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Shelby Watts-Link suspension on Shelby Gt

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The Fays is popular here for being a Shelby offering and is clearly well received by those that have it, but I’m curious if their are any opinions on other brands? Cortex, Griggs, Whiteline, etc. I know there is some difference between the way each locates the axle and how much can be adjusted.

 

The Fays has has always seamed like an ‘odd-ball’ setup with how it clamps to the axle.

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I ran the Faye's system and liked it but it was a little noisey. Currently running the BMR system and love it, much easier to setup than the Faye's and no noise.

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The Watts link would have to be installed incorrectly for that bolt to come into contact with the diff cover, and you would see marks on the cover if that were the case. I've got about 1" of clearance between the bolt and my diff cover.

The KR diff cover has some cooling fins and is a bit thicker than the normal GT500. Next time I get it on the lift, Ill take a pix.

But after the initial install, there was only 1/4 clearance, if that much. No real variances in the install process as its a bolt-in deal. I do have the Shelby adjustable upper control arm and tweaked it a bit to pull the top part of the pumpkin forward without dramatically changing the pinion angle. Now have a bit more clearance.

The Watts bracket/propeller mechanism prevents a good look to see if there has been contact. But if you hit a significant bump, the axle could move rearward just enough to have the bolt hit the diff cover. Ill do some more looking on a lift.

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The KR diff cover has some cooling fins and is a bit thicker than the normal GT500. Next time I get it on the lift, Ill take a pix.

But after the initial install, there was only 1/4 clearance, if that much. No real variances in the install process as its a bolt-in deal. I do have the Shelby adjustable upper control arm and tweaked it a bit to pull the top part of the pumpkin forward without dramatically changing the pinion angle. Now have a bit more clearance.

The Watts bracket/propeller mechanism prevents a good look to see if there has been contact. But if you hit a significant bump, the axle could move rearward just enough to have the bolt hit the diff cover. Ill do some more looking on a lift.

If you are having clearance issues, you may want to change to the Ford Racing low profile diff cover. That's what I'm running now. The tell tale sign will be if your diff cover is marked up. If not, then you probably don't have an issue with clearance. Hope not!

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....

 

He still ROCKS all the years later for what he did for us at SAI.

 

Andy.

 

This!

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One of the best mods I ever did to both my 07 SGT and my 08 GT500. The improvement was a bit more pronounced on the GT500, just cause it's so much more front heavy and being more off balance has more room for improvement, but it's still well worth it on an SGT. Like others have said, the car is just so much more stable and planted. I have no hesitation anymore applying power to push the car through a tight corner as I have no worry of the rear suddenly wanting to break loose on me.

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The thunk could be from bottoming out on the bump-stops. That can happen with aggressive cornering or overweight. Potentially very dangerous. The rear wheels can come right off the ground!

There were folks in the past that took a hacksaw to them. I'm sure the thread is searchable...

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The Fays is popular here for being a Shelby offering and is clearly well received by those that have it, but Im curious if their are any opinions on other brands? Cortex, Griggs, Whiteline, etc. I know there is some difference between the way each locates the axle and how much can be adjusted.

 

The Fays has has always seamed like an odd-ball setup with how it clamps to the axle.

I have the Whiteline. It was installed with the Ford Racing handling pack and LCA relocation brackets. What a beautiful set up. It was an instant improvement. Night and day. Feels like a go kart around corners. JDM Engineering recommended it over the Fays. And yes I have clunk occasionally.

 

Also had to remove my brand new FR adjustable panhard bar if anyone is looking for one.

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I have the Whiteline..... And yes I have clunk occasionally.

 

 

I talked with Jim Fay about the clunk recently. He stated he is not aware of any reason why a watts link would create a clunk sound and stated if anyone had a problem that was a failure with his watts link to contact him immediately so he can help resolve. I'm wondering if the clunk is coming from the upper control arm? Mine becomes more prevalent on colder days below 60 degrees when I throw the car hard into a corner. Rarely happens over bumps in a straight line (if ever). I'd love to figure this out and make it go away.

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I talked with Jim Fay about the clunk recently. He stated he is not aware of any reason why a watts link would create a clunk sound and stated if anyone had a problem that was a failure with his watts link to contact him immediately so he can help resolve. I'm wondering if the clunk is coming from the upper control arm? Mine becomes more prevalent on colder days below 60 degrees when I throw the car hard into a corner. Rarely happens over bumps in a straight line (if ever). I'd love to figure this out and make it go away.

 

My clunk never happens during driving. It happens when I'm coming to a stop. It sorta "Clunkbles." I know it's not a word, but mix of clunk and rumbles. Jim D'Amore of JDM said it is nothing to worry about. I trust him. He's done fantastic work on both my pony's.

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My clunk never happens during driving. It happens when I'm coming to a stop. It sorta "Clunkbles." I know it's not a word, but mix of clunk and rumbles. Jim D'Amore of JDM said it is nothing to worry about. I trust him. He's done fantastic work on both my pony's.

Every time I’ve heard a ‘clunk’ from the rear of any vehicule it was always a drive shaft slip yoke that need to be cleaned and greased.

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Every time I’ve heard a ‘clunk’ from the rear of any vehicule it was always a drive shaft slip yoke that need to be cleaned and greased.

Mine has a brand new driveshaft as the previous carbon shaft from PST failed on track back in the summer. Clunk was there before and after the new shaft install.

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ok i didnt realize this thread had gone on.     the "thunk" i get is straight line. with an elevation change. like if a new section of road is paved and you go over that "lip" onto new pavment. if it is a hard sudden change like that. it thunks.  kinda sounds like it might be more to the left side but, it absolutely started the day of the watts link install. cornering seems great. and straight line accel is fine. hard braking is fine. only an elevation change at speed causes it.

 

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15 minutes ago, SGT3477 said:

ok i didnt realize this thread had gone on.     the "thunk" i get is straight line. with an elevation change. like if a new section of road is paved and you go over that "lip" onto new pavment. if it is a hard sudden change like that. it thunks.  kinda sounds like it might be more to the left side but, it absolutely started the day of the watts link install. cornering seems great. and straight line accel is fine. hard braking is fine. only an elevation change at speed causes it.

That’s what mine did too.  When I went over a big pavement change under hard acceleration, I got a clunk.  If I backed off just before the bump, I didn’t get a clunk.

Otherwise, was smooth and worked great.

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That’s what mine did too.  When I went over a big pavement change under hard acceleration, I got a clunk.  If I backed off just before the bump, I didn’t get a clunk.

Otherwise, was smooth and worked great.

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12 hours ago, SGT3477 said:

ok i didnt realize this thread had gone on.     the "thunk" i get is straight line. with an elevation change. like if a new section of road is paved and you go over that "lip" onto new pavment. if it is a hard sudden change like that. it thunks.  kinda sounds like it might be more to the left side but, it absolutely started the day of the watts link install. cornering seems great. and straight line accel is fine. hard braking is fine. only an elevation change at speed causes it.

 

Mine happens more when I'm cornering hard.... Sometimes over a bump in the road.

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i kind of think it is the impeller spring flexing but, i did not expect it to make noise.

 

 

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