy duty KR style strut tower brace, with the engine sitting at stock height.

Keep in mind though that beyond 700 rwhp, you should be putting some serious thought into beefing up the bottom end of the motor.

I believe if you keep your rev limiter at no more that 6400rpm your bottom end will handle much higher than 700rwhp.

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I believe if you keep your rev limiter at no more that 6400rpm your bottom end will handle much higher than 700rwhp.

Even after my mods I can't set the rev limiter higher than 6,000rpm using the dash controls. I presume setting it higher may be an option on the SCT?

 

Malc

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Shot of the prototype, it shows the integrated high flow elbow.

At 2999.00, that looks like one heck of a blower at a decent price.

.

 

Is there a link? I can't seem to find it.

 

Edit. Never mind I found it

Edited by sheppd01

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Most folks upgrade there injectors and fuel pumps if you go with the TVS. Its better to be safe than sorry. I do know that SAI kept the stock fuel pump and injectors with there 725 SS package.

It's getting to the point where there is so much H/P on the sdtreet these days that I wonder where it will all end. I have a CAI and pulley and I have no traction on a 70 degree day.

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Thanks folks: the TVS II really looks like the way to go and for the same money as the existing one..Mind you I went out in mine last night and there must've been something in the air because it was a road-eating monster.Quite an amazing car that doesn't seem to really bear any relation to the 2005 GT I owned before this....Malc

I bought a 2013 take off blower on Ebay for $1,500. It came with the throttle body. I change the harmonic balancer and installed. JLT 123mm CAI. Got the SCT4 with a VMP tune. So I went from pure stock to this set up. WOW is all I can say. I have Nitto 305-40-18 lower spring in the back and all BMR suspension parts in the back. It hooks pretty good once the tire are warm. It is now a fun car. I just bought a dual fan three row inter cooler from VMP that I should install this week end. These cars are easy to work on. Give it a try. It is the best part to do your own work and go for a test drive following every improvements.

Edited by Shelby3

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Not sure what pulley comes on your 2013 take off blower, but VMP has a 2.5" one that is designed to fit any of the popular blowers.

Might be a cheap way for you to dial in a bit more power.

 

Just did a few more mods myself, Nitto 555R 285s on the rear stock wheels, complete 3.73 axle assembly and the Ford Racing M-5230-S mufflers.

Ran a best of 11.33 and 125.35 mph early this year, hopefully these recent additions should help drop the ET a bit.

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Not sure what pulley comes on your 2013 take off blower, but VMP has a 2.5" one that is designed to fit any of the popular blowers.

Might be a cheap way for you to dial in a bit more power.

 

Just did a few more mods myself, Nitto 555R 285s on the rear stock wheels, complete 3.73 axle assembly and the Ford Racing M-5230-S mufflers.

Ran a best of 11.33 and 125.35 mph early this year, hopefully these recent additions should help drop the ET a bit.

That is a great time. I will track mine in Jersey this summer. I hope to have a time like yours. Did they give you a hard time with a roll bar? I didn't measure the pulley. I think the injectors would be borderline if I push any harder. May be next round of mods once I test it at the track. Edited by Shelby3

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The 2.5" pulley on top should be ok, but going bigger on the balancer (10 or 15%) will definitely require an injector upgrade.

If you do go for the smaller pulley, get the 90mm idler as well so you can retain the stock length belt.

 

Seems like roll bar enforcement depends on the track officials mood, back in 2012 they were tossing people that were just dipping into the 11.40s without a roll bar.

If you go on a test and tune day when they are not so busy, they are more likely to be more forgiving.

This year I did an 11.33 and next pass did an 11.34 and they didn't say anything, but I didn't want to push my luck and stopped trying after that.

I had the Nittos down to 16lbs and did 3 - 5 second burnouts, but still had to do a relatively soft launch to maintain traction.

Best results were with a slower clutch release and controlled squeeze down on gas for 1st gear, takes a bit of practice to get it right.

Too much launch rpm, too quick a clutch release or too quick on the gas pedal to the floor just breaks the tires loose.

My car dynoed at just over 645 lbs ft of torque at 3525 rpm on a Mustang dyno, which explains why the launches are so touchy.

ET can vary greatly according to how well you can hook up, but mph is usually fairly constant and a pretty good indicator of true hp to the wheels.

I had also removed the front sway bar for the track runs, and the car handles surprisingly well for daily driving without it.

I am hoping the new gears will help move the car off the line a little quicker, and possibly a little more mph with the less restrictive exhaust.

Edited by msb64

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The 2.5" pulley on top should be ok, but going bigger on the balancer (10 or 15%) will definitely require an injector upgrade.

If you do go for the smaller pulley, get the 90mm idler as well so you can retain the stock length belt.

 

Seems like roll bar enforcement depends on the track officials mood, back in 2012 they were tossing people that were just dipping into the 11.40s without a roll bar.

If you go on a test and tune day when they are not so busy, they are more likely to be more forgiving.

This year I did an 11.33 and next pass did an 11.34 and they didn't say anything, but I didn't want to push my luck and stopped trying after that.

I had the Nittos down to 16lbs and did 3 - 5 second burnouts, but still had to do a relatively soft launch to maintain traction.

Best results were with a slower clutch release and controlled squeeze down on gas for 1st gear, takes a bit of practice to get it right.

Too much launch rpm, too quick a clutch release or too quick on the gas pedal to the floor just breaks the tires loose.

My car dynoed at just over 645 lbs ft of torque at 3525 rpm on a Mustang dyno, which explains why the launches are so touchy.

ET can vary greatly according to how well you can hook up, but mph is usually fairly constant and a pretty good indicator of true hp to the wheels.

I had also removed the front sway bar for the track runs, and the car handles surprisingly well for daily driving without it.

I am hoping the new gears will help move the car off the line a little quicker, and possibly a little more mph with the less restrictive exhaust.

Thanks for the tips. Any issues with 16psi in the Nittos?

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No, even down at 16lbs (warm) they are well behaved throughout the run and even at the top end shut down.

Can't say the same about the M&H 325/50R15s drag radials I have tried in the past though.

With the 15s, as soon as you got off the gas at the top end, the back end would start bouncing up and down as well as moving side to side because of the taller/flexible sidewalls.

That takes a bit of getting used to at 125+mph, especially on a car that usually doesn't move around at all unless you make it move.

With the 18" Nittos the excess movement was hardly noticable at all, very well behaved.

You might even be able to try dropping down to 15 or even 14 lbs, but probably shouldn't go below that.

I run mine at 32lbs on the street, and then drop them down when I get to the strip.

A portable 12V compressor works great for pumping them back up when you are done at the strip.

Get a decent digital tire pressure gauge, and check them frequently.

If one side/tire is in the direct hot sunlight, it can vary the pressure by several pounds.

The burnout can also raise the pressures as well, but at least then it shoudl be close to the same on each side.

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No, even down at 16lbs (warm) they are well behaved throughout the run and even at the top end shut down.

Can't say the same about the M&H 325/50R15s drag radials I have tried in the past though.

With the 15s, as soon as you got off the gas at the top end, the back end would start bouncing up and down as well as moving side to side because of the taller/flexible sidewalls.

That takes a bit of getting used to at 125+mph, especially on a car that usually doesn't move around at all unless you make it move.

With the 18" Nittos the excess movement was hardly noticable at all, very well behaved.

You might even be able to try dropping down to 15 or even 14 lbs, but probably shouldn't go below that.

I run mine at 32lbs on the street, and then drop them down when I get to the strip.

A portable 12V compressor works great for pumping them back up when you are done at the strip.

Get a decent digital tire pressure gauge, and check them frequently.

If one side/tire is in the direct hot sunlight, it can vary the pressure by several pounds.

The burnout can also raise the pressures as well, but at least then it shoudl be close to the same on each side.

Thanks man. Hope to get to the track late August.

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