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jdt1970

Modification Plan 2012 GT500 SVTPP

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I am trying to put together a modification plan for my stock GT500 SVTPP. Can someone point me in the right direction? I am hoping there is already a step by step outline somewhere on the forum or elsewhere on the web. I am trying to maximize horsepower while still keeping this car as a daily driver. I have read a lot of what is out there already and I can see most people are doing a new supercharger, along with the supporting intake components. I also see packages available that include these components but I am hesitant to spend the money without hearing from other owners. I guess I am asking: since the car was already built strong what can stay and what should be replaced. Where are the big gains and what is the point of diminishing return on the horsepower curve? What are the best parts? I don't want to make mistakes...I want it right from the beginning. I know this is a huge question but if you can show me where to start I would appreciate it greatly.

Take Care,

Edited by jdt1970

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I am thinking of going with VMP Performance since I live 45 miles from their shop and could get them to put it together. I spoke with them yesterday and this is what we are thinking. I would appreciate your input especially on the pulley size. The 2.5 pulley makes about 16psi but they also have a 2.4 and a 2.65. Any thoughts welcome.

 

VMP Gen II TVS 2.3 Supercharger (pulley 2.4, 2.5, 2.65)

VMP Twin Jet 67mm Throttle Body

JLT 123mm Big Air CAI

Ford 56# injectors

90mm idler

Brisk 6R12YS plugs

Custom Tune

VMP Dual Fan Triple Pass HE

Reische 170 deg Thermostat

VMP Fuel Pump Voltage Booster

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I'd start with a dual fan heat exchanger, 170* thermostat, quality lower control arms and better tires. All supporting mods, but without them, your power mods might not do you much good.

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If you live that close to VMP, by all means take advantage of their expertise.

I am running identical power parts on my 08, and I can definitely recommend them.

That blower is a torque monster, and what you have listed there makes up their 800 HP kit, the torque will not be too far behind that.

No hood mods for clearances are required, but if you are running a strut tower brace you may have to tweak/adjust it for the large JLT CAI tube.

An oil separator on the passenger side would be a good upgrade as well.

Other mods that I did and would strongly recommend are BMR billet LCAs with red poly ends, BMR UCA with red poly ends, and Drake Muscle Cars heavy duty UCA bracket.

I am also running a Dynotech 1 pc aluminum driveshaft, as well as a FRPP Cobra Jet driveshaft safety loop.

At some point you might want to consider upgrading the clutch to a McCleod RXT too, if your oem gives up under the power.

So far I am living with a TSB replaced oem clutch that is similar if not the same as yours, and it is holding out well even after 140+ passes at the strip.

 

Corrected typo on UCA bracket

Edited by msb64

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Thanks, I am starting to rethink things now. I was hoping the GT500 svt suspension would handle the upgraded HP. I put your control arm suggestions on my list and will do a little more research. Do you think I could get by with doing the HP upgrades first or will it be too hard to control without the control arms? Thanks again these are the things I really need to hear.

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I did the suspension and driveshaft modifications first, before doing a large power increase, and would advise you to do the same.

They will strengthen the power train and have a noticeable effect, by eliminating wheel hop and firming up the back end.

Moving the heat exchanger to the top of your list would probably be a good idea because of your hot location.

As others have already mentioned, better rear tires will need to be on the list as well, the sooner the better.

Getting to know the car well with these improvements would also be a good idea before stepping up the power.

Ask the guys at VMP on how best to proceed, they do that kind of stuff every day.

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tell me more about the control arms if you don't mind. Which ones do you recommend?

I'm running J&M extreme LCA's and have been happy with the price\performance of the product. I'll probably be moving to a heim joint LCA from Maximum Motorsports since my car see road course duty a few times per year. Road course driving can stress the poly bushing on LCA. But they are great for the street.

 

BMR makes great products and I would recommend them too. I'm running their Upper Control Arm\bracket and panhard bar\brace...yet more suspension mods to keep the rear lined up and stable under aggressive acceleration.

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OK you convinced me! Tomorrow is my day off so I will spend some time talking with VMP about their recommendation on suspension and also do some research into the parts you guys recommended. It might be a little easier on my wallet for now also to do the cooling and the suspension, feel it out, and then do the intake. Thanks for the knowledge. I'll keep posting the plan and if you see anything out of whack please smack me back into reality.

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I am a little confused on the control arms still. Here are my questions?:

- I am pretty happy with the ride height on the SVTPP. Should I get non-adjustable control arms if I don't want to lower the car or should I get adjustable ones so that I have that option later?

- Do you need adjustable control arms if you go to a one piece drive shaft?

- What's the deal with the grease fittings on the BMR product. Is this something that you guys use or is it just a nice feature. Am I going to get a lot of squeaking if I go with control arms that don't have grease fittings? So far BMR is the only manufacturer I see doing that. I drive this car regularly and I don't mind a stiffer ride but suspension noise will bother me.

-VMP recommended the UPR LCA's http://www.vmpperformance.com/UPR-07-14-SHELBY-GT500-PRO-STREET-URETHANE-LOWER-C-p/upr-2002-13-sh.htm

does anyone have feedback on them? In the picture it almost looks like there may be a grease fitting but I cant tell.

-How do the SVTPP rear shocks compare to the Koni yellows?

 

Thanks in advance,

JT

Edited by jdt1970

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The non-adjustable ones are perfectly fine for the street.

If you need some adjustment later on, you can get an adjustable upper control arm (to correct pinion angle on lowered cars).

A 1 pc driveshaft should not require adjustable lowers (zero issues with my Dynotech 1pc aluminum).

As for grease fittings, I prefer them myself and hit them with Prothane Super Grease at the beginning of each season, the car is near oem quiet.

They save you from having to take the joints apart to apply fresh grease later on, therefore a nice maintenance feature.

Those UPR LCAs are decent, good high performance street/strip pieces at a best bang for the buck price.

Chrome Moly tubing is much stronger than mild steel, and also substantially lighter, so pretty much a win-win.

You can tell by the larger picture that they definetly have grease fittings on each end.

Still running the stock shocks on my car, but have been considering a good adjustable set for the rear, to help launches at the strip.

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Thanks MSB,

 

I think I am starting to get a handle on this. I have a set of upper and lower control arms picked out from two manufactures (BMR and UPR). I am going to call each today and see what they say. I placed some of that grease on order. I am undecided on the ends. I want to maintain a somewhat comfortable driver but I can accept some NVH if I know its there because its doing a job. Any recommendations? Poly/Poly, Poly/Rod End, Poly/Spherical???? How bad was the install on your control arms and drive shaft?

 

JT

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If you have some mechanic experience, both are not too bad to install, even without a hoist.

So far I have installed 3 prs of Steeda billet aluminum LCAs, and 2 prs of BMR billet aluminum LCAs.

Depending on your equipment and pace, they can easily be installed in less than 1.5 hours in your garage or driveway.

I went with the billet BMRs because they are good LCAs and look really sharp on the car, same can be said about the Steedas.

If I had to bet though, I would say those UPR chrome moly ones would be stronger.

I went with the BMR LCAs and UCA with the red poly/poly bushings, but the Poly/Spherical ends look interesting too.

I felt that the black bushings on the Steedas are a little on the soft side for a 500+ ftlbs torque car.

I also didn't want to get too rigid either, as I don't track race and didn't want excessive vibration in a mostly street car.

You basically jack up the rear of the car, then support the car at points just in front of the LCA front body mounts with jack stands or blocks, and let the rear end hang a bit.

You can control the height of the rear end with you jack as needed, and when you get it at the right height, it will be easy to move back and forth to get the last bolt in.

MAKE SURE THAT YOU ONLY DO ONE SIDE AT A TIME.

Release the rear brake cables and then you can proceed to unbolt the oem LCA bolts.

When removing or reinstalling, one side has to be released first, I believe that is the rear bolt at the axle.

I reused my oem bolts, cleaned them good with solvent and reassembled them with blue grade thread locker, torqued to 130 ftlbs.

 

Btw, if you decide to install the UCA as well, I strongly recommend that you upgrade the UCA bracket as well, as the oem one is just a thin stamped steel piece.

You should go for something heavier/stronger like a thicker tig welded unit, as the harder poly (or other) bushings will put more of a strain on that bracket.

I have seen them fail at the drag strip with disasterous results, broken shocks, bent housing brackets, damaged tires and wheel wells etc.

Changing the UCA bracket requires a bit more work, removing the back seat to get at one of the bolts, and lowering the gas tank enough to be able to get the UCA bracket in and out.

On my car I also had to get a special torx bit to remove the tank bolts, I got this bit to help with that:

https://www.amazon.com/OTC-TORX-PLUS-Socket-Square/dp/B000O846UI/ref=sr_1_1

I found it easier to bolt/torque the UCA into the bracket, and then installed both as a unit.

 

The driveshaft install is not difficult, as long as you get the car high enough to be able to safely work under there.

Getting a torque wrench on the front bolts can be a challenge, used some extensions and a 12 pt socket, as well as rotate the assembly a bit to get a good line on some of the bolts.

For the back I believe I modified a large allen key (cut with chop saw) for the cap head bolts.

I used blue thread locker on solvent cleaned threads/holes, and torque them to recommended specs as per the driveshaft manufacturers recommendations.

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:thumbsup: Great advice from msb64. Did my own lower and upper control arms. Upper is a PITA and access is very tight, but the lowers are very straight forward with jack stands and hand tools.

 

For a street car, Poly ends will probably be the best. Rod ends will give you more NVH and are geared for road course and drag strip duty.

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Agreed except you don't have to lower the gas tanks to change the UCA. If you remove the UCA bracket bolts, loosen the bolt under the seat and remove the UCA to differential bolt, you can swivel the UCA/bracket assembly for enough space to get the UCA/bracket bolt out to remove the UCA and then reverse for reassembly.

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Secondo, Barspen, MSB64, OCD; thank you for the great tips, info, and feedback. I am going to tackle the install of the UCA, LCA, PH myself. I will try and get some good pictures of the tricky parts for the next guy. The drive shaft will have to wait a while. I asked around and I heard from UPR and VMP that while the two piece shaft is heavy it does ok at the higher HP ranges. I am not convinced though so I haven't removed it from the mod plan but it moved down a few positions. Have you heard this about the drive shaft also?

 

UPR makes two UCA arm mounts :

http://www.uprproducts.com/mustang-upper-control-arm-mount-adjustable-11.html

http://www.uprproducts.com/mustang-upper-control-arm-mount-11.html

The first one has an additional hole which is lower than the stock hole which is supposed to control squat. I will probably get that first one just for the option of having that adjustment but more than likely I will stay in the stock position. Do you guys know what the trade off would be for running that anti-squat position. I am assuming that the rear axle would unload very quickly under heavy braking but that is a guess. I did read something similar with relocating the LCAs in too much of an aggressive angle (that heavy acceleration traction improves dramatically but that under heavy deceleration they tend to transfer that weight just as effectively back up and allow the rear end to break loose). I would assume that there has to be a similar reaction if you move the UCA mounting location. I would be interested to hear if anyone has that figured out. Thanks again for pointing me towards the suspension and cooling prior to jumping into the HP increase. Learning about finessing the suspension has been a lot of fun for me. My old lady thinks I have an online girlfriend though since she finds me in front of the computer all the time looking at "car stuff". HAHAHA.

Thanks Again,

Edited by jdt1970

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Agreed except you don't have to lower the gas tanks to change the UCA...

 

Depends on the year...I had to drop mine in my '11. Easy stuff as long as you only have a few gallons of fuel in the tank and support the weight with a couple jack stands. The tank just swings out of the way so you have a little more access to the top bolt.

 

There are some BMR 20% off deals out there right now...

+1 on the BMR products. The spherical end UCA and mount was a great combo. Made a huge difference in the the back end feeling more planted in straight acceleration and twisties. Highly recommended.

 

P.S. I have a write up on the BMR UCA install and install and troubleshooting on a different forum, but I think the TS rules 'state' I cant post links to other GT500/Mustang forums :shrug: PM me if you are interested.

Edited by barspen

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Side Bar: I just tried to touch up a chip on my hood with that stupid f#####g touch up paint from the auto parts store. It looks hideous! Any suggestions before I go completely OCD and make it even worse?

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Get some touch up paint from the dealership... You will need your vin number...

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Side Bar Solution: What a pain! Color match of the paint was ok I just made the mistake of using the applicator that came with it. I wanted to put about a millimeter of paint on using the push tip and about a cm came out. I fixed it with wet sand paper crazy glued to a pencil eraser. Grit:1,500-2,000-2,500 then rubbing compound and then wax. Weekend hijacked by stupidity. Well, at least now I can get back to figuring out the rest of the car.

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The motors are pretty stout already. I am far from being an expert, but in my humble opinion I would go with handling and braking first; engine and SC cooling next; then clutch, one piece drive shaft and MGW Gen II Shifter, then GT-500KR tune and CAI; then you can move on to the engine. On my 07 GT-500, I did things slow and deliberate worked the bugs out on mods then moved on to the next thing.

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Thanks Zeroed,

That's pretty much what I have come around to. At first I was thinking I could knock out a lot at once but I now see the value in working one piece of the puzzle at a time. I should be ordering my suspension parts this week. I am just waiting to hopefully hear something from BJ over at VMP on how much NVH he thinks I will get with the parts I picked out. I plan on posting pictures of the install if you are interested. I may bug you later for some advice on the brakes. Thanks again!

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Are you guys replacing the bushing in the DIFFERENTIAL HOUSING when you replace the UCA and bracket or just leaving that one alone. The Ford shop manual shows a special tool to press it out. I was ready to place my parts order when I saw that in the shop manual now I cant decide if I need to order a bushing for the diff also. If I do I guess I need to decide on poly or spherical. Any recommendations?

http://www.uprproducts.com/mustang-8-inch-bushings-05.html

or

http://www.bmrsuspension.com/?page=products&productid=178&superpro=0

or

leave the original and call the poly / oem rubber bushing a improvement

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I left in the factory differential bushing. Less clunking sounds from the suspension when changing the control arm bushings. And it's a pain to remove.

 

Edit: I know one guy who changed his and regretted it after.

Edited by Secondo

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I have been searching the forum and everyone agrees it's a pain in the ass and I have not read of anyone saying they were super glad they did it. The best I heard was that it was slightly better than stock (that was with a poly bushing). The ones I read who used the spherical bushing regretted it. I think I will leave the factory bushing and see how it rides. I can always do the differential bushing down the road.

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You won't need to change it if you're changing all the control arm ones.

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Any thoughts on the panhard bar and brace. I was just going to replace it while I was doing the UCA and LCAs. What are the best ends to get on a panhard? Does the panhard transfer a lot of NVH? Would I be safe to go with rod ends on it to keep the articulation or would that be too noisy? I decided to go with poly/rod ends for the LCAs and poly/stock rubber on the UCA. The other consideration is to leave the panhard stock and consider a watts link. Any recommendations?

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Will you be doing anything more than daily driving this car?

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