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Shelby Watts-Link suspension on Shelby Gt

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13 minutes ago, duns said:

Which watts link is a better choice, the shelby that are held by the axle tubes or the axle cover version. I am looking at the shelby manufactured ones.

Pros an cons?

Since I have a KR with the KR axle cover, I went with the Shelby version that clamps onto the axle as I didn’t want to remove the cover.

I would think they are about the same strength-wise....  But I’m not an expert on that aspect.  

The version that replaces the cover looks like a slightly easier installation?

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I use the Shelby version of the Fays2 which clamps onto the axles on both my GT500 and Shelby GT.  Both have been maintenance free, and the GT500 is a track car (road course) which gets beaten on hard and I haven't broken anything, so the unit is pretty stout and doesn't seem to impact the axles at all.  The Fays2 was designed for competition racing in IMSA so you know it can handle the abuse.

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34 minutes ago, The Chairman said:

Since I have a KR with the KR axle cover, I went with the Shelby version that clamps onto the axle as I didn’t want to remove the cover.

I would think they are about the same strength-wise....  But I’m not an expert on that aspect.  

The version that replaces the cover looks like a slightly easier installation?

 

25 minutes ago, revan said:

I use the Shelby version of the Fays2 which clamps onto the axles on both my GT500 and Shelby GT.  Both have been maintenance free, and the GT500 is a track car (road course) which gets beaten on hard and I haven't broken anything, so the unit is pretty stout and doesn't seem to impact the axles at all.  The Fays2 was designed for competition racing in IMSA so you know it can handle the abuse.

Thank you for the reply.... Shelby it is than. 

So they have 2 versions, expensive and less expensive with 2 pounds difference. I think I just answered my own question....

So when install is complete then the adjustments come into play. How was that to do? Can it be done withe the car raised on the lift or does the car need to be on a ramp lift with all weight...

Thanks 👍

Edited by duns

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One is a Shelby designed one, the other is a Shelby special version of the Fays2 built by Jim Fay.  The difference between the regular fays2 and the shelby version is it has less adjustment holes (3 vs. the normal 7) to make it shorter as requested by Shelby. 

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8 minutes ago, revan said:

One is a Shelby designed one, the other is a Shelby special version of the Fays2 built by Jim Fay.  The difference between the regular fays2 and the shelby version is it has less adjustment holes (3 vs. the normal 7) to make it shorter as requested by Shelby. 

Ok..... So the shelby version has less adjustment ability than the fays2. 

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The Shelby version of the fays2 is not as adjustable as the regular fays2 you can buy directly from Jim Fay.  I'm not sure of the adjustability of the other Shelby watts link since I've never used it.

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3 minutes ago, revan said:

The Shelby version of the fays2 is not as adjustable as the regular fays2 you can buy directly from Jim Fay.  I'm not sure of the adjustability of the other Shelby watts link since I've never used it.

 

3 minutes ago, revan said:

The Shelby version of the fays2 is not as adjustable as the regular fays2 you can buy directly from Jim Fay.  I'm not sure of the adjustability of the other Shelby watts link since I've never used it.

Yeah, Shelby has 2 versions on their site. Regular steel version and a  6061 T6 billet aluminum version that looks like to me has more adjustments and very pricey. 

All i know is I must install this add on since everyone here recommends one and raves about the diffrents they make in ride and handling. I think it may be worth the upgrade. 

Which one would you go with?

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Since I don't have any experience with the other one, I can only speak to the fays2 one, but I can say if you choose that one you shouldn't be disappointed.  It's up to track duty, so anything you do on the road it will handle no sweat

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As to adjustability, once you install it, you probably won’t ever move it.  Having all those additional adjustment points doesn’t mean much.

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Call and talk to Jim Fay he'll answer any questions you have. He's a straight up fella.

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41 minutes ago, The Chairman said:

As to adjustability, once you install it, you probably won’t ever move it.  Having all those additional adjustment points doesn’t mean much.

 

42 minutes ago, The Chairman said:

As to adjustability, once you install it, you probably won’t ever move it.  Having all those additional adjustment points doesn’t mean much.

Thx. I ordered the Shelby Watts Link https://www.shelbystore.com/Watts-Link-RED-p/s197.htm?1=1&CartID=0 

A thank you to all for your advice.

Any install instruction advice other than the installation instructions that come with the parts? Seems to be cut and dry.....

Alignment is my concern getting it dead nuts on the first tiime and not having to do it over.

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As I recall, the installation was pretty straight forward and the instructions were easy to follow.

I remember taping strings to the rear fenders with a large washer on the ends hanging down to the center of each wheel.  That way I could ensure the axle is centered.  If you look at your axle today, you will note that it is offset to one side a bit as the axle moves left & right under varying compression loads.  After install, the axle should be centered as it will no longer shift under varying loads.

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The best way is to center the axle under the frame rails.  There's more variation in the fenders.  

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40 minutes ago, The Chairman said:

As I recall, the installation was pretty straight forward and the instructions were easy to follow.

I remember taping strings to the rear fenders with a large washer on the ends hanging down to the center of each wheel.  That way I could ensure the axle is centered.  If you look at your axle today, you will note that it is offset to one side a bit as the axle moves left & right under varying compression loads.  After install, the axle should be centered as it will no longer shift under varying loads.

 

38 minutes ago, Fat Boss said:

The best way is to center the axle under the frame rails.  There's more variation in the fenders.  

 

35 minutes ago, The Chairman said:

Good point, but might be more challenging....

Hmmmm....🤔  confused.....

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My method centers the axle under the “body”.  Fat Boss’ method centers to the frame rails where the lower control arms connect.  This more accurately aligns the thrust line to the frame.

I would guess my method is 95% accurate (unless there has been body damage in the rear).  While his approach could be more of a challenge to set up.  I’m not sure how to do this beyond eyeballing it.  I’m sure there are some measurements out there to do this.

The “best” approach is to set it up as best you can and then take it to an alignment shop and have them set the thrust angle.  Unless you plan to drag race the car, I don’t think you will notice a difference through.

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