Jump to content
  • Announcements

    • Staff

      ABOUT TEAM SHELBY   01/01/2007

          Member Benefits:   First, there's the Team Shelby swag. No other club packs your membership kit with more than Team Shelby! Whether you are a renewing member or new to the “family” of Shelby enthusiast worldwide, our goal is to help you enjoy a high-octane lifestyle!   From a Unique Membership Card, Shelby Annual Magazine, Team Shelby Hat, Collector Coin, Team Shelby T-Shirt, Windshield Cling, Team Shelby License Plate Frame, Lapel Pin and Magnet, the contents of your Team Shelby Membership Kit more than pay for your membership alone!   In addition, your membership includes:   Exclusive Access to Team Shelby Member Forums.   10% discounts at Carroll Shelby's Stores in Las Vegas and Los Angeles.   Driving Experiences.   Invitations to Exclusive Team Shelby Member Events.   Insider information from Shelby American.   Affiliate Partner Discounts.   Updated February 16, 2017. Team Shelby Club 2018 Team Shelby Membership Kit Please note that membership contents are subject to change.   Team Shelby was designed and engineered by real enthusiasts inside and out of Shelby.   Team Shelby was originally formed in 2008 by Carroll Shelby. He wanted to create a club for people to truly enjoy their cars. He knew the world had changed, and he wanted his companies to meet the needs of the new generation of Shelby owners. His vision was to knit together those people with the owners of early Shelby's and give everyone fun new ways to experience their high performance vehicles.   Mr. Shelby imagined a place where owners could talk about their latest conquests at the track, swap stories, share photos and learn new ways to hot rod their cars! He wanted to link all of the enthusiasts into one "dream garage"... thus, Team Shelby was born!   Team Shelby has many free, open access forums, news sections and member only areas dedicated to the community.   In addition, Team Shelby has a full series of events for 2018, which include VIP Experiences, track days, National & Regional gatherings, cruises, car shows and more! Ownership of a Shelby is not required to be a member. The club is dedicated to serving all Shelby enthusiasts past and present including those that own cars built in the 1960's and Shelby Dodges too! Carroll Shelby (Team Shelby Member #001) said: "We built Team Shelby for anyone who is passionate about Shelby cars! We’ll have a blast and we'll do it the Shelby way!   Yearly Membership Rates   U.S. $49.99 | Canada & Mexico $59.99 | E.U., others $65.99   Join the Team Shelby Club   click here to choose a Team Shelby Club subscription package.   Membership Kit Arrival   Your Team Shelby Club membership kit and I.D.card will generally arrive within 6-8 weeks.   Need Help?   Email Brianna:  e-mail her here.
    • ForumAdmin

      Having Problems Logging In To Team Shelby ?   02/12/2018

      If you are having a problem logging in to Team Shelby since the software change made last December/January please send an email to bfawn@shelby.com  Please include your real name and Team Shelby user id in this email so that we may look into what the problem might be. Thank you.
CSSHELBYKID

Shelby Watts-Link suspension on Shelby Gt

Recommended Posts

The Fays is popular here for being a Shelby offering and is clearly well received by those that have it, but I’m curious if their are any opinions on other brands? Cortex, Griggs, Whiteline, etc. I know there is some difference between the way each locates the axle and how much can be adjusted.

 

The Fays has has always seamed like an ‘odd-ball’ setup with how it clamps to the axle.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I ran the Faye's system and liked it but it was a little noisey. Currently running the BMR system and love it, much easier to setup than the Faye's and no noise.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

The Watts link would have to be installed incorrectly for that bolt to come into contact with the diff cover, and you would see marks on the cover if that were the case. I've got about 1" of clearance between the bolt and my diff cover.

The KR diff cover has some cooling fins and is a bit thicker than the normal GT500. Next time I get it on the lift, Ill take a pix.

But after the initial install, there was only 1/4 clearance, if that much. No real variances in the install process as its a bolt-in deal. I do have the Shelby adjustable upper control arm and tweaked it a bit to pull the top part of the pumpkin forward without dramatically changing the pinion angle. Now have a bit more clearance.

The Watts bracket/propeller mechanism prevents a good look to see if there has been contact. But if you hit a significant bump, the axle could move rearward just enough to have the bolt hit the diff cover. Ill do some more looking on a lift.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

The KR diff cover has some cooling fins and is a bit thicker than the normal GT500. Next time I get it on the lift, Ill take a pix.

But after the initial install, there was only 1/4 clearance, if that much. No real variances in the install process as its a bolt-in deal. I do have the Shelby adjustable upper control arm and tweaked it a bit to pull the top part of the pumpkin forward without dramatically changing the pinion angle. Now have a bit more clearance.

The Watts bracket/propeller mechanism prevents a good look to see if there has been contact. But if you hit a significant bump, the axle could move rearward just enough to have the bolt hit the diff cover. Ill do some more looking on a lift.

If you are having clearance issues, you may want to change to the Ford Racing low profile diff cover. That's what I'm running now. The tell tale sign will be if your diff cover is marked up. If not, then you probably don't have an issue with clearance. Hope not!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
....

 

He still ROCKS all the years later for what he did for us at SAI.

 

Andy.

 

This!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

One of the best mods I ever did to both my 07 SGT and my 08 GT500. The improvement was a bit more pronounced on the GT500, just cause it's so much more front heavy and being more off balance has more room for improvement, but it's still well worth it on an SGT. Like others have said, the car is just so much more stable and planted. I have no hesitation anymore applying power to push the car through a tight corner as I have no worry of the rear suddenly wanting to break loose on me.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

The thunk could be from bottoming out on the bump-stops. That can happen with aggressive cornering or overweight. Potentially very dangerous. The rear wheels can come right off the ground!

There were folks in the past that took a hacksaw to them. I'm sure the thread is searchable...

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

The Fays is popular here for being a Shelby offering and is clearly well received by those that have it, but Im curious if their are any opinions on other brands? Cortex, Griggs, Whiteline, etc. I know there is some difference between the way each locates the axle and how much can be adjusted.

 

The Fays has has always seamed like an odd-ball setup with how it clamps to the axle.

I have the Whiteline. It was installed with the Ford Racing handling pack and LCA relocation brackets. What a beautiful set up. It was an instant improvement. Night and day. Feels like a go kart around corners. JDM Engineering recommended it over the Fays. And yes I have clunk occasionally.

 

Also had to remove my brand new FR adjustable panhard bar if anyone is looking for one.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I have the Whiteline..... And yes I have clunk occasionally.

 

 

I talked with Jim Fay about the clunk recently. He stated he is not aware of any reason why a watts link would create a clunk sound and stated if anyone had a problem that was a failure with his watts link to contact him immediately so he can help resolve. I'm wondering if the clunk is coming from the upper control arm? Mine becomes more prevalent on colder days below 60 degrees when I throw the car hard into a corner. Rarely happens over bumps in a straight line (if ever). I'd love to figure this out and make it go away.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I talked with Jim Fay about the clunk recently. He stated he is not aware of any reason why a watts link would create a clunk sound and stated if anyone had a problem that was a failure with his watts link to contact him immediately so he can help resolve. I'm wondering if the clunk is coming from the upper control arm? Mine becomes more prevalent on colder days below 60 degrees when I throw the car hard into a corner. Rarely happens over bumps in a straight line (if ever). I'd love to figure this out and make it go away.

 

My clunk never happens during driving. It happens when I'm coming to a stop. It sorta "Clunkbles." I know it's not a word, but mix of clunk and rumbles. Jim D'Amore of JDM said it is nothing to worry about. I trust him. He's done fantastic work on both my pony's.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

My clunk never happens during driving. It happens when I'm coming to a stop. It sorta "Clunkbles." I know it's not a word, but mix of clunk and rumbles. Jim D'Amore of JDM said it is nothing to worry about. I trust him. He's done fantastic work on both my pony's.

Every time I’ve heard a ‘clunk’ from the rear of any vehicule it was always a drive shaft slip yoke that need to be cleaned and greased.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Every time I’ve heard a ‘clunk’ from the rear of any vehicule it was always a drive shaft slip yoke that need to be cleaned and greased.

Mine has a brand new driveshaft as the previous carbon shaft from PST failed on track back in the summer. Clunk was there before and after the new shaft install.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

ok i didnt realize this thread had gone on.     the "thunk" i get is straight line. with an elevation change. like if a new section of road is paved and you go over that "lip" onto new pavment. if it is a hard sudden change like that. it thunks.  kinda sounds like it might be more to the left side but, it absolutely started the day of the watts link install. cornering seems great. and straight line accel is fine. hard braking is fine. only an elevation change at speed causes it.

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
15 minutes ago, SGT3477 said:

ok i didnt realize this thread had gone on.     the "thunk" i get is straight line. with an elevation change. like if a new section of road is paved and you go over that "lip" onto new pavment. if it is a hard sudden change like that. it thunks.  kinda sounds like it might be more to the left side but, it absolutely started the day of the watts link install. cornering seems great. and straight line accel is fine. hard braking is fine. only an elevation change at speed causes it.

That’s what mine did too.  When I went over a big pavement change under hard acceleration, I got a clunk.  If I backed off just before the bump, I didn’t get a clunk.

Otherwise, was smooth and worked great.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

That’s what mine did too.  When I went over a big pavement change under hard acceleration, I got a clunk.  If I backed off just before the bump, I didn’t get a clunk.

Otherwise, was smooth and worked great.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
12 hours ago, SGT3477 said:

ok i didnt realize this thread had gone on.     the "thunk" i get is straight line. with an elevation change. like if a new section of road is paved and you go over that "lip" onto new pavment. if it is a hard sudden change like that. it thunks.  kinda sounds like it might be more to the left side but, it absolutely started the day of the watts link install. cornering seems great. and straight line accel is fine. hard braking is fine. only an elevation change at speed causes it.

 

Mine happens more when I'm cornering hard.... Sometimes over a bump in the road.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

i kind of think it is the impeller spring flexing but, i did not expect it to make noise.

 

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Finally got my car up on the rack and I think we found the problem of the clunking noise in the rear end.  Fortunately, it has nothing to do with the Watts Link.  The upper control arm is tired along with the differential bushing.  Makes sense as that is the only thing I have not replaced and the rubber is cracked.  New parts on order and I'll post up with the results after a spirited drive once the new UCA is installed.  

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks Viper for the update on the Watts Link.  I originally was considering one for my 08 Shelby GT, but after  hereing different stories about a clunking noise in the rear end I dropped that idea. I'll look forward to your update on this issue in the near future!!!! :thumbsup:

Later!

"MONGOOSE"       :peelout:

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

OK...…… New UCA installed and diff bushing.  Clunk still present, but now I really have to crank the steering wheel hard left to right to get it to happen whereas before it was much easier to replicate the noise.  I guess I'm going to have to call Mr. Fay again and figure this out.  

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Update:  I had a chance to get under the car today.  I found the driver side arm of the watts link has been making contact with my exhaust and the passenger side bolts for the watts link arm have been making contact with the underside of the body.  Talked with Jim Fay and he believes the arms have moved since install and simply need to be adjusted.  I agree with that assessment and will get the car on the lift in the next day or so to set the arm angles and the proper angle and distance from the diff.  This should solve the issue although Jim did say he had heard the original shocks could be allowing the car to sag more than normal and if that is the case it is time to do the last suspension mod:  Coil-overs!

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I need to pay more attention to my Gurney next time I’m out in it. You guys have me wondering now. I wish I knew exactly what the word “clunk” means to you all. 

In my opinion, that’s a relative term based on the fact that these cars with their performance suspensions, aren’t exactly “Lexus like” driving down the road. 

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
7 hours ago, BIKEBOY said:

I need to pay more attention to my Gurney next time I’m out in it. You guys have me wondering now. I wish I knew exactly what the word “clunk” means to you all. 

In my opinion, that’s a relative term based on the fact that these cars with their performance suspensions, aren’t exactly “Lexus like” driving down the road. 

You'll know BB.  This is not a normal high performance suspension sound.  It sounds like something is hitting metal on metal under the car.  Like tapping the underbody of your car with a hammer kind of clunk.  It took me a while to find out where it was making contact as I was looking in the wrong places.  At the end of the day, it is a clearance issue if/when the watts link is either installed improperly or it shifted over time.  I think my issue might be a little of both.  The guy that installed mine may not have really known what he was doing.  I quit using him soon thereafter and now I have access to a lift.

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
3 hours ago, ViperNC said:

You'll know BB.  This is not a normal high performance suspension sound.  It sounds like something is hitting metal on metal under the car.  Like tapping the underbody of your car with a hammer kind of clunk.  It took me a while to find out where it was making contact as I was looking in the wrong places.  At the end of the day, it is a clearance issue if/when the watts link is either installed improperly or it shifted over time.  I think my issue might be a little of both.  The guy that installed mine may not have really known what he was doing.  I quit using him soon thereafter and now I have access to a lift.

Thanks for the clarification Blake. Then I think my car is OK. I don’t have any really loud clunks. It’s the normal two piece driveshaft S197 chatter under there I think. 

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Made the adjustments today.  No more clunk when putting lateral load on the rear suspension!   But..... the other clunk when I brake hard and then accelerate hard is still there.  Guess I'll have to take it back to my guy and see if he can figure it out.  I'm out of ideas.....

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Viper, thanks for the continuing updates on the Watts Link!  Very informative info, I will continue to read your further updates. :)

Later!

"MONGOOSE"     :peelout:

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I've had one more thought about the new noise.... it started happening after I installed the UCA from a '13/14 GT500.  Kelly at BMR suggested this would be a good upgrade without going with a fully adjustable UCA and increasing NVH.  He said it creates a better pinion angle, but now I'm beginning to wonder if the pinion angle is the problem and causing my carbon driveshaft to clunk under hard loads?  I'll be making the call to BMR tomorrow to discuss.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Don’t know if you have access to a lift, but you can check pinion angle real easy with an iPhone.  Just measure the angle at the back of the transmission and at the pinion snout.  I think mine were the same at about 3 degrees.

Suspension must be loaded and the car reasonably level.  Having an adjustable UCA is a must to make this work, especially if you have replaced the UCA mount on the chassis:  I noticed the UCA mounting holes on the heavy duty mount were different from stock.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


×