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Anyone Install Their Own LCA Relocation Brackets? Will the Dealer Install?

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I bought the BMR lower control arm relocation brackets. Anyone install their own? I would be doing this on jack stands. I am thinking of taking it to the dealer. Not sure if they have a problem with installing aftermarket parts, even though you could order similar brackets through Ford Racing. With a lift, I can't imagine it taking more than 2 hours "book time".

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Easy install. Did mine on jack stands and took about an hour.

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Easy bolt on install but to make it really work it is better to have them welded in place......especially if you plan on tracking the car.

 

GT

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Easy job in your garage with jack stands. Did mine and no issues.

Good luck with the mod.

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Easy bolt on install but to make it really work it is better to have them welded in place......especially if you plan on tracking the car.

 

GT

The BMR brackets do not require welding. Even on their website they state welding is not required. If I was running a 9 second, serious full race machine with a 15" rear slick then maybe. But for normal street and track use it's not necessary.

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Yeah, I bought the BMR because they claim to run low 9s/1.3 60' times without welding. I guess the next question, what hole do you run them on with Eibach Black Springs (Pro Kit?) on either regular performance tires, or drag radials? Not the setting for slicks, as I would only run up to a drag radial.

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I had Steeda brackets welded in but am tempted to switch to Maximum Motorsports. All that grinding seems like too much work to remove them however. They do help keepmthe rear planted though.

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Yeah, I bought the BMR because they claim to run low 9s/1.3 60' times without welding. I guess the next question, what hole do you run them on with Eibach Black Springs (Pro Kit?) on either regular performance tires, or drag radials? Not the setting for slicks, as I would only run up to a drag radial.

 

With a lowered car, the key is to get the rear end of the LCA back to it's original position or lower. On my Eibach coilover set up, the top hole put me back to the LCA position when it was originally from the Ford assy. line (or very close)........

 

009_zpsbcf74ca1.jpg

010_zpsc80e6427.jpg

 

I dropped it down to the second hole to position the rear of the LCA a little lower than the front which moves the IC (Instant Center) back further and is more ideal for better traction..........

 

011_zpsc67708c1.jpg

012_zps2123bf6c.jpg

 

The best way to install and see what angle you are actually adjusting with the hole choice is to have the car sitting level on a 4 post lift or on Race Ramps (all four corners up at the same level) and watch the angle change as shown in the pictures above. The further down the rear of the LCA is, in comparison to the front, the better IC and traction will be achieved.

 

The FRPP relo brackets are nice pieces, but they do not have the adjustability like the BMR's.

 

 

 

 

R

Edited by Robert M

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I added some BMR rear suspension upgrades to my 11, the same question came up about which hole to bolt the LCA's.

OP, I did a thread showing pictures & install info,link below if interested.
http://www.fordgt500.com/forums/6-performance-modifications/125793-few-bmr-rear-suspension-mods.html

 

This is info from Kelly (BMR Tech)

 

 

 

There is no standard or magical position on the brackets.

Tires, gearing, transmision, weather, driving style, driver preference, etc etc ++ determines the position you should use.

I recommend people positions based on what they specifically tell me they want - after knowing their combination and driving style.

Without knowing this stuff, I usually recommend people run:

Top Hole: Stock Height car
Middle Hole: Lowered car
Bottom Hole: Lowered > 1.5"

These are basic recommendations. If you have an all out drag car, or all out road course car then the settings wouldnt really be based on the list above.

Of course....it just depends. This is based on a stock height S197 platform...not a GT with a SC...or a SVTPP GT500 etc. Those cars sit different. For example, if you get a Track Pack/SVTPP 2014 GT500...I would tell the average customer to use the middle position.

The best thing to do is try all of them and see what you like best.

Happy Modding!

 

Colin

Edited by Colin1966

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With a lowered car, the key is to get the rear end of the LCA back to it's original position or lower. On my Eibach coilover set up, the top hole put me back to the LCA position when it was originally from the Ford assy. line (or very close)........

 

 

 

 

I dropped it down to the second hole to position the rear of the LCA a little lower than the front which moves the IC (Instant Center) back further and is more ideal for better traction..........

 

 

 

 

The best way to install and see what angle you are actually adjusting with the hole choice is to have the car sitting level on a 4 post lift or on Race Ramps (all four corners up at the same level) and watch the angle change as shown in the pictures above. The further down the rear of the LCA is, in comparison to the front, the better IC and traction will be achieved.

 

The FRPP relo brackets are nice pieces, but they do not have the adjustability like the BMR's.

 

 

 

R

 

 

Good stuff Robert! Did you try the bottom position too?

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Good stuff Robert! Did you try the bottom position too?

 

No, I have been happy so far with the middle position.

 

The reason why there is not a definitive hole assignment for installations is because there are so many variables in ride height and lowering springs, car weight etc. Eibach Pro Kit may get you to one level and the FRPP is a little bit lower (or higher). I have adjustable coil overs, they have a wide range to lower (or raise), so the only real way to see exactly what each hole does, per a specific install, is to measure the angle at the normal ride height level.

 

Other good information is the geometry of Instant Center and how it affects traction in an automobile rear suspension application. The IC in the rear suspension is where the imaginary line of the LCA's meet/intersect the imaginary line of the UCA. The further forward this is, the worse for traction. Many drag race guys like the LCA/UCA IC line to meet somewhere around the firewall or drivers seat for optimal traction geometry. If a Mustang has been lowered and relocation brackets have not been installed, the LCA's are lower in the front than they are in the rear. If you take that straight line and intersect it with the UCA straight line of that same car, the IC is somewhere wayyyyy out in front of the car..............<<That is GREAT for spinning tires, but sucks for traction.

 

_______________________________________

 

Most straight forward explanation of IC...........Where the 'Instant Center' is located in the car compared to the 'Center of Gravity' of the car is what determines how the suspension acts on the car to launch it.

 

_______________________________________

 

 

^^^^Even in a street application, there is an interest in getting a car to launch right.......Not that anyone would drag race on the street and need their car to launch right, but it is nice to know how a car responds "if" a person has to get on the gas quickly while also getting off of the clutch quickly from a stand still start. ; )

 

 

 

 

R

Edited by Robert M

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My instant center must be so far forward, that it touches the car in front of me! With only 540rwhp, I am spinning 3rd gear sometimes. Car is lowered with Eibachs, but I have NO desire to add anymore power to the car. My father wants me to go TVS, but with just a pulley and tune, I'm over-powering the rear tires to the point of it being dangerous, and no fun to drive. I have NO traction on my 20" Nitto Invos. So, instead of building more power, I am determined to get the car to hook up first. It would be pointless to make more power, when the car can't handle what it has now.

 

Hopefully these BMR LCA RELOS will work. I already have the panhard bar, and Bobs LCAs. The LCAs really helped firm up the rear.

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My instant center must be so far forward, that it touches the car in front of me! With only 540rwhp, I am spinning 3rd gear sometimes. Car is lowered with Eibachs, but I have NO desire to add anymore power to the car. My father wants me to go TVS, but with just a pulley and tune, I'm over-powering the rear tires to the point of it being dangerous, and no fun to drive. I have NO traction on my 20" Nitto Invos. So, instead of building more power, I am determined to get the car to hook up first. It would be pointless to make more power, when the car can't handle what it has now.

 

Hopefully these BMR LCA RELOS will work. I already have the panhard bar, and Bobs LCAs. The LCAs really helped firm up the rear.

 

As we all know, tires also play a big part with the traction equation, but "also" getting the suspension to work together with the car and the tires is a factor.

 

 

 

R

Edited by Robert M

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I've heard of some guys bending and breaking these so I went with beefier brackets made by Carriage House Engineering. Definitely a stout part. See my sig.

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I've heard of some guys bending and breaking these so I went with beefier brackets made by Carriage House Engineering. Definitely a stout part. See my sig.

BMR redesigned their brackets a few years ago. No failures with the new design.

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