Jump to content
  • Announcements

    • Staff

      ABOUT TEAM SHELBY   01/01/2007

          Member Benefits:   First, there's the Team Shelby swag. No other club packs your membership kit with more than Team Shelby! Whether you are a renewing member or new to the “family” of Shelby enthusiast worldwide, our goal is to help you enjoy a high-octane lifestyle!   From a Unique Membership Card, Team Shelby Calendar, Team Shelby Hat, Team Shelby T-Shirt, Windshield Cling, Team Shelby License Plate, and Lapel Pin -  the contents of your Team Shelby Membership Kit more than pay for your membership alone!   In addition, your membership includes:   Exclusive Access to Team Shelby Member Forums   10% discounts at Carroll Shelby's Stores in Las Vegas and Los Angeles (present current member card for discount)   Driving Experiences   Invitations to Exclusive Team Shelby Member Events   Insider information from Shelby American   Affiliate Partner Discounts   Updated January 2, 2019. Team Shelby Club 2019 Team Shelby Membership Kit Please note that membership contents are subject to change.   Team Shelby was designed and engineered by real enthusiasts inside and out of Shelby.   Team Shelby was originally formed in 2008 by Carroll Shelby. He wanted to create a club for people to truly enjoy their cars. He knew the world had changed, and he wanted his companies to meet the needs of the new generation of Shelby owners. His vision was to knit together those people with the owners of early Shelby's and give everyone fun new ways to experience their high performance vehicles.   Mr. Shelby imagined a place where owners could talk about their latest conquests at the track, swap stories, share photos and learn new ways to hot rod their cars! He wanted to link all of the enthusiasts into one "dream garage"... thus, Team Shelby was born!   Team Shelby has many free, open access forums, news sections and member only areas dedicated to the community.   In addition, Team Shelby has a full series of events for 2019, which include VIP Experiences, track days, National & Regional gatherings, cruises, car shows and more! Ownership of a Shelby is not required to be a member. The club is dedicated to serving all Shelby enthusiasts past and present including those that own cars built in the 1960's and Shelby Dodges too! Carroll Shelby (Team Shelby Member #001) said: "We built Team Shelby for anyone who is passionate about Shelby cars! We’ll have a blast and we'll do it the Shelby way!   Yearly Membership Rates   U.S. $49.99 | Canada & Mexico $59.99 | E.U., others $65.99   Join the Team Shelby Club   click here to choose a Team Shelby Club subscription package.   Membership Kit Arrival   Your Team Shelby Club membership kit and I.D.card will generally arrive within 6-8 weeks.   Need Help?   Email Brianna:  e-mail her here.  
    • ForumAdmin

      Having Problems Logging In To Team Shelby ?   02/12/2018

      If you are having a problem logging in to Team Shelby since the software change made last December/January please send an email to bfawn@shelby.com  Please include your real name and Team Shelby user id in this email so that we may look into what the problem might be. Thank you.
    • ForumAdmin

      * * * 2019 TS VEGAS BASH TICKETS AVAILABLE * * *   01/24/2019

      2019 Bash Tickets
brianspony

I need advice for fuel problem

Recommended Posts

I need some help......kind of stumped here. I have only driven my 66 yearly for it's annual inspection sticker for the past few years. I tried taking it this past Tuesday and could not keep it running. I'm afraid even though I have been adding Stabil to my gas I'm afraid the little bit of gas I had has lost it's power. I added 3 gallons to a nearly empty tank and was able to get it started, but it ran rough. I added another 5 gallons of gas and a bottle of Heet thinking it needed some for the moisture that was in the tank, but it seemed to still idle very rough. A friend of mine suggested adding a gas additive Lucas to it and said if that doesn't help I may need to rebuild my carburetor. He claims the gas with the ethanol is killing our older cars. I restored this car 10 years ago and rebuilt the motor and only has roughly 10,000 miles on it since. The car has plenty of power when I open it up, but still runs very rough. Any suggestions?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I need some help......kind of stumped here. I have only driven my 66 yearly for it's annual inspection sticker for the past few years. I tried taking it this past Tuesday and could not keep it running. I'm afraid even though I have been adding Stabil to my gas I'm afraid the little bit of gas I had has lost it's power. I added 3 gallons to a nearly empty tank and was able to get it started, but it ran rough. I added another 5 gallons of gas and a bottle of Heet thinking it needed some for the moisture that was in the tank, but it seemed to still idle very rough. A friend of mine suggested adding a gas additive Lucas to it and said if that doesn't help I may need to rebuild my carburetor. He claims the gas with the ethanol is killing our older cars. I restored this car 10 years ago and rebuilt the motor and only has roughly 10,000 miles on it since. The car has plenty of power when I open it up, but still runs very rough. Any suggestions?

I had a similar problem. Sounds like a lot of crap in the fuel lines and carb. Check the timing two. Two things I had to do; Rebuild the carb and replace the fuel tank with a new one. The carb was cleaned, cleaned out the jets and the float was checked for proper adjustment. As far as the fuel tank, just to be sure of cleanliness and age, I replace it with a new one, replaced all old rubber fuel lines and blew out all aluminum fuel lines with an air compressor. While installing the new tank, I went ahead and replace the fuel sending unit with a new one. Once back together, timing adjusted, new spark plugs and inspection for good plug wires were done, she purrs like a kitten. I had a speed shop do the carb and timing adjustments, while I installed plugs, fuel lines and the tank. Hope this helps.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I had a similar problem. Sounds like a lot of crap in the fuel lines and carb. Check the timing two. Two things I had to do; Rebuild the carb and replace the fuel tank with a new one. The carb was cleaned, cleaned out the jets and the float was checked for proper adjustment. As far as the fuel tank, just to be sure of cleanliness and age, I replace it with a new one, replaced all old rubber fuel lines and blew out all aluminum fuel lines with an air compressor. While installing the new tank, I went ahead and replace the fuel sending unit with a new one. Once back together, timing adjusted, new spark plugs and inspection for good plug wires were done, she purrs like a kitten. I had a speed shop do the carb and timing adjustments, while I installed plugs, fuel lines and the tank. Hope this helps.

 

I wish I had drained what little gas I had in my tank before adding fresh gas this week. I replaced the fuel tank 10 years ago when I restored the car and added a new sending unit as well. I will go right thru it over the next few days and follow what you did to yours. I was looking into the Sta-Bil I have used over the years as a winter storage gas additive, and was reading an article on the 360* Sta-bil for ethanol gas. Might give that a try this winter. Thanks for you input. :)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

No problem. Hope it helps you. Good luck and let me know how it goes.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

If you stored the car for an extended period the ethanol may have separated and the fuel at the bottom of the tank could be as much as 40 to 60 percent ethanol and water. Before doing any of the above suggested fixes you may want to simply drain the tank and fuel lines and refill with fresh gas. Pouring fresh gas into a tank that has ethanol and water that has settled out does not "reblend" with fresh gas and can cause intermittent stalls and rough idle.

Edited by mhr1961

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

First, I would tell you to enjoy your 66 and drive it at least once a month. Gas separation from the ethanol is only a small part of the problem as the fuel system is not sealed as it is in fuel injected cars. Corrosion can set in anywhere from the tank to the carb float bowls. Adding Seafoam (which is far superior to StaBil) will help, but a year takes its toll on the entire system, including the brake lines, cooling system, points and such as well as the fuel system. We run our 65 and 66 Ponies at least every few weeks on the road until the engine has run at operating temp for at least ten minutes. No need for a battery tender or worries about the fuel separating. You might want to ditch the points for Petronix system (or similar) also.

 

If you can get non-thanol fuel (usually available for boaters) use it. Most places near marinas or boat yards have it at 89 or 91 octane.

 

Good luck. :cool:

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

 

I wish I had drained what little gas I had in my tank before adding fresh gas this week. I replaced the fuel tank 10 years ago when I restored the car and added a new sending unit as well. I will go right thru it over the next few days and follow what you did to yours. I was looking into the Sta-Bil I have used over the years as a winter storage gas additive, and was reading an article on the 360* Sta-bil for ethanol gas. Might give that a try this winter. Thanks for you input. :)

 

I would start by removing the carb & cleaning it sounds like you have some dirt in it causing the rough idle, put some fresh gas in it & I think you will be good to go . This has happen to both my 65` s over the years.

No matter how much sta-bul you use it doesn`t stop fine particles of dirt from entering places such as jets & adjustment needles.

Edited by shelby001

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

First, I would tell you to enjoy your 66 and drive it at least once a month. Gas separation from the ethanol is only a small part of the problem as the fuel system is not sealed as it is in fuel injected cars. Corrosion can set in anywhere from the tank to the carb float bowls. Adding Seafoam (which is far superior to StaBil) will help, but a year takes its toll on the entire system, including the brake lines, cooling system, points and such as well as the fuel system. We run our 65 and 66 Ponies at least every few weeks on the road until the engine has run at operating temp for at least ten minutes. No need for a battery tender or worries about the fuel separating. You might want to ditch the points for Petronix system (or similar) also.

 

If you can get non-thanol fuel (usually available for boaters) use it. Most places near marinas or boat yards have it at 89 or 91 octane.

 

Good luck. :cool:

Good point about the Petronix. :headscratch: Hmmm? :idea: Look at that, I made a joke! :hysterical: I have used Petronix and it has lasted years!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Update. I added a full tank of 93 octane and a bottle of Lucas fuel treatment a few weeks ago. With the car off I cleaned the carb with carb cleaner and pulled off the fuel filter and blew it out with air. I restarted the engine and cleaned the carb again with cleaner with it running. I have run it several times since and it is running much better. I plan to remove the carb this winter and tear it apart and clean it good. I have also bought a bottle of the 360* StaBil for ethanol gas and will add this to both my Mustang and Shelby this winter. Also when I restored it 10 years ago I switched it over from points to the Petronix and was so glad I did. Thanks for everyone and their input. I need to start it more often and drive it more often. Thanks again to everyone. :)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Update. I added a full tank of 93 octane and a bottle of Lucas fuel treatment a few weeks ago. With the car off I cleaned the carb with carb cleaner and pulled off the fuel filter and blew it out with air. I restarted the engine and cleaned the carb again with cleaner with it running. I have run it several times since and it is running much better. I plan to remove the carb this winter and tear it apart and clean it good. I have also bought a bottle of the 360* StaBil for ethanol gas and will add this to both my Mustang and Shelby this winter. Also when I restored it 10 years ago I switched it over from points to the Petronix and was so glad I did. Thanks for everyone and their input. I need to start it more often and drive it more often. Thanks again to everyone. :)

I have used Petronix when they were first made available for Mustangs & they are still going strong .

Edited by shelby001

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I have similiar issues with my 71 Bronco. When I used to run the ethanol blend and the truck sat, I would end up with rust colored gas in the gas filter.

 

Stopped using the ehanol blend and went to using just "real" gas and all my problems solved.

 

Here in Florida, you can get "real" gas, but its a special trip to a Fuel Depot about 20 miles away. Its a PIA but it solved my problem...worth the extra money and mileage.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


×