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blk12svt

changing panhard bar...difficult or easy?

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Was wondering if there is any difficulty in changing out the stock panhard bar on a 14 GT500 to an aftermarket adjustable unit? I have a lift so access will be easy but didn't know if I would have to take it to an alignment shop for the job or something I can unbolt myself and slap a new one on or does it need alignment work after the change out? I was under the impression that all the thing does is allow for precise centering of the car body over the rear end?

Edited by blk12svt

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I installed one with the KR suspension, it was not difficult at all. Was able to eyeball the adjustments and later had everything verified with a 4 wheel alignment. Tech told me it was perfect and no adjustment needed

Edited by Rarecat

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If its the same as my 2008 GT500, it's a no brainer.

 

Unbolt the old, rebolt the new. Make sure the car is sitting on its wheels and the suspension is bearing the weight of the car (don't have the car supported by its frame and the suspension hanging down), then torque everything to the correct specs. The only adjustment you will have is the length of the bar, which will have to be adjusted once installed, to center the rear axle under the body. Look at the distance from the rear fender lips to the edge of the tire to make sure its centered. Alignment should not be affected by swapping the bar.

 

Z-man

Edited by Z-man

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You're centering should be fine if the car hasn't been lowered.

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Thanks to all for your responses. My car is 100% bone stock. I don't have the car lowered nor do I think my rear is out of center but with all the recent talk about this "Michelin Death Wobble" phenomenon it has me worried and as I understand the adjustable panhard bar could help cure the problem. I've been slip sliding around on the OEM Goodyears for three years and finally bought some 11 x 20 wheels so I could mount the 295 Michelins and now I hear my traction problem is only going to be worse...and the worst part is it occurs at 80 mph....

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Not seeing how an adjustable panhard will solve your tire issues, especially on a bone stock car, but I guess it can't hurt. I did see that someone on the "Death Wobble" thread had mentioned that beefier lower control arms may help.

 

FYI - If your car is stock, and not lowered, pre-set the length of the adjustable panhard bar to the same length as the stock one that you are removing....then you won't need to make any further adjustments or measurements once you get it mounted on the car.

Edited by Z-man

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Not seeing how an adjustable panhard will solve your tire issues, especially on a bone stock car, but I guess it can't hurt. I did see that someone on the "Death Wobble" threat had mentioned that beefier lower control arms may help.

 

FYI - If your car is stock, and not lowered, pre-set the length of the adjustable panhard bar to the same length as the stock one that you are removing....then you won't need to make any further adjustments or measurements once you get it mounted on the car.

 

Thanks for the input. Come Springtime I'll be getting the tires and wheels changed and will report back with the results. I thought the panhard swap would be easy and just figured I would eliminate one possibility.

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My car is 100% bone stock. I don't have the car lowered nor do I think my rear is out of center ....

In this case an adjustable panhard is a waste of money. You won't notice any difference.

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If your going with an 11" wide wheel you may need the adjustable phb to be certain that your rear axle is perfectly centered even though your currently not lowered.

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Thanks guys for the advice. I hope to get started tomorrow with getting the Michelins mounted but still not fit to drive yet around here. Best I can tell there might be a little less than 1/4" difference from left side to right side clearance. I've tried holding a string and plumb bob on the fender to see how far back the OEM Goodyears sit but hard to get a perfect measurement. Who makes the best panhard bar?

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Thanks guys for the advice. I hope to get started tomorrow with getting the Michelins mounted but still not fit to drive yet around here. Best I can tell there might be a little less than 1/4" difference from left side to right side clearance. I've tried holding a string and plumb bob on the fender to see how far back the OEM Goodyears sit but hard to get a perfect measurement. Who makes the best panhard bar?

 

BMR Suspension

 

here is a link to their 2014 GT500 adjustable poly ends

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An adjustable PHB is ONLY for the centering of the rear axle on cars with rear suspension geometry that is NOT factory. This is NOT going to affect your suspension at all, unless it's been lowered. You will NOT see a difference in the supposed death wobble with the addition (or replacement) of the stock PHB.

 

Don't waste your dough.

 

However, in answer to your question on the thread....it's an easy replacement. Minutes with the correct tools. And as was mentioned above, the suspension needs to be "loaded" to get an accurate side to side measurement.

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BIKEBOY, Thanks for the input. I will try the Michelins first and see what happens. I learned a long time ago, adjusting coal processing plants to meet coal quality parameters, to never make two adjustments at once. You don't know which adjustment helped or hurt. The wider wheels and tires should make it easier to check that the rear is centered under the car too. Thanks

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