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1badsho

Installing New Blower This Fall Need Advice

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I am installing 373 gears and this fall will put a new TVS Gen II 2.3 blower on that will end me up around 600 rwhp

I also plan to upgrade the cooling to the blower too

Thats all I want( sure) but really thats good. I never drag race .... dont take the car to the track ... i like the quick accleration from 5-10 mph to the current legal speed limit where ever that might be

My question is this .... I believe the motor and factory drive train is safe at this level .... correct ?

I dont want to swap out drive shafts or tax the motor's internals

any input is appreciated .... planning on VMP doing the work

 

dond

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I am installing 373 gears and this fall will put a new TVS Gen II 2.3 blower on that will end me up around 600 rwhp

 

I also plan to upgrade the cooling to the blower too

 

Thats all I want( sure) but really thats good. I never drag race .... dont take the car to the track ... i like the quick accleration from 5-10 mph to the current legal speed limit where ever that might be

 

My question is this .... I believe the motor and factory drive train is safe at this level .... correct ?

 

I dont want to swap out drive shafts or tax the motor's internals

 

any input is appreciated .... planning on VMP doing the work

 

 

dond

 

 

 

with proper tuning etc the engine should be just fine.........Justin and/or BJ at VMP will make sure that you have enough fuel and air supply to make it all work. I don't think you will need new injectors, but you may very well need a larger intake tube. You would be well advised to also change your harmonic balancer to the 08 or newer type (which are lighter and less likeby to have a problem with increased hp). I had no issues with my oem driveshaft at that power level, but it all depends on your tires and how well you hook up. Too much traction translates to too much stress on the drivetrain. At that point the weak link becomes the driveshaft. Good luck with the upgrades.

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...and for what its worth, the tvs gen 2 could easily reach 700 rwhp.........might only require injectors and a new throttle body. hp is like money....you can't really ever have enough.....but you probably already know that....lol

 

Don....it has been a bunch of years, but I recall you from the early days....hope all is well.

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Its has, All is well and I too recall you as well ! Hard to keep active with a group when you sell the car the group promotes. This is my second GT500, a clone of the first.

 

The first car had 410 gears and about 540 rwhp. I want more hp but putting less gears in it to be close to what I had. I also know this blower for a few more dollars can put me alot higher in hp too.

 

 

 

don d

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to be honest....with about 700 rwhp, my stock gearing of 331 is more than enough, plus allows for great gas mileage on highway with no drone from higher rpms.............with the over 700 torque that kicks in around 3600 rpm, who needs more gearing???? Just sayin'

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With my first gt500 and with 410 gears and 550 rwhp that was pretty quick. I know at 600 rwhp and 373 gears i may need to switch to nittos Had those on my other car.

 

I also know that I will need better rear suspension components to get traction to the ground. All in good time !!

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Now I need advice from the team shelby forum collective!!

My car is currently set up with 373 gears, off road x pipe and CAI and tune.

Now that I have the approval from Momma ..... and a budget of about $3800 +/- ... I want as much hp as I can get with out issues. This is my second GT500 ... My first GT500 had a tune CAI pulley and was dynoed about 550 rwhp on a cold day and lastly 410 gears. I want to run the stock fuel system and use the stock drive train which mean no after market one piece drive shaft. THis car will never see a hard launch or a drag strip .... generally speaking what are the two piece drive shafts good up to hp wise before they start to become problematic ?

Are there any other issues I should address that I am not thinking of ??

With the tvs 2.3 i want to be in the low 600rwhp range .... and IF later ..... i decide to go more I know I can make the changes necesary to accomodate the extra hp.

I appreciate anyone and everyones opinion !

 

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Didnt get alot of responce but went ahead and placed the order.

 

Ordered from Vmp tuning the TVS 2.3 blower ... 90 mm idler ... 67mm TB

Next mth the tri pass dual fan heat exchanger will be next.

Thanks BJ !!

 

dond

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My order will be at my dealership tomorrow. Had to pony up though on some more "stuff" as I call it.

Per bj's recommendation with the fuel rails off when the new blower goes on I got bigger injectors per his recomendation.

That and colder plugs which I got from the dealership.

So sometime this week my tech will install the new TVS 2.3 blower, twin jet TB ... bigger injectors and colder plugs and than i down load the tune.

I will advise everyone once all is completed.

Now I replennish the coffers for LCA .... one piece drive shaft .... heat exchanger with fans .....etc etc etc anything else Bj ? smile.gif

progress.gif

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Works out after all, you ended up getting advice from someone who really knows their stuff.

But so much for only 600rwhp, with either the Gen I or Gen II :)

You should add a McLeod RXT clutch to the top of your list, if you are still running the stock one.

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stock clutch still in ... but its the second one based on the previous owners info ..... i will let it last as long as possible but since im not a drag strip fan my claim to fame will be quick starts from a rolling start with the clutch fully engaged and no fast reving shifting ..... with the TVS 2.3 blower .... bigger injectors .... twin jet TB off road x pipe and a conservative tune using the 2.5 pully I should be mid 600 range rwhp .... anyone else want to chime in !!

Edited by 1badsho

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If you end up going to a one piece ds I would recommend getting a replacement front flange and installing the '13/'14 GT500's cf ds. It is a very worthwhile addition.

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If that is the Gen II TVS that you are talking about and with the components that you have listed, that is essentially what they put in their 800 crank hp kit.

That would put you closer to the 700 rwhp mark with a good tune.

Not a bad thing, but does make the driveshaft upgrade more appealing especially if you get some sticky tires.

You do have the option of pulling some timing with your SCT tuner, or run a bigger pulley if you want to drop it a bit.

Your new 373 gears should help your clutch last a little longer too.

I have a TSB replaced clutch and it is still holding up, even with moderate strip use on drag radials.

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my clutch was replaced under the tsb in 08 ..... car has 30000 miles on so i think i am ok clutch wise esp dependent on how i drive the car

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My first Shelby in 07 as do all Shelbys had the black valve covers which I hated. I ordered in 08 the FordGT valve covers since the heads are identical but ford blue in color.

 

Those are no longer in production but I had my black valve covers that were from my original 07 GT500 so I had them powder coated blue and they will be installed next week with the blower and all the other goodies by my Ford shop !!!!!! :)

post-7556-0-08353900-1407971244_thumb.jpg

Edited by 1badsho

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My first Shelby in 07 as do all Shelbys had the black valve covers which I hated. I ordered in 08 the FordGT valve covers since the heads are identical but ford blue in color.

 

Those are no longer in production but I had my black valve covers that were from my original 07 GT500 so I had them powder coated blue and they will be installed next week with the blower and all the other goodies by my Ford shop !!!!!! :)

Just curious, I didn't see if you replaced the harmonic balancer. It is recommended if you have the original 2007 and perform TVS upgrade. I have 23,000 miles and my clutch never had an issue. With the Nittos and TVS it is slipping in higher gears. I just bought a McLeod RXT and a driving shaft from VMP.

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Just curious, I didn't see if you replaced the harmonic balancer. It is recommended if you have the original 2007 and perform TVS upgrade. I have 23,000 miles and my clutch never had an issue. With the Nittos and TVS it is slipping in higher gears. I just bought a McLeod RXT and a driving shaft from VMP.

Harmonic balancer was replaced .....

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Just put on a Gen2 myself with a 2.6" upper, curious to see what kind of changes it makes, along with a new SVT axle assembly with 3.73 gears.

Best of 11.33 @ 125.35 earlier this year with FRPP TVS, 2.5" upper, 72mm TB, FRPP 113mm CAI, 3.31s and Nitto 555R 285s.

Fairly soft launches so far as anything too aggressive just breaks the Nittos loose, hope the 3.73s help with the launch.

Only one track meet left in our season though, hope the weather cooperates.

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Thanks for the trust guys. I haven't even had "Christine" out to see how she does on the track yet! Busy...and it's of course like living on the sun here til Oct at least. Let us all know how you do!

 

bj

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The Gen2 is an impressive unit, and very easy to install.

You definitely don't need a dyno to detect the increase in hp and torque.

On the street and at street pressures on the Nittos, there is plenty of tire spin now in 3rd.

On the track with pressures down to 15 lbs, now get tire spin in 2nd if I am too fast on the shift or hard on the throttle.

I only managed to get down to an 11.38 this time around, just didn't have long enough to learn the new combination.

The gears helped with the launch, but sped up/moved the shift points which takes some getting used to.

Plus the added power and torque of the Gen2 did the same, and made clutch release and low gear throttle control even touchier than before.

My 60 footers were not good with the best being a 1.801, which accounts for a lot of added ET.

The car is stock weight, with only rear upper and lower lcas for suspension changes, and I dropped the front sway bar for the track.

I did get my best mph speeds though, 101.17 at the 1/8th mile and 127.05 for 1/4 mile.

 

Pretty happy with the results, looking forward to some fuel, air, pulley upgrades over the winter.

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Since my last post .... I have the one piece drive shaft in place and all my goodies. Had to get a True Trac locker from Eaton and now planning on getting Nitto 555 and Nitto 555r's in the rear

 

I have lowered the car and have the LCA from BMR. Still driving the stock clutch but it should be ok since Im not a drag strip guy

 

When I went to visit Bj I dynode the car and was at 664 rwhp and 637 torque

 

Im happy !

 

 

dond

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My order will be at my dealership tomorrow. Had to pony up though on some more "stuff" as I call it.

 

Per bj's recommendation with the fuel rails off when the new blower goes on I got bigger injectors per his recomendation.

 

That and colder plugs which I got from the dealership.

 

So sometime this week my tech will install the new TVS 2.3 blower, twin jet TB ... bigger injectors and colder plugs and than i down load the tune.

 

I will advise everyone once all is completed.

 

Now I replennish the coffers for LCA .... one piece drive shaft .... heat exchanger with fans .....etc etc etc anything else Bj ? smile.gif

progress.gif

 

 

 

Great list so far!! A one piece ds with a safety loop is a lot safer than the 2 piece imo... What about a bigger cai? Lol, we can help spend your money!!

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Since my last post .... I have the one piece drive shaft in place and all my goodies. Had to get a True Trac locker from Eaton and now planning on getting Nitto 555 and Nitto 555r's in the rear

 

I have lowered the car and have the LCA from BMR. Still driving the stock clutch but it should be ok since Im not a drag strip guy

 

When I went to visit Bj I dynode the car and was at 664 rwhp and 637 torque

 

Im happy !

 

 

dond

 

The eaton tru track diff is awesome!! Might as well throw some moser or starnge axles in at the same time!! I would start a clutch fund too, Mcloud RXT imo...

Edited by OCD

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Those BMR LCAs are nice looking pieces, just ordered a pair myself.

I also ordered the JLT 123mm CAI, 56lb injectors and a 2.4" upper from VMP to dial mine up a bit.

Not sure if you have done so already, with your car being lowered, you should definitely consider the BMR LCA relocation brackets to correct the geometry.

You will need to drop the LCAs at the rear end a position or 2 for optimum hook up.

Don't forget to gap your colder plugs down to .032 to prevent possible spark blowout under the added boost.

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Since my last post .... I have the one piece drive shaft in place and all my goodies. Had to get a True Trac locker from Eaton and now planning on getting Nitto 555 and Nitto 555r's in the rear

 

I have lowered the car and have the LCA from BMR. Still driving the stock clutch but it should be ok since Im not a drag strip guy

 

When I went to visit Bj I dynode the car and was at 664 rwhp and 637 torque

 

Im happy !

 

 

dond

Hi Don, I am in the state of some upgrading too this winter. Installing everything this coming months. Everything from the Ford Racing intercooler and lower in my signature. Not cheap being out in Europe. Car has a lot of mods already. Aiming for 700+ rwhp. When the clutch is gone I will upgrade to a Spec and DSS driveshaft. When the seats and belts are in I will do some trackdays. Edited by DutchGT500

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Im pretty much where I want the car to be. Nittos are on .... car looks great and hooks up strong.

 

I did have to order and install a adj panhard rod to re-center my rear end.

 

Now that I can hook up I'll just enjoy the new found speed and wait for the mod bug to hit me again.

 

 

don

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You should take your car out to the track at least once, and get a few buddies to go out and run as well to make it fun.

Even with a soft launch and with the mods you already have, you will still be hitting close to 130mph at the 1/4 mile, and not have to worry about getting a ticket :)

It will be easy to get a good mph, but getting a low et will be tougher though, and most of that is in the first 60 feet.

Don't be surprised to see something like a 1.8 - 2 sec 60 foot, unless you have good drag radials or slicks and suspension work.

Seems like many street/strip cars with the right goodies and properly set up can get into the 1.4 - 1.5 sec 60 foot range.

You'll probably find it hard to keep from spinning even with the Nittos, so in 1st and probably 2nd you may have to squeeze down on the gas instead of stomping it.

If you want to avoid getting rubber all over the back of your car and take it easy on your rear brakes, just bypass the water box / burnout area like the regular street cars do.

Borrow a gopro or similar video camera any you can get some good in car shots of the runs, always fun to check out later.

If you don't break anything it is a lot of fun, just stay away from hard launches (dumping the clutch) and power shifting (wide open throttle) and you should be good.

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If you think that you will ever want to upgrade the oem 2007-2012 I/C in the future with either the more efficient 2013/14 I/C or the even more efficient KB BIGUN I/C, now would be the time, while the blower is off............Just a thought......

 

The I/C upgrade is something to be thought about with any "blower off" work that is done. That is the time, "if" that is also a planned upgrade in the future.

 

 

R

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